98 Photos - Aug 15, 2010
Photo: Photo: Fork seal replacmentPhoto: Bottom of the forks removed.Photo: C clipPhoto: Old, leaky seal.Photo: Fork innards, including the white PVC spacers that I removed. They were causing the fork to bottom top out on shifts.Photo: The 1981 r65 before I mounted new tires. These tires are Kenda knobbies, with soft sidewalls that did not inspire confidence.  But they looked cool.Photo: Rear view of the nearly bald rear tire, and how it chewed up the rear fender. Also new custom platePhoto: Finally got around to removing this old splice-up job and replaced with a good used, un-molested wiring loom.Photo: Saddlebags and chewed rear fender removed.Photo: Ah, so THAT's why the rear tire was losing air pressure! Shame on me for not noticing it before.Photo: Rear drive splines look GREAT. That isn't rust but very thick, pasty grease.Photo: Rear drive and brake drum. Shoes look good... just wish I could coerce them into stopping better.Photo: Inside of the rear wheel.Photo: New TiresPhoto: My ghetto bead popping device. Worked like a charm!Photo: Rear tire went on without a fuss. Was surprised at how easy it was!  Shinko 712s - 110/90-18Photo: My VERY ghetto tire balancing contraption. Don't think it worked too well, as I had to get the tire re-balanced at a real shop.Photo: My ghetto rear wheel balance setup.Photo: Had to replace the rear light bracket due to a snapped plastic mount.Photo: What wires go where, now?Photo: Cool directions on the "new" used rear fender I scored on Ebay.Photo: Cool directions on the "new" used rear fender I scored on Ebay.  It will be painted (eventually) gloss black and pinstriped like the rest of the bike (and like how my father-in-law had it painted originally).Photo: Photo: Just trying to remember what wire went where.Photo: Front tire halfway mounted. The front was a bit more of a pain due to the lack of leverage with the brake discs in the way.Photo: Mounted and ready to go!Photo: Now sporting new tires, a new rear fender, and a new rear wiring loom.Photo: And she's busted. Haven't torn it apart yet, but am positive it's the transmission input splines - stripped.Photo: "New" used wheel... purchased for only $100! Too bad the tire is old and cracked... it was brand new!Photo: "New" used transmission from an '83 r65. Unknown mileage but it shifts well and has good splines so this will get me by while I save the $$$ to rebuild the original transmission.Photo: MMmmmmm..... good splines.Photo: She's been waiting over a year for some needed attention.Photo: Crankcase Breather Valve hose wasn't connected to the airbox, so it was venting oily air/mist into the starter cavity.  What a mess!Photo: Close up of the starter. You can see the starter cavity breather hole in the lower left/center of the photo and the amount of oil/crud that was leaking out of it.Photo: Airbox filled with a misting of oil. Needs a good cleaning.Photo: Carburetor vacuum hoses, which feed into the airbox through that t-fitting.Photo: Airbox schematic. I noticed a previous owner removed most of the "forced air" emission system.Photo: Ah, and there is the damage!  Stripped input shaft splines on the transmission.Photo: And the corresponding damage to the clutch friction plate. This side stripped more than the transmission side, but both are ruined.Photo: Transmission removed, revealing the clutch and flywheel.Photo: Clutch pushrod in okay shape.Photo: Other end of the clutch pushrod.Photo: Supposedly you don't have to remove the rear wheel to remove the transmission. But the custom saddlebags interfered with the driveshaft pulling far enough away, so I removed everything.Photo: Old transmission and "new" (used 1983 r65 transmission) side by side. Paying $300 for a used transmission in good shape is better than a $900 transmission rebuild!Photo: Better view of the clutch friction plate stripped splines.Photo: Clutch bits. Measuring the pressure plates (left side) revealed them in good shape with no warpage, so they can be reused. The spring (lower right) and the friction plate (upper right) are being replaced with new pieces.Photo: Another view. Oil will be cleaned from the pressure plate faces.Photo: That is a lot of dirty sludge! Marking the flywheel location at TDC.Photo: Flywheel.Photo: And a surprise: The backside of the flywheel teeth are slightly damaged from the starter gear not completely pulling away after the engine has started.Photo: Damage isn't too bad. I will file off the burred edges, and re-grease the starter.Photo: Photo: It shouldn't be that filthy. This is an indication of the rear main seal (dark black circle around the center piece) and/or the oil pump cover seal (square cover below center) leaking. Oil seeps from the engine and gets flung around the cavity by the clutch. Also leaks down under the transmission onto that "shelf" and then onto your clean garage floor.Photo: Inside view of the oil pump cover, with O-ring removed. The wear is normal for this engine, but slightly deeper than comfortable so it is getting replaced.Photo: Nicely cleaned and setting the depth for the new main seal.Photo: Pulling the old seal out.Photo: Someone in the past chewed up the face a bit removing an old seal. I filed it down but I could still obviously feel it. Hope it doesn't cause a problem.Photo: New main seal seated!Photo: Original and new oil pump covers. Notice that the new cover doesn't have the shapes.Photo: Photo: New main seal, oil pump cover, and guide ring O-ring.Photo: Photo: New clutch friction plate and spring.Photo: This carb had a *little* leak, methinks.Photo: To make sure I get the cables back in the correct places.Photo: Cable placement.Photo: Photo: Photo: After sitting for over a year, I was surprised by the nearly complete lack of varnish-y gunk inside the bowl!Photo: Return spring placement.Photo: Carbs sitting in a bath of Pine Sol. It really helps loosen up the crud and isn't toxic like a chemical carb dip. Plus it makes the garage smell nice.Photo: I rubbed some white crayon on the timing marks for better visibility while tuning. The "OT" mark was only partially punched at the factory so only part of the T and the alignment line above it held any paint.Photo: New transmission splines greased with Honda Moly60, and prepared to get mated up with the new clutch.Photo: Old airbox breather vent (right) and new (left).Photo: Mmmm.... new transmission. New oil breather hose, and neutral switch wiring loom.Photo: Starter cover and Airbox reinstalled.Photo: The r65 had a really terrible rear brake... barely even slowed the bike, let alone stop it. I think a previous owner used the wrong spline grease, and it got flung everywhere, soaking into the brake pads, etc.Photo: Final drive with good splines and very dirty, contaminated brake shoes.Photo: After a good cleaning. Degreased the brake shoes and scuffed them up a bit with sandpaper.Photo: After a good cleaning of the brake drum. Also lightly scuffed the drum surface with sandpaper.Photo: Spline lube applied. (Honda Moly 60).Photo: Torquing down the driveshaft bolts to the transmission output.Photo: Not much space in there. The special tool I purchased just for this purpose was WELL worth it!Photo: "New" transmission shifted okay, but I drained the old fluid (was nice and clean) and the drain bolt showed no significant buildup of metal shavings. Only found a couple small slivers.Photo: She's almost ready to roll!  Just have to clean/rebuild the carbs. Though I plan on installing new front brake lines and repainting the valve covers, too.Photo: Curses! A really badly stuck and stripped screw. Eventually got it out through a combination of drilling a small hole and hammering a slotted groove in deep enough to get some bite. I replaced with hex-head screwsPhoto: Nice and clean!Photo: paint on valve covers was obviously in need of freshening-up.Photo: After a very nasty stripping/cleaning/painting process. Before I sanded the horizontal fins.Photo: Old, original rubber brake lines and new stainless steel braided brake lines.Photo: Think this brake fluid needed to be changed? It should be clear.Photo: She is now ready to roll! I just need some gas...Photo: John's r65 at his memorial, November 2009.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: