598 Photos - May 27, 2008
Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Left Canard ViewPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Left Aileron ActuatorPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Pitch Trim.  Since replaced with Electric Actuator.Photo: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV FirewallPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Cockpit with Manual Landing Brake Hardware.  Since Removed and replaced with Electric Actuator.Photo: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV NosewheelPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Pilot Side Control StickPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV NACA InletPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Misc. CoversPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Cowls, Prop, Spinner, MountPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Cowls, Prop, Spinner, MountPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Left WingletPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV CanopyPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Pitch Trim Detail.  Since replaced with Electric Actuator.Photo: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Rear 3/4 ViewPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Rear SeatsPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Landing Gear & Brake Detail.  Cleveland brakes since replaced with Matco, and lines are braided stainless/teflonPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Co-Pilot Side StickPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Left Side ViewPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Landing Brake Actuator.  Since replaced with Electric ActuatorPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Landing Brake.  Now electrically actuated.Photo: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Strake AccessPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV SumpPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Left Winglet InnerPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Left AileronPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Front ViewPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Landing & Taxi Light DetailPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Access Door.  Removed and BID-over.  We've installed a Hendricks Manufacturing Latch.  No more air leaks!Photo: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Open CanopyPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Rudder Pedal & Nose Gear Retract DetailPhoto: N753CZ Cozy MK-IV Landing Gear Center SectionPhoto: Only one plate like that in California!Photo: Michael Antares Honda insight with "Cozy IV" platesPhoto: Michael's Pachamama Project Cart.  This is for Michael's SECOND walk all the way across America, unassisted.Photo: Injected O-360-X Right Side View
O-360-A1LD?Photo: Injected O-360-X Rear ViewPhoto: Injected O-360-X Top Left ViewPhoto: Injected O-360-X Slick MagPhoto: Injected O-360-X Sump & Bendix Injection UnitPhoto: Injected O-360-X B&C StarterPhoto: Injected O-360-X Bendix Injection UnitPhoto: Injected O-360-X Top Right ViewPhoto: Injected O-360-X Front ViewPhoto: Lycoming O-360 L3776-36A.  Never figured out why Lycoming cannot trace this ID number.Photo: Injected O-360-X Mounted on the FirewallPhoto: Injected O-360-X Mounted on the Firewall, Left Side ViewPhoto: Injected O-360-X InstalledPhoto: Injected O-360-X InstalledPhoto: Injected O-360-X Installed Side ViewPhoto: Injected O-360-X Installed Side ViewPhoto: Injected O-360-X Installed Side ViewPhoto: Injected O-360-X Installed Side ViewPhoto: Mount end of O-360.  Corrosion on Gears is evidentPhoto: Sump section of engine case halves is cleanPhoto: Accessory Case looks ok.  Some corrosionPhoto: Dropping the crankshaft into the right half of the engine case to test fit the bearings.Photo: Crankshaft and camshaft test fit into the cases.  Both spin freely.Photo: Parts laid out on a table for easy identification when assembling the engine.Photo: Connecting rod fitted to the crankshaft.  Note the nuts go "upside down" of how you might think they should.  The "washer" looking side goes AWAY from the rod.  Note the engraved markings are matched up, in the right position, and facing DOWN.Photo: Rods fitted into place, crank bearings in place, camshaft in place with tappets in their bores.  lint free cloths to keep rods from damaging themselves or other parts if they swing down.Photo: Aviation Form-a-Gasket painted on thinly to the case half.  Silk thread not yet fitted.  DO NOT put gasket seal on the center portions, and do not put silk thread there either.  Note tappets and camshaft bearing surface coated with moly assembly lube.Photo: Silk thread in place.  Doubled for insurance.Photo: Son of a %$#@! This is the plug that closed up the spot where the front drive governor used to go.  Note it is flush to the surface.  It should be recessed in about 1/2" so that the plug that actually seals this can go it.  The problem is this plug is held in place by a 10-32 set screw on the INSIDE of the case.  I looked at it, the A&P looked at it, we thought everything was fine and closed the case.  Always fun when you get to do it over.Photo: The case assembled for the third time (bearing test, governor plug screw-up, and final time).  From here we snugged up the center bolts and put temporary bolts around the case perimeter.  Then we let the gasket seal set up for a few days.Photo: Stainless Steel Firewall installedPhoto: Intake flanges to adapt RSA-5 Bendix Fuel Injection Servo to K&N RU-2990 air filter.  Designed in SolidWorks, machined on a CNC machine at TechShop.  One for us, one for Tim Andres.Photo: Finished Intake Flanges.  Buna-N #232 o-ring on the face.Photo: Stack-up of propeller extension, spinner backing plate, propeller, crush plate, spinner "front" bulkhead.Photo: Prop bolts with thick washer.  This is prior to installing the Belleville Washer solution.Photo: Exposed threads on propeller bolts before installation of Belleville WashersPhoto: Helium Leak Detector to check fuel tanksPhoto: Plumbing for helium leak detection.  Valve to seal tanks once pressurized, balloon to verify pressure and act as pressure relief.  This turns out to be a BAD idea.  Balloons do not have a linear pressure/diameter curve, and you risk popping your tanks.  Don't do it!Photo: Firgelli Automations 6" linear actuator with sleeve removed.Photo: Firgelli Automations 6" linear actuator end travel limit switch and diode detailPhoto: Firgelli Automations 6" linear actuator limit switch flag detailPhoto: Firgelli Automations 6" linear actuator switch detail.  Switch can be moved to other positions by desoldering and moving to alternate slotsPhoto: 2" urethane foam stacked up to make fairing.  Typical Cozy construction:  Put a lot of stuff on, sand 95% of it off...Photo: Foam for fairing in place.Photo: Peel-ply still in place on co-pilot side armrest.  Center armrest has been cut down after we removed the manual brake.  Wood stick across the seatback was to hold pressure to keep armrest tight against fuselage side while epoxy cured.Photo: Peel-ply in place on pilot side armrest.Photo: We decided not to install the Lycoming, and instead will be using a liquid fueled rocket motor.  We've put the plane into launch attitude.  Or we just stood it on the firewall to make it easier to shape and glass the strake to fuselage fairings.Photo: The bottom with the left lower fairing shaped and glassed.Photo: Prepping the interior for ZolatonePhoto: Canopy prepping for ZolatonePhoto: Carling Technologies V1D2GHNB with VVAAC00 Actuator and VC1-01 ConnectorPhoto: Carling Technologies VVAAC00Photo: Carling Technologies V1D2GHNBPhoto: Painted the switches with Testor's Enamel paint.  I was doing a Fill and Wipe, but the mate surface of the switches retains paint like crazy.  I'm going to have to try sanding/polishing/buffing them clean.Photo: Photo: PS Engineering PMA9000EX, Garmin GNS-430W, Garmin SL-30, Garmin GTX330.  The GNS430W has since been swapped for a GTN650.Photo: Photo: A previous revision of the panel.  Having full-size color prints of each instrument helps in arranging it all.Photo: Final template check before we sent the file to the waterjet shop.Photo: 0.063" 6061-T6 Aluminum Instrument Panel Overlay.  Rough cut on the bandsaw, trimmed to fit with a router with a patterning bit.  Wrinkles are in the protective plastic.Photo: Panel all cut-out and holes routered through composite panel.  The panel cutouts were done with a CNC waterjet cutter.  Then I transferred all of that back through the IP using a patterning bit on the router.  A little filing for the corners and it was done.Photo: Radio Cage.  Bolts to Instrument Panel with Flanges and to F-28 with nut plates.Photo: The two G3X displays mocked into the anodized aluminum panel.  The picture does not accurately represent the color.  It is more of a Spinal Tap "How much more black could it be?  The answer is none.  None more black."Photo: Firecharger fire suppression system installed in the Hell Hole, pilot side.  Need to install lines through firewall for nozzles and cable for actuator.Photo: Another picture of the lateral-split mold.  The peel-ply is covering a 1 1/2" wide tape I made where the carbon overlapped.  I wanted a good strong joint on the bottom, and didn't want to sand later, so I added the peel ply.Photo: Michael's sanding board sitting on the left strake.  His solar powered cart that just got a motor upgrade is in the sun charging the batteries.Photo: Michael takes a break from sanding and surveys just how much more there is to fill.  We were both amazed at how little fill remained on the plane after sanding.  A testament to Michael's excellent work.Photo: Photo: Photo: 3 BID glass wetted out and covered with wax paper to squeegee excess.  This is for the longitudinal-split wheel pant mold.Photo: These are the longitudinal-split Travelling Wheel Pants Molds.  Typical layup schedule is 3 BID glass.Photo: These are the lateral-split pant molds.  If you build the engine stand per plans, they fit right in, and can use some wood screws to capture them and keep them from shifting around.Photo: Both halves all glassed with 3 BID and sitting on the floor curing.Photo: This was tough to see, but it is the lateral-split pant molds with 3 BID carbon.  This was my first foray into carbon, and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be.  In some respects, easier than glass.Photo: NACA 0021 symmetrical airfoil set at 0 degrees with fuselage at 1.8 degrees nose up.  Notice how "twisted" the plans gear leg is  compared to the new airfoil.Photo: In the never-ending debate over the gear-leg to fuselage fairing, we decided on "sliders" instead of "splitters."  We used nearly a whole roll of duct tape making a 1/8" gap for the sliders to clear the fuselage.Photo: Photo: a 3 BID layup was done over the 1/8" of duct tape, onto the gear leg.  Peel plied.Photo: Make sure the layup goes fore and aft quite a bit from the gear leg.  We eventually found ours did not go far enough aft and had to add on to it later.Photo: Right side gear, same thing.  Again, it didn't go far enough aft.Photo: The layup after the peel ply was removed.  Now, how do we get that duct tape off....Photo: Plans gear leg and fairing sanded and prepped for new EurekaCNC fairing cores.Photo: I worked with Steve from EurekaCNC on making a gear leg fairing for the Cozy Mk-IV.  These are the cores as received.  They're beautifully done.  Note how thin the section is at the maximum chord of the gear leg.  These add very little overall thickness.  You slice them into 3-4" sections to micro onto the gear legs.Photo: We cut our cores into 5 sections.  I would recommend doubling that to make smoother transitions.Photo: Right side fairing taped in place.  Note how much wider it is from the plans fairing.Photo: We low-vac'ed the whole thing.  Plastic sheet duct taped at the top, along the seam, and the bottom.  The Fein vacuum pulled everything nice and tight.Photo: A wider view of the setup.  Note that we did put a fan on the vacuum to keep it cool, but it didn't really seem to mind.Photo: The gear leg fairings after the micro had cured.  They turned out great.  A few bumps we had to sand down and a few depressions to fill, but this was very EZ.Photo: These are our brake heat shields, cut from 0.0625" 6061-T651 aluminum.  Printed the pattern on paper, glued it to the aluminum, cut it on the bandsaw and finished with the belt sander and a file.Photo: Note that we did have to clearance around the Matco caliper a bit more than the drawing had.  You do not want anything within about 1/8" or maybe 3/16" of the caliper.Photo: The finished gear fairing, with the top "slider" fuselage fillet piece in place.  All that remained to do was a micro radius in the corner.Photo: Leveling the fuselage 1.8 degrees nose up for alignment of the wheel pants.Photo: Aligning the wheel pants to the centerline of the plane.  We later gave up and decided not to use these particular pants.  They're simply too small for the CZ-4.Photo: Wheel pant mount and PTFE/SS brake lines visible.  Nut-plates still to be added to wheel pant mount.Photo: PTFE/SS brake line 3260-3-FOOT from Pegasus Auto Racing comes down to a 3261-3-00 fitting, then a AN822-3D Elbow into the Matco W51LXT BrakesPhoto: Added side windows after Marc's visit.  They're about 6" high by 14" wide.  Not yet floxed into place.Photo: Passenger side window.  Easy to add with a hole-saw and the Fein Multimaster with the carbide blade.  Still need to flox them in.Photo: Michael's been busy putting micro frosting on our Cozy cake.  Then he sands it all off.  He's has good luck using the orbital sander to get it down close, then switches to the fairing boards.  Just be careful with the power tools not to cut into the glass.Photo: Canopy micro'ed shut.Photo: When weird things happen to good engines...  The compression ratio on my engine was raised by decking the engine 0.100".  When that happens, the connecting rods hit the bottoms of the cylinder skirts.Photo: This is how Lycon fishmouths the cylinder skirts to clear.  This was not a one-off modification for me.  It is evidently part of their "Red Bull Air Race" modification package.  You can see the cylinder base flanges are also cut away.  This is a set of Red Bull cylinders.  Mine did not go this far, and I only had the fishmouth cuts done.Photo: We're replacing the rudder cable due to damaging one while sanding.  We decided to use a NAS 1435-K2 instead of the thimble.  This makes it easily disconnect with a screw.  The only issue is the hole in the rudder horn is larger than the hole in the NAS 1435-K2.  I plan to install a brass bushing to take up the space and allow the screw to be fully tightened without pinching the rudder horn.Photo: Infinity Stick Grip Top View.  Green button is momentary on for Control Wheel Steering.  Coolie hat is roll and pitch trim.  Right side switch is momentary down, middle off, latch up for landing brake actuator.Photo: Infinity Stick Grip Side View.  Red trigger is push to talk.  Black thumb button is undecided.  Blue button is latch on for fuel pump.Photo: Infinity Stick Grip Rear View,  right side thumb button is undecided.Photo: Infinity Stick Grip Rear View AlternatePhoto: Infinity Stick Grip Front ViewPhoto: Blocked the nose gear to take all of the weight of the nose to fit Jack Wilhelmson's nose gear actuator.Photo: Jack's Nose Gear Actuator nearly installed.Photo: Actuator installation complete.  Goes pretty easy.  You do need to power the unit up to get to all of the bolts though.Photo: The cover on the NG-30s was from the previous manual retract.  It will work for this, but we're going to have to figure out how to seal it from cold air coming in.Photo: Nose gear full down with Jack's actuator installed.Photo: We lifted the nose to get to the bottom of the wing-strake intersection.Photo: We checked the canard incidence against the NL#80 F template.  We average out to ~0.1 degree nose high on that template.Photo: Photo: WEMAC eyeball vents disassembled for black anodizing.Photo: WEMAC eyeball map lights disassembled for black anodizing.Photo: After purchasing the Garmin G3X, we replaced the 4" Firgelli automation actuator with a version with potentiometer feedback.  This makes it so we can see the position on the EFIS, but we had to move the upper mount point up about 1.2"Photo: A picture while it was out in the sun getting the dust blown off and vacuumed out.Photo: Three years worth of work, and it looks just like it did when I started working on it!  Big help I am!Photo: The Vertical Power VP-X control unit test fit.  We later decided to put it up in front of the instrument panel.  Getting crowded, and we don't even have any of the wires, power penetrations for the firewall, or engine sensors in place. This also answers the question of when you are ready to Zolatone.  It is AFTER you think you are ready to Zolatone.Photo: Battery contactors and PC680 batteries.Photo: Right hand battery and starter contactor.Photo: PC680 batteries held down with nylon webbing and D ring.Photo: Lower left and upper right are insulated bulkhead connections.  Lower left is for the starter.  Upper right is for the alternator.Photo: Layout of batteries, contactors, starter solenoid, and ground forest of tabs.Photo: Lightspeed ignition module affixed to firewall.Photo: Lightspeed module and B&C 24 tab forest of tabs gound.Photo: Photo: Rear armrests, pilot and copilot seat bottoms, and rear cover panel all painted with Zolatone Desert CamoPhoto: Starting to prime for ZolatonePhoto: Rear Seat area painted Desert Camo.  Note masked off area for fuel sight gauges.  Still need to paint Black/Black between the armrest and the longeron.Photo: Zolatone Desert Camo background, UltraSuede Sand on the left, UltraLeather Desert Clay on the right.  None are reproduced accurately.  The Zolatone is not as gray, and the UltraLeather is not as green.Photo: Rear cockpit in Zolatone Desert CamoPhoto: Front of Instrument panel in Zolatone Desert CamoPhoto: The interior is Zolatone Desert Camo.  The Instrument Panel and sides above the armrests are Zolatone Black/BlackPhoto: Canopy painted in Zolatone.  Interior still to be painted Black/BlackPhoto: CONFOR Foam seats basic shape complete and seat heaters in place.  Pink is soft, blue is medium, green is hard.  Each layer is 1/2" thick.  Lumbar Support and side bolsters still to be shaped inPhoto: Photo: Photo: Ultrasuede Mica color testPhoto: Passenger side window sanded for last layup.  Micro-Flox corner ready to sand.Photo: Pilot side window flox and microed in place.  I sure hope we can get the micro off the plastic covering the window!Photo: Armrest/throttle quadrant/storage bin clamped and curingPhoto: Sanded passenger side fuel gauge area for installation of Vance's fuel gaguesPhoto: Sanded pilot side fuel gauge for Vance's fuel gauge installPhoto: Armrest and throttle quadrant showing hinged storage bin door, Team Rocket throttle quadrant, and machined aluminum handle.Photo: Another view of the armrest/throttle quadrant.  The front will splay out to match the instrument panel width.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Primer complete on fuselage bottom and strake bottoms.Photo: Right wing primer complete on top and winglet.Photo: Primer with guide coat on left wing and canard.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Cabin Heat Butterfly Valve.  2" SCAT tubing on both sides of firewall.  Stainless butterfly, aluminum flanges.Photo: Fuel Placard made out of 0.063" 6061-T6 aluminum, anodized black.  The lettering is 0.2" tall and was laser etched.Photo: Hendricks Manufacturing latch installed against instrument panel and longeron.  Old door is epoxied closed and will be taped over with BID.Photo: Photo: Hendricks Manufacturing Latch from the Inside.  Modifying Lever to accomodate throw and over-centerPhoto: Prototype 3D printed latch handle in place for testing.  Latch is in the open, unlocked position.Photo: Prototype latch in the closed, locked position.  I am going to change the latch orientation by about 15 degrees so the latch handle top is horizontal to the longeron at full lock.  That will give a bit more over-center locking.Photo: Model of latch lever, handle, and link.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Cylinder Baffle Retention Detail.  Double 6-32 screws through 3/8" lightened 6061-T6 rods.  Since revised to a single 6-32 screw in the middle.  With a reasonable clamping force it simlpy doesn't deflect at the ends to warrant two screws.Photo: Velocity contour plot of a FLUENT model of the gear leg fairing and Goldschmied wheel pant.  The corner at the leading edge of the gear leg where it intersects with the wheel pant needs some work.Photo: Here is the pressure contour of the Goldschmied wheel pant.  Looks very clean, with pressure recovery after the trip to turbulent on the back side.  The gear leg to wheel pant intersection needs some work.Photo: Photo: Spraying Zolatone for the interior.  Full face mask with NIOSH carbon air filters.Photo: CuPro-Cote painted antennae ground planes for ELT and transponderPhoto: CuPro-Cote painted ELT ground planePhoto: Primer and sanded to 240 grit.Photo: Need to finish window edgesPhoto: N753CZ sporting actual registration decals!Photo: Need to re-install engine control surfaces.Photo: Photo: Photo: Almost looks like an airplane!Photo: Front view of proposed wheel pants.  Note that gear leg enters wheel pant as near tangent as possible.  ~1" radius fillet not in the model yet.Photo: Side view of proposed wheel pant.  17 degree line up allows for 2 degrees nose down relative to longerons, plus 15.5 degrees to allow parking.  Tire squat not yet modeled.Photo: Top view of proposed wheel pant.  The profile is from a Goldschmied paper from 1974, and is called the "X-35"Photo: Isometric view of proposed wheel pants.  The positive pressure gradient front goes clear back to ~70% length, and then it closes down in a pressure recovery tail.  Need to adjust to close the rear hole down.Photo: MDF Slab blanks for Wheel Pant Mold. This is two sections, one 3" thick and one 4" thick. They are laminated together with WEST epoxy. The stack measures 7" tall, 16" wide, and 48" long. It weighs almost 165 pounds.Photo: ShopBot roughing pass on the mold parts. Due to Z-axis height limits, the mold is carved in two parts. The one on the left will become the top, and it is sitting on a 1" MDF sketch board.Photo: Plug removed from left side lower mold, and roughing pass in progress.  Roughing pass on right side lower mold complete.Photo: A second roughing pass done on the lower mold, and in progress on the upper mold.  Finish pass at +.005" to be completed, then skimmed with WEST epoxy, then finish pass to 0.000".Photo: Final finishing pass on the wheel pant mold.  0.025" stepover on a surface with 3 coats of WEST that was 0.005" undersize.  Once the mold sections are microed together they'll be finish sanded to 320 grit and coated with paste wax and PVA.Photo: Finish pass complete on wheel pant mold.  The middle section will now be set onto the lower section, located with six 1/4" locating pins.  The removable flange sections also locate on the same six pins.Photo: Avionics and wiring going in.Photo: Instrument panel with some of the switches and the G3X screens temp'ed into place.Photo: The triumphant return of our parallel-valve IO-360-A1X.Photo: the engine mounted on the firewall with James Redmon's lamp-shade spinner flow guide in place.Photo: Another angle of the engine in place.  That flow guide looks like a carbon fiber 5 gallon bucket.  A very nice, expensive, 5 gallon bucket.Photo: Hangar Echo Seven at San Carlos Airport.  Future home of Experimental 753CZPhoto: East side door to hangar gap.  Need to replace wall trim with Trex, and add gap seal.Photo: East Wall.  Switches for light and fan, as well as one quad outlet.Photo: North-East Wall.  240VAC power, quad outlet wired to power strip.  Exhaust fan up high.Photo: 240VAC outlet, quad 110VAC outlet, and long power strip.Photo: Vent Fan on North WallPhoto: North West Wall.  Quad Outlet 110VAC.Photo: West Wall.  Quad Outlet 110VAC near door.Photo: West side door to hangar gap.  Need to replace wall trim with Trex, and add gap seal.Photo: Fuselage on the flatbed truck.  We used two ramps to get it on to the lift gate, which was raised about halfway.Photo: Fuselage with wings and canard tucked underneath, after a 145 mile drive.Photo: the 16' truck was overkill.  The 14 footer would have done the job.  The lift gate made loading and unloading much easier.Photo: the wings tucked under with the winglets aimed at the cab of the truck.  The canard fit between the two, upside down.Photo: Truck and plane after unloading.Photo: N753CZ home safe and sound at Hangar Echo Seven at San Carlos Airport.Photo: Photo: Photo: Alternator & Starter ring gear line up after B&C provided a new alternator mount bracket.Photo: Fuel injection mounted with 1" spacer and 85 degree elbow.  There is <1/2" clearance between the K&N air filter and the engine mount.  I could fly-cut the spacer to bring it up if I needed to.  As-is the filter only protrudes into the NACA by ~3/4".Photo: Photo: Photo: Inter-cylinder baffle is perfect.  Cylinder wrap baffles also good.  How many are required?  8?Photo: Inter-cylinder baffle also applied to rear of #1 cylinder.  Fits very well.Photo: Inter-cylinder baffles fit very well.  No changes required for this part.  Kit requires quantity 4.Photo: Generally good fit of rear baffle.  Fits well to cylinders and case.   Our case is a -A1H so the rear governor pad requires some additional cutting.Photo: Misalignment of alternator pulley and hole.  Hole needs to go down and left.Photo: Starter cutout.  Needs to be opened more to allow baffle to move forward ~1/2".Photo: #2 and #4 Cylinder head baffles are OK.  #4 baffle needs to be ~1/2-3/4" taller to hit cowling.Photo: Rear baffle support bracket.  Fits top and rear.  Legs are a bit too long.Photo: Compare to previous photo.  My finger is roughly where the hole is.  Needs to be ~1" shorter.Photo: Rear baffle support bracket fits top and rear, but bolt holes are off.  I'd estimate 1" too low.  This is a metal-safe dimension, so it is OK, but could be better.Photo: Rear baffle ok at center and at two points outboard, but needs additional space under alternator and starter.  Note the alternator holes do not line up.  The bolt hole is too high, as is the pulley hole.Photo: Note section where rear baffle is not tall enough.  Also, #1 cylinder head baffle appears to be missing a bend line.  It should bend outboard like the #2 baffle.Photo: Rear baffle is plenty tall at the edge, but needs to be taller toward the middle, not the center.  Also needs to extend further outboard.Photo: Rear baffle with markings for adjustment.  In general, lower edge down ~1-2"Photo: #1 baffle needs to come much lower, is missing a bend line to have it point outboard.Photo: Front baffle is a bit odd.  The left and right have a longitudinal mismatch of ~1-2".  There is no provision for a bend in either to make them mate up.Photo: Longitudinal mismatch between forward baffle.Photo: Right side forward baffle not a great fit.  Plus the mount won't move and the baffles will, so this is an air gap issue.Photo: Fit of forward right side baffle.Photo: #1 and #3 baffle both tall enough.Photo: #1 baffle should have a bend at the corner, and then go outboard through the exhaust pipes.Photo: Forward baffle needs to be much taller.Photo: Right side forward baffle also needs to be much taller.Photo: Markings for right side forward baffle to go up.  Between 1 and 3.75" taller.Photo: Aluminum parts back from Milner's Anodizing.  Thanks Mike!  There are so many parts in here that are NOT in the plans.  Many you just improvise, most I went a little OCD with.  The three long black rods are for the canopy latch.  I am using AN-3 rod ends on them, and one end is left-hand threaded to make adjusting them very EZ.  The manifold below them is a standard Van's part for fuel, manifold, and oil pressure sensors.Photo: The lower parts are waterjet cut tie downs inspired by the design by Robin du Bois.  The upper parts in red are the canopy latch hardware.Photo: The bespoke canopy latch handle I designed in SolidWorks and machined on a CNC machine at TechShop.  The laser engraving was done on an Epilog laser.  On the edge out of view it says "Locked" which can only be seen when the canopy is completely latched.  The part above it is a keyed washer to orient the ACS keyed ignition to the instrument panel.Photo: CNC machined exhaust pipe clamps.  Rivets around the perimeter will hold them to the rear baffle.  There is an AN-3 bolt that goes between the pipes to clamp them in place.Photo: Here is a handy little part.  These are AN-3 rod end bearing washers.  These are cut to a 20 degree angle to allow full freedom of the spherical rod end bearings in various places.  I'm using these on the canopy latch and at the throttle and mixture cables at the fuel injection servo.Photo: Here we have a prime example of why this plane is taking so long.  From the wing come a set of coaxial cables for the antennae.  In our case a NAV and a COMM in each wing, and an APRS in the right wing as well.  When you take the wing off, most people put a disconnect for the coax to make it easier.  I went three steps further, and made the connection a bulkhead connector, then designed a bracket in SolidWorks.  I cut them out on the CNC machine at TechShop, using 1/16" thick 1x1 aluminum angle stock.  The bottom has the D feature to keep the coax bulkhead fittings from rotating.  The one on the far right is a similar part that hold two AN-3 bulkhead fittings up in the footwell where the stainless braid/Telfon brake lines mate to the aluminum hard lines.  In every case these parts will probably never be seen by anyone, but I wanted them to be as perfect as I could get them.Photo: Another example of the over-engineering.  This is a two-part cable clamp for the mixture and throttle cables.  It will live in the center console just behind the throttle quadrant, and again, will never be seen.Photo: This is a folded 0.063" bracket for the magnetometer for the G3X.  It will live in the end of the left strake.  I added enough folds that it ended up very stiff.  I could have done this out of 0.040 stock and saved some weight.  To the right is the intake flange for the fuel servo, finally finished and anodized.Photo: These are the cylinder wrap baffles.  In another photo you can see the hollowed out 3/8" aluminum tubes I am using to hold these in place.  Originally I was going to use a screw to hold them in place, but decided it was lighter, easier, and maybe more robust to use the plans method of using safety wire.Photo: Here are the brackets with their coax and AN-3 fittings installed.Photo: Photo: Oil cooler inlet duct.  Designed in SolidWorks, CNC machined out of blue foam on the ShopBot, then slathered with micro.Photo: ailerons sanded down then wiped with West.  oil cooler inlet and outlet ducts slathered with micro.Photo: Wheel pant mold sanded with a soft foam Durablock.  First 40 grit to get rid of the jogs between the MDF joins, then 80, then 180.Photo: Final West wipe on the wheel pant mold.  Next is to sand it 80 them 180, then paint, wax, and PVA. If you look closely you can see my distorted reflection in the epoxy.Photo: Folded aluminum mount for the GMU-44 magnetometerPhoto: test fitting aluminum lines to measure eventual SS/PTFE/Firesleeve oil and fuel lines.Photo: Photo: Throttle quadrant with engraved labels for Mixture and ThrottlePhoto: Instument panel with G3X and Radio stack in placePhoto: ShopBot machining the molds for the audio connections.Photo: Machining the Male Mold for the audio connection panelsPhoto: ShopBot cut molds for the oil coller inlet and outlet ducts.Photo: Right side wing before mounting to Spar.  Flip-down tie-down in place.Photo: Cables tucked out of the way and held in place with hot-melt glue.Photo: Connnection for nav/strobe lights in wing root.Photo: Photo: Photo: Working on wiring.  Lots and lots of wires...Photo: One of the audio panel connectors ready to go in.Photo: The avionics are not in yet, but I did put in the Otto Pilot.Photo: "Dad, no matter how much I move this lever, the plane still does not move."Photo: "Maybe Me-Ma can get it to work."Photo: "What do all of these buttons do?"Photo: Wires.  Lots and lots of wires.Photo: Baffles mostly in place.Photo: I don't think the kayak will fit as cargo.Photo: A measuring stick with a Sharpie helps to mark the baffes to cut them to the right height.Photo: Test fitting baffles.Photo: Test fitting baffles.Photo: Photo: Photo: Almost perfect.Photo: Two Cozy Mk-Ivs do fit in the hangar.  We'd have had more room if we offset one to the side a few feet.Photo: Fuel caps cut in and taped off.  The aluminum cap flange was drilled around the circumference before floxing and glassing them in place.Photo: The VersaLaser has been really handy for laser etching aluminum bits.Photo: Layups for the roll trim horseshoe.Photo: Roll trim horseshoe.Photo: Roll trim horseshoe curing.Photo: Wrapped PVC pipe for air vent inlets.Photo: Oil cooler inlet duct mold micro'edPhoto: Ailerons sanded and West wiped.  Oil cooler ducts microedPhoto: Wheel pant mold sanded down to 80 grit.Photo: Last skim of West on the wheel pant moldsPhoto: Oil cooler duct almost ready to tape and do the layups.Photo: Right aileron balance check.  Right in the middle of top side level and bottom side level.  Still needs paint, but it will be in tolerance.Photo: Left side aileron balance, also in tolerance.  Only folks that have built these really know what this means and how hard it is to achieve.Photo: Test fit of carbon Goldschmied Wheel Pant.  Looks good! Just sitting on the tire in this picture.  Mount and intersection fairing to be done later.Photo: Three of the four molded parts for the oil cooler in let and outlet ducts.Photo: Oil cooler ducts after peeling off the peel ply.  Still a bit green to remove from the molds.Photo: Horseshoe-style roll trim servo in place on stainless/Fiberfrax spar heat shield.Photo: Oil cooler ducts popped from the molds, but not trimmed or halves bonded.Photo: Final oil cooler inlet duct on the mold.Photo: Ready to be popped off the duct tape mold release.Photo: Oil cooler inlet and outlet ducts cleco'ed together.Photo: Propellor balancer on loan from Tim Andres.  VERY sensitive when you trim it all out.Photo: Propeller and extension test fit onto the engine.  The piece of blue masking tape on the left blade was all that was needed to get it to balance.  Painting the tips white, with heavier paint on that blade should do the trick.Photo: Loctite 598 (RTV) baffles in place on the cylinder barrels and heads.Photo: Very EZ to make.  Draw baffle shape on saran wrap, cover and squeegee with Loctite 598, place one layer of BID, cover and squeegee with more RTV, final cover of saran wrap, roll out with rolling pin to infuse RTV into BID.  Cut to final shape with a razor blade.  Peel one side of saran wrap, stick it in place and rolling pin it on nice and smooth.  Peel the last side of saran wrap, and let it cure.Photo: These pieces were impossible to get conformal in aluminum.  In BID/RTV they lay right down perfectly.Photo: Cylinder barrels and heads BID/RTV baffles in place.  I did not put a BID/RTV baffle in between the two cylinder heads, but it will be EZ to do so later if I want to use the cooling air a bit more efficiently.Photo: BID/RTV baffles lay down very nicely over very complex curves of the cylinder head.  I later trimmed them with a razor blade so the edges are nice and straight.Photo: This is Nick Ugolini's capacitive fuel probe.  It was easy to retrofit in.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Allen Valve to replace the Weatherhead valve.  Photo: The Allen fuel valve with handle by Del Shier.  The placard was done by me, and laser-etched on the laser cutter.  The single screw holds both the placard and the bracket that holds the Allen valve in place.Photo: Photo: Using a metal tape to fit the curve for the NACA duct diffuser.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Back panel upholstered in leather, CNC embroidered by my Mom.  Photo: Photo: Photo: Test-fitting the Cozy Girrls J hinges for the front compartment.Photo: J hinges for the front compartment as supplied by the CozyGirrls.  The ball detent pins with retention cord are from McMaster-Carr.  The hinge brackets to be floxed in were designed in SolidWorks and machined by me on the mill.Photo: Front compartment hinge detail.Photo: Pressure manifold to the left, oil temperature connector in the Adel clamp, and ANL60 fuse and alternator bulkhead fitting.  Need a bus bar between the ANL60 and the Blue Sea Bulkhead fitting.  Fuel Tank vent manifold to the top.Photo: Photo: Mold for the rear heat duct cover taped up with grey mold release tape.Photo: The table top and wall provide the flanges for the part.  It came out very clean and fit perfectly.Photo: I changed the plans baffles.  I did not like the 90 degree bend required for the rubber baffles, so I copied the plans side baffles to the front of the engine as well.Photo: Photo: Photo: Rear heat duct and control cable cover with ~3 BID over the top.Photo: The Featherlight cowls notoriously fit poorly to the exhaust pipes.  I cut a form on the CNC router, assembled it over the pipes, and filled it with foam.Photo: Right side exhaust got the same treatment. The foam is just a filler to be glassed over and removed later. Photo: Frosting on the cowl-cake.Photo: Photo: Here is the NACA diffuser mold.  It is made up of 5 pieces of ~3" urethane foam.  It was designed in SolidWorks and cut on the ShopBot.  The tooling marks sanded out very easily.Photo: Taped the mold with aluminum flashing tape and waxed it for release.  The red printing transferred to the part though.Photo: An attempt to use a ball detent to hold the front compartment closed.  It failed.Photo: A blurrier picture of a crappy front compartment latch.Photo: There is a prize for the largest NACA duct diffuser, right?  This one is over 30" wide at the top, and is intended to be tangent to the cylinder barrels.  The right side is offset because of the cylinder offset.Photo: Here is it, 2 BID, popped off the mold.  The aluminum tape used as mold release had red printing on it that transferred to the part.  Some day I'll paint it so that'll go away.  Need to provide the cutout for the sump and engine mount.Photo: The plans aluminum attachment for the rudder cable has been known to elongate the holes.  This is replaced by a pair of motorcycle chain links with two clevis pins, held by a single safety pin.  Photo: Here is the opposite side, showing the motorcycle chain link and clevis pins.  This is non-adjustable, so I incorporated a turnbuckle adjustment up at the rudder pedals.Photo: NACA diffuser test-fit in place.  Need to make flange attach points on the firewall, and pass-throughs for throttle, mixture, fuel, etc.  It is a REALLY BIG diffuser, that is for sure!Photo: Front compartment latch exploded view.  The cable is a Shimano derailleur cable.  Next is a 5/16" diameter dowel pin with a chamfer on the nose.  It is drilled through with a ~0.080" drill.  Counterbored on the front to allow the cable ferrule to fit, and counterbored on the back for the spring.  The body has a 5/16" ID bronze bushing.  The back of the body is counterbored for the cable outer.Photo: Photo: Front compartment latch assembled.  After this picture was taken I turned a series of grooves in the body to allow the flox to hold it better.Photo: The rear baffle and exhaust exit.  The CNCed exhaust exit is riveted to a sandwich of the rear baffle, the MacFarlane baffle material, and a backing ring.Photo: Here you can just make out the AN3 bolt that goes between the two pipes to clamp them in the CNCed exhaust clamp.  Photo: A better view of the exhaust and rear baffle.  Need to trim the baffle material once the cowl is completed.Photo: These are the forms for the lower cowl baffles.  They meet the NACA at the front, and are bounded on the top by the oversized NACA diffuser.  The foam will be replaced by a 4 BID flange much like the upper cowls.  The McFarlane baffles going from the lower cowl to the diffuser.  Some sort of curved corner deflector will help get air to the forward two cylinders.Photo: Here is the oil cooler inlet, the cooler, and the outlet duct.Photo: The outlet worked out to be almost exactly tangent to the upper surface.  I'll cut the upper cowl to push an exit ramp to match the bottom of the slot.  Should be a very clean outlet duct.Photo: The oil cooler outlet duct will be a submerged ramp.  I should be able to cut the top back to increase the outlet area to give adequate cooling and minimum drag. Photo: The oil cooler outlet duct in place.  Need to cut the exit ramp into the top cowl.  The slot can be opened up by cutting the top back until the cooling is adequate.Photo: Cowl exhaust re-faired and 3 BID layup over silver mold release tape.Photo: Now that's what the wiring should look like.Photo: Oh no.  Not like that.Photo: Yes, more like that.  I think I can clean up the pitot-static lines a bit more.  The GDU375 cable on the right needs an Adel clamp to the rear of the radio rack.Photo: Rear seats.   Here Rick was checking the fit of the heat duct cver after covering it with leather.Photo: Photo: I have been warned to provide a strain relief for the alternator field winding connections.  I used both connections from the white wires using 18 AWG Tefzel wire all the way to the voltage regulator up at F-22.  That gives me a backup.  The upper black wire is NC internal to the alternator, so it is only there to provide additional support.  Then I used the rubber grommets from the MetriPak family of connectors to locally provide isolation to the FastOn connectors.  That helps too.Photo: The plans connection of a bolt through a thimble on the rudder cable does not provide any adjustment of the cable tension or length.  Using the motorcycle chain link in the engine compartment removed any adjustment.  This solution is to modify a turnbuckle to use a ball-joint rod-end on one end and fit the rudder cable thimble on the other.  An easy modification.Photo: Here are the lower cowl baffles That have been floxed and BID taped in place, with peel ply over the top.Photo: Finished lower cowl baffles.  There are ~2" radius formed on a piece of 4" aluminum ducting.   They were then lined up so that each provides air aimed at the front of the entry to the cylinder it is below.Photo: Here you can see the curvature.  I left them long and will cut them back to adjust cooling to be equal on all cylinders.Photo: Final layup for the oil cooler outlet duct is a 2 BID on the cowl, overlayed onto the oil cooler outlet duct, which is covered with a single piece of Gorilla mold release tape.  Some micro and primer and it should be done.  Notice the stop holes drilled in the corners from when I cut the cowl and bent it down.  They'll get filled.Photo: Wires.  So many wires...Photo: GTN650 Works!Photo: G3X MFD works!Photo: SL-30 Works!Photo: G3X PFD works!Photo: Audio panel works!Photo: Photo: Here is the fuel vent manifold, as well as the engine pressure sensor manifold, and some of the high-power wiring.  The buss bar that goes from the ANL fuse to the Alternator feed through needs to be installed.Photo: Detail of the left side electrical conduit.  These go into the left wing and also to all of the engine wiring.Photo: Detail of wires coming out of the right side electrical conduit.  These all go into the right wing.Photo: The cold side of the firewall getting full.  Still need to wire the LSE Plasma III, and do lacing wire for the wiring going over the top.Photo: Photo: Canopy open, interior out, wiring almost complete.Photo: This is all of the lead ballast in the nose ballast box when I did the weight and balance.  With a 165# pilot (me) this pouts the CG right around 100".Photo: Each seat gets a connection panel.  Headphones, Microphone, LEMO for powered ANR headsets, Oxygen, Aux jack for music, and later a USB port for powering devices.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Video: Photo: Oil kept leaking from that stud, just in front of the rung gear support.Photo: And tore the engine down again.  See those little o-rings near the bottom?  Don't forget to put them in!Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: