92 Photos - Jul 12, 2013
Photo: Downtown IrkutskPhoto: Downtown IrkutskPhoto: Liz considers Lake BaikalPhoto: Lake BaikalPhoto: A day off, and next to Lake Baikal?!Photo: Georgy bargains for smoked fish at the Baikal marketPhoto: the fish-mongers offeringsPhoto: kids throwing rocks by the baikal lakeshorePhoto: Photo: Georgy's Photo: A gray (somehow) wagtailPhoto: The view from our "hotel" (read campsite with wifi and outhouses) in Listvianka, next to the BaikalPhoto: Georgy's Photo:  Liz and Matt in the Baikal MuseumPhoto: Georgy's Photo: Matt tries to decipher some sort of Russian chartPhoto: Georgy's Photo: inferior (by Georgy's expert standards) taxidermic mounts in the Baikal MuseumPhoto: A cool native Baikal fishPhoto: Georgy's Photo: Giant endemic Baikal amphipods, the size of your thumbPhoto: Georgy's Photo: Harius fish from Baikal at the museumPhoto: Another shot of the nyerpa...so fat, so cutePhoto: zeppelin: An example of the world's only species of Freshwater seal, the nyerpaPhoto: Georgy boards our vessel for a lake crossingPhoto: boats at the wharf at Listvianka, east coast of BaikalPhoto: Liz inclines on the rail fo the Shark, crossing the Baikal on the 4th of JulyPhoto: Tasty (and tiny) fried endemic Baikal fishPhoto: Georgy's Photo: a gull takes off over the lakePhoto: Georgy's Photo:Photo: It's cold on Lake Baikal in July!Photo: wildflowers near the edge of the BaikalPhoto: walking the rail along the lakePhoto: Georgy enters the mouth of a long tunnel of the Baikal railway (construction of the railway cost the lives of 2,000 prisoners and exiles)Photo: Light at the end of the tunnelPhoto: Georgy's Photo: The Transiberian railway alongside the Baikal...now only used for a biweekly tour and for suppliesPhoto: Georgy's Photo: The train tunnelPhoto: Photo: Our group and the lakePhoto: Liz follows the precarious pathPhoto: The gang maws some delicious smoked fish, bread, and cheese on the Baikal lakeside during a short break in the tourPhoto: Lock of Love and the great Russian lakePhoto: In Russian pool, you aim for the scratch balls, the pockets are tiny, and games last for hours!Photo: Village on the east edge of the baikalPhoto: Field fare to the XTREME!Photo: Georgy's Photo: Yulia's happy to enjoy some local Hurshool dumplings in ArshanPhoto: The management welcomes us at our digs in ArshanPhoto: Georgy's Photo: Delicious poza dumplings in ArshanPhoto: The main drag in ArshanPhoto: At last, acceptable lodgings...for the most part everyone sleeps better in their tents than in the hotels we've patronizedPhoto: Georgy's Photo: Georgy's study of people sampling some local mineral water in ArshanPhoto: Great tit (Parus major): the chickadee equivalent of RussiaPhoto: A Daurian redstart at our place in ArshanPhoto: Georgy's Photo: Spirit Trees in ArshanPhoto: Georgy's Photo: A gray wagtail showing off his not-so-gray colorsPhoto: Trees along the path to the Arshan waterfalls bear the wishes of the agesPhoto: Georgy's Photo: Say, you got some foooood?!Photo: The sacred stream and the devout at ArshanPhoto: Georgy's Photo: Yulia, Matt, and Liz on a rickety bridge in front of the graffitied waterfallPhoto: Georgy's Photo: the falls at ArshanPhoto: This photo summarizes for me Russia's starkly beautiful wildlands and bafflingly shoddy and masochistic human constructionsPhoto: A nuthatch silhouettes against the fogs of the Arshan highlandsPhoto: Arshan's waterfall: TAG! Now you're ugly.Photo: Arshan waterfall: TAG!Photo: The (as yet ungrafitied) creek canyon running down to ArshanPhoto: Our campsite near the Selenga deltaPhoto: A grey heron near our campsite east of IrkutskPhoto: Georgy's Photo: that gray heronPhoto: Yeah, that's a long time in a carPhoto: A Warning? Roadside, along the Selenga RiverPhoto: The Selenga River, and some very different landscape as we head into the steppesPhoto: A shrike near our campsitePhoto: Look ahead, it's fresh, unpotholed road!Photo: Setting up camp: Those aren't birds, they're insectsPhoto: Georgy's Photo: An azure-winged magpiePhoto: Another beautiful morning, and time to pack up and catch some birdsPhoto: The swallow store...they were fresh out of swallows, unfortunatelyPhoto: celebrating Yulia's birthday: Liz finishes a field-style birthday cake while Georgy poors a glass of refreshing whitePhoto: Yulia's "Field Birthday Cake": Delicious!Photo: Georgy's Photo: An adult and juvenile Daurian JackdawPhoto: Carrion crows greet us in the morning: a good sign?Photo: The swallow cafe! Swallows not on the menu, unfortunately...Photo: Liz makes a new friendPhoto: Liz spotting birds at our soon-to-be legendary site, where we caught, measured, and took samples from 42 birds in one day!Photo: Sunrise at our site east of ChitaPhoto: Another morning, more breakfast sandwichesPhoto: The big 15m net setup at our best site in the tytleri/ gutturalis contact zone (we caught 42 birds here!)Photo: Many sites have one random drunk guy onlookerPhoto: Georgy's Photo: The assembly line of collecting data (Matt counts mites, as Liz masses a bird and Yulia transcribes)Photo: Georgy's Photo: A light, gutturalis-looking bird at bottom; a dark, tytleri-looking bird at top; both caught at one legendary barn 150km east of ChitaPhoto: Georgy's Photo: In the contact zone--gutturalis to tytleri, bottom to topPhoto: Georgy's Photo: Matt counts mites (check out that headgear)Photo: Georgy's Photo: Liz is bemused to find gutturalis-like birdsPhoto: Sunrise 100km east of ChitaPhoto: Sunrise shot 2: east of ChitaPhoto: Waiting for swallowsPhoto: Chita: a welcoming place!