125 Photos - Mar 9, 2015
Photo: preparing the gunwales' scarf jointsPhoto: 2 bulkheads fitted, next are the gunwalesPhoto: scarf joint the gunwales with epoxy resinPhoto: this wood is too too hard to bend into the proper shape :-( I have to change the design a bit at this phase...Photo: glueing the first inner gunwale, now I understand why the more clamps the better...Photo: dry-fitting the starboard inner gunwales, just to get the wood into shape, no glue yetPhoto: dry - fitting the port inner gunwalesPhoto: glueing the port inner gunwalePhoto: having modified the design, it took 30' to fit the gunwale with clamps, not much bending is requiredPhoto: with these "straight" gunwales, the decks would be sunken down a bitPhoto: it's very interesting to see the canoe take shape, day by dayPhoto: fitting the forward thwartPhoto: fitting the aft thwartPhoto: 3 thwarts: the forward and aft fitted, the center fixed in positionPhoto: all thwarts fitted, now preparing the forward & aft decksPhoto: the sunken decks... I had an idea of using paint & varnish to make them look nice...Photo: the deck planks are cut perfectly...Photo: fitting the port outer gunwalePhoto: the boat's eyes will be above this outer gunwale linesPhoto: making the seats' framesPhoto: 2 seats' framesPhoto: the seats in their calculated positions...Photo: there's still much work to finish the boat's "upper structure"Photo: the outer gunwales are fitted and screwed with the inner onesPhoto: seal the forward and aft watertight compartmentsPhoto: these watertight compartments will keep the boat afloat when floodedPhoto: a view from above... the two seats in their approximate positionsPhoto: making the seats, I use staple to temporarily hold the plastic bands in place...Photo: then screw them to the wooden frame. the 1st seat finished!Photo: next day is for the second seat...Photo: the seats' frames "varnished", actually, it's hard to find varnish nowadays, people doesn't usually use it anymore, I used transparent PU (polyurethane) paint with wooden color... The grain of "căm xe" wood is excellent!!Photo: the 2nd seat finished!Photo: the new item in my power tool set, in the far right, a vibrating sander, next to the random orbital sander... Sanding, fairing is always a labour - intensive taskPhoto: the "căm xe" wood plank, very heavy, preparing to cut the seats' legsPhoto: legs cut and trim to the proper shapesPhoto: prepare to glue the first 4 seat legsPhoto: the 4 legs gluedPhoto: the aft seat in its positionPhoto: sanding the hull prepare for painting, the scale read exactly at 30kg, projected final weight: 35kgPhoto: the seats mounts done!Photo: the seats would be screwed to their legs, but for now, they're left un-attached waiting for paintingPhoto: a very sunny day, good for paintingPhoto: 2nd layer of PUPhoto: 3rd layer of PUPhoto: the first layer of PUPhoto: for the interior, I decided to apply only 3 layers of paintPhoto: and no top coat (gloss), it doesn't need to be to shiny (and thus... slippery) insidePhoto: fitting the 3 bottom runners, the first 2Photo: fitting the center bottom runnerPhoto: the rubber lines hold the runner in place while glueingPhoto: 3 bottom runners fitted, reenforce the 2 ends with additional layer of fiberglassPhoto: sanding, sanding.... endless sanding....Photo: the exterior after 2 layers of primerPhoto: the first layer of main coatPhoto: 1st layer of main coat, the color is still not even yet... waiting for the 2nd layerPhoto: the 2nd main coat applied, boat eyes and names decals stickedPhoto: a mismatch in font between my computer and the decal cutter guy's caused this ugly font used :-(Photo: the boat's eyesPhoto: the topcoat of satin-glossPhoto: this top coat is quite hard, that's goodPhoto: fitting the seatsPhoto: my contact information on the aft deckPhoto: from afar, the boat looks great! only a close-in view would show many technical errors :-(Photo: a 99% completed canoe!Photo: many lessons learned for the next boat projectPhoto: structurally, the boat is rather solid, but in details, there's quite some minor defects, which affects the final finish and look :-(Photo: there were much errors made, especially in polishing and painting :-((Photo: the handles at two ends to lift, pull... the boatPhoto: a line to tie the boat to dock...Photo: spent Saturday to make this simplest boat-moving trailer, some wooden planks and 2 small wheelsPhoto: this shape looks 'adorable' :-) everything is done and ready!Photo: one can find minor defects here and there, but... that's not too importantPhoto: the hull is very firm and solid, just the performance is still unknown until trialsPhoto: christened and launched the canoe!Photo: first trial, just a few kilometers...Photo: overall, I'm more than pleased with this newly born child;  a boat on water, and under the sun looks superb! :-)Photo: the water is still low, but I can't wait any longer...Photo: re-enforce this cheap plastic paddle with epoxy and a layer of fiberglass, this paddle design has flaws in many details, but temporarily use it for now... I would make another paddle from carbon fiber, lighter and stronger, but that's another up-coming projectPhoto: today, I tested the boat in tandem configuration, but the 2nd hand is taking this photo :-)Photo: tested the canoe buoyancy, it stays afloat even if completely flooded, good!Photo: a colleague and friend who usually go paddling with mePhoto: boat stability is a great issue in tandem configuration, it shakes violently... :-( I'm thinking about a fix to this problem, but meanwhile I don't want just to lower the high seats, they make very comfortable position and reduce the paddling effortPhoto: I'm extremely happy with the boat agility and speed, with 2 hands, it takes much less effort to propel the hull to optimal speedPhoto: paddles mounting rackPhoto: the flashing signal light for night going, sensing lighting condition to turn on/off automaticallyPhoto: I need more and more woodworking tools... currently all I have is just some simple basic onesPhoto: Photo: re-enforce the glueing with screwslesson learned: don't use epoxy resin in thin layers, epoxy requires a certain mass to stay strong, thin layer of epoxy is weak, better use mono glue like ATM (polyvinyl acetate) for this kind of jobPhoto: 5 wooden planks glued together to form the oars (handle and blade)one more lesson learned: avoid using epoxy resin to bond tropical hard woods, since the wood is too dense, it will absorb little epoxy, resulting in a very weak bond...Photo: the two oars take initial shapePhoto: my new tool: a power planerPhoto: the planer is very useful, it make the scarfing work much less tedious... it's labour-intensive to scarf and plane the oars into their final shapesPhoto: the anchor, a bit too big & heavy for my canoe. The iritating thing is that the metal worker wrongly understood my very obvious design drawing: looking from above, the spade blade should be concave (not convex) ... :-(decide to use it anyhow, next is to fill the anchor with casted lead, to concentrate weight into the spade's tip...Photo: melting the lead for casting into the anchorPhoto: the spade anchor is done, just some more painting workPhoto: I used alcohol to burn the leadPhoto: scarfing the oars into shapesPhoto: the blades are almost finishedPhoto: some more scarfing and planing work needed to make the handle really roundedPhoto: I should re-enforce the blades with layers of fiberglass, to make them stronger...Photo: the anchor's tip has been filled with 1.5 kg of lead, next is to seal it off with epoxy to avoid the bimetallic (galvanic) corrosionPhoto: just some more polishing and varnishing worksPhoto: glassing the oars' blades to add more strengthPhoto: the oarlockPhoto: the outrigger and the oars...Photo: the oars are fitted with steel handles, and lead casted inside the hollow tubesPhoto: pulling the canoe to dry dock for maintenance and fitting new accessories...Photo: the aft water light compartment has been leaked with lots of water, need to re-seal the bilges to prevent wood from rotting...Photo: some reinforcement at the bottom, some small paint scratches...Photo: the fitted, unpaint anchor cleat...Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: the canoe received a new layer of paint... the oars are painted also...Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Resume boating works after a long new year holiday...Photo: Decided to use carbon fiber fabric to make lightweight and strong oarsPhoto: Photo: the blades and handles are glued