125 Photos - Oct 6, 2013
Photo: my small workshopPhoto: tool table & shelf, and the workbenchPhoto: the workbench, with clamps, a hand plane, chisel and hammerPhoto: the workbench is 3m longPhoto: it was very hard to find a hand plane, seems like everyone is using power tools nowadays...Photo: boat plan stitched on the wallPhoto: dozens kind of different tools and materialsPhoto: want to see any tools and materials tidyPhoto: in the plastic cups, I collected the sawing and sanding dust  used to thicken epoxy (fillet)Photo: epoxy resin components A & B, the digital scale for weighingPhoto: power tools on table's face, hand tools underneathPhoto: from left to right: a jig saw, an angle grinder, a drill, and a random orbital sanderPhoto: some hand toolsPhoto: also built other objects: a bed, a small shelf, and a chairPhoto: the bed was lots of workPhoto: also built this pedestal (to run the motobike in), no nail or screw, just to test the strength of epoxy resinPhoto: the 2 stands to work outdoor (e.g: sanding, painting), or to be used in conjunction with the main workbenchPhoto: getting more and more experiences with these assets building...Photo: now that the ordered plywood sheets have arrived, time to start with the canoe...Photo: measure, double measure...Photo: the quality of plywood turn out not to be as good as I expected :-(Photo: "measure twice, cut once"...Photo: check the plan details...Photo: marking planks on the plywood sheetPhoto: measure, drawing, marking the curves...Photo: cut out...Photo: the first center piecePhoto: the first sheet cut...Photo: the 1st sheet cut, still more drawing & cutting jobs to be done...Photo: the complete set of bilges has been cutPhoto: mark out the forward & aft bulkheads, and the center mold, they represent the cross sections of the canoe at near bow, middle, and near sternPhoto: port & starboard bilges are clamped together in pair, to make sure they are worked to exactly the same shapePhoto: I use an angle grinder to trim the edges, smoothen the curves...Photo: I prefer to work outdoor if possible (it rains a lot these days), to keep sanding dust out of the workshopPhoto: bilges are screwed to a piece of wood to fix the positionPhoto: mixing epoxy resin with an electronic scale, I use a straw tube to add small amount of component A & B, little by little, to weigh to the exact mixing ratio...Photo: ready to glassPhoto: 3 pieces of 6-oz fiberglass without epoxy, the others are epoxied alreadyPhoto: just simple butt joints with epoxy & fiberglassPhoto: complete set of bilges glassed (one side)Photo: leave overnight for the epoxy to cure, the next day, I turn over the bilges and similarly glassing the other sidePhoto: the bulkheads and center mold have been cutPhoto: marking the position of the center mold, forward and aft bulkheadsPhoto: stitch the 1st pair of bilgesPhoto: the 1st pair of bilges stitchedPhoto: stitch the 2nd pair of bilgesPhoto: it doesn't form any obvious shape at this stage still...Photo: temporarily fitting the bulkheads & center mold, pieces of ~ 7 cm steel wire to stitch the bilgesPhoto: bulkheads, center mold stitched in place with 2 pairs of lower bilgesPhoto: a look from stern to bow, 2 pairs of bilges stitchedPhoto: stitch the final 3rd pair of bilgesPhoto: the hull takes initial shape, the 2 ends are left un-stitched for nowPhoto: an almost complete look of the boat hullPhoto: still some more work to finish stitching the 2 ends and start glueingPhoto: there's some small gaps between bilges toward the stern, but that's acceptable I thinkPhoto: the bow in good shapePhoto: a nice shape finally :-)Photo: another angle of the hullPhoto: another angle of the hullPhoto: almost a symmetric shape from this perspectivePhoto: the bow is stitched perfectly, not a single ray of light pass through the gapsPhoto: from stern to bowPhoto: from bow to sternPhoto: duck tape the exterior seams to prevent leaking of epoxyPhoto: duck tape the 2 sides of a seam to prevent epoxy messing aroundPhoto: apply the thickened epoxyPhoto: when the epoxy half cures, remove the duct tape, this ensures a clean fillet linePhoto: move on to the next seamPhoto: 3 seams have been filled, the unfilled gaps are the steel wires temporarily holding the bilges in place.Photo: the other side of the hull, duck tape all seamsPhoto: apply thickened epoxy with a small trowelPhoto: apply thickened epoxy, the white powder is a mixture of silica and wood flourPhoto: 3 more seams have been filled (duck tapes removed)Photo: a pair of gloves is a MUST when working with epoxyPhoto: thicken epoxy resin with a mixture of silica & wood flourPhoto: all steel wires cut, the stern and aft places are very messy... cause they will be hidden when the bulkheads are re-fittedPhoto: the hull with all steel wires cut, bulkheads and center mold removed,Photo: prepare to fill empty slots left by the steel wiresPhoto: internal side glueing is completedPhoto: I use different flour mixtures to thicken epoxy, hence the different white, dark colors... It's not very important anyhow since they will all be paintedPhoto: turn the hull over (up side down) and do similar things to the exterior sidePhoto: cover 2 sides of a seam with duck tapePhoto: apply thickened epoxyPhoto: remove the duck tape when epoxy half curesPhoto: 3 seams epoxied, the curves look so beautiful :-)Photo: all 3 pairs of external fillets have been filledPhoto: seen from stern... those beautiful curvesPhoto: those beautiful curves, seen from bow...Photo: external side is completely gluedPhoto: hull glueing is finished...Photo: fairing the fillet curvesPhoto: fairing the internal seamsPhoto: fairing and sanding, lots of dustPhoto: my random orbital sander and some sand papersPhoto: sanding the exteriorPhoto: the 2nd boat plan stitched on the wall, while the first boat has not been finished yet! :-)Photo: finish sanding the exterior sidePhoto: finish sanding the interior sidePhoto: the faired and sanded hullPhoto: epoxy resin is put in the fridge, to cool them down and lengthen the pot time (reaction time)Photo: roll of 6 oz fiberglass fabric (top of the shelf)Photo: cutting the fiberglass fabricPhoto: I can't find fiberglass with width larger than the boat... proceed with the 1m cloth anyhow...Photo: fiberglass fabric in place, prepare to epoxyPhoto: the missing part will be left as is for the interior, and  will be covered by other fiberglass pieces for the exteriorPhoto: the first batch of epoxy appliedPhoto: when the first layer of epoxy half cures, I apply another thin layer on topPhoto: Photo: prepare the fiberglass cloth for exterior side glassingPhoto: first batch of glue appliedPhoto: second batch of glue appliedPhoto: second batch of glue applied, seen from sternPhoto: the cooled down epoxy works perfectly, almost no bubble or void space in cured epoxy!!!Photo: the exterior side fully glassed!Photo: wrap the cloth at 2 endsPhoto: trim the cloth excess with a knifePhoto: epoxy when cures, produces a wax like substance on its surface, a slippery layer that prevents new layer of epoxy, paint... to bond... need to scrub this wax off by sanding, or by cleaning the surface with hot waterPhoto: cleaning the epoxy surface with hot water, to scrub the wax off, then apply another thin layer of epoxy on topPhoto: glassing some missing parts on the internal sidePhoto: the wood cut, prepare for thwarts, gunwales, bottom runners, etc... it's a tropical hard wood, Vietnamese name: "căm xe" (Xylia xylocarpa), a very heavy wood...Photo: the wood has density at about: 1.15 (1150 kg/m3), very heavy and hard, I'm fearing that the wood will add much weight into the boatPhoto: fitting the forward bulkheadPhoto: fitting the aft bulkheadPhoto: aft bulkhead gluedPhoto: forward bulkhead glued