57 Photos - Jan 17, 2010
Photo: Scale. 36" - 33", 5 string, 22 frets. You can see the 12th and the 24th fret lines, but there will be only 22 frets.Photo: Work in progress Dingwall bridge. Note the block part has screw holes in the wrong places :)Photo: Body. The bridge is done, I'll work more on the pickup. There's currently no neck or neck heel, it will be a regular bolt on. The pickup will change, I've made this one just to see how it looks. The body is very SR5-like, although I've made it a tad slimmer.Photo: The bottom, shows the body recess. I've modded the lower horn to help reach the higher positions. It's been done, I've seen it on SuperJs before, if I recall.Photo: The lower horn. Notice the floating fretboard :)
Oh, and some surfaces look bloated. This is a screenshot from Rhino, where I've simplified shading for performance purposes. Everything will be smooth on a final render.Photo: You can see the body profile here. The lower body edges are rounded by 6mm, while the top edges are sloped. It's hard to explain. I think it'll look hot when rendered.. We'll see.Photo: The bridge and the temporary pickup. The real pickup will have the thumb recesses kind-of "float" with the pickup body, it won't have any sharp edges and might follow the fretboard radius.Photo: The headstock. It doesn't have strings yet, I hope they will change how plain it looks.
You can see the B logo. It's of entirely my own design, not a spin-off. I might add some "SR5" like logo to the left of the G string tuning post.. I might also change the carvings a bit. We'll see. It's a long way before finished.Photo: The tuners. You can see that they are rotated toward the body.
The official reason is that it's easier to tune this way.
The unofficial reason is that I designed the headstock with smaller, Y-type clovers. These huge, vintage-style clovers were almost overlapping one another when put parallel. The headstock was done once I found out, and to make a new headstock from scratch just to fix it... I'll live with it.Photo: NUT!Photo: One side of the neck-headstock joint. It's the most complicated part of the whole bass to design. You just don't know where to begin, and end up patching holes until it's decent. I'm going to have to avoid direct shots of the headstock when rendering, as it's really crude when looked from some angles.Photo: The other part of the neck-headstock joint, also showing the headstock carvings. I might change them somewhat.Photo: The neck. It glows yellow because I've selected it, it doesn't really glow. HahPhoto: The neck heel, if it's called like that, I'm not sure. Notice it's a bolt-on but doesn't have any bolts yet.Photo: The first image of the entire bass!! And some bits laying around, but it's the bass nonetheless!
All it needs now is strings, frets, controls, the truss rod, a new pickup, strap pins, the battery compartment, the control cover underneath, fret markers, a jack, pickguard screws, bolts that hold the neck...Photo: The same image but with the contour lines removed. It looks like a toy, but is a full 33"-36" scale bass. The body looks somehow chubby, I guess, but it's made to size.. I don't know. Hopefully it will look like a real bass in the end.Photo: Fretwork done. It's much better than on my last build, but also much more boring. 22 frets, all modeled independently.. I should have designed ~5.Photo: More fretsPhoto: All the frets!Photo: Here's a fretwork in progress image. Should give you an idea of how I've constructed them.Photo: Headstock side of the string. I've modeled the "loose" wounds. I will not model the wounds on the entire strings; the renderer I intend to use will take care of that automatically.
Oh, and you might notice wounds overlap eachother on the tuning post. Not that it matters, fine-tuning it to perfection would take a lot of time. Wounding a string around another is pretty much automatic, but each take lasts for few minutes on my laptop.Photo: The bridge side of the string. It lacks detail (compared to the bridge-side of a real Dingwall string) but I hope it won't matter. I can always go back later if it does.Photo: The bridge side of the strings. They're tapered, and gauged like standard Dingwall SS strings. I've setup the action pretty low, following the radius and with 1mm higher action on the B than on the G string.
Since there's no relief in the neck, it doesn't really matter. After all, no one will play it to notice.Photo: The headstock. Notice I've added a SuperJ inspired cut near the logo.
One I add the truss rod access cavity it won't look so plain anymore. If it still does, I'll add a model logo near the G tuning post.Photo: The entire bass, with strings and frets. I think I've forgotten to un-hide the nut when taking this screenshot :)
Then again, maybe not. I don't know, let's vote.Photo: The new pickup. I think it's much better than the old one, although similar.Photo: It follows the fingerboard radius. I don't think it will be directly noticeable, but should create a smooth gradient over it. Can't wait to do a pickup shot.Photo: On a the entire body! As you can see, the more I go into detail, the more the bass "pops". Especially the pickup and the headstock. The bridge will look better in the end because it's made of different materials, it looks plain now.Photo: The bridge is now screwed to the body. Check the previous images, it was simply floating on the body... Yeah.Photo: It's got a new pickguard and controls! Detail pics followPhoto: Pickguard pic. Notice the side of the pickguard has a slightly darker strip. The pickguard will either be black/white/black or white/black/white.Photo: Switches! These should change either coil of the pickup between series and parallel.Photo: The knobs! These are default Dingwall knobs, which can be found on all Dingwall models apart from the Combustion.
Control layout, neck-to-bridge: volume, 4-pos pickup selector, 3 band pre. The pickup selector is mounted differently from other knobs, and it's the only one with a small hex screw. Like on a real Dingwall :DPhoto: Strap pin. Dunlop, I guess, but I'm not sure.Photo: Strap pin 2Photo: These hold the body and the neck together. 1:1 Dingwall.
Notice they use a narrow hex head. That's to 1) increase the area where the screw touches the body and to 2) make overturning hardly possible, as there's less force transferred. With those two together, there's a strong joint that does just enough pressure and not more. Or something like that, my English is failing me right now. Kudos to Sheldon Dingwall.Photo: The magnetic battery compartment, again Dingwall-like.Photo: Here be electronicsPhoto: The back of the bass. Looking good, although soapy. Can't wait to do the rendering. You can see these are all just finishing touches, and only a few more remain.Photo: Neutrik locking jack.Photo: Side markersPhoto: The whole bass finally! Without anything on the fretboardPhoto: Standard dots, can be seen on all MusicMan bassesPhoto: Blocks. I don't think they look good. Oh well.Photo: Dingwall style dots. These might be the most useful. Combined with side markers, they show which fret you play from each side of the fretboard - not needed on parallel fretted basses, but handy with fanned.Photo: Lee Sklar bars with a B on the 12th fret. Yeah! See them at http://www.dingwallguitars.com/forum/files/fullrange_z3_full_shot_312.jpgPhoto: Truss rod access. Shows strings pretty nicely as well.Photo: I've recreated the headstock from scratch. It looks similar but it's much simpler, there are no sharp edges etc. Compare it to the old headstock, and you'll see the slight differences, mostly around the neck-headstock joint. I'll also change the tuners a bit.Photo: Neck-headstock joint. One smooth surface.Photo: There are no sharp edges. It looks over-smooth now, but it be look good when rendered. I hope :)Photo: The first render! The most boring one too.
See the full res image at http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/346/051render01full.jpgPhoto: Full res at http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5506/052render02bodycloseup.jpgPhoto: I really like the way this turned out. You can see the bottom of the tuners in the reflection.
Full res at http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/8402/053render03headstock.jpgPhoto: Full res at http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3865/054render04controls.jpgPhoto: Photo: Photo: