47 Photos - Mar 15, 2015
Photo: After last year's hull repairs, the boat yard informed us that any further bottom paint removal would require tenting the hull. Thus our bottom job began by laying out 6 mil plastic sheeting under Pilgrim.Photo: Solid gray areas are already stripped, inspected, repaired, and coated in new barrier coat.  Our goal with this round of bottom work is to end up with the entire hull, below the waterline, repaired and sealed in new barrier coat.Photo: We used lighter weight and less expensive 4 mil plastic sheeting for the sides of the tent.  The upper edge is tapped to the hull above the water line.  The lower edge is rolled inward together with the base and then weighted down with scrap lumber.Photo: I placed couple standard home A/C filters in the sides of the tent to limit pressure differentials caused by breezes from causing the tent to fail.Photo: Looking forward along starboard inside tent prior removing paint.Photo: We cut a 18" X 36" access hole in the tent amidships on starboardPhoto: After re-reinforcing the corners of the access hole with duct tape,  We sealed the access hole in tent with flap of plastic sheeting.Photo: looking forward along center line prior to removing bottom paint.Photo: looking aft along center line prior to removing bottom paint.Photo: Looking aft along starboard inside tent prior to removing bottom paint.Photo: At the suggestion of a local friend I sharpened a stiff scraper to a knife-like edge and used the tool to remove the majority of bottom paint from Pilgrim.  This system worked very well as long as I kept a good edge on the scraper.Photo: Taking a break from removing bottom paint.In addition to the head sock and disposable coveralls, with hood, seen here, I wore a 3M full face mask with particle filters and heavy plastic gloves.Despite the cooler temps in March, my shirt is wetted out with sweat.  Would not want to be working in the tent mid-summer!Photo: The tent walls stained blue as Pilgrim's bottom paint is removed.Photo: Tent removed from Pilgrim's bare hull.  Note rudder leaning against engine in foreground. Definite sign of much work ahead when your rudder is leaning against your engine behind your boat on the hard.Photo: Looking down center line from bow.  All bottom paint removed.Photo: small blisters discovered on port bow.Photo: Two large blisters discovered along the port side of the keel.Photo: String of small blisters discovered along the starboard side just below the waterline.Photo: Places on the hull that require attention were tagged with "F" or "G".F - indicated areas that were ground out and required filling with thickened epoxy.G - indicated areas that require fiberglass mat.  The areas labeled "G" were also given a number to identify which sections of cloth fit the area.Photo: Cutting and labeling 1708 cloth in preparation for filling the deepest blisters.  The cut cloth was placed in ziplock bags labeled to identify the blister for which they were cut.Photo: Blisters along port bow after one round of glass and /or filler.Photo: Blisters along the port side hull and keel after one round of cloth and / or filler.Photo: Blisters along port hull and keel after grinding down first round of glass and / or filler.Photo: Large blister on port, lower keel after grinding down an application of 3 layers of 1708 cloth.Photo: first round of fairing on port midship blister repairsPhoto: Port, midship hull after sanding down round one of fairingPhoto: after two rounds of fairing, barrier coat was applied to port keel blister repairsPhoto: Blisters along starboard waterline after one round of glass and /or filler.Photo: Blisters along starboard waterline after grinding down initial round of glass and / or filler.Photo: round one of fairing on starboard, waterline blister repairsPhoto: Starboard waterline blister repairs after 2 rounds of fairing.Photo: Close-up of repaired blisters on starboard waterline after two rounds of fairing.Photo: close up of same area as previous photo with barrier coat appliedPhoto: barrier coat applied to starboard waterline blister reparis.Photo: Hull after April 2015 round of blister repairsPhoto: hull after April 2015 round of blister repairs.Photo: Portion of keel yet to be refinished due to blockingPhoto: Portion of keel yet to be refinished due to blockingPhoto: Filling leading keel edge with 1708 clothPhoto: filling and fairing base of keelPhoto: Filling leading keel edge with 1708 cloth and thickened epoxyPhoto: fairing leading edge of lower keelPhoto: Leading edge of lower keel filled, faired, and barrier coated.Photo: Keel filling and fairing complete.  Now applying barrier coating.Photo: Hanging in slings while repairing and fairing base of keel.  The single block has a slight amount of weigh on it to keep the boat from swinging while hanging in the slings.Photo: Starboard keel section faired and barrier coated.Photo: Port hull faired and barrier coated.