53 Photos - Oct 23, 2014
Photo: Removing Pilgrim's stainless rub rails revealed a nasty, intermittent gap between the to pieces of teak that comprise the M382 cap rail.Photo: Port side rub rail prior to removalPhoto: Port side aft rub rail removed to reveal gap in cap rail joint.Photo: Port aft cap rail after using a circular saw to clean out and open up the failed seamPhoto: failed port aft caprail seam after a couple passes of the circular saw set to 1/4" depthPhoto: Pilgrim's port aft caprail.Photo: in a few areas the seam was intact, but cracks existed between screw holes.Photo: seam ready for splines at the port bowPhoto: cleaning up the failed cap rail seam at the starboard bow.Photo: I used a table saw to  cut the 1/4" square splines from pieces of scrap teakPhoto: Anne fitting splines in cap rail seamPhoto: fitting teak splines in the cap rail jointPhoto: fitting teak splines along the caprail jointPhoto: Anne wipping down seam in spline with acetone in preparation for epoxyPhoto: filling the seam with thickened epoxy followed by the teak splinesPhoto: The splines are set in epoxy thickened with milled fibers and cabosil.  The milled fibers provide a crosslinked bond that will better retain the screws when we remount the rubrail.  The cabosil serves as a thickening agent in the epoxy mixture.Photo: freshly applied epoxy seals the splines along the port sidePhoto: sanding the repair along the starboard bowPhoto: A close-up of the completed repair.  Can you spot the butt joint of two splines in the image?Photo: due to irularities in the cap rail some areas retain more epoxy after sanding. fortunately this will be hidden when the stainless steel rub rail is re-appliedPhoto: rather than attempting to match the radius at ends of the caprail, I epoxied the splines in place with excess extending beyond the cap railPhoto: once the epoxy cured and cut the excess spine to length and sanded down to match the cap rail radius.Photo: port side bow with repairs to side joint completePhoto: Sanding down the portside bow.  Along the full length of the cap rails we drilled out and filled all fastener holes.Photo: sanding down the seam repair along the portsidePhoto: using dremel tool to open up small cracks in preparation for filling with epoxyPhoto: A closer inspection of the caprail revealed water intrusion and cracks along the mounting hardware for the bow pulpit and anchor roller.Photo: Round two filling areas we missed on our first round of repairs.  While sanding I used duct tape to mark the areas the required another round of epoxy.  Not sure how we missed this large gap.Photo: Using the orbital sander and circular saw to expose caprail damage on the upper surface at the bowPhoto: discovered cracks and rot radiating aft from holes for the 1/2" bolts on the anchor roller on starboardPhoto: Exposing rot along the starboard caprail.  Yikes, i hope this does not extend very far aft.Photo: Starboard, bow caprail with rot removed,  The final excavation was approximately 23" long by 1-3/8" widePhoto: Rot on port bow at site where bow pulpit base attached to caprail.  I ended up removing a 12" long by 1-1/8" section from this site.Photo: Excavating rotten sections of cap rail at bow.  Best I can discern the water intrusion was from anchor roller and bow pulpit mounting bolts.Photo: Bow masked off in preparation for setting large splines at bow in place with thickened epoxy.Photo: Large splines set in epoxy on caprail.  For this area I used a combination of west 407 filler and cabosil.  The 407 is a low density filler that is brown in color.  Since any fasteners I add to this site will be thru-bolted the strength of the bond is less critical.  The brow color of the 407 will hopefully provide a more cosmetic repair.Photo: port, forward repair after sanding down excess wood and epoxy.Photo: Pointing out an area than requires additional epoxy on the starboard repairPhoto: Grey raised areas on port mark the location of the bow cleat and pulpit base.  These also have signs of water intrusion.Photo: Port caprail at site of bow cleat (right) and bow pulpit base (left).  Removing screws from the caprail prior to using the circular saw to excavate additional rotten wood.Photo: area after using circular sawPhoto: Port, aft repairs - After the initial cuts with circular saw, I used a chisle to match the hole with the teak spline.Photo: Port, aft repairs - After the initial cuts with circular saw, I used a chisle to match the hole with the teak spline.Photo: port, aft caprail repair after sanding down the excess wood and epoxy.Photo: Preparing to epoxy aft splines into place on caprail.Photo: The starboard, aft repair is the only one where the rot did not extend the full thickness of the caprail.  I went down about 1/4" into the caprail on this repair.Photo: starboard, aft spline set in epoxyPhoto: starboard, aft repair after sanding down excess wood and epoxyPhoto: starboard caprail repairs.Photo: port side caprail repairsPhoto: All four rotten areas at bow repaired with teak splines.Photo: Began rub rail installation with two stern sections.Photo: installing rub rail with Anne