21 Photos - Apr 9, 2013
Photo: The broken hatch in place.Photo: Thankfully the screws retreated easlily.  I used a heat gun, scraper, and hammer to free the hatch from the 5200.tgePhoto: After cleaning up the residual 5200 and sanding the area, I used clear plastic sheeting to create a template of the OD & ID of the opening.Photo: Transferring the OD dimensions to Sea TeakPhoto: transfering the ID dimensions to a piece of teak.Photo: test fitting the teak filler.Photo: once the teak plug fit the void I taped it in place from below and used thicken epoxy to glue it in place.Photo: The head vent wood plug from belowPhoto: fairing the hatch plug on the topsidesPhoto: Filler on deck after sanding it down and 1st top coat on former head hatchPhoto: I used #8 coutersink wood screws to attach the sea teak top plate and 4200 as bedding.Photo: the wood screws are set in with butyl-tape to prevent water intrusionPhoto: hatch plug complete now time to cut a new holePhoto: the new vent fan requires a 4 3/4" circular hole.  First step locate the center and drill s 3/16" hole.Photo: I taped over the top to prevent any unwanted marks or scratches.  Inserted an awl in the center hole and used string and a sharpie to pattern the hole.Photo: Looking up through the hole from below.  The interior sleeve for the vent fan is installed.Photo: back on the topsides.  The base plate for the fan attaches wit three #10 screws.  It is bedded with Lexel & a neoprene gasget.Photo: close up of installed fan.Photo: vent fan on freshly painted cabin trunk.Photo: the view from below.Photo: forward cabin top paint job completed