33 Photos - Aug 1, 2011
Photo: my mobius saori woven cowl i wanted to weave anotherPhoto: yarns for warping
so lets talk how long etc  your warp need to be.
1]   32"  for a 12" wide scarf 27" for 8" wide scarf of  un woven  warp "fringe" in the beginning 25"+  ( allowing  for tie on waste so 32" TOTAL)
2] 65" I WEAVE 75" BUT YOU CAN DECIDE any where from  65" -75"  your warp will need to be longer for  75 " long cowl.
3]  leave 32" at the end unwoven and allowing for loom waste.
so now we have 
32+ 65+32 =129" so 129" warp length. unless you want to weave longer than 65" then add to the warp length above.
now this is using a floor loom, and allowing for some floor looms other than saori which has more loom waste.
you do not want to skimp or else you will not have enough fringe, which when as weft  FOR THE CROSS OVER really takes up quite a bit warp as well.
your width and  reed epi set is up to you.Photo: on the warping boardPhoto: warp wound
if you have a rigid heddle loom your loom waste will be less than on a floor loom. you can wind direct warp just leave PLENTY of warp, i like a minimum of 125" .
for your first cowl 8-12" wide range is best. use varied warps for  more color and texture interest.Photo: leaving a MINIMUM of 25" " fringe" ( UNWOVEN WARP ) in the beginning  then weave at least 60", i do 75",BUT YOU CAN DOUBLE YOUR COWL AROUND YOUR NECK, SO  if you do that you will need to add to your warp length when you warp   ,THIS IS THE measurement of the   LENGTH YOU WEAVE   NOT  including the unwoven fringe you did not weave in the beginning.Photo: untie from the front rod  the unwoven fringe at the begging from your front rod after you have woven your 60- 75"  you can see the LONG part you leave unwoven in the beginning in this photo.Photo: fold the 60"- 75" or more woven part up towards the reed  but if you want a mobius twist on   your cowl twist it once, then lay the fringes up towards the reed.Photo: ok this is the hard to explain part.
every bodies looms are different, the idea here is to catch the woven part that is folded over in the cloth beam. YES it will work IF you have woven a long enough part so that you aren't skimping on length.
  catch the folded woven scarf part in the cloth beam and roll to tension. this may take a few tries to get the tension straight and evenPhoto: you fold the scarf in half  and insert in in the cloth beam, DO NOT WRAP IT UNFOLDED AROUND THE BEAM OTHER WISE YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT YOUR COWL IN HALF TO GET OFF YOUR LOOM! ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS?
this is important to catch the woven part must be folded 
ready to weave in the fringe as weft now

i will take some better photos of the "catch " later and add them .Photo: i am inserting new photos of my current cowl in here to better illustrate what i call  the 'TWIST, FLIP, AND CATCH'
here is the 75" woven and untied from the the front lashing rod.Photo: here i twisted it over once.Photo: then i folded the weaving together, the twist is on the bottom.Photo: PLEASE NOTE:  the weaving is not opened and wrapped around the breast beam here. it is folded  together laying on TOP on the breast . you need to allow for the top layer with the fringe on it to extend even higher up toward the reed so that you have plenty of room to weave the fringe as weft in with plenty of play.Photo: let the place the folded together weaving  hang together over the front beam but under the hanging lashing cords and rod.Photo: start rolling the cloth beam to tension. the rod will catch the folded  together weaving and the whole piece will tension up .....Photo: ......like this now you can start to weave in the fringe as weft. CAUTION if you do not leave enough play length  in the end it will be to difficult to weave in the fringe.
if that happens undo it , go back to the folding and re fold off setting the  fold with more length on the top fringe part. you will  understand it and get it when you actually try it.Photo: PLEASE NOTICE 
REPEAT NOTICE!
see how the part of the weaving with the fringe to be woven in IS COMING UP OVER THE FRONT OF THE BEAM, you must do this or else..........Photo: DO NOT  do this
bringing the weaving with the fringe end  up from BEHIND  UNDER no  . .......  but do this .....Photo: YES bring it OVER IN FRONT !!!!!
see photo right.
if you goof you will end up with this.......Photo: .........your cowl like this is  woven around your loom !!! and then the only recourse you will have is to cut it off or take out the fringe woven as weft and reweave it.Photo: ok back to the original cowl ...... this is what it looks like
you take every loose end and weave it in like regular wefts  by reaching through the sheds one at a time.Photo: reaching through to weave the weft "fringes"Photo: do not pull to tightlyPhoto: looking at about 1/2 fringe woven in leave it be after weft insertion.Photo: one by one take the fringe place it in shed beat, change your shed, repeat do not pull to hard on the fringe as you weave it in, relax. sometimes i mix it up i weave in two or three and then go back to one at a time again.Photo: Photo: all fringe woven in as weft time to take it off the loom. EITHER CUT OR UNTIE FROM YOUR BACK ROD NOW.Photo: another  cowl with twisted fringes and  hand washed. this is  doubled  around the  neck twice .
peaceful weaving
http://www.saorisantacruz.com
http://centeringwithfiber.blogspot.com

 these images and info are not to be used or copied 
Saori  loom is a registered trade mark of Sakaiselki Sangyo Co LTD  ⓒ of jill nickolene sanders 20011 - 2017 (Note: I retain copyrights to all designs and images of my work, regardless of ownership photos are not for re use .)Photo: here is a students weaving, twist ,fold leave on TOP tuck the folded half in the rod and advance .Photo: student weaving her warp as weftPhoto: students lovely saori mobious  scarf off the loomPhoto: now twist your fringes soak and  line dry and wear!Photo: my students amazing first cowl .
these images and info are not to be used or copied 
Saori  loom is a registered trade mark of Sakaiselki Sangyo Co LTD  ⓒ of jill nickolene sanders 20011 - 2017 (Note: I retain copyrights to all designs and images of my work, regardless of ownership photos are not for re use .)