399 Photos - Oct 23, 2012
Photo: Just a dusting of snow last night.Photo: Photo: Started a custom for another builder.  We are doing the foundation, framing and siding.Photo: Not the easiest to set up.  The dog-leg (angle not yet known) made it tough.  We were provided with a drawing showing diagonals to corners of the stemwalls.  This helped quite a bit, but a lot of work.Photo: Had the forklift down the road on a framing job for the same builder.  So at least we'll have that for moving around panels.Photo: Time stamp is off by an hour.  We made it to 2:15.  It was 90° and too hot, so we rolled up and went and jumped in the lakePhoto: All formed, bar tied and raised and the verts tied in.  In the morning we'll form all the expanded footings.  Mud is at 6:30 Wednesday.Photo: At this point in forming we have about 16 hours each.  I think we are making good progress, but that is because of a secret weapon.Photo: Finally done.  Spent the morning expanding footings for point loads and tieing bar.Photo: Almost no need to cut rebar.  The supplier gave us all the lengths (up to 30') precut and a plan with all the labeling.Photo: We have to tie in the verts and there is just no nice way to do it.  Kyle just dug out under a hold down bolt.  The grids in the expanded footings don't look good now, but we tied them up and as the concrete is placed in the lower half of the footing, we'll cut it loose and set it in place.Photo: Photo: This pad is for the "Russian fireplace".  It will have CMU blocks on it later and then real (heavy) rock from the floor up to the roof I believe.  A lot of weight.  This pad is 6'x7' long.  Same deal, we'll cut it loose after the lower half is filled with concrete.Photo: Oh how we love this tool!!!Photo: Photo: Photo: Project manager asked how we got such consistent ties and don't they look pretty!Photo: So we showed him and let him try it.Photo: A nice little bow.Photo: Photo: Photo: Probably 30 seconds to tie all that, and no carpal tunnelPhoto: Photo: $4.85 / rollPhoto: Had to start at 6 this am.  The only slot we could get the pump.  30 yardsPhoto: Photo: Trucks were 10 yard loads.  I figured 3 trucks + cleanupPhoto: After we pour walls, there will be a 4" rat slab poured in the crawl.  The foundation will be waterproofed and ventilation will be provided by timed exhuast.Photo: Time stamp is still off.  We snapped lines, set clips, and stripped it by about 12:40.  Form walls tomorrow and MondayPhoto: Photo: Ended up being 30 yards on the nose.  Truck was rattling as the last of the footings were filled.Photo: Be a lot of pony walls in the crawl.Photo: Mud tomorrow at 11.  We'll straighten and brace the long walls straight and then 32 yds of concrete.Photo: Used every panel we have.  We had to borrow 10 from a friend.  About 450 lineal feet of 4' walls!Photo: So pump didn't show up when I had is scheduled.  My fault or pump guy, he thought 1pm.  So I had 2 10 yard trucks sitting and no pump.  Called batch plant, got a referral and had ABC Pump Co show up and these guys did amazing.  Poured out 30 yards and no problems.Photo: Took 11 hours, but it is stripped!  That was a long hard day.  The front and back porch areas were decided to be poured lower than the house.  We couldn't reach in to trowel, so we floated it.  That's why that looks rough.Photo: Photo: 70' long wall and it turned out really straight.Photo: This wasn't a hard one to form up, but for 2 guys (3 to strip), this one beat us up pretty good.  We'll start framing in 2-3 weeks after the site work is done.Photo: Time to start framing!Photo: We had to pour all of this into the walls, and it actually turned out well.Photo: Photo: Just the last few Simpson MASA straps needing to be nailed on.  I think it might almost be faster to hand nail them.Photo: Entire crawl has a rat slab and will be sealed.  Instead of girders and posts, its all pony walls.  This was is a shear wall.Photo: Photo: Photo: strap will grab the the wall.Photo: Ready to roll joists.  Beto is helping us for the day.Photo: Photo: Instead of getting 30 & 60° hangers, the designer had us build pony walls and then block the joists.Photo: Photo: Way too much blocking.Photo: Instead of buying 30 and 60° hangers, we framed pony walls and blocked them.  I'm not sure if that is any less expensive than hanger.Photo: Blocking over all intermediate bearing and then for a shear wall.Photo: Photo: Vycor Deck Protector under the hangers.  And then the builder had us wrap in the ends of the joists in tape to eliminate squeaks.  I've never heard of this, but we'll see how it works.Photo: Photo: Plywood subfloor screwed and glued.  We were supposed to have access all the way around this house, but they decided to get the septic done while we have dry weather.Photo: The owner wants this house up as quickly as possible, so he elected to have the lumberyard build the walls in panels.Photo: They went very very well.  We got all the outside walls up and framed in the little ones that didn't come prebuilt and got the inside walls framed in 2 days.Photo: Strap to the post w/holddown in the crawl.Photo: Photo: Texting no one and sawing by hand, what a multi-tasker!!Photo: Photo: Instead of cutting 45 on the porch beams, we notched the outside beam for the intersecting beam.Photo: 24" floor trusses were supposed to be delivered between 10 and 12, they came at 6.  We were long gone by then.Photo: Photo: Of course they came when it was dark, so they dropped most of them on the ground ;-(Photo: Had to trim the porch beams to length in the air after running a string down the walls to keep it dead straight.Photo: Photo: I should have gotten a panarama shot.  We had stacks of trusses all the way around the side behind the forklift in a large semi-circle.Photo: 28' x 24" deep trusses.  2' ocPhoto: Rained at first, then the sun made an appearance.  What a gorgeous view!!Photo: Thank goodness for a forklift.  Since most of the trusses were out in the yard, we had to bring them all in.Photo: Some of the rim is pre-made.  There is a 32' piece leaning against the garage.Photo: Photo: Couple of hours left and its ready for sheathing with 1 1/8" plyPhoto: Photo: Photo: 4 ply girder that will carry a point load from the ridge.  The floor was designed for 18" trusses, but had to be bumped to 24" to carry the roof load.  The truss company set it backwards, so we had to strap it, lift it and spin it.  It was one heavy truss!Photo: Photo: Finished the floor finally.  The angled section was a bear because we had to adjust layout to make the joists work.  We also had a lot of fill in where we should have had trussesPhoto: Photo: Open spot to the right of the entry for an elevator, and to the right of that, the stairway.  Sheathing tomorrow, rain tomorrow evening.Photo: Photo: Ready to start sheathing.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: We ended up 18 sheets short.  I did most of the packing today and I am feeling it.  1 1/8" plywood is not light and I think we had 3 units of it.Photo: The wind blew hard enough to mostly dry out the deck.  So we were able to snap out our rakewallPhoto: Photo: 14" I-Joist rafters will land on top of the  6 3/4" x15" GLBPhoto: Miss timed . . I was coming down, Kyle was going upPhoto: Brief but hard rain hit us.Photo: Photo: We will sheathe it and put the overhangs on in the  morning.Photo: 24" overhangs.  We braced each end square (and a little past for settling as the wall goes up) and ran a string.Photo: Photo: Photo: smily facePhoto: Pouring rain out.  We set up the saw in the garage (semi less wet) to start cutting bevelled plates for the I-joists to land on.Photo: 2 strips out of each 2x.  Block in the foreground was our trial and error block.Photo: Photo: Started off the day, plumbing & aligning, then nailing down the beveled stripsPhoto: Super Anchor Deluxe Harness with tool bags.  (trying out different harnesses)Photo: Photo: Photo: Gang cutting all the 14" I-Joists for the shed dormers.Photo: Sharp chain and I-joists make for clean and fast cuts.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Cutting these at a 4-12 slope.Photo: 24 Joists took about 30 minutes total to rack and cut.  No birdsmouths since they land on beveled strips at the ridge and plate.Photo: When we set the saw, I set it just a degree less than 4-12.  They meet dead tight.Photo: LVL rafters make the gable rafters on the dormers so we can notch for look outs.Photo: Doesn't look like a lot yet, but those were 22' long.  Monday we'll be setting 27' rafters.Photo: Photo: Set the dormer rafters on the left, then cut the 27' rafters and set them, then took lunch.Photo: We ripped some 3/4 for webstiffeners.Photo: Photo: This dormer needed to be cut "up" for headroom at the stairs.  To get tall enough windows, the topplate is a 6x6Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: web stiffeners, squash blocks, and blocking.  Oh how I love the number of pieces it takes to frame with I-JoistsPhoto: We cut in 2x6 lookouts to hold the flyrafter.  It was braced square to the wall before lifting, then we install look outs as we go for overhangs this large (24")Photo: Photo: blocking at the ridge.Photo: 4-12 shed dormer.  Lookouts every 4' (2x6)Photo: Photo: Photo: Kyle likes to snap 'candid' shots, which usually make me look wierd.Photo: X-Line by Super Anchor.  It is a life line and air hose in one and is a genius product.Photo: Photo: Adding tailsPhoto: We use these Irwin super clamps all the time.  Here it is to pull the look out down flush with the rafter.Photo: Ridge blocking with vent holesPhoto: Spent part of the afternoon framing up the rakes on the shed dormers.Photo: This one, we installed the sheathing first, nailed to the LVL gable rafter, and then nailed to the common rafter.  Then we installed the studs and then nailed them from the outside.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: 10 second jig to cut a few rafters.Photo: Words fail . . . .Photo: (1st jig too small, laying on the ground) Cutting with the Big Foot since these joists have 2 1/2" flangeesPhoto: YoYo for fall restraint.Photo: Photo: Photo: Plank is 20' off the floor, so fall protection a must.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: It was cold and scary this morning, but no worries, Kyle is tied off.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Today I'm trying out the Werner Blue Armor harness.  The lifeline is a 30' deluxe line with prussic knot by Super Anchor.Photo: This side took about a day too long because we couldn't use the forklift.  Everything was difficult, from getting that 5 1/2x15x24' glulam in place, to setting the ridge. 24" overhangs on the gable were tough too.Photo: Photo: Rained 4 1/2" yesterday!  Starting the garage rakewall.Photo: Top angled lines are the top plates, center lines represents the 6 3/4" wide post for the 6 3/4"x24" GLBPhoto: We lined up the bottom plate on a subfloor seam, then squared and snapped out the perimeter.  I'm laying out the studs (all to the long point).Photo: When it is wet and we can't snap out the studs, I like to frame the perimeter of the wall first, then use the middle studs to get stud and window layout.Photo: Photo: Photo: We both hook the same point, and I call out the layout measurements.  Kyle will mark the rake plate, then we'll measure the studs in.  Just make sure everything is straight.Photo: Photo: Started pouring on us.Photo: Notch in the plates for the ridge.Photo: Blocking for the sheathing seam.Photo: scrap pile for the wall.Photo: bad timing again.Photo: Sheathing and routing.  No measuring.Photo: nailing on the overhangs.Photo: Sun came out for a few minutes and the wind whipped up.Photo: Photo: Photo: Scribing a line for the rake 1x3 so it'll stay straight and cover the edge of the roof sheathing.Photo: Photo: Bracing the overhangs.Photo: Coldish and frosty today.Photo: The plan is to lift the wall where its at, move into position, and then sky it in and twist it and drop it right where it needs to be.Photo: After 2 attempts we got it.  We needed to be on one fork to twist the wall into position.  Otherwise it went right in.  The home owner and neighbor helped us.  (I was a little nervous)Photo: King post is 4 2x6 with 1x between, plus gusset studs.Photo: 6 3/4"x24" ridge clear spanning the garage 32'Photo: Two passes with the Big Foot.Photo: Much easier to cut it vetically instead of rolling the beam.Photo: Photo: Photo: My trusty handsawPhoto: Photo: Photo: We ripped 2x6 in half with the 45° bevel for the rafters.Photo: Photo: Photo: 2 straps placed at 1/3, and one more strap as a tag line for the neighbor to hold onto.Photo: Photo: Photo: Beam set, 2 4 1/2" Head Lok screws (Fasten Master) tieing the ridge into the gable wall (in addition to nails)Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Frosty start today.Photo: Photo: Racked rafters for the 12-12 slope.Photo: Here we goPhoto: Photo: Photo: Almost a 20" long cut!Photo: Photo: Photo: I timed it, it took 30 minutes to rack and cut.Photo: On to the 4-12 dormers.  Installing web stiffeners.Photo: Shooting on the hangers.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: We first sheathed from the LVL rafter up above down to the 12-12 rafter below, then filled in the framing.Photo: Photo: Facing from the rakewall back through the house.Photo: Amazing how many pieces go into prepping a rafter for installation.  It took 30 minutes to cut all the rafters with the chainsaw and guide, but probaly 10 minutes a rafter in webstiffeners and hangers ;-)Photo: But is sure looks good!Photo: Photo: Just poured rain on us for the first 4 hours.  Started the day prepping the garage for sheathing and framing the 12-12 roof under the windows.Photo: The fascia line is dead straight and it planes out perfectly with the 8-12 side.  Given the rain and such, I'm surprised..  Normally we have to fudge a little to get the fascia lines to match on unequal pitched roofs.Photo: We had to rip a few more 45° strips.  I had to get a shot of the mound of sawdust.  That is from ripping bevelled plates and web-stiffeners.  We keep forgetting the fence at the shop :-)Photo: This is the SU drawing I did to make sure I figured the plate rise correctly.Photo: This is a very rough and quick drawing to make sure I understood what I was dealing with.Photo: Showing the plan anglePhoto: How the valley would come together.Photo: Toward the end of the day we planed in the valley.  My goal this whole time has been to plane the undersides of the valley for a crisp drywall line.  The tops will offset then because of the unequal slopes, off angle corner (120°) and equal overhangs.Photo: The Ledger Lok screw at the top will hide under the drywall.  The 2x6 under the two ridges is there to "hold" the ridge on the right while we lifted it.  Plan is for exposed ridges.  But decorative hardware would look really cool there.Photo: I'm cheating on this one and not following the math.  We planed with a string the underside of the 8-12 roof over to the 12-12 ridge.  The mark on the lower ridge is where the planes met, then I just pulled the string thru.Photo: Since the undersides (and tops for that matter) are bevelled, we can set the valleys right on the bevelled strips on the ridge.Photo: Kyle is bevelling the valleys, while I am "dragging the shutter"Photo: No that is not a pace-maker in my pocket (its a smarter than me phone (pun intended, get it, "Mephone" vs "Iphone")Photo: So the tops and bottoms of both valleys needs a backing bevel.  The underside provides a nice surface for the drywall, the upper for the sheathing.  Kyle claims he is straighter than a rip guide  . . . . weellllPhoto: The string represents the center of the underside of the valley.  Tomorrow we'll screw them together, set them and frame them.  I can't wait to cut the 8-12 jacks!!Photo: First thing, screw the LVLs together.  The 18" LVL was cupped, so the srews are a necessity.Photo: Each LVL was ripped to the same depth as the cut depth of the I-Joist rafters and backed top and bottom.  There is a 3" difference in height due to the difference between slopes.Photo: Photo: It seems like everytime we have long LVLs they have giant bows in them.Photo: Photo: Valley sits on both ridges.  By ripping the backing bevel into the valley, no need for a birdsmouth.  I put a 6" Timber Lok "toe-screw" through the valley into each ridge.Photo: 6" Timber Lok through the valley into the plate.Photo: I pushed as hard as I could and we wedged 2x between the wall and the LVL to take the bow out.  But we just couldn't get it out at the top.  No worries, we'll take care of that with the sheathing.Photo: Photo: Thank you Sim for your help!!  Big Foot easily made the cheek cut.Photo: Photo: 1 1/8" plywood web stiffeners.  We saved the scrap from the floor, came in very handy on this roof.  And we've used up most of the scrap.Photo: We'll add 2 Simpson LS50's with SDS screws when we are doing pickup work.Photo: Now it's time for the 8-12 jacks.  The bevel on this works out to be about 11° off vertical.  Only way I could think to cut it is with a chainsaw ;-)Photo: Here we go!Photo: Photo: Photo: I had no idea how this was going to work.  I eased into the top and then worked my way down follwing the sidecut mark.  Once the bar was buried, the bevel was easy to follow.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Nearly 14" long!Photo: Photo: Focus way off (or I need new glasses).  This is showing the severe angle.  I bet in my life I never do this again.Photo: Photo: Kyle's turn.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Pretty tight!  At this steep an angle, being off at all will show.Photo: Photo: Photo: It poured on us all day.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: This pile is from the two cuts!Photo: Photo: Photo: Roof planes and water.Photo: I used Sim's angles and the sheating cut was perfect!Photo: 8-12 side had to be sheathed first, then 12-12 lays over.Photo: Photo: Photo: We were soaked. We gutted it out the whole day and finally about 2:45 it was time to go.Photo: We finished the garage 12-12 sheathing then finished the front and rear dormer on the garage.  Easily it takes twice as long without the platform.  It can be difficult to quantify what the machine saves.  But two of the same task, its easy to just time it.Photo: Yesterday we took down these rafters.  It was a lot of nails to pull!Photo: Set the beams on wall jacks and tacked 2x6 to the opposite side to keep the beam from falling foward as it went up.Photo: 2x4's tacked to the beam to keep from moving.Photo: Once it was up a certain distance, we tacked braces to keep the 2x4's from bowing.Photo: Since the wall was built and sheathed, we just planed the roof over to the LVL, snapped a line and cut it.Photo: Kyle  nailing look outs.  I wish all roofs were 4-12 ;-)Photo: It is quite amazing how much framing has gone into the garage area.  I need to tally the amount of nails we've shot at the end of this job.Photo: I also need to bring out my wide angle lensPhoto: Sheathing the 12-12 overlay roof.Photo: Getting started on Funk CityPhoto: The rake wall there was a little tricky.  We put in the tallest stud, then the plate, then filled in the studs.  Compound miters on them.  Rafter Tools came in handy.  The off center spacing to allow for a skylight.Photo: This was a very tricky spot to frame.  The jack nailed to the ridge, had a 60° bevel, then the others had their own bevels (plate angle not 90)Photo: It just gets trippy because even though the wall planes, it throws off the eye looking at everything.Photo: Photo: I really have been dreading this section.  It was very laborious, but I think it came out really clean.Photo: RoofersPhoto: I have no idea how to bring the 8-12 down onto the 12-12 overlay.  So I just made a plywood 8-12.  This let me establish one mark for the valley, then I did the same thing at the gable and snapped thru.  I still don't know a smart way to do this, but this was at least quick and accurate.Photo: There is part of the "bottom plate" for the gable wall.  Then the valley sleeper.Photo: HDR of the lake and skyPhoto: Valley sheathed.  Bottom piece left off for the roofer.Photo: HDR of the lake and sky.Photo: Roofer was kind enough to take the photo ;-)Photo: OuttakePhoto: Roofer getting in on the posing ;-)Photo: Photo: Photo: Last item on the roof is the front porch.Photo: Photo: I calculated and precut the valley sleepers, ridge and rafters.  And it worked!Photo: Photo: Installing LVL blocking for the hanger that will hold the porch glulamPhoto: Photo: Using the palm router to round over all the edges on the glulams to match the factory.Photo: We first layed out the beams on the saw horses, and drilled them out, then clamped them to the post.  Then we drilled from each side to make a straight hole.Photo: Oh yeah, and it was raining againPhoto: HD threaded rod cut offPhoto: Once again, these clamps were useful.  I love those things!Photo: Squaring up the Big BoyPhoto: Photo: Photo: Routing the strutsPhoto: Hey the holes lined up!Photo: And those clamps again!Photo: Struts and King Post (Not Kyle's band's name (he has no band))Photo: gussets are temporaryPhoto: Photo: Photo: We are done with the roof!!  It came out at about 75 squares.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: 10° bevel on the 8-12 side.Photo: Photo: Welcome to Funk City!  This is by far the craziest framing I've ever worked on!  Off angle corners, 2 pitches and then blend to make the drywall plane out.  But we did it! ;-)  A great framing challenge and I was glad to use Rafter Tools.Photo: Basically we had to frame a fake hip with the right bevels for each pitch.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: OopsPhoto: under side of the "hip"Photo: The most common question I'm never asked, is "how many tools does it take to frame a house?"Photo: Photo: bonus roomPhoto: Photo: man cavePhoto: stairs to the left, then attic for furnace and elevator shaft to the left next to the stairs.Photo: overlooking the living roomPhoto: Photo: Looking back at the bathroom and stairs.  Skylight adds a lot of light.Photo: Photo: a view of "funk city".  But the angles came out right.Photo: siders starting today, and we are donezoPhoto: blurry shot, focus was set for the follwing pictures.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Video: Video: