47 Photos - Dec 13, 2013
Photo: A clean, purposeful bike.Photo: Lower head lug, cut in my "Modern" style, along with the internally socketed fork crown.Photo: Classic Ellis fork rake.Photo: Tidy Di2 wire routing, the wire is routed along the rear brake cable and into the bottom of the top tube.Photo: Fastback seatlug, internal brake routing and stainless rack mounts.Photo: Love this Sea Foam Green!Photo: Dry fitting up the fork after raking and cutting the blades to length.Photo: Chainstays and fork are pretty much done, but everything else is right out of the box.Photo: Getting started on mitering the top tube, I use the lug as a template and mark the outline of where I need to cut.Photo: A rough starting point.Photo: After cutting both the top and bottom parts of the miter with a hacksaw.Photo: Then I'll get it perfect with a dynafile and hand files.Photo: A pretty tight fit!Photo: I've scribed the centerline of my top tube to keep the miters in phase with each other and then marked the miter to miter distance.Photo: Now I can slide my head tube lug down to that mark, keeping the points in line with my centerline and then mark my miters.Photo: Marking the head tube miter with my Sharpie!Photo: Ready to rough cut with the hacksaw.Photo: Both ends are mitered and it fits perfectly in the fixture!Photo: Next I did the same thing with the down tube.Photo: Then the chainstays.Photo: Cutting slots in the seat stays, these are looong and tight!Photo: Dry fitting the seat stays up.Photo: Now I'm grinding the ends of the seat stays so they wrap nicely around the teardrops in the dropouts.Photo: Making some "bumps" in the chainstays for extra tire clearance.Photo: Bump.Photo: Both stays are done.Photo: Now I'm prepping the lugs, first I ground the the inside of the lug to make it fit the down tube angle slightly better and now I'm starting to re-shape the lug and sharpen up the points.Photo: First I rough it in with the dynafile.Photo: Now I'm shaping it more gently with a hand file.Photo: Finally, I go all the way around with emery cloth to even up the curves and make the edge just right.Photo: One final dry fit with all the lugs.Photo: I've already brazed in the waterbottle bosses and the Di2 wiring port on the seat tube.Photo: I also ground down the dropout tabs so that I'll have less to grind after the frame is brazed.Photo: The lugs are super clean after coming out of their phosphoric acid bath.  The head tube is sporting extra big vent holes so I can route the Di2 wiring through here.Photo: Some very trim and curvy lugs.Photo: Doing a little brake bridge modification, I added a small eyelet underneath for a fender mount.Photo: Frame is fluxed up and tacked.Photo: Now I've brazed a stainless washer onto the fender mount so there won't be any chipped paint when installing or removing the fenders.Photo: Finally the brake bridge gets another stainless washer for the brake mount, again to prevent any chipped paint.Photo: Making a fender mount for under the fork crown, this is 3 pieces, the flat oval, and a short section of tubing that's drilled out to fit a stainless waterbottle boss.Photo: Getting everything set up.Photo: I caught a glimpse from this angle and I really love the way all the curves of the bottom bracket look.Photo: There's that fender mount brazed underneath the crown and finished.Photo: Finished head lugs along with an internal port for Di2 wiring and the internal brake routing.Photo: Finished seat lug along with some stainless fender mounts.Photo: Finished frame and fork.Photo: