29 Photos - May 14, 2015
Photo: Wiring the Subaru.

Our trailer weighs 1200 pounds fully loaded.Photo: Northern Tools 8x5' Trailer (with wheel jack and spare tire)Photo: Cutting braces to weld onto corners of trailer frame. Jacks were then welded onto these.Photo: Insulated trailer base (seal bottom with Henry's asphalt sealer)Photo: Routering then splicing 2 4x8' sheets of 3/4" plywood to create longer sides. Trailer height is 4' and length is 9'.Photo: Routering mortices to fit down over the trailer frame.Photo: Use asphalt sealer anywhere the wood touches the metal trailer.Photo: Sides cut out and lined up.Photo: Doors have been cut out. Framing spars for roof/ceiling being screwed in.Photo: Screwing in framing spars for the shape of the roof/ceiling. Pipe clamps are a must.Photo: Framing out kitchen and created one drawer for our cooler. The entire kitchen was designed around fitting this cooler - that determined the depth of the galley and height of the counter.Photo: 2 vertical drawers for food storage.Photo: Galley Kitchen ready for finishing details and wiring. The big rectangular hole is for the power box, other holes for USB, 12V and wall outlet.Photo: Attached interior skin. Just held in place with construction adhesive and clamped for a week to let dry. We did not want any screws showing through on the inside, so we did it this way. 1/8" birch plywood makes the ceiling.Photo: Used 2 layers of 3/4" insulation sandwiched together.Photo: Lots of wiring and lots of lights/outlets. This step took us a long time, but the effect is really worth it.Photo: Wiring outlets and switches.Photo: The grid on the side of the trailer was used to measure the shape of the teardrop. More details on this at teardropbuilder.comPhoto: Spars for the hatch.Photo: Framed out hatch with 2x2" poplar. Used corner braces to square it. Also created the frame for the handle at this point.Photo: Skinned interior of hatch and wired 2 overhead lights for the galley kitchen.Photo: Interior cabinet over feet. This is our only storage for clothing, gear, etc. in the trailer so we made it angle out over our feet to get the most space. Doors were cut with a CNC machine (Austin's cousin helped us out with that!)Photo: We attached the outside skin (1/8" birch plywood), then sealed cracks with Bondo. Everything was then waterproofed with 2 coats of penetrating, marine-grade epoxy. After that, aluminum skin was attached with indoor/outdoor carpet glue to allow for flexing and shrinking of the aluminum depending on temperature (called "tin canning").Photo: Using a flush cut router bit, the aluminum was trimmed down to the right shape and the doors, window and fan holes were cut out.Photo: Trimmed the edges with rounded trim that we bought at an RV repair shop. Exterior lights were attached and wired in. Handle screwed to hatch. Wheels and fenders attached. Doors, windows and fan screwed into place. 

In this picture, we are still missing the gasket for the hatch. That is the gap you see between the body and the hatch.Photo: Interior lighting up the back wall, reading lights and bedding.Photo: We also painted the cabinet face white and used self-leveling epoxy (liquid glass). There are lights behind the plexiglass doors for ambient lighting.Photo: Our first trip in it was a quick overnighter to Moab, Utah.Photo: Fits 2 and a 4-legged friend comfortably!