155 Photos - Feb 16, 2012
Photo: I laid my metal sword on a plank of wood and traced the outline. Then used a power planer to reduce the plank to 1 cm thickness. Then the handsaw to cut as close as I could to the line. Then put a belt sander in a vice on the table and sanded it down to the line.Photo: A side view to show how the belt sander is held by the vice.Photo: Belt sander in the vice with the hand saw removed.Photo: After spending another 45 minutes with a dremel tool getting it much closer to the line in all those tight spaces.Photo: Photo: Photo: Dremel rocks!  Made it easy like using a pencil to sand away the wood that's hard to get to in the decorative spaces.Photo: It's hard to tell but this circle started out as a SQUARE!Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: The blade actually fits all the way down into the PVC handle!  This is the weakest point of the sword!Photo: Photo: I took a picture of the metal sword, measured it, then made sure to print it out so that the print out was exact 1:1 size so I could trace the lines onto the wood.Photo: Photo: With my 1:1 print out I could trace it on the small, thin plywood and made the "wing" parts of the handle.Photo: Photo: Photo: Glued it all together to put in the decorations later.Photo: Drew the lines on where the beveled edges should go to make it look "sharp".Photo: This poor rotary tool got a workout putting the beveled edge on the blade!Photo: I put the bevel on the edge by hand just looking down the blade this way to see any "raised" spots.Photo: Photo: Traced on the decorative lines to help guide where to dremel in details.Photo: Photo: Starting to look somewhat like a sword...Photo: Lots of waiting for glue to dry.  What better way to enjoy your favorite beverage!Photo: Photo: Wood glue for added strength?  I hope so!Photo: Used the rotary tool to trim out the detail area at the base of the blade for more 3D detail.Photo: Since I couldn't trace through the wood I just used a nail to punch holes in all the places where I should trace.  Then after removing the paper print out I just connected the dots.Photo: Photo: Added the hand carved triforce into the blade.Photo: Used a compass and precision tools to measure out and draw the logo to carve.Photo: Photo: Photo: Used my trusty pocket knife I've had since 10 grade to carve it out.Photo: Photo: Photo: Carved out the lines between the "wings" with a sanding drum on the dremel held at a 45 degree angle to make a "V" shape for the lines.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Added the nib at the end of the handle and dremeled out some early detail lines.Photo: Now I need to make the nib at the end more of a sharp cone.Photo: What better way to sharpen this off than with a table sander!Photo: Decided to use the table sander to add angular parts to the nib.Photo: Thanks, 2StoryProps!Photo: This table sander is a wonderful tool.Photo: two different angles?  easy on the table sander!Photo: Photo: Photo: Starting to look really nice now!Photo: Sanding down the dried wood filler with coarse sand paper.Photo: After using this to sand in the hard to reach places 2StoryProps let me use their palm sander to make short work of sanding the rest.Photo: So much sanding, so little Mt Dew!Photo: Wood filler to fill in the knots and grain of the wood.Photo: The wood filler is going to cover up my decoration drawings on the hilt but I can always use my cheat sheet again.Photo: Photo: This laser cutter makes short work of any sort of carving or decoration you want to make out of MDF or Acrylic.Photo: Photo: I drew this in Inkscape as pure vectors on two layers.  The laser can have a different power and speed setting for each layer so it just barely carves some lines but then completely cuts out others.Photo: 40 Watts worth of laser beam doesn't mess around!Photo: Photo: The red lines will be set to CUT and the dark green lines are just CARVE.Photo: fast speed and full power fives times around the same line will cut all the way through but fast speed, low power and only 4 passes will just put in a nice etching line instead of cutting all the way through.Photo: Super glued the acrylic triforce to the blade.  A nice touch!Photo: Later this will be primed and painted over so it will look like a raised piece of the blade.Photo: Will look great once it's primed and painted over!Photo: Tennis grip tape holds spray paint really well!Photo: Made a practice handle to get better at the actual wrapping.Photo: Needs to be closer together before actually gluing it!Photo: Using Spot Glazing Putty to fill in any tiny holes and unevenness in the surface.Photo: Photo: Prime, inspect, putty, wait, sand, repeat until happy!Photo: Thanks, 2 Story Props, for all of your advice and spot glazing putty!Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Another pass of glazing putty!Photo: Worth every penny!  Borrowed this from 2StoryProps!Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Everything but the gum is for this sword!Photo: This plus the wood filler is the only money I spent for this sword.  Everything else was scrap wood and PVC pipe I just found lying around.Photo: Looks great just primed!Photo: So glad the primer didn't fill in the etch lines.Photo: I'm glad the primer didn't fill in those awesome fine lines in the logo carving!Photo: Photo: Spraying the blade first so it's easier to cover and tape to spray the rest.Photo: Photo: Hanging it overnight so it can really dry without touching anything.Photo: Painter's tape comes in handy!Photo: Took a while to tear the small pieces of painter's tape to fit in this small area.Photo: Photo: Now to cover the rest of the blade.Photo: Photo: Folded a sheet of paper to the width of the handle instead of covering the whole thing with tape.Photo: Photo: Covered the blade with sheets of paper and tape.Photo: This true blue color looks really great when it dries.Photo: Almost makes it look like plastic.  This will fool the DragonCon security easily!Photo: Almost too much spray paint!Photo: After removing the tape and paper you can see where some of the blue dripped in next to the tape!Photo: The handle was covered just fine.  Check out that clean line!Photo: Photo: Photo: Doh!  The blue tape didn't stick very well to that silver paint!  I also might have used a bit too much blue spray paint.Photo: Photo: Letting the fan dry the paint faster so I can do the blade touch up paint over top of the leaked in blue paint!Photo: Spraying the handle flat black so I covered everything else with plastic bags, paper, and tape.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Added the grip tape.  Looks pretty good!Photo: I put a single drop of super glue at each spot where it crosses over and at the ends.Photo: Now for the other decorative pieces also cut out with the laser cutter in acrylic.Photo: Traced the decorative pieces after laying them where they go.  Then I used an xacto knife to nip away the paint underneath to give something for the super glue to hold on to.Photo: Had to use upside down tape on this cardboard to hold these pieces in place because the spray paint blew them away!Photo: Just a drop or two of super glue to hold this in place is plenty.Photo: Photo: Photo: So decorative!Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: I cut out three diamond shapes each one 10% smaller than the next and used a single drop of super glue to hold them together.  This will be the jewel in the center of the handle.Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Red, translucent spray paint makes these look like rubies.Photo: Photo: Photo: Finally finished!  August 14 2012.  Just in time for DragonCon!Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Photo: Bought more super glue and blue felt to line the back of the shield to keep from scraping the paint off of the sword.Photo: Now we can store the sword inside the shield!  And since the back of the shield is lined with felt it won't scrape up the sword.