Are all of the stepper drivers on the RigidBoard for RB1 machines 16 microsteps except for the y axis?

Is there anything I need to tinker with aside from the board number to get it to work with the RAMBO board?

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Why try to serie- or parallell-connect 2 z-stepper motors?

I have created a "super-DRV8825" that uses only one stepperdriver-bay on the board, but gives up to 2A to each stepper-motor.

The heatsinks are in copper and mounted the way it should have been from the beginning.

The "pin-risers" are Arduino-Shield connectors. You will need one 8 pin connector and two 2pin connectors.

The heatsink is soldered to the thermal-vias a copperstrip will transfer the heat from the chip to the "external" heatsink.

I have made both the upper and the lower driver equal. This in not needed. You can simplify the design by only remove the pins for the JST connector.

The disadvantage of this design is that it will be high and that each driver hast to be adjusted separatly. When they are calibrated they are connected together and joined to the board.

When testing there was alot of improvements on the force.
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2017-03-14
4 Photos - View album

Anyone likes to share their experience with a bowden extruder & e3d v6 setup ok the RB? Is it ok to prolong the thermistor and heater cables? Are there any issues with retraction intense models?

Has anyone tried a silicone heater on their RB?
I also have MendellMax 3 and it seems to be working quite well there.

I'm considering converting my RB into COREXY. Besides the frame parts and the motors, practically all components have been replaced in my printer already.
I plan to move the Y rods up to the edges of the top frame. It requires a few holes only.
I have to print a new X rods holder to connect to the Y rods and print some parts to create the COREXY mechanics.
The HeatedBed should be connected directly to the Z carriage, which not be impacted otherwise.
Has any of you considered this conversion already?
What do you think? Is there any showstopper?

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I'm a bit confused by the Lead screws I ordered and received. I have the upgraded Z-rod on my RB1, and that is supposed to be M8 2mm pitch.

Then I ordered http://www.ebay.com/itm/371774921895?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=640748813420&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT which also says M8 2mm pitch. But the new ones have coarser threads then the old one. So, what I'm I missing? I mean if they don't match, and the RepRap calc says to use the same steps pr mm, the prints would come out off on the Z-axis, right?

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Printers making printers :) my rigidbot has been getting busy and making itself a friend. Printed all in a weekend on the volcano in abs. It's more or less a Vulcanus max 40. Build volume of about 16x16x24. Frame is assembled and working on a mount for the Titan extruder.
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Has anyone desinged a mount for BLTouch sensor using Peters MK8 dual e3d v1?

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Here's some pics Heath requested. It's a common setup - cork, PCB, borosilicate glass. I used to use full-length blue tape where the clamps are, which worked fine, but was slow if I wanted to remove the glass.
I've never used the aluminum plate. It was hopelessly warped. I print everything on glass and hair-spray.or glue-stiick.
I stuck the cork on the bottom of the PCB, flattened between two glass plates and weighted with a stack of books. However, I it worked fine before I put the cork on.

I threw in bonus pictures of some coasters I in the midst of printing.

EDIT: I've no idea why Google+ wants to show pics in the reverse order in the thumbnail...
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2016-07-07
5 Photos - View album
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