Post is pinned.

OK. Let's start this a bit early so we can make sure there are many options during the month for everyone!

RB3 Extruded Aluminum Frame Kit!!!! No electronics mainboard, power supply, etc. Build your own!!!!! Normally $549.00

30% off for the month of November ONLY!

That's $399 plus shipping!!!! Don't miss out on this incredible deal for one of the most Rigid designs on a platform base to build your own custom printer (only 20 at this price). Be one of the first 5 to order and we can customize your frontplate to meet your needs if you want something other than the standard cutout or Logo!!!!!

Here is the link

Use Coupon Code Frame150off for the discount. Also, use coupon code 4e3d20 on any other accessories or items you order at the same time!

finally got a chance to look at this - Heath what are the cable options to go to MKS? I think it's just the bye bye right? (which I'm in the process of eliminating or redesigning)

Post has attachment

Power Supply/Marlin Rebooting/Resetting

I've been having issues with Marlin randomly rebooting during prints. Then yesterday Marlin wouldn't boot at all- turning the printer on, it would just sit there showing a blank LCD.

I was worried that my mainboard had died, but it turned out to be a power supply issue. I am using the new ATX power supply from Reliabuild, and the new RB3 mainboard.

What proved it was a PSU issue was that my mainboard would boot fine if I jury-rigged another 5VDC power supply to run it. Measuring the power supply rails off the ATX PSU whilst connected to the mainboard, they were all within range (5VDC, 12VDC, 24VDC, etc), so I couldn't work out what was going on for a while.

The issue turned out to be a "sense" wire from the ATX PSU. There is a grey wire that the ATX standard states the PSU pulls low to indicate the rails aren't within range.

When I disconnected this grey wire from the mainboard, everything worked fine.

I'm not sure what was the root cause here- whether the PSU was pulling the trigger wire low or it was a mainboard issue. But again, I confirmed all the PSU rails are within range of their expected voltages.

All I can say is disconnecting the grey wire from the mainboard meant that Marlin booted just fine, and I've done a few successful prints since.

Hope that helps someone else if they have mysterious RB3 mainboard reboots..

Did anyone ever come up with a decent solution for the power supply?

My immediate gripe is the screwed in wire to the terminals. Seems rather fragile/risky and I'd like to do something more familiar like a computer style plug (dunno the name at the moment)

I'm prepping my rigidbot to be a little more mobile so I can move it from one room to another (when I get kicked out) and that's the annoying part is it's not exactly mobile.

For wiring the endstop probe sensor in I'm using the solution for the dual extruder with Peters circuit, which is designed for NPN NO circuit. But at the Time i bought the sensor I only could find NPN NC sensor for induction on glass.

+Peter Stoneham

I seem to recall a post on what i need to do to flip the sensor to be NC but i couldn't find reference to this solution in the wiki. Is this something i can do in software? I don't think i flip the polarity?

Trying to decide upgrade RBB or get Sainsmart CR10 20x20x20 , any thoughts ?

Post has attachment
Hey everybody! Just a quick thank you for being such a great community. The team can't express how thankful we are for all the support and great members of the community for their feedback and patronage as we continue to keep the path to future upgrades open for all Legacy Rigidbot printers while also making the new Regular, BIG and XL ReliaBuild3d Printers.

We have been having some very solid success with schools in Utah over the last year and we are finding that not many of the teachers have taken us up on joining the Google Plus forum to find answers.

In response to requests from them, we have created a VERY basic questions and answer section on the site for anyone to use.

Please help us by adding some of your favorite questions and answers if you are willing! This would be a great addition to the future of all our printers.

Here is the link, don't hesitate with any questions or suggestions.

Post has attachment
Sure do miss printing. I'm in touch with Reliabuild to order some spare parts to my printers that have been MIA for a few months now. Hopefully I don't have to upgrade everything at a higher price than what I bought my printers for originally. I may have to go with using generic mainboards and power supplies if the price savings is comparable to the time I'll have to invest in converting. It's been a fun journey since my wife went in on our first printer kit with me. Excited to get my dual extrusion going that I never did set up before the power supplies and main boards failed. Definitely got a lot of prints out before then.
10 Photos - View album


the Marlin has newer values than the wiki. MKS 1.4 is available, but seems the part I need to determine for rigidbot is the suffix

The rigidtalk wiki suggests EEB

#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB 34 // RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Hotend0, Hotend1, Bed)

so I assume I want

#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EEB 44 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Hotend0, Hotend1, Bed)

Not any of these:

#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFF 45 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Hotend, Fan0, Fan1)
#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EEF 46 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Hotend0, Hotend1, Fan)
#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_SF 48 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Spindle, Controller Fan)
Wait while more posts are being loaded