I'm thinking of selling my RB big. It's in perfect condition, I have upgraded the bed heater connector, extruders (All the metal bits from NZ). It has single and dual extruders both factory and upgarded. Lots of spare bits. I'll post some pictures later. $600? Interested parties please let me know.

I'm rebuilding my RB1 Big after it has been in storage for a bit because of a mold problem in an adjoining room. So we have the tank mod with a new Nema 17 Bowden setup now. We tried to do the first boot on it and, I get the blue light on the power supply then turn the system on and the light goes off and nothing, anyone have any ideas?

Going on a long shot here, but does anyone have the rigidbot Kickstarter t-shirt in a large or medium in new or like new condition? Looking to buy.

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I’m new to printing and thought I’d share. My wife and mother saw the Reliabuild 3D at the Salt Lake City Comic Con and asked if I’d be interested. Well... Yeah! So they bought the “Big” kit (12 x 16 x 10).

After building it, I did two calibration prints and then straight to something useful. A simple growler drain/dryer attachment seemed like a good place to start...

Anyways, I look forward to learning more from you all!

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I am almost finished working to a new Z-Axis End stop fine tuning. It works great !

The reason is that I am planning to mount glass and Gekko pads over the plate. On my other RepRapPro, I simple remove the glass, and then I strongly detach the objects over the glass on a table, without the fear to bend the aluminium plate. With this new endstop regulator is very easy to fine tune the z-endstop distance, and put/remove a glass over the aluminium bed without redoing the entire bed calibration process.

Initially I looked at Thingiverse, but I did not find anything I liked, so I decided to create an original new one. I used my old RepRapPro to build RigidBot pieces, since the RigidBot is still unfinished...

You can see it now just assembled and installed on the RigidBot X axis. One of the main rules was, "everybody should be able to easily print it", so I avoided any strange parts nearly unprintable or that required supports.
I spent weeks to do something elegant, and that could fit well with the RB design.

It has been designed for the RB1 original, and I am not sure if the new RB released, maintains the same distances and the tube sizes of RB1.

I will put it soon on Thingiverse.

PS: I will change the silver screws with black, as soon as I will receive from Amazon. :)
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Sure do miss printing. I'm in touch with Reliabuild to order some spare parts to my printers that have been MIA for a few months now. Hopefully I don't have to upgrade everything at a higher price than what I bought my printers for originally. I may have to go with using generic mainboards and power supplies if the price savings is comparable to the time I'll have to invest in converting. It's been a fun journey since my wife went in on our first printer kit with me. Excited to get my dual extrusion going that I never did set up before the power supplies and main boards failed. Definitely got a lot of prints out before then.
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Hey everybody! Just a quick thank you for being such a great community. The ReliaBuild3d.com team can't express how thankful we are for all the support and great members of the community for their feedback and patronage as we continue to keep the path to future upgrades open for all Legacy Rigidbot printers while also making the new Regular, BIG and XL ReliaBuild3d Printers.

We have been having some very solid success with schools in Utah over the last year and we are finding that not many of the teachers have taken us up on joining the Google Plus forum to find answers.

In response to requests from them, we have created a VERY basic questions and answer section on the site for anyone to use.

Please help us by adding some of your favorite questions and answers if you are willing! This would be a great addition to the future of all our printers.

Here is the link, don't hesitate with any questions or suggestions.



the Marlin has newer values than the wiki. MKS 1.4 is available, but seems the part I need to determine for rigidbot is the suffix

The rigidtalk wiki suggests EEB

#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB 34 // RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Hotend0, Hotend1, Bed)

so I assume I want

#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EEB 44 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Hotend0, Hotend1, Bed)

Not any of these:

#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFF 45 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Hotend, Fan0, Fan1)
#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EEF 46 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Hotend0, Hotend1, Fan)
#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_SF 48 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Spindle, Controller Fan)

Plugged in my old 12864 LCD into the new MKS 1.4 and the LCD didn't light up at all. It seems wiring is straight forward exp1 to exp1 and exp2 to 2.

Mks starts up and led goes green. Fan kicks on. So far that's all i get.

I would like to rule out a Failed LCD or was it the Sainsmart that swapped the EXP labeling?

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Does anyone know why I keep getting this shifting? It is usually to the right and in larger prints. I have the regular rigidbot, use Cura.
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