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Derek Cameron

Discussion  - 
Does anyone know what kind of filament would be best to make a concrete mold?  As in, print the mold, once the concrete cures then remove the mold and use it multiple times.

Would PLA or ABS work?  I can't really find much info on this.  Thanks, everyone!
Alan Thomason's profile photoDerek Cameron's profile photo
Hmmm, I'll start with that then. Thanks, Alan!
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Warren Trapp

Build Logs/Issues  - 
I did a calibration cube and then shutoff the printer for the night. Next day I re leveled the bed and started printing a MakerBot nut and bolt and the print was everywhere, absolutely terrible. I tried again but after the brim no filament would come out. Any suggestions ?

Also anybody know how to troubleshoot OCTOPRINT ?
Alan Thomason's profile photo
Did you let the printer cool down after the print was complete before turning off the power? If not, you most likely have a jam and/or a restricted Teflon tube due to excessive heat. If you can't clear it by doing a couple of cold pulls, you will have to disassemble the hot end to clear it and possibly replace the Teflon tube (some, myself included have drilled the tube back to size, but it is generally not recomended).
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Ben Millen

Discussion  - 
Anybody successfully used a bl touch with the rb1 board yet?
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Ben Millen

Troubleshooting  - 
Need some help, feel like I'm going mad, I've been using volcano with no problem for ages, just switched back to my regular .4 head for some detail stuff and I'm having a nightmare, never had so much trouble with it before, I feel like I've forgotten how to use it, I've adjusted a million setting in simplify I've adjusted my bed I've changed my nozzle and filament but this bloody print will not stick to the bed, any help welcome, see video for what keeps happening ever single time!
Ernesto Martinez's profile photoBen Millen's profile photo
+Harry Franklin however you're making me consider putting a volcano on the other caridge with a .4 as that way I won't have to recalibrate the height each time I swap, thanks for the idea :)
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David Bunger

Troubleshooting  - 
I just started using old RB printer again, and it was working well, until I happened to break the extruder fan. I ordered four new ones online, but when they came and I tried to use them, all they would do is heat up and not spin. The new fans are just like the old one, 24V 0.1A, but I can't figure out the problem. I think it has something to do with the extruder board. Is there any way I can get a new one?
Neil Ferreri's profile photoDavid Bunger's profile photo
Thank you all! I'll try to switch the wires and see if it works out.
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Christopher Mcdermott

Build Logs/Issues  - 
So my rigidbot printer is not sticking to the plate, I have tried masking tape and glue and I am using PLA but nothing is working, any suggestions
Darth Octane's profile photoTommy Nilsson's profile photo

Dan J

Troubleshooting  - 
Hi All,
I have been a very happy RBB user for a while and recently have noticed a banding issues with my prints and would like to get some feed back. The basics first about the print and prints: RRB with T16 upgrade, PLA printed at 195C, upgraded Z-axis motors, MKS board and microstepping at 1/32 (I know over kill), slicer is Simplify3D, titian extruder that I calibrated properly following Tom's instructions and I print from SD. Things I have already done, cleaning and lubed the threaded rods, followed wiki instructions for alignment of the z-axis, then printed this model. Then I read on the wiki that perhaps the z-axis is over constrained so I loosened all the bolts on the brass nuts then reprinted the model, see photo attached. I was thinking about printing something to constrain the top of the threaded rod but I read that is a bad thing to do on the integrated motor/rod. There is very little wobble in the z axis when I have it rotate, at least not what I consider to be a lot of movement. Any ideas or need anymore information to help get to the bottom of this? The banding does appear to be mostly random but there seems to be a regular-ish 4.3mm spacing.
Ed Williams's profile photoEllis Wood's profile photo
I saw similar issues and replaced the stepper. cleaned it right up... if the stepper turns with the normal friction it's probably ok... if it turns smoothly, bad stepper. you should feel it go thru the 'steps' as you turn it. if it us too hard to turn, it is most likely bad as well... I had one that was good as far as the steps go, but it went back and forth erratically even on a straight motion... not good. so, if you've changed all the rest and still get this, swap out the stepper and see if that resolves it.
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Jeff Parish

Discussion  - 
Does anyone have an STL of an original RB LCD case?
Jeff Parish's profile photoCarlton Dodd's profile photo
+Jeff Parish
I'll see if I have it when I get home tomorrow (out of town right now).
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Jeno Bozoki

Upgrades  - 
Has anybody played with the new Trinamic 2130 drivers? I just replaced my X-Y pololu drivers on my RAMPS setup with these. I broke out the SPI signals, selected some free pins for CS lines, and backported the chip support code from Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 to 1.0.2 what I'm using. Seems to be working fine. The motion is definitely smoother. My goal with this is to be able to detect the layer shifts, at least on the octoprint level (maybe automatically correct them), and reduce ringing on the printer level. Now comes the hard job, to read the 100+ pages datasheet to find the best settings. Maybe somebody has the already?
Heath Harper's profile photo

William Eades

News Articles  - 
Anyone into the aspects of filament standards might be interested in looking at this from the Bureau of Standards, my "Old Employer" (The name was changed to protect the guilty). ;-} There is a PDF link attached at the bottom of the page.
Finally, someone is doing something about a problem faced by virtually all polymer-based 3D printing: predictability.
William Eades's profile photoJeff Parish's profile photo
Ahhh, the PDF link at the bottom of the article.  Got it.  Thanks!
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Mike Stew

Troubleshooting  - 
Ok guys, so I'm heading the right direction, I think.
I ordered the electronics upgrade kit for my RB1 last week from Laser Weld. I got it today and started right in. Everything went on pretty easy, I still have to figure out what I want to do for wire management, but nonetheless I'm up and running again, sort of.

Problem: I believe the movement in all the axis are going in the correct direction (+/-). The thing is when I hit extrude on Pronterface, the motor goes in reverse and spits the filament back out, and when I hit "reverse" it extrudes the filament through the nozzle. So, my question is what can I do to fix this? Anybody have some Ideas of what is causing it? Can't wait to get up and running again! Thanks in advanced!
Mike Stew's profile photoHeath Harper's profile photo
Can you send some pictures or video to
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About this community

Rigidbot 3D Printing Please start with our wiki before asking for help: A sturdy, customizable 3D printer that is easy to use and affordable for all. With this printer there is no limit to your creativity. THIS IS A GROUP OF VOLUNTEERS AND IS NOT RUN/MANAGED BY INVENTAPART STAFF. This group is for people who have backed the RigidBot project, pre-ordered it or are simply interested in this great printer. We do not represent and have no official links to the manufacturer, Invent A Part. We have a zero-tolerance policy on spam. When posting, please make sure what you're posting clearly indicates what it has to do with either the Rigidbot, or general 3D printing. Before posting questions it is helpful to look at the links below.

Ben Millen

Off Topic  - 
Sorry for the multiple posts, does anyone here in the UK have a decent printer control board they're wanting to sell on at a budget friendly price, trying to get my friends cheap eBay i3 working, to be honest it's so badly designed I'd tear it apart and build a new printer if it was mine but budget dictates we make do

It has a MKS gen 1.4 in it and it's just giving me issues all the way, wanna get something with a bit more community/manufacturer support

Any recommendations also welcome (burn it with fire is a good one but I can't)

TIA :)
Tony Gomes's profile photoBen Millen's profile photo
lol oh ok ill have a look, are there any good images there i could flash, even if for rigidbot i could tweak it for his...infact ill stop asking and start looking, thank you :)
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Paul Daniel Romero

Troubleshooting  - 
Not sure exactly how to describe this so I'll do my best. Can anyone give me suggestions on how to eliminate the bumps I get in my prints every couple layers ?
Paul Daniel Romero's profile photoWylie Hilliard's profile photo
Any layer height that is a multiple of 0.01mm is acceptable.
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Johnny Lindén

Software (Open Source)  - 
This is the v0.16-beta

There is so many changes in this release that it requires a total deinstallation before installation of this version

Uninstall Marlin3DprinterTool using ControlPanel->UnInstall a Program
Goto C:\Program Files (x86) and remove the directory Marlin3DprinterTool
Goto C:\programData (may be a hidden directory)
Rename the Marlin3DprinterToolConfiguration.xml to somthing ( like Marlin3DprinterToolConfiguration.xml-2017-01-09)
Rename the MarlinEditorConfiguration.xml to something( like MarlinEditorConfiguration.xml-2017-01-09)
The Marlin3DprinterToolConfiguration.xm contains your license data. Useful if you have deleted the license mail.

The MarlinEditorConfiguration.xml contains the paths to current Firmware and fw that you can migrate to and Adruino IDE.
May save some time to copy/paste path to the new config files after installation.

Run the MSI
Start Marlin3DprinterTool and paste in the license key in setup
Connect to your printer and look for the parameter tab to show all parameters that are extracted from your printer.
Start with testing the EndStops. Test the Z-probe with a sponge to give you some exta time to hit power-off before it ruins the bed/nozzle or other parts. Look at this video:
The distance between nozzle and bed should be at least 0.5mm.
Try to meassure the Z_PROBE_OFFSET with the new Z-probe gauge.
When the z-probe is up and running and gives you repeatable values its time to configure the bed.
REMEMBER TO HOME X/Y/Z before configure the bed
There is different methods of configure the bed corners.
Use the "kompass" to move the nozzle to the corners then hit the "pin" button. This copy the position to the screen
Enter X/Y coordinates for each corner and the "Safe Home" in the middle. Save the position with the save button for each corner. Verify that the corners ar correct with the "goto" button
In previous releases the adjusters have positions. I have discovered that they are almost irrelevant if the bed is close to flat from the beginning (= within +- 1-2mm) On 3 adjuster setup the single adjuster is assumed to be somewhere close to the middle between the nearest corners.

The Bed Leveling makes the far left adjuster "the fixed adjuster". The reason for this is that this adjuster is the most difficult adjuster for righthanded.

When a adjuster is within 0.05mm the adjuster is assumed to be OK. The other corners are marked with clockwise or counterclockwise direktion arrows and amount to turn as hour:minutes. ( 1 hour = 1 turn)

After a bedlevel procedure the result can be seen at the surface tab. Beware that the axis is scaled and the picture shows a more dramatic picture of how the bedsurface is bent.

Do a surface scan .. Almost the same as Bed Level but you can scan with more points

Configure Z-probe contains G29 responce. Next development is to use that to get visible chart of a G29.

PID tab has added Extruder. I need some feedback of how this is working on dual printers. (I have only single extruder printers)

Extruder calibration is possible to choose Extruder. I need some feedback of how this is working on dual printers. (I have only single extruder printers)

Parameters.. Is there some parameters missing that you are using??

The "Show Communication" has a Send command that stores previous commands within a "connection"..

Help me testing the existing Issues on Github.. Close issues if you are satisfied with the new functionality.
Add some more issues if you find some new features that will improve M3DpT.
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does anyone know where i can find a part cooling fan mount for a 40mm fan on peter's single extruder.
Heath Harper's profile photoRobert Parker's profile photo
Thingiverse.   Rigidbot Single E3D V6 MK8 Part Fan Mount   go to Thingiverse, in the search window enter 1547345 then press enter... thank Darth for this fan mount. Happy Printing
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Louis Wegner

Stuff for Sale  - 
Original Rigidbot for sale, make an offer after reading description if interested. Printer is in southeast Wisconsin.

I supported the Kickstarter in 2013 and received a pre-built 10x10x10 unit with the precision z-rods and the lcd screen. Also, a reel of PLA material. It is the single extruder model.

I attempted maybe 3 prints on the unit before trying to get support. I was told the heated build plate was warped. I sent in my build plate (with heating element attached), and only received a build plate in return, so the unit is missing a heated build plate.

Otherwise, it's been sitting under a dust protector for three years, doing nothing.

I'll also throw in an original Doodle 3d from another Kickstarter project I endorsed.

I would prefer to sell the whole unit versus parting it out.

Followup with questions and I'll do my best to answer them.



Doodle3D Transform is a new app for desktop and tablet. It makes designing in 3D really easy and fun! Transform your 2D drawings easily into 3D designs. You can draw by hand, scan photos or import existing images. Send your design to a 3D-printer or upload it to an online service.
Louis Wegner's profile photoJerry Fountain's profile photo
+Louis Wegner I'll pay better than scrap prices (but still be looking at parts). A google search on your name and Wisconsin turned you up on linkedin (I'm assuming it was you). Heck, we're only 3rd cousins on LinkedIn :) I know the area so I'm not too surprised that most of your potential customers would be looking for steel. Still, plenty of potential in Milwaukee. As for the Doodle3D, I'd try ebay (mine is just sitting in a box of parts under my printers).
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Ian w.

Build Logs/Issues  - 
Hi so I got the BYEBYE-D board and if I remember correctly some connection is revers, can anybody tell me which?
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Another nice KickStarter I supported. And it isn't expensive at all. I went for the DIY unit.
Never worry about dry running your 3D printer again. RhinoSmart will pause the print if printer runs out of filament or there is a jam
Logan Johnson's profile photoBen Millen's profile photo
+Logan Johnson yeah he should maybe release the designs and go the patreon route or similar donation method for his code, he deserves money for his efforts but the rewards on kickstarter just seem odd, I mean it could work if there was just a £10 and I'll send the the stl's part list and code but even then patreon or similar sounds better, that way he can get some regular income from continued development
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Ruwan Janapriya

Show-An-Tell  - 
Printed a Strandbeest!

Printer: Rigidbot, Material: ABS.
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Jerry Fountain

Show-An-Tell  - 
Don't you just hate it when... you open up the cover on a relatively simple print job and see this!
Post your own "art" shot so I don't feel so lonely in this :)
Michael Bushey's profile photoJim Wilson's profile photo
Been there done that bought the t-shirt. Regardless of the print complexity, I hate it when that happens. At least it doesn't look like it will set you that far back. Now that I am doing some very long prints when a print knocks loose after 20+ hours it can get uh emotional to put it politely. I have been having very good results and successful with the gecko tech build plates. I haven't had a print come off with it and no tape, glue, hairspray, etc. I won't print anything without it.
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