Hey guys, I'm going to replace the nozzle on my RGB2, I've never replaced anything in the extruder before, is there anything else I should replace while doing the nozzle?

Hey folks, i have two E3D V6 extruders at my rigidbot. Yesterday i got the idea, to replace the nozzle on my second extruder with a 0.8mm nozzle- so i can choose the 2nd extruder if i wanna print larger objects fastly.

Problem: I have no idea, how to tell Cura that i wanna print a singleprint model with my 2nd extruder, instead with the first extruder. Any ideas? Also tried the SelectExtruder plugin for cura, but didnt worked...

Every time I try to use KISSlicer I get a "Thermal Runaway" error very early in the print. This doesn't happen with Slic3r, Cura, skeinforge, repsnapper, nor Repetier. Anybody else ever run across this? No, part fan is not running but I can run it when using other slicers and there's no issue.

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New chapter of the RigidBot build saga.
Previous chapters:

- Issue with false contacts on the end-stop ribbon cable that caused crashes of the Z axes on the table: Replaced by new wires.
- Issue con the DOWN button of the LCD that cause the FR to go 10% and the printer slow down till almost stop: A cold welding of a SMD resistor on the LCD panel, brought the 5V to 2.3v, and that was detected as key pressed by the electronic logic. Reworked.

Now I finally started to print the calibration objects again.

- The X axe steps measure seems completely wrong. Very strange.
- I have symptoms that the stepper motors may loose steps.
- The belt of X & Y may me not enough tight
- I can not tighten the belt tensioner of Y.

The cube (!) in the yellow pictures are the first print. Notice how the brim & skirt around have a strange and asymmetrical shape. Rounded at bottom right (as should be) but almost squared at bottom left. Then, as the object start to raise it seems it loose steps or shifts, notice the bow and stern effect.

Then I tights as possible the Y belt. However the bolt is still half-lose, but I can't reach the bolt to further tighten the bolt.
The blue blue images, are the second print. The bow and stern effect is almost gone, but again only on the bottom face (the one near Y zero) have a strange step effect, while the other side Y is almost flat.

- And now ?? Steps ? Belt tension ? What to do ?

The 20x20x10 0.4mm thin wall was in reality 17.51x20.54x10.02 and the thin was was 0.42. The 17.51 size was the X axe.

- Why the default firmware X steps are so wrong ?

Last but now least, the PLA is very bad, and at 0.25 does not attach well either on Kampton at 60°. I some cases (the brim curled up just during the second layer, 50° bed...)
6 Photos - View album

I am struggling to find the PDF Electrical scheme of the 5 buttons RigidBot LCD & USB.
I looked around the web and it is full of "traditional" versions schemes with LCD & Encoder. No track of the 5 buttons version. The only one that I have found had 5 resistors connected to the buttons all in parallel, so ONE signal/wire with different voltage was used to detect what button was pressed. But in the RigidBot scheme, we see 5 lines going to the Digital ports, one for each button, so that is not the case.

There is nothing on the RigidWiki (at least I have not found it) and Reliabuild site.
In particular at the moment I need to know if the 5 buttons are GROND connected, and up to 5V state change means button pushed, or the reverse, 5V connected, and voltage down to GROUND means button pushed.

- Anyone knows how it works ?

Otherwise I will need to dismount and analyse the whole panel board.

I needed it to solve an issue with the LCD.
Since I was not able to find it, I had to dismount the panel and do reverse engineering on the board.
Once done, I solved the issue. It was a defective assembling of the LCD board.
See below the full story.

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Hello Group,

Looking to sell a relatively new, fully assembled, RigidBot 10x10x10 (no LCD screen) with a black spool and white spool of PLA. Will entertain any serious offers with reasonable shipping from the midwest (St. Paul, MN). In a perfect world would like to get $395 (w/ shipping) for it. What I paid, but am interested in moving it by the weekend. Just didn't get as much use as I thought I was going to. Works great, is dialed in and maybe ran a total of 10 prints through it.


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I would like to install a fan under the RigidBot original motherboard plastic box (there are already holes for a fan installation). This because I have seen the U4 becomes very hot (I put a metal cooler on it), and also the stepper drivers.

The problem is that I can't find any jumper connector on the board for the fan!

On the electrical scheme (http://www.rigidtalk.com/download/file.php?id=5) I can see a J1 connector, that probably is the power plug, that has the +/- 24V and an the right of the scheme, J15 (Fan for stepper driver) that has +/- 24V.
On the reality, J15 does not exists on the board (I could not find it) so the only reliable solution would be to solder two wires getting the power either from the Power Plug, or by the voltage regulator U4 (LM1084).

- Did you any of you installed the board fan on the original RigidBot ?
- and if yes, where did you got the power ?

Hey +Heath Harper​ i just wanted to ask if you have any RBB heatbeds for sale ?? Mine finally gave out so i just wanted to see if u have any avail so i wont have to mess around with it.

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WHOA, it runs like a replicator on the Enterprise!
Playin with repsnapper last night and set speed to 20-500 and extruded lines to 200. Only a 10mm cube but after skirt was laid, it was a "full cube" in under a minute.

Not at all a practical way to print anything but it was fun watchin it build a thing at ludicrous speed. Don't got the balls to kick it up to plaid though.

Hello, I'm wondering what software version supports the LCD option? I have one of these LCDs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-12864-Graphic-Smart-Controller-for-RepRap-RAMPS-1-4-3D-Printer-Mendel-Prusa-/181470894101?hash=item2a40821815:g:mgkAAOSwQItTzHCQ

I was wondering about the pin-out change of the connector of that LCD versus what is on the Rigidbot original motherboard.

Is there a tutorial for this exact thing?
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