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Reposting here.

Hi all, long time no print.
Been looking into replaceing my controller board as my z axis runs funky (read unreliable AF) and the table likes to slam on startup zeroing. (Basically things go wonky any time the motors switch to fast move)

Anyway, do y'all have any suggestions on which board to go to? Preferably something with an SD card slot. I have come to mistrust USB based printing

who is happy with the e3d volcano?

I was due for replacing my heat block. Stripped the tension screw and didn't want the effort to untap.

I have installed a linear digital dial, on my RigidBot X axis. My idea was to use it to have a fine bed alignment. I have the aluminum bed with a glass on top of it. Unfortunately yesterday I discovered that is not useful.

The glass seems not to be flat !!! It is waved.

So if I reset 0 in the middle X, I see the dial display going +0.02,+0.09,+0.12,+0.05,+0.03, -0.03,-0.09 from middle to right, and something similar from middle to left. I would have expected linear up or down only values, instead of this up and down sequence.

There are too many sources of errors. Even the X mechanics are not steady. If a move a little the values change. In some cases, I had the feeling that the bed was not flat at all, but spherical !!!

In addition, having 4 screw is a pain, I was thinking to drill a mid right hole, and use a 3 way screw system.

BACKGROUND:
I had the idea to mount 4 high definition micro optical motors connected to the bed screws, and the digital dial on the X axes. Then the firmware scans the bed surface with dial recording the values, calculates the 3D surface plan, and carefully rotate the 4 motors connected to the bed screws to perfect align automatically the bed.

But I did not considered that the bed is not flat at all, and it is an irregular surface. No idea on the validity to align an uneven surface.


So I'm completely pulling my hair out here. I haven't used my printer in months, and made the mistake of going ahead and upgrading Marlin before starting a project. I've copied all the applicable settings in and flashed the firmware, but it refuses to adjust the Z as it prints... it's just ignoring that bed leveling is even enabled. I must just be missing something along the way, can anyone validate my process below?

- Copied firmware configuration
- Calibrated Z-probe offset (-0.88) - Manually leveled bed to be within ~1mm
- Validated Z-probe offset in center of bed ensuring it firmly grabs a piece of paper
- Homed with G28
- Ran bilinear leveling with G29
- Enabled bed leveling grid with M421 S
- Validated "Bed Leveling On" with M420
- Saved all config with M500

Does anybody have the original RIGIDBOT and does it still work? If so, what did you do to it to make it work right? Mine will print for 2-3 layers then stop. I don't know what to do, I have had this thing since June of 2015 and I think I have 10 things come out great and the rest looks like noodles, well I decided to put it up for a year and now I want it to work right. Anybody have any tips to make it worth the money I spent or should I just scrap it and buy a new one?

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I wanted to make a hook for a bag to sit on a slanted railing. It took a few revisions, but I think it came out great! My Reliabuild3D RB2 printer did great with the 45 degree slope. The one pictured on the bed here was a previous build. I didn’t have to use supports for any of it.
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6/10/18
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More drama!

I replaced the PSU, and the printer worked for a day or three. Now it's doing this thing where while I'm preheating, it might decide that nah, it doesn't want to preheat anymore, and it just stops. Suddenly the temp is 190/0 or something similar.

Possibly unrelated, it also clogged 4 nozzles in an hour. I hadn't changed to a new spool, I'm using one that I'm halfway through and it's been fine so far. Any thoughts?

Thanks friends!

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My new record print from a few weeks ago. Was printing in TPU and had to slow it down a bit. Started printing Monday morning and finished up Saturday evening.
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Printing some replacement coins for a vintage toy register set (pictured register is an internet photo for reference). I noticed a little ‘gotcha’ with one of the STLs that I downloaded. The ‘10’ coin had a part that was at a different Z height than the rest of the parts. I didn’t catch it, and it started printing goobers around layer 7 or so. Let that be a lesson to everyone. ALWAYS look at how your slicer brings up the first layer (and any other areas you may be concerned about). Some of them are an easy fix.

www.thingiverse.com/make:315719
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6/4/18
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