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Today I finally installed the filement protector box I built in December but never had the time to install. I will put some silica gel inside.
It was built with a hat box from Amazon and some 3dprinted parts.
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BACKGROUND: I have replaced my 24V 16A power supply with a new one 20A 24V. All things seem to go better but after hours of print, I experienced again the issue of the "ghost down button" and my flow moved from 100% to 98% (of course very little, and not 10% and button always pressed as in the past, but it happened). The button is detected by the motherboard when on one port there are around 4.3V. So I am convinced that the "Ghost down button" effect was always originated by a drop of the 5V power.
I have the original RigidBot board hacked with a square hole over the 5V regulator on the plastic box to get air, and an aluminium dissipater over it, plus the fan mounted under on the board box.

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Today I was looking at the schematics to better understand, and I see that:

- The stepper motors are powered by 24V - direct power
- The Extruder fan is 24V - direct power
- The extruder is hotted by 24V - direct power
- The board logic is 5V, regulated only by an IC that take the 24V direct and convert to 5V. This 5V regulator does not have any "screw" to regulate the 5V.

So if I measured the 5V from the USB LCD Panel, and I got 4.98V.

- is this too low ?
- what can I do to bring at 5.0 / 5.1 and what influence the regulation of this voltage ?

Assuming my 24V is not 24 but 23.80 (I did not measure it yet)...

- has this an influence on the final 5V output since the difference 24/5 is so great and the regulator IC has no screws to regulate the 5V voltage and seems to do all automatically (perhaps wrong)
- My opinion is that there is nothing I can do, and if certain condition, hot, overtemp, overpower may cause the chip to fail the regulation of the 5V.

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Reposting here.
I was just able to recover a print that was 44 hours in and had a nozzle jam. I measured the print height, went into the G code of the print, and found what layer was at that height. I deleted everything previous to that layer and added a little bit of code before it:
G28 X Y (to home the X and Y Axis only)
G1 X0.0 Y0.0 Z140 (move two mm above the layer I wanted to start on)

I copied the first coordinate out of the layer I wanted to start on, and added two mm to the Z axis so it would move into place while staying above the print.

G1 X84.050 Y47.834 Z140

Then I left the rest of the code as-is. I set the nozzle and bed temperatures manually, and started the code I had modified. It did exactly what I wanted! I ran the first layer 5 degrees hotter and at 10% speed to try and remelt some of the previously left print. After the first layer, I turned on the part cooling fan, turned the nozzle back down 5 degrees, and ramped it back to 100% speed! Seems to be running like a champ! I’m glad I have that flexibility with this printer.
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Reposting here.
What happens when you leave your husband home alone with a 3D printer and a box of sprinkles....
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2/17/18
3 Photos - View album

I think I may have burned out my motherboard. I was printing something today, print finished, then I swapped filament to do another. Now the printer is not turning on. I have the original IAP motherboard, but with the upgraded Reliabuild power supply. The power supply is getting power, but the printer is not turning on when I flip the switch. I tried the original power supply and same issue. Is there a fuse I may have tripped? Is my motherboard done?

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Happy Valentines Day to my wife! I printed you some roses and a vase. Didn’t have time for the stems, but you get the idea.

Plastic Roses, Plastic Roses
They don’t wilt and they wont grow
But they manifest a beauty
That will never dim or slow

True, they may be imitation,
But they’ll last eternally
Like the everlasting constant
Of the love ‘tween you and me.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1705493
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:673206
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1404809
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Pulled the rigidbot big out after sitting for almost 2yrs. So tied up with work. I see I last left it I was trying to switch to a rumba board. (my original board still works, but I wanted to know I could run with a new board). Uploaded the latest marlin. So I've hooked up my stepper motors (have byebye board and Peter's dual extruder). Everything moves, but doesn't sound great. I used a multimeter to set the driver voltage (DRV8825s that came fully cranked, all default set to 1/32 stepping). Had to dial it down to a lower voltage. Steppers still get very hot after just a little movement (there are tiny heat sinks, guess I will need a temp driver fan till I print a case).
So my questions:

1) When I run the extruders (heater off, no filament, bypassed cold extrusion), they feel and sound like they are pulsing, like they are moving in very small increments even though it does appear to the eye to turn smoothly. When I turn them slowly by hand, I feel the gearing. I don't remember the original board making these sounds.

2) Should I be able to move an axis by hand? For example, my X axis moves great but then I can very easily just push it manually as well. I thought the steppers when idle kind of locked in place? I turned up the voltage slightly on the X (.8v), and then it sounded smoother but then when it stopped moving, there was another very faint sound, but couldn't pin it, and I could still move the X manually. Is this right?

3) Where are the extruder fans getting their power? I have not yet hooked up the rumba's fan connector to the byebye board to the X carriage. The only thing I wired was the extruders, heaters, and thermistors, but yet both extruder fans run?

4) Worried maybe something is mislabeled and now miswired. Getting the big lcd working with the rumba sucked. What happens if I am accidentally switching a pair of wires between the two coils? For the X,Y, and Z, I just plug the connector into the pins, depending on which way, motors either move in the right direction or not. The extruders I had to manually wire between the bye bye board and the rumba. The rumba is labeled 1B 1A 2A 2B. The byebye is labelled 1B 1A 2B 2A. My understanding is the coils are A and B.

I'm interested in selling my Rigidbot Big. I'm located in Los Angeles by Santa Monica and Culver City. The RBB has numerous improvements: Meanwell power supply, 4 glass bed plates. 20T motor belt gears and metal idler arm brackets, ed3v6 extruder, SSR for heated bed, extruder spring spacer block, adjustable Z adjustment. Also has a bye bye board I never installed. I haven't touched the RBB in a long time, any offers for a home where it can get more use?

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Just upgraded my trusty IAP RB1 to a dual extruder setup (using Reliabuild3D parts) and wanted to mention that AFAIK none of the firmwares currently listed on the wiki would compile on the current Arduino IDE (1.8.5).

The RB1 firmware listed on https://reliabuild3d.com/firmware-links/ does compile OK.

Hint to +Heath Harper: I wish there were a changelog / feature matrix comparing all the FirmWare versions.

When I tried to compile the FWs listed on the wiki this is what would produce:

Arduino: 1.8.5 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

from sketch\cardreader.h:6,

from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:37:

SdBaseFile.h:38: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

_extension_ typedef long long fpos_t;

^

exit status 1
using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
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Hello everyone. After two months of inactivity, today I printed an object, and after two hours I went to see the results.
The WORST object ever printed. It seems like at a certain time, suddenly the layers started to shift upwards/downwards randomly in the Y-Axes.
No idea at the moment. What I see in the upper part is that the layers did not shifted always in the same direction, but randomly inverted the shift direction.

- MOTOR STEPPER Issue ?
- Stepper power voltage ?
- Belt issue ?

No idea :(

So, what is generally the reason of missing or added steps ?

Regards.
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10/02/18
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