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How Can Augmented Reality Enhance #3DPrinting? ::

I have finally moved from PLA to ABS on my everything original Rigidbot and immediately stuck with the problem of the extrusion stopping after a couple of hours of printing. It's hard to push the filament in even by hands. Tried to search the Community, but gave up after the first hundred of posts.

Can you help me understand what's going on from your ABS experience? The temperature is 225C (increased to 228C to compensate for the cooling fan dropping it down when on), no curling/warping over the fresh blue masking tape and 80C table. The part is printed perfectly for ~300 0.2mm layers (about 3 hours) and then the extrusion almost stops (dripping occasionally).

It is surely possible that the nozzle clogs, as that ABS filament spool was sitting in my storage for about 2 years in its factory triple plastic protection and oxygen absorber pouch. I found that the last plastic film stripe used for the spool protection has permanently adhered to the top layer of the filament, which also made it brittle, so I had to dispose about 10 meters of contaminated filament from the top layer, but some bits of polyethylene might remain invisible (is that normal, by the way, or perhaps that ABS filament is a total junk?). However, after cooling down I can print again without nozzle cleaning, just forcing the filament in manually to prime it on the table.

Could that be the PTFE inner tubing constriction? But what's causing it? I've noticed that the ABS flows very fluidly, almost like with the water bubbling on contact. Is that normal? Or that's just some visual effect, like glare? When the head is in the air the filament stream looks normal. My speculation is that such a fluid ABS (or, perhaps, polyethylene chunks are melting) can go up the PTFE under the pressure and (semi)solidify constricting the path. After full curing there and adhering to the fresh filament it goes down with my manual push effort and melts normally.

Inspecting the two failed parts reveals no any impurities trace. Parts looks almost perfect where printed.

Hey all,

My heated bed in RB first version (the kickstarter campaign) fried in this exact way as described here in the wiki:

I tried fixing it as described according to "Peter Stoneham's Hard Wire solution" but I'm afraid I did a poor job with the soldering and don't dare to test it as it might short and cause even more damage.

I tried to contact inventapart if they could send me a new heated bed, but after several emails they still haven't replied...

Does anybody know where I could buy a new (and hopefully improved) heated bed? Alternatively, if not, can anybody share the designs for the heated bed so I could try printing it myself?



Quick question, I am working on the Z-probe "leveling". I am having an issue to where the nozzle is always off the bed by a set distance. The setting that I believe needs to be adjusted is Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, but altering the value does not seem to adjust how far I end up off the bed air printing. I have confirmed the firmware is updating and uploading via the Arduino IDE. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?

Working out dual extrusion on my Rigidbot! Huge shoutout to +Heath Harper for all his help! After I fried my mainboard, he let me send him my heated bed (where the short happened) and tested it at the risk of his components, and fixed the issues he found on it! Less than a week after shorting my board, the new one I bought and my repaired bed were already back on my doorstep! Incredible customer service through and through!

Side note: has anyone run into an issue when slicing with Cura, where you can print via Pronterface but loading gcode onto the USB will not print? It's not an issue with the USB drive, its been reformatted, and I can read and select the gcode on the machine. But once I click the gcode, it just sits there.

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Here is how flat and level you can get the new milled bed plate on an RBB3 Dual. This is with the new flat aluminum bed, new flat bed carriage, new bed PCB, and new flat extruder carriage.

This printer bed was compensated for a slight thermal expansion warp at 45C and 60C for a .075mm deviation. You can see the slight deviation to the middle left in the first white pattern printed. The orange pattern shows the improvement. The result was repeatable after a complete cool down and reheat cycle.

The pattern was printed in both colors with equal results and the idle head did not scrape up what was printed by the other. The pattern was printed tall enough to go through a full bed temp change and stabilize from 60 to 45 to test for any layer adhesion issues as the bed cooled to below the glass temp for PLA. There were no issues. First layer height was set at 0.2mm which came out pretty even across the entire print area with remaining layers at 0.1mm.

I'm very pleased with the results.
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Here are my results from dialing in the Dual Head Big I was running the bed heating time trials on from the previous post. This one is basically a ReliaBuild 3D Big Dual (RBB3 Dual) but with the old RBB steel frame.

I applied the same techniques used on the RB3 dual (previous post) to a Big with a little fine tuning to the retraction settings with excellent results.

The ooze shield ended up with a few branches poking out but more importantly was a nice pale orange indicating a very precise blend of the white and orange. The cone was pretty much in perfect alignment with no over or under extrusion of either filament.

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How thin of a layer can our printers handle? Well, at least 0.05mm which beats the 0.06mm listed minimum of some other printers.

I printed a 36mm diameter sphere with a flattened bottom using a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.05 layer thickness to see how fine a surface I could get on a gradually changing slope or gradient going both directions. Used a 0.1mm first layer height.

At the very top of the sphere on the last two or three layers there is a little deformation from the width of the nozzle being so close to the area being printed and the longer dwell time of the hot nozzle in such a small space. A good part cooling fan duct really helps here. Over all it came out really nice even on the back side of the bottom half. Feels quite smooth to the touch.

Next series of tests on this ability is to try this with a 0.3mm and a 0.2mm nozzle to push the overhang limits. Then some fine details and bridging tests.

I really like the range of control we can get out of our printers.
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New to the community here - just got a working RBB two days ago for $200.

According to the seller, he got it during the Kickstarter campaign straight from the manufacturer here in Utah, and he hasn't ever upgraded the firmware.

The heated bed melted the cable (not a huge concern because I mostly print small things in PLA), and it has the original power supply.

Anyone have some advice on tightening the Y axis belt (the one for the print bed)? It's pretty loose, causing layer skipping. The idler doesn't have any more room to tighten. Do I really have to take apart the whole bed structure to get to the belt connector, or can I just turn the machine on its side? I'm thinking about pulling the belt out, cutting it shorter, and then just re-connecting it.

Any favorite mods for print cooling?

Thanks for your help.

Hi everybody, I made a dumb mistake, after changing the interior of the printer (RB1) to a cleaner layout, I accidentally plugged the power supply into the board the wrong way. I found out pretty soon, switched off and replugged it in the correct way and pretty much all appeared to work ok, BUT unfortunately not all. The y axis and Z axis are not working correctly now. X axis is ok. I can move the extruder along the x axis like it should, but z axis is not working at all, only if I help turn the threaded rod manually. Same with y.
Any help? Printer is standard RB1 with standard firmware. btw. heating works ok as well. (switched the cables for the x-axis with the others and than the others work ok, as well, so it seems to be a board related problem).
regards Peta.
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