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Jon Car

General discussion  - 
 
I am trying to print this frame in Cura and the supports are all screwed up when I try to print using my printer bot simple. Any suggestions?
This is an 82mm ducted brushless frame! It's like a Tiny Whoop but with all the features of the big boys. Featuring a FuriousFPV Piko BLX F3 flight controller, it flies how you want and is tune-able! You can even use the iLap transponder than comes with the Piko BLX. Full description, flight videos, component list, and build tips at The Short Crayon Designs Website RCGroups Thread Frame Kits, LED setup, and prop cutter available at Winder Wond...
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Jak Grimm

General discussion  - 
 
This is a good opportunity to purchase some excellent books for Makers. Check it out.
Feed your creative side with books from Make: and support charity!
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Michael Johnson's profile photo
 
Bad certificate errors , anyone else getting these?
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Mike Miller

General discussion  - 
 
+Gina Häußge What's the best way to propose a feature? I may be jumping the gun, but the combination of my printer, my skillset and Octoprint mean that I'm mostly doing the same two or three steps over and over (because everything is dependable)...would changing the 'drag and drop behavior' to include a zone for 'Drag, Drop and Print' be a good or bad idea? (As the printer clobbers that print you forgot to remove or airprints because you forgot to re-apply your hairspray...)
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Gina Häußge's profile photoMike Miller's profile photo
2 comments
 
I don't know why I didn't think that...but I could find no other breadcrumbs on Patreon or G+
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AlohaMilton

General discussion  - 
 
If you make an enclosure, dont forget to retune the PID for the new environment! I know a few have socked/bagged/wrapped their printers lately, I did as well.

Re Tuning the PID is showing much better surface quality and a much better temp readout.

Some of you probably do that by habit, others are maybe just developing this habit or it slipped their mind. Just a friendly reminder :)
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kenneth rooks's profile photo
 
Thanks! I totally forgot!
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Michael Scholtz

General discussion  - 
 
China must be laughing it's head off at the idea of open source hardware. They can now copy the designs they used to copy by reverse engineering without any worry and now they get the plans.

Take the E3D hot end. There's a large push for people to use the original not the China clones, quality of the original is undisputed but so is the cost advantage of the Chinese clones. It's an unfortunate side effect that your R&D ends up as a 0 cost gain and then when you're competing with an industry that will make 10 000 copies as a test run, how do you make it viable.

Saying a copy is junk and won't work as well means noting when you can buy the copy for a fraction of the cost, you're going to be tempted to try one and see. Also as there are thousands of them getting one in your country is also a lot easier. 
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Michael Scholtz's profile photoPeter Gillespie's profile photo
25 comments
 
Thing is a good company in US/Europe can compete with China on cost when materials aren't critical. (China is lower cost because they often don't used spec'd materials.) Some guys I work with can get things manufactured in Italy or the US cheaper than in China/Asia. Basic aluminum extrusions are fully automated, so labor is almost nil. 
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william foster

General discussion  - 
 
I decided to give those fancy spinning tops a go.
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Carlton Dodd's profile photoJeff Parish's profile photo
3 comments
 
Pretty cool.  The development video on Thingiverse is quite interesting.
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Michael Scholtz

General discussion  - 
 
Damn I need to change my Z Axiz design. It's been good and I thought I could fix the remaining vertical artifacts by going to 12mm bearings from 8mm but alas there seems to be more play in them and bushings drag too much. Any suggestions for something that would go in this frame. 
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Michael Scholtz's profile photoStephanie S's profile photo
19 comments
 
That's a big difference, well worth the effort. 
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Alexander Merz

General discussion  - 
 
Fischertechnik announced a 3D printer kit in january. The printer will be avaible in the next days, but the company already send me one of the first kits for a review. Here is a first look at the printer.
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Ax Smith-Laffin's profile photoB SHAH's profile photo
7 comments
B SHAH
 
3d parenting not work smooth but technologies good...
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Luis S.

General discussion  - 
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Craig Hissett's profile photoKevin Chan's profile photo
6 comments
 
Wow! Looks fantastic!
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Ronny Jay

General discussion  - 
 
I'm building a small scale model of a movie theater interior. I need seats, platforms, wall treatments etc. I'm pretty technically savvy, but 3d printing is new to me. I would appreciate a recommendation for an inexpensive 3D printer. OR…. a resource for ordering custom made pieces. Thank you.
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Daniel Bull's profile photo
 
Printrbot Play for an inexpensive printer. Shapeways for a service that prints custom pieces.
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Shai Schechter

General discussion  - 
 
If you're in NYC today, come to the Fat Cat Fab Lab in the city for the pre-makerfaire meetup! Joel, Jerry from Nerdgasm and a few others will be there. https://www.meetup.com/MatterHackers-Open-House-3D-Printing-Meetup/events/233316854/
Join us as we celebrate Maker Week in New York City! MatterHackers will be flying East to host a special edition of Fat Cat Fab Lab's regular "3D Thursday" event, and bring with us a few friends you're gonna want to meet! Everyone's in town for Maker Faire, so joining us for the night will be the crew from Ultimaker, Lulzbot, and SeeMeCNC, sharing their latest 3D Printers and answering your questions. After mingling and munchies, the headline pr...
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Matthew Del Rosso

General discussion  - 
 
hey guys. i was woundering if anyone knows (or diy it) if there are any upgrades to have mulit material extrusion options for printrbot simple metal. its not so much for different color , as to have a different material for supports. any ideas. I really wish printrbot would make an official thing for this like they added a heated bed option. its something most 3d printer enthusiasts would love, and would probably bring in lots of money. 
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Jeff DeMaagd's profile photoMatthew Del Rosso's profile photo
4 comments
 
+Jeff DeMaagd ya i see what u mean. im going to keep looking. hopefully ill find somthing.
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Ariel Yahni

General discussion  - 
 
A couple of us where discussing a solution to multi filament with a single nozzle a couple of weeks ago. This seems a very elegant solution
 
Let’s talk multi-material printing on desktop 3D printers. There are a lot of problems when printing in more than one color. The easiest way to do this is simply to add another extruder and hotend to a printer, but this reduces the build volume, adds more…
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Nick Parker's profile photoThantiK's profile photo
8 comments
ThantiK
 
+Nick Parker I did it back on my Prusa i2 way way way back. I installed stacking headers on my allegro drivers, stacked them, and pulled out the enable pins to enable each driver individually.
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Taylor Landry

General discussion  - 
 
This was a fun and satisfying design/print job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNfl58AxHHg
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Reinhard “Barmonster” Mitschang's profile photoMatthew Del Rosso's profile photo
3 comments
 
+Reinhard Mitschang ya i did too as soon as i saw it. everyone around me hates it when i click my pen. but i need to lol im addicted to clicking things.
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Claas Thomsen

General discussion  - 
 
Do you dry your filament?
259 votes  -  votes visible to Public
Oven
5%
Silikat Gel
23%
Dried fruit oven
3%
No
61%
Other
8%
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Dont Miyashita's profile photoBruce Jackson's profile photo
16 comments
 
The filamentbunker keeps your filament dry and dust free while printing https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/filamentbunker/bunker-your-3d-printers-perfect-companion
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Richard Gain

General discussion  - 
 
 
Remember this?
I went on a little nostalgia trip this weekend. Now I remember why I used to hate printing with ABS. We're spoiled for choice with new materials now. Just listen to it cooling!
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Ax Smith-Laffin's profile photoJake Smith's profile photo
4 comments
 
That sound! 😥
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AlohaMilton

General discussion  - 
 
MeltedKoss!

Forgot to insulate the corners from the heatbed! DOH! Thought of it, realized I needed to, a few test prints is all... was what I was thinking just before I forgot... this was after maybe 12-15 hours of printing with the bed too hot at 65c didn't even need it really, 45c or so would have done the job I needed. PLA box 150mm x 120mm and tall enough to take 10 hours (duet case on .14 going for a super nice surface). Noticed bad layers but it was still actually printing reasonably well, as the motors pivoted skyward...

Live and learn :) this DIY was first of all to teach me about this, I learned something so still on the right track.

For now the insulation plumbers use to put behind pipes they are brazing might do the job nicely. Plumber told me about it once related to another project but from the description, thin sheet that resists the heat from a blowtorch to preserve wall building materials, it might be really good for this at totally isolating the heat zones of bed and motors.

I need some of that to try out, anyone tried it already? Looking on Amazon... 1000c resistance 'felt plumbers pad' showing the stuff with a blowtorch on it, but over 15 hours how much heat transfer? Buildup of heat? Will it break down? various materials available... any recommendations besides felt plumbers pad that is cheap? I think I have seen cork used... is that a good material? does it burn or char over long term use? I plan on using some fans on the motor side of it all, tight fitting insulation against the bed. Sound ok or is there a better method?

going to loose build height, 10mm or so, but sort of no choice if I want to print anything really big and tall and have a flat base. 5 hours no problem but 10 hours at 150mm wide with no heated bed and the corners will lift, ever so slightly to 'omg NOOOOOOO YOU UGLY HORROR!!!!' it's a bit random but it just won't lay flat reliably to prototype versus troubleshoot.
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Duncan Gunn's profile photoAlohaMilton's profile photo
12 comments
 
+Duncan Gunn we think alike. designed braces from the side extrusions to the motors a few days ago even before this melted corner incident, working out the tensioning, set screws or threaded rod to motor, possible plate of copper as interface/heatsink.

but for a holistic approach, i am thinking bent steel plate corners, simplest lowest energy budget most recyclable strongest... not many reasons to not go make some or commission them. just to easy.
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Matthew Del Rosso

General discussion  - 
 
hey guys. In regards to my last post I belive that we solved the problem. It seems to have been just a temp issue I was printing at 175C and the ideal tempIi found seems to be 185C. im mid print right now and all seems good. Thanks for the help😊
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Jeff Parish's profile photoMatthew Del Rosso's profile photo
20 comments
 
+Jeff Parish cool thanks
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Lukas Mathis

General discussion  - 
 
Printer was printing a raft. This particular slicer prints a pretty thick first layer on the raft, and the nozzle was a bit too low to begin with. The E3D boot touched the extruded plastic, which pulled it off the heater block, and caused PLA to be extruded into the boot. Something to look out for.

Hopefully, a future version of the boot with connect to the heater block a bit more tightly.

I'll probably cut off part of the silicone that covers the nozzle. It interferes with the airflow from my cooling fan anyway, and prevents PLA from being properly cooled on the side opposite of the fan; the silicone around the nozzle acts as a windshield.
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Lukas Mathis's profile photoRichard Horne's profile photo
8 comments
 
I'm fixing them with some twisted copper wire - wrapped around the bottom and twisted on the top - just don't short out the heater or temp sensor with the wire.
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