Encountered a strange fault/error running PID auto tune in Marlin. Even the base command M303 with no extra parameters returns "Autotune failed. Temperature to high ! " +Thomas Sanladerer or any other Marlin pros have a clue where I should start looking ?
Wife: That really repetitive music that's playing is getting really annoying! Me: [Puzzled look, checks headphones on bench are off] What music? Wife: That durr durr durr ... durr durr durr... durr durr durr Me: [Walk over] Have you left a phone off the hook? Wife: No, it's stopped now, it was like nerrr nerrr nerrrr.. [3D Printer gets to the same point in print of my CF card holder] Wife: There it is again! Me: Do you mean that? [Points at printer] Wife: [Facial expression says it all] !!!
Guess I better get the old dishwasher carcass as printer housing up the priority list! It's 50db over by her desk.
HM, Tom prefers the spreadCycle mode of this driver, which is also a sinosoidal waveform, not a fullstep mode. From my understanding the same current integral should be same torque (minus vibrations) - anyway - I talked to Watterott and I understood, they will have these things on stock again soon. Guess they where busy with the raspberry birthday:)
I've learned a valuable lesson. While I'm still trying to absorb all the tips you guys gave me in the last few days I decided to try printing something fun, a hoverboard. After a disappointing initial outcome, painful clean-up and messy result (all pictured) I stumble across a stupidly simple idea. Eliminate the need for support structure! Break up the hoverboard into 4 parts (3 levels) and print separately. Super glue each level (1 board, 1 base, 2 disks) and voilà! Super-clean results. Didn't take any photos, but it's very neat. I found that if I set software to print one object at the time gives better results instead of jumping between objects which tends to cause warping... I'm guessing due to cooling.
I've found that air duster and component freezer is really expensive. So an easier, cheaper, and more dangerous way to take your stuck print off the bed is by using butane lighter refill gas... It works. Just be careful.
I've seen it, but when i've started, nothing was released yet. and as i'm a impatient guy... :)
i've take a look at the ciclop firmware, if all are so complete and well done, it will be surely be a reference.
I'm impatient to see the application that goes with it, and how they manage to remove noise, reconstruct meshes and do the calibration ( my 3 bigest problem ;) ) i hope they have solutions and don't rely on meshlab to reconstruct the stl.
Is it 3D printer sex when you see it making another printer. Either way the printer is copulating to make the 25mm version. Size I'm going for is 450 wide by 28 deep (have a glass plate that comes from the inside of an oven door so heating won't be a problem. And that's how big it is) Hight I haven't decided yet. I don't think I ever print over 300 high but just in case I'm thinking about 400 - 450mm high
BOUGHT A NEW ULTIMAKER 2 AND I'M SELLING FILAMENT & BLUE TAPE FROM MY FORMER Makerbot 5Gen 3D Printer
Brand new 4 PLA filament for Makerbot 5th Generation 3D Printer. The filament still in the box & sealed. Colours : True Red - PLA- 0.9 Kg (2lb) True yellow- PLA- 0.9 Kg (2lb) True white- PLA- 0.9 Kg (2lb) True Black- PLA- 0.9 Kg (2lb)
€ 35,00 each spool. € 10,00 3 Blue tape packs ( with 10 sheets each pack)
+Claas Kuhnen I haven't had any jams while printing with a loose roll but I've had one come close because the filament was crossed. The main issue with loose rolls is that I can't put it on my lazy susan, so I'm constantly freeing up slack every 5-10 minutes. I'm not a huge fan of DiamondAge's cardboard spools but they work well and their PLA is nice, so I can't see myself stopping any time soon.
Why can't we 3D print this yet? Wait, somebody is trying that: https://markforged.com/ I see some filaments are out there also. Anybody experience on it? Still a long way to go, or can we start to experiment ourselves on a prusa i3...
I've seen the mark forged in person and talked at length with a couple of the guys. The most interesting guy was the guy that wrote the software / firmware. They are super secretive but they will show you pets they made. Brian and I looked at the parts and it renders an incredibly strong part. Not good for everything but really good for some things.
Basically, they have two heads. One extrudes a continuous string/weave? of plastic-encased carbon fiber (or what have you). It lays down a layer of that in a neat spiral shape or whatever-- all in one layer. this is where the custom software blows my mind. Then it cuts the string and moves to the other extruder for regular plastic.
Really neat. Really patented all to heck.
Did I mention they are super secretive... They remove critical parts, cover things with black cardboard, never show it printing.... Drives me nuts.