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I would Love to see whatever "metal" 3D prints you guys have done and how you did your finishing touches on them. Anyone care sharing? :)
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AlohaMilton

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Well darn, got a bad soldered heatbed off Amazon :o(

Wondering if it's even safe to use?
Bought from Amazon seller 'TriGorilla' who I cannot recommend. Look at that solder, it's like a child was being taught to solder, then they sent the thing to me. Either that or it was a home soldered 'kit' unit that was returned, then sent to me. Maybe both, home soldered by 12 year old, then returned to Amazon, then sent to me? I dunno but it looks so bad I am wary of using this thing. Is this even safe?

Return? Resolder? Use it? I don't have a desolder pump and don't want to buy a tool that costs as much as the darn heatbed just to fix it. Any other no cost method?

Also look at those wire ends, that is how it arrived. So disappointed.
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AlohaMilton's profile photoAlan Thomason's profile photo
7 comments
 
+AlohaMilton the damage was not too bad - it's already back in the air.
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Michael Marino

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Working on my 1st 3D printer and building a Delta. One item I am running into is finding a breakout board in the 3D community that can handle minimum 48V and 1.68A or 60V and 1.25A. As the Nema17 motors that i am looking at have a sweet spot of either 50V (Going to use 48V as power supplies are easy to get for that) or 60V. As such I am willing to use standard CNC drivers but the issue is either I use a separate rail to power the drives and set up the pins independently for the controls. This Delta is going to be driven by Ball screws (1204).

Equation that I am using for finding the Voltage is the square root of inductance * 32.
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Adam Steinmark

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Taulman3d N-vent vs Colorfabb XT? Looks like they're both made from the same polymer (Amorpha AM1800 by Eastman) and roughly the same price depending on where you buy. Colorfabb in the US can be bought from Printed Solid for $45 per 750g spool ($60 per kg). N-vent can be bought from Amazon Prime for different prices averaging $23.50 for a 1lb spool ($51.80 per kg).
28 votes  -  votes visible to Public
N-vent
39%
XT
61%
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Ax Smith-Laffin's profile photoAdam Steinmark's profile photo
13 comments
 
+Ax Smith-Laffin Yeah it seems like everyone is saying that it's much better than PETG but I'm not sure the difference justifies the price, but there's only one way to find out. E3D sells the filament $10 USD cheaper per spool but the cheapest shipping (non tracked) is $13 USD. So it's $3 more and shipping is gonna take forever, I'd rather get it from Printed Solid which is one state over and ships for free.
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Tim Sills

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Check out this Auto Change plate...

While looking at the 86duino video +Mike Miller posted the other day, I saw another vid in the channel that shows an auto change plate. Very cool. I didn't see anything elsewhere on this though.
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Nathan Walkner's profile photoRyan Carlyle's profile photo
6 comments
 
+Nathan Walkner It's an absurdly broad patent, any mechanism to move the build surface into / out of the print volume (like a conveyor or CNC pallet changer) infringes. You can see in the video here that the print surface is being moved through the build volume. WOULD be nice to get more details though. Looks like of like a vacuum platen holding down a sheet of non-adhesive kapton.
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Oeyvind H

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Good day 3D Printing Community!!

I'm a student of Industrial Design, This year i'm studying Prospectiva and one of the topics is the delphi survey, because I have a small Prusa from a year ago and 3D printing is a relatively recent topic I wanted to do my research on this.

I have a small survey that I hope you can help me answer so I can continue my school work, is quite short, 6 questions.

Thank You in advance!
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Norbert Davis

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Same 3D model, same settings, same printer, just different brands of PLA filament. DK Blue is Hatchbox Blue (Pantone Blue 072C) and the LT Blue is MakeShaper Blue (Pantone Blue 285C).

There may not be a huge difference in the print quality between the two but there is a noticeable difference throughout the print.

My wife preferred the Hatchbox kitty to the MakeShaper one based on the overall aesthetics and feel of each print. The gloss and smoothness of the Hatchbox filament was more appealing to her than the matte and rougher feel of the MakeShaper filament.

Overall I prefer the Hatchbox brand filament over MakeShaper's, however the MakeShaper filament performed fairly well and did make for a decent print.

So if you are concerned about aesthetics then go with the Hatchbox PLA and if not then the MakeShaper will surely suit your needs.

#Hatchbox #MakeShaper #3DPrinting #MakerSelectMini
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AlohaMilton's profile photo
22 comments
 
Doh, ok I could be more accurate I guess, I thought the bulb said 100w, it's really bright and hard to see the writing on the side of the plastic base, It is actually a 'Duracell Ultra Mercury CFL 15w' so what I thought was 100 was a 15, and my eyes hurt and I see spots now from checking :p. If I turn it off to check... I can't see it! where is that damn flashlight? Anyway it seems pretty warm for 15w but it could be warmer, but its on all the time so it does keep the box warm which was what I noticed when changing a spool. Might up it to something slightly warmer though its well within safe ranges for the PP storage box.
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Mike Miller

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So..uh...what printers are these? They look amazing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ_rsnrmDwQ
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Luis S.

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ChubChubLolly (ben farmer)

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Hey,
not sure if i can post this here , But i have a kossel mini 3d printer for sale I'm looking for about £125-150 but open to offers . It was in kit form and i built it but have never had the time to fully calibrate it and now i think its time to pass it along to someone who has time to . it only needs a new extruder but i have the motor for it . It also comes with a BLtouch auto leveling sensor. Please contact me on my email ben_farmer3@hotmail.com or text me at 07999312848

Thanks
Ben
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Hassan Jodat's profile photo
5 comments
 
black dicks and hot chicks010 2
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Charlotte Hudges

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I just found this handy blog post about how to find the best 3D modeling software. Thought it could be interesting for some of you guys: https://i.materialise.com/blog/best-3d-modeling-software/
We often get asked this question: “What is the best 3D modeling software?” The ugly truth is, “It depends.” We can’t tell you which software you should use. But we can tell you how to find it!…
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Taylor Landry

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Anyone know what's going on with MadeSolid? Appears they may have gone the way of Solidoodle...
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Sekar S

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Designed one new bearing. Found to be good. Can be found at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1742627



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René Jurack

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Definitively worth a read, if you are into 3d-printing: http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/
In partnership with: Improving the mechanical performance of a printed part often comes at the expense of printing speed, affordability and quality. In this study we quantify the impact of diffe…
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Daid Braam's profile photoRyan Carlyle's profile photo
8 comments
 
+Daid Braam Exactly, you really need to do four-point bending, shear, AND tension tests, in at lease three infill orientations, to get a good sense of the overall properties.

Another issue no one has mentioned yet is that polymer failure data varies enormously with the rate the load is applied. PLA has vastly different elongation at break, UTS, etc depending on whether it's a shock load or slow/creeping load.
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Mark Wheadon

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Wow -- I thought Taulman were OK for quality control? Just had no end of problems which turned out to be my new roll of Bridge Nylon. All became clear when the filament was binding in the feed tube to the hot end.

Measuring the piece that was in the feed tube, it's 2.04mm diameter at one point! And only 1.66mm diameter half a meter later (should be 1.75mm). You don't need to measure, it's clear to the naked eye it's so far out -- see the picture of the length that was in my feed tube -- spot the thin and the thick end.

I'm supposed to be doing some high priority prints for someone over the Bank Holiday Weekend, but that's not going happen now, so I'm unimpressed.

I expect this of ultra-cheap filament, but not Taulman Nylon. Looks like they don't check it with lasers as some others do nowadays?
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Tom Martz (taulman)'s profile photoBjörn Marl's profile photo
23 comments
 
+Tom Martz The shop i bought it from took care.
 
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Chinang Ma

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This was originally a 3D model by Al Meerow (SciFi3D.com). I combined all pieces into a manifold model and gave it a inner shell for printing. Final model size ~21 inches long.
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Samer Najia's profile photo
4 comments
 
Bummer
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AlohaMilton

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MiltyKoss unit 1 is alive! I still need to get some stuff taken care of to calibrate, some decisions to make. Hoping you all can help!

Questions:

Printer needs a 12v heat bed, recommendations?

I am running this without any LCD on a Duet 0.8.5, thoughts on that? Issues I might have with no LCD? I have a touch screen tablet with full USB and networking that runs windows 7 that I plan on using as a dedicated printer server, so I can use that for the web interface (Fujitsu T901, older but pretty nice for this function).

I am confused by the inductive sensor and the Duet, can anyone confirm wiring color code on a LJ12A3-4-Z/BX? I am using the E0 endstop per DC42's comments on the RepRap forum.

Are the plastic jumper connectors usually used for breadboards OK for dc 12v fan under .6a? They are well crimped, but worried about heat long term.

Thanks y'all, great community here I appreciate all the help getting this far on this build.
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Ryan Carlyle's profile photoNathan Walkner's profile photo
6 comments
 
+AlohaMilton laminate a thin steel plate to the top of the aluminum plate using high temp adhesive or epoxy or make sure there is a countersunk bolt or something in the sensor area
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Tim Sills

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Unless I'm overlooking this in S3D, I really wish you could also set the pattern density for support structures instead of having to manually remove them. I like to typically space them out by a few mm knowing I can easily bridge that. I didn't see anything under the support tab within the machine settings.
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Aric Norine's profile photo
7 comments
 
S3d puts a nice dense roof onto sparse infill support. Leave all the pillars dense, crank down the support density. Perfect, fast results.
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Taylor Landry

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This print is going to put me over 6,000 hours on my trusty ol' Rostock Max v1.

And there's still something so satisfying about a great first layer...
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Taylor Landry's profile photoJon Gritton's profile photo
10 comments
 
I love a good first layer. Although it does set you up for a fall when layer 382 goes horribly, horribly wrong... :)
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AlohaMilton

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plugging main power into new controller... nervously... did the usb firmware 5v thing but now it's going to get full 12v through main terminal. I am sort of scared... and i don't know why, i have volt modded video cards that cost twice as much. hacked up atx supplies into bench power and project power units. this trepidation makes no sense :P

anyone else have a project stall and you just cannot make sense of the reason in the moment?
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