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Mark Wheadon

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Something that's difficult to get over to others sometimes: how when you have a 3D printer, pretty much anything in the house can be bespoke. There's a feel-good factor to "I made that".
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Hakan Evirgen's profile photo
 
Great idea! 
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william foster

Development  - 
 
anyone up for the challenge of making an extruder utilise something like this.
heck i might give it a shot if i could figure the firmware out. 
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Ishaan Gov's profile photoJohan Jakobsson's profile photo
5 comments
 
For direct extrusion with a remote motor there's the Flex3Drive. 
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Hi,
near to one month ago I had an idea, it could make a new kind of hotend to FDM/FFF plastic extrusion 3D printing due to currently this technique for printing is really slow.

Then I reached the conclusion the solution is to use an elongated nozzle array that extrude the plastic and use a needles like valves for a selective extrusion, in practice this system is like many nozzles next to each other and that means that it could even print a part layer in a single swept.

At the begining I though about use a dot matrix headprint like actuator of the needles, but now it doesn't seems good idea for me, although maybe it is a well solution.

Below you can see a drawing of the first developments:


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IfLN6QBEgAM/V-1c3S9kKHI/AAAAAAAACRc/pkEKyPu7KSwhCts5zY9KHXmJjeqS4FR4gCLcB/s400/nuevo%2Btipo%2Bde%2Bextrusor.jpg





I hope that the basic principle has been made clear.

After tha I made a break of 2 weeks to learn CAD make a basic 3D model of the nozzle.

FreeCAD nozzle archive

https://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d/attach/1f6c341b9affde/nozzle_y_agujas.fcstd?part=0.1&authuser=0

If you use transparency with the nozzle you can see the inlet conduit of plastic goes to almost nozzle outlet, that is because the nature of this nozzle otherwise if there was a section between the regulatory area and nozzle output the plastic may jam gue to the high viscosity of thermoplastics.

Here I leave other model made with FreeCAD that now includes the heater block (this need be reviewed).

FreeCAD nozzle + heater block archive

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwFKAm1jvpt9VjhZRHF4Y0F6TkU


I going to put here some drawings that I drew today to explain better my concept:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Sfhx5wzk4zY/V-1qhVya25I/AAAAAAAACRs/6QRWfWkw93wQCGFRw6dfKLuPbY8G93_zACLcB/s1600/skechtb.jpg


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_9YCdN5MYEU/V-1r6tEH7zI/AAAAAAAACR4/NuF7ikoKSlgdCKN3Ol6trGmMgvBXLzBmACLcB/s1600/skechtc.jpg



(Yes, you need know spanish if you can understand the pictures)


Here you can see the advantage of use a nozzle array against use a single nozzle like now:



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b2YmvDVzbwk/V-15gdtakKI/AAAAAAAACSI/3AGr2IDUQrIsZexvJG-AuvbZTNd38KNjACLcB/s400/comparacionb.jpg


You're invited to help in anything you want! Specially if you are skilled in CAD desing or you have experience with hotends and plastic extrusion



Thanks for your time, Javier.


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Okay, these are my boards and power supply for a kit printer that I bought. I realize that it was probably ill advised, but I'm enjoying playing with it and setting it up and everything as much as I've ever imagined myself enjoying a bunch of little plastic things, so I'm not upset or anything, and I'm actually looking forward to pulling out the meter and testing things, but I thought I'd ask here first before I got too far into it.

I tried twice to do a sample print, but on the first one the extruder didn't ever heat up enough and on the second attempt the whole thing powered off suddenly and without warning. The red flea light on the white board still comes on, so there's some amount of power somewhere although that doesn't tell me if there's enough. Any troubleshooting advice from anyone here?
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Pieter Koorts's profile photoMichael Johnson's profile photo
2 comments
 
Cooked my fuses and board until I bought a solid state relay. And I was using a 24 VDC PSU
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AlohaMilton

General discussion  - 
 
Tapped all the extrusions, really like how just a mild amount of pull snugs the extrusions up against the new lower corners. Took 3 days of learning about ABS and 2 different filament brands, but getting 'good enough' prints to at least get the other printer back up and running.

Atomic ABS, really like it any imperfections are the cantilevered failing bearings and pulleys on my clone i3. Micro Swiss and Atomic ABS are a great functioning combo. No supports needed unless its a reversed overhang that needs a starting point.

Hand tapping aluminum extrusion ends. Use a M3 taper tap. Gradually cuts threads using a taper as the name implies. Bottoming tap has full width threads at start and is harder to tap with but allows screws to be inserted deeper. Use a taper tap, there is risk enough of breaking a tap especially learning how. Maybe even drill out some 2.5mm holes in scrap and practice a few times. I did my first time around and it helped. If you have really long screws and need the extra thread space use a bottoming tap after a taper tap so it has established threads to work with.

To tap, start with a drop of oil into the hole in the extrusion, always make sure to use oil each time you insert the tap to cut. The first cut go about 8mm, retract and clean, 5mm, retract and clean, and the last few mm to bottom a taper tap and chase the threads, and clean.

If you don't retract and clean you can break the tap in the threads, you REALLY don't want to do that so be patient and use more not less time. I am not sure extraction would be possible, and you would lose the ability to ever use the extrusion center hole for anything.

Again use a drop of oil or thread cutting fluid every time the tap goes in. It helps it cut smoothly and avoids heating and swelling of the tap binding it.

Clean running hot water through and over them, dry with a shop vac and towel. Job done :o)

Still assembling, should be up and running again tomorrow (I hope but do not expect, ain't going to rush it).

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Ariel Yahni

General discussion  - 
 
Just got an email from this guys. Does anyone have a success story? 
1
Cliff Bramlett's profile photo
 
Haven't heard of them, but that doesn't mean much.
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Primož Brglez

Show-n-tell  - 
 
I'm liking the Fuzzy Skin experimental feature in Cura. What do you think?
11
Torleif Ceder's profile photoErik Cederberg's profile photo
8 comments
 
There is a bunch of other great features in the latest Cura beta (2.3), like gradient infill that changes the infill density depending on the distance to a top surface, and a option to z jump only on top surfaces to reduce scaring of top surfaces, also dual extrusion support is in Cura2 now!
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Shai Schechter

General discussion  - 
 
If you're in NYC today, come to the Fat Cat Fab Lab in the city for the pre-makerfaire meetup! Joel, Jerry from Nerdgasm and a few others will be there. https://www.meetup.com/MatterHackers-Open-House-3D-Printing-Meetup/events/233316854/
Join us as we celebrate Maker Week in New York City! MatterHackers will be flying East to host a special edition of Fat Cat Fab Lab's regular "3D Thursday" event, and bring with us a few friends you're gonna want to meet! Everyone's in town for Maker Faire, so joining us for the night will be the crew from Ultimaker, Lulzbot, and SeeMeCNC, sharing their latest 3D Printers and answering your questions. After mingling and munchies, the headline pr...
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3D printing show in Warsaw Poland. World Guiness record in highest printed sculpture - 3m high Robert Lewandowski. 
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Michael Johnson

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Problem - stuff getting sucked into the intake of the tankless water heater.
Solution - window screen material held in place by ninjaflex insert.
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1
Bruce Moore's profile photoMichael Johnson's profile photo
2 comments
 
The catch basin for the intake (this one) drops into another Aluminum screen before dropping into a PVC elbow which goes into the burn chamber. I'll have take a close look to see if the copper piping would be affected by this modification. 
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A community centered around 3D Printing which is accessible to everyone. This includes open source designs, home built printers, and the sharing of information which helps everyone gain access to this wonderful technology. The people here are very enthusiastic about 3D Printing and always willing to help. Ask questions! Show us your ideas! Help advance what is possible! We have a strict policy on spam and irrelevant content; which includes closed source, patent encumbered development, and self-promotion - if the users cannot replicate what you're posting, it probably doesn't belong here. No analytic URL shorteners. This includes bit.ly, goo.gl, etc. This just goes to show that you're not interested in participation, but only how this community can benefit you. Links:

Jak Grimm

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Just spotted a rare albino #cyndaquil at #elwoodbeach #northrdbrighton. Looks like he was just coming out of the bay. If you find him, you can keep him! #3dprinted #3dprinting #lowpoly #colorfabbxt #pokemon
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Vic Bishop

Questions/Help  - 
 
Hi im pretty much new to 3d printing, i bought a prusa i3 copy of amazon and have enjoyed the build of the machine and also had fun experimenting with little things of thingyverse. But anytime i try printing something large or of a long print i get a jump out of alignment which sometimes isnt very far but sometimes quite big in terms of the size of the object which then ends in disaster.

Could this be the control board overheating? im not sure where to start
3
Peter Hanse's profile photoMr covert's profile photo
3 comments
 
Check everything is running silky smooth and that all belts have the right tension, not too tight, but not too loose
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Some more pictures of my new printer build.
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Jigar Jigar's profile photoJan erik Halvorsen's profile photo
2 comments
 
+Jigar Jigar You should start with a printer kit. Then you learn how a printer works.
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Nick Parker

Development  - 
 
Has anyone in here tried using an aquarium pump for cooling? See the article below for the general idea. I'm wondering if I could use a larger pump than he did (the AP300) to cool my print and its hotend, for a super tidy little toolhead. Also just curious about other people's experience with this setup.

http://www.tridimake.com/2016/05/3d-printing-cooling-with-air-pump-aquarium.html
3D printing cooled with an aquarium pump! It works well and it cannot be quieter. Even tough the pump is bulky, it is does not pollute the hot end. (the above was a preliminary experiment) Interestingly, while this trick is n...
2
Jeremie Francois's profile photoAndreas Thorn's profile photo
7 comments
 
I also use an unregulated aquarium pump. When I recently switched from printing ABS to PLA I skipped my previous fan setup and tried this out. I connected the pump via a silicone tube to a metal tube (suitable section from a toy rc antenna) directed just below the nozzle. The air stream is very focused and even though I have not done any extensive testing, it definately works for my every day prints.


Even though the pump is pretty low output I found I actually had to reduce the airflow with a simple valve to avoid getting nozzle jams with the PLA as it was cooled to much prior to the print starting.

I've still got a standard fan for the heat sink but I've got a dual output aquarium pump on the shelf ready for testing sometime (inspired by +Jeremie Francois blog)
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Adam Steinmark

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Finally got around to installing the X and Z upgrades to my Printrbot Simple Metal. New build volume is 6x10x10. I also decided to throw on their new aluminum gear head extruder which I have to say has phenomenal grip. I'm just waiting for my new BuildTak sheets to arrive. I also had to make it its own table since it outgrew my desk. I plan to make an enclosure for the printer eventually. I had to flash the new firmware though and now my LCD won't work and it seems like I'm not the only one with that problem. 
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Jon Car

General discussion  - 
 
I am trying to print this frame in Cura and the supports are all screwed up when I try to print using my printer bot simple. Any suggestions?
This is an 82mm ducted brushless frame! It's like a Tiny Whoop but with all the features of the big boys. Featuring a FuriousFPV Piko BLX F3 flight controller, it flies how you want and is tune-able! You can even use the iLap transponder than comes with the Piko BLX. Full description, flight videos, component list, and build tips at The Short Crayon Designs Website RCGroups Thread Frame Kits, LED setup, and prop cutter available at Winder Wond...
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1
Thomas Cox's profile photo
 
If you can get anything to print with supports you are doing better than me.

All kidding aside try the support generation in autodesk meshmixer 
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jouke hijlkema

Questions/Help  - 
 
This is doing my head in ... It happens only with this particular piece ( a 20 cm diameter pinion). All starts well but after 30 layers or so the top layer is translated by around 10 mm. I print PETG with an airwolf hd2x on a heated tempered glass plate. The glass plate does not seem to move (at least not 10 mm). Any help is welcome.
1
Tim Visiblé's profile photoArfst Braren's profile photo
11 comments
 
Try printing slower. 
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Demetris Stavrou

Questions/Help  - 
 
I was wondering about how long does the heated bed of the Prusa i3 Mk2 takes to heat up to 110 C for ABS. Any info on that? Thanks!
2
Jeff DeMaagd's profile photoDemetris Stavrou's profile photo
7 comments
 
+Jeff DeMaagd Thanks. Yes I agree with you, enclosure is a must for ABS. Actually I currently printing ABS well with my Mendel90 (enclosed) but I have to wait for the bed to heat up for about 10 minutes. This becomes problematic when you do 20-30 minute prints. For larger parts its OK.

Anyway, that is the reason I was wondering about the Prusa i3 Mk2.
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