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Lord_Vader

Questions/Help  - 
 
Well Ive tried different things now.
The problem is: When using a higher first layer temperature the hotend expands or contracts depending on the temperature which is obvious ^^
Now when changing filament from say pet which only needs 210 deg. On the first layer to nylon which needs way over 250 deg. I need to readjust the z-stop. The heatbed tells the same story but its just a matter of some 1/100mm which is OK.

Who else has this problem?
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Lord_Vader's profile photoMark Rehorst's profile photo
12 comments
 
When you change filament three things change. Extruder temperature, print bed temperature, and the filament diameter. The heater block is too small for its thermal expansion to make any visible difference in prints. It's possible your bed is warping depending on how it's made and how big the temperature change is. I've seen photos of prints with apparent Z wobble caused by poor regulation of bed temperature (as temperature changes, bed moves up and down modulating layer thickness), so a few degrees can cause the bed level to change in some printers.

I know both the spools say they are 1.75 mm, but they are almost never actually 1.75 mm diameter. They are never actually circular in cross section, either. Try measuring the filament with a caliper that can read 0.01 mm. Measure in 20-30 places changing the orientation of the caliper as you do, and calculate the average value. In over 3 years of printing I have had exactly one spool that averaged to 1.75 mm. A few tens of um in filament diameter will make an obvious difference in the prints. If you slice at 1.75 mm and the filament averages 1.72 mm diameter, the printer will visibly under extrude.
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Robert (RJ_Make)

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Probably not the best way but here is the way I use. How to manipulate STL files in Fusion 360 https://youtu.be/NTWZU-mPtw8 #3dprinting #3dprint #Fusion360 #drones #3dprinter
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Pieter Koorts

General discussion  - 
 
Looking into alternatives for the standard MGN12 rails and assuming the Igus drylin T low profile guides would the equivalent. Is it just me or are the Igus rails normally prohibitively expensive?

500mm MGN12 rails with carriage is about £40 but getting pricing for Igus rails on their site it is nearly double at £72 for the same length and carriage. (per rail and carriage so multiply by 3 for a delta example)

Is it really that good to be double the cost? Does anyone else here use Drylin T have any feedback on the quality?

Thanks
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Anthony Webb's profile photoJeff DeMaagd's profile photo
6 comments
 
There's MGN rails then there's MGN. So many are knock-offs that look like Hiwins and are numbered like them but they aren't. If you're willing to risk needing to buy spare rail or cars you might be OK. They are often coated in a sticky oil, so you will need to flush the bearings out for smooth operation.

Pacific Bearing has a GST line that might be an option. IGUS and PBC counterparts may or may not be drop-in replacements for the regular linear ball rail, I found that the hole patterns and threads didn't match industry norms for the size that I wanted.
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Shauki B

Custom-built & Reprap  - 
 
https://goo.gl/photos/14TpADcdH6w8rnqg6
The upgrade of #screwDelta  with a classic $3 hotend seems to be successful. Found out that this noise comes from the balls of the bearings of the steppers -- nothing to do against, or?
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Francis Lee's profile photoShauki B's profile photo

Shauki B

Questions/Help  - 
 
#peristaticPump #coldExtrusion work in progress, input appreciated
Working on a pump for printing 1 m tall statues out of clay / cement... Parametric model is public onShape: https://goo.gl/kbSd95
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Shauki B's profile photoRobert Swarner's profile photo
23 comments
 
If you go peristaltic, you'll want to only pinch one pillow of driven fluid at a time. In the pictured design, you have two pillows of fluid in the tubing. Instead, make the section of the race that does the pinching to be just over 120 degrees, so that the tubing never comes un-pinched, but you avoid creating two pinched pillows. That will seriously reduce drag and wear on tubing and will produce the same output.


I like the phased multiple tubing idea, +Eric Lien!
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Samer Najia

General discussion  - 
 
Ok that's it. The Da Vinci crapped out again today mid print. This time another filament jam and now the second extruder won't load. And taking the thing apart is a giant PITA (I have to cut zip ties, pull off plugs, blah blah blah). I suppose I have jammed filament in the nozzle. And now the X-belt is loose again, which means my 3D Printed belt tensioner needs to be replaced again (XYZ sent me a replacement, so I guess I need to replace that too). Oh and yeah, proprietary filament cartridges. I am debating selling it, but I won't box it up and ship it, so if you want it, come get it. I have tons of other printers (like 6 Deltas and 4 i3s) that can take its place and I'm sick of messing with it. It's easier to work with the open source stuff anyway.
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Nathan Walkner's profile photoSamer Najia's profile photo
5 comments
 
Well.....maybe not the pyramid shaped parachute...lol
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Ronald Rael

Show-n-tell  - 
 
KQED Mini-Documentary about Emerging Objects
Through their Emerging Objects studio, Ronald Rael and Virginia San Fratello seek to revolutionize architecture by marrying the latest printing technologies with unusual construction materials
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Shauki B

Custom-built & Reprap  - 
 
#bikini   #hotend holder for #screwDelta , ist es so acceptable?
#bikiniHE? Ich mine Ja ;)
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Shauki B's profile photoLord_Vader's profile photo
7 comments
 
+Shauki B thank you sir
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Alex Skoruppa

Show-n-tell  - 
 
I've shared the STLs for all the display holders I did for the #Carbonoid  printers on #YouMagine:
- AZSMZ LCD
- RepRapDiscount GLCD
- Panucatt Viki 2
- Panucatt mini Viki
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Alex Skoruppa

Custom-built & Reprap  - 
 
Today I designed a lid for the #miniViki holder I use on #CarbonoidD1 #0003. I also reprinted the spiral vase in translucent purple PLA.
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Griffin Paquette's profile photoAlex Skoruppa's profile photo
7 comments
 
+Griffin Paquette no wear at all so far, but it's to early to judge. It has only printed maybe 0.5 kg of filament until today.
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René Jurack

General discussion  - 
 
User Shaso is building my 3d-printer "DICE" live on twitch right now:

https://www.twitch.tv/shasoaunla
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Fred U.'s profile photoRené Jurack's profile photo
2 comments
 
he is doing a timelapse of it
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About this community

A community centered around 3D Printing which is accessible to everyone. This includes open source designs, home built printers, and the sharing of information which helps everyone gain access to this wonderful technology. The people here are very enthusiastic about 3D Printing and always willing to help. Ask questions! Show us your ideas! Help advance what is possible! We have a strict policy on spam and irrelevant content; which includes closed source, patent encumbered development, and self-promotion - if the users cannot replicate what you're posting, it probably doesn't belong here. No analytic URL shorteners. This includes bit.ly, goo.gl, etc. This just goes to show that you're not interested in participation, but only how this community can benefit you. Links:

Mauro Manco (Exilaus)

Custom-built & Reprap  - 
 
My hbot gslot have an update and lose torsion .

Mount square belt and carriage are really simple and need around 10/15min . That are my objectives on this built have fast mount xy module.

Now need change z system and try it soon :) increasing some space in z and in y.


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Mauro Manco (Exilaus)'s profile photoMiguel Sánchez's profile photo
7 comments
 
I totally agree with +Ryan Carlyle , hbot is a bit of a pain. I do not see that replacing the acrylic with aluminium will be fixing it. Sorry to be a naysayer here.

It will work but it will not work as well as you would like.
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René Jurack

General discussion  - 
 
Where can I buy a "pancake" stepper motor at an acceptable price? Like the NEMA17 12mm thin in the picture
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Jeff DeMaagd's profile photoØystein Krog's profile photo
5 comments
 
I'm using these for a geared extruder (13/60). They work but they can burn out from heat, I recommend heatsink+fan on them.
I've bought from farnell and tme.eu.
I've also tested some round nema14 alternatives, but they are not quite as good. The 100g model is ok though.
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3d printing Live.
Printing...21%
Alien Head http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:579768
Nozzle chimera/volcano 0.6 mm layer: 0.35 mm, infill 16%
Item weight 2.8 kg.
Material injection speed: 39 gr/h. (1 kg in 25 hours+-)
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Kenneth Johansson

Show-n-tell  - 
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Marcus Wolschon's profile photoRoger Storvik's profile photo
8 comments
 
+Kenneth Johansson I just printed Robert's design from Youmagine (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder) and it seems to be a perfect fit.
How have you improved it?
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Christopher Knopick

General discussion  - 
 
Another great project for the #RaspberryPi with some 3D printed parts to boot. #astronomy
Telescopes are great, and while you can snag a decent one for relatively cheap, making your own is always more fun. If you don’t mind putting in a bit of effort, Make walks you through making your own with a 3D printed case.
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Peter van der Walt's profile photoShauki B's profile photo
2 comments
 
aha, and subscribe to http://www.nibiruupdate.com/ :)
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J Seed

Questions/Help  - 
 
I have just bought a QIDI Tech 2 printer and I have successfully printed simple cubes, hollow tubes etc in both ABS and PLA but I am have a problem printing anything more complex. I have attached a couple of pics, these are in PLA, any idea what I should do?
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Griffin Paquette's profile photoChris Heddles's profile photo
24 comments
 
Yes, it's available as a filter but most cameras are darker around the edges (vignette) although most now control it enough to not be noticeable. It looks to me like a phone camera shot with the LED flash lighting up the centre of the shot more than the outsde and giving the change in colour. across the frame.

If you can, try taking the shot again under natural sunlight without a flash. This way those who know printers well (not me) can have a better chance of working out what's going on.
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Lord_Vader

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Before and after. Seems ok to do ^^

Went on a little tour...
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Aric Norine's profile photoTom Keidar's profile photo
9 comments
 
+Aric Norine that it is... i have some gears and bearings printed in that stuff, i see no visible wear even ~7-8 months of hard usage.

+Lord_Vader i wish... they have very reasonable prices and a great selection of materials, but only ship freely in the EU... everywhere else (including israel) they ship with fedex and dhl, and those cost an arm and a leg and a headache. it's the same as with the stuff on amazon. i'm like the poor kid, standing at the window of toys'r'us dreaming of his new xbox, i can only browse and envy your prices and selection ;P

i'm mostly fine material wise - there's a lot of really good quality stuff you can source from china. but nylon specifically has been a really hard-to-come-by material for me (wayyyyy overpriced here, and i cannot source any of the good/nontoxic stuff from china), so i've been testing other materials instead...
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Eugenia Martín

General discussion  - 
 
 
Labyrinth medallion.

Labyrinth-shaped gold medallion. The labyrinth is formed by a single loop.

Manifold mesh with 9,156 quads (100%). No faces intersected or distorted. No poles of more than 5 edges. Suitable for printing. Render Blender Internal.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Medallón dorado con forma de laberinto.

Modelo formado por un sólo bucle con 9.156 quads (100%). Sin caras interseccionadas ni distorsionads. Sin polos de más de 5 aristas. Apto para imprimir. Render Blender Internal.
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J Seed's profile photoEugenia Martín's profile photo
10 comments
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