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Jen Fraser

Questions/Help  - 
 
HELP! Advice needed.
I’ve got a steel ball running along an alumide track (made using SLS 3D print tech). The problem I have is that the alumide surface feels like sandpaper. I want to know what I should paint / coat this alumide track in, to achieve the smoothest & most friction-free surface possible for the ball to roll along? Some might point to hydro-phobic materials, however I don’t know if that would be “grabby” for the ball. I also don’t know if using some kind of nano-lube would be a good idea…. Suggestions? 
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marc kerger's profile photoArkadiusz Jurkiewicz's profile photojohn pearce's profile photok-electrónica's profile photo
9 comments
 
Hot air
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Jason Clark

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Today's creation. Drop down, increase speed, reverse direction, don't forget to wash your hands!  Just uploaded the STL http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:794965
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Denys Dmytriyenko's profile photoJason Clark's profile photoShaun Orwell's profile photo
2 comments
 
Bah,  I'll see your prior art and raise you an entire wall of glow in the dark invaders!!! coming soon.  Minus the toilet paper. also smaller. 
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Is it me or are +The Ben Heck Show's 3D Printers terrible?

Watch these sped up clips; the Makerbot looks like its warping like crazy and the delta is leaving lamination gaps?
https://youtu.be/tt68Q1HhCdA?list=WL&t=810

Maybe he needs someone nearby to pop in and help him out ;)
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Brook Drumm's profile photoNeil Darlow's profile photobryan vincent's profile photo
8 comments
 
Printer capabilities aside, I think it's the functional vs. aesthetic argument. A print may not turn out as pretty as you might wish but still be perfectly fit for purpose.

I sometimes produce prints like these not because of errors on my part but purely due to conditions prevailing on the day. I only publish good quality examples of my work however.
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Mauro Manco (Exilaus)

Custom-built & Reprap  - 
 
Little version of Quadrap v2 are ready to receive hotend and hobed. and final calibration.
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Alex Lee's profile photo
 
+Mauro Manco It looks a bit overextruded... :D
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Mike Miller

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Because detail is free. (And what parrot toy DOESN'T need speed holes?)
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Addidis     no

Questions/Help  - 
 
Anyone know where I can get some good quality custom hobbed bolts made? 

I cant seem to find any that fit my setup, my bolt head sits on the back of the extruder. 
55.88 long 7.85 diameter 

This one worked pretty well , it just constantly strips the filament now and never worked for retracts. 
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Øystein Krog's profile photok-electrónica's profile photo
19 comments
 
+Brook Drumm​ I currently use a wade-style but with a gt2 belt, I can recommend it. As you say it is nice to be able to tweak the gear ratio. 
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Has anyone here had any luck 3D printing stamps without some form of foam or rubber?

I tried making this one and it turned out bad. Not sure if it's because of design, or if the ink pad was bad.

It was originally too dry, but then I added water and let it sit for a few. After that the thing was inking, but it was coming out VERY blotchy. It looked like the stamp was pulling up way too much ink.
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Robert Gorman (GoGoCharlie)'s profile photoBrad Dudenhoffer's profile photo
21 comments
 
The best results I have had are from printing a negative of the stamp, pouring silicone into the mold, and attaching the resulting silicone to a piece of hardboard. 
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Ben Van Den Broeck

General discussion  - 
 
Anyone want a pre-built Bukito 3D printer? One of our makers is upgrading and wants to sell it. Will take best offer so shoot me an email or hangout if you'd like to nab it! (US/Canda Only)
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Ronald G Fowler's profile photo
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Jurica Bosnar

Questions/Help  - 
 
I am looking for system of turning photos to 3d object for 3d printing. Any suggestions please?
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Jurica Bosnar's profile photoabdurrahman ulusoy's profile photo
10 comments
 
google: atrcam download. maybe you want to add crack
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About this community

A community centered around open-source and hobby-level 3D printers and their enthusiasts. The people here are very enthusiastic about 3D Printing and always willing to help. Ask questions! Post pictures! Join us! Responsible disclosure of business ties are required. We have a strict policy on spam and irrelevant content; which includes closed source or patent encumbered development - please also read the full community rules (linked below). Links:

Chris Mitchell

Custom-built & Reprap  - 
 #I3
 
Hey guys any of you have a v slot i3? 
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I'm having some concerns/problems with print lifting on parts designed to fit in flush with each other. Does anyone know of, and preferably have experience with, any kind of spackle or sandable filler material that could be put into the gap, smoothed and shaped,  then painted over?

Like that drywall putty people use to repair the holes in their walls that pop up whenever a 15+ hour print fails at the last hour for the third time... But you know... Designed for plastic or props...
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Robert Gorman (GoGoCharlie)'s profile photoNeil Darlow's profile photojohn pearce's profile photo
3 comments
 
+Robert Gorman​ I think you might be looking for a product called "Epoxy Putty". Readily available on eBay and, I guess, good hardware stores.
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Mike Learned

Questions/Help  - 
 
So hey. This is my third attempt with my Reprap Neo in trying to build the Le Fabshop lightsaber handle. Using PLA at 215. My nozzle keeps clogging at about 5/8 through this print. Tried it at slower speed, no luck. Seems like something more to do then just upping the temp again. What do you guys think? Should I speed up the print time? I have a theory that it might help. Suggestions appreciated!
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Mike Learned's profile photok-electrónica's profile photo
8 comments
 
+ThantiK​ after looking it up, yeah, I've inadvertently tried a cold pull, just the way I have to remove filament since it's a Bowden extruder. Need to look into lubricating more. I know Creative Tools recommends this for every use, think I was a little nervous about it 
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Thomas Sanladerer
owner

Guides  - 
 
Solid state relays can be real problem solvers. Learn how and how not to use them!
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Dale Dunn's profile photoJeremie Francois's profile photoErol B's profile photo
3 comments
 
As you say, there are also DC-DC solid state relays that really suits 12v or 24v powered hotbeds (not the huge kind of 220VAC bed you need on this huge printer, agreed - but uncommon and riskier indeed). Many people want to use regular DC-AC ones for their low voltage DC beds, and it does not work. The load must be AC (as you mention). For DC loads, you tell about mosfets, that are the ubiquitous component to switch beds on and off indeed. But when making it yourself, DC SSR may still be easier to use than mosfets, mostly because the real internal resistor of the latter must be double checked. Precisely because of this, never trust the too cheap... and fake ones on ebay! They will get way too hot and they may even burn something -- even though the (fake) label says you bought the "proper" MOSFET. Now, sure, SSR are sexier than relays, and they work with PWM as you mentioned (high frequency on-off command to achieve intermediate temperatures). Still, good old relays are easier and cheaper to work with for heating a bed in my opinion. They still require the firmware to be re-configured in "bang-bang" (slow switching) mode, but they work as well as any other component, with the added benefit of hearing it click. I think PWM for a heated bed is overkill anyway, as a variation of a few degrees on the bed has no real impact, contrary to the head.
Btw, the regular AC SSRs you speak about are also very well suited to implement a "suicide mode" on a 3D printer. The deal is to shut the printer automatically off when the job is done for more safety and less power waste when it is left unattended on a long print (full howto in this old post http://www.tridimake.com/2012/11/auto-shutoff-at-end-of-print.html ). It is strange to me that so few printers have suicide modes, given the small cost, simplicity and benefit. The existing firmware even supported it for years.

BTW, +1 for such videos, short and informative without getting too technical as a howto.
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All3DP

Show-n-tell  - 
 
BeeVeryCreative: First impression

Why you should read this: Because All3DP author Victor Anusci had a first look with the BeeTheFirst 3D printer. 

Despite its provoking name, it took me quite a while to get my hands on the “BeeTheFirst” printer. But now that I finally got to try it through a friend of mine who distributes them internationally, I can tell you that my testing experience was truly revealing. #3dprinting  
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Carl Hicks

Questions/Help  - 
 
Does anyone know who makes this? 1.75mm feels like ABS. Strange spool design. I have no information about it. Does anyone recognise it? 
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Carl Hicks's profile photoWhosa whatsis's profile photok-electrónica's profile photo
8 comments
 
I can confirm, I've cracked open one of those cartridges, and this is exactly what's inside. 
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Joe Spanier

Questions/Help  - 
 
Whos printing on PEI? What materials have you tried and what temps work? I am loving ABS at 115. No warp everything sticks like magic. Plat at 60 is great too.


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Ben Hudson's profile photoAndrew Wade's profile photo
11 comments
 
i use a PEI 1.574mm thick heated bed, supplier Ryan plastic UK and stick it to an aluminium bed using 3m 467 transfer tape, no warping. Usual print pla at 50deg C.
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So you all see this? Is this how M$ is going to exact control over the 3d printing world? Or do you think they are just doing something that should of been done long ago?
Microsoft has just announced that it will reveal information on its new 3D printing file format in Windows 10 at this year's Build conference in San Francisco.
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Justin Nesselrotte's profile photoBrook Drumm's profile photoOlivier de Broqueville's profile photok-electrónica's profile photo
29 comments
 
+Justin Nesselrotte I agree that the printer should be the black box. That would greatly simplify. My first octiprint plugin for internal use moves a file to raspberry pi and slices it onboard. That's an early version of what you describe. It uses the cloud to move the file but could be done locally too.

Brook
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I had some luck with my last Question/Help, so I figured I would throw you guys another one.

I'm about to print something HUGE. It will take up most of my printer bed. The last time I tried something like this I had a bit of lifting at the edges, even with helper disks attached to the corners. I cannot risk this lifting on this print!

I have added support and done what I can to reinforce the corners, but I want to check to see if you guys have any more advice before I start it.

The printer is a Dremel 3D without a heated bed and the material is 1.75 PLA. The top of the printer is removed to allow for my filament spools to hang above it, but this has left a massive opening that causes the extruder temperature to fluctuate faster.

To combat this I have closed the side air vents and blocked part of the top to regulate the internal heat as much as possible. This appears to have reduced the fluctuation, but I am not sure if it will be enough to reduce the lifting.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!
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Ross Shannon's profile photoRobert Gorman (GoGoCharlie)'s profile photo
13 comments
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Jonathan Rochelle

General discussion  - 
 
Discovery - Simply rotating my model on the print bed reduced peeling
Getting my 3D Prints to stick to the bed is probably one of my biggest challenges. It's mostly with small parts - and I've mostly had issues when trying to print many copies of the same part all at once. But recently, there w...
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Martin Renold's profile photoBen Van Den Broeck's profile photoJean-Louis Bourdon's profile photoIvan Hoe's profile photo
9 comments
 
+Martin Renold That is true, turning on supports for the most extreme angles of that object would help.
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Just got our demo machine of the Cube 3 machine from 3D Systems. Thought it would be interesting share some close-up photos of this 3D printer. There are mostly 3D renderings for marketing out there.

I just took these images with my mobile phone and aimed at what I thought would be interesting to see.

I'll put the Cube 3 through its paces and 3D-print  #3DBenchy  boats as its first challenge. Will post images of the printing and the result soon.

If anyone wants to see more images from a specific part of the machine, just reply to this post and I will be glad to do so.

#3dprinter   #3dprinting   #cube   #cube3   #unboxing   #cubify   #3dsystems   #cartridge   #boat   #torturetest   #testing  
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Kevin Snyder's profile photoPaulo Kiefe's profile photo
12 comments
 
+Kevin Snyder Thanks for your detailed comment. It is very interesting to learn about other peoples experiences. 

Clearly the two "major players" MB and DDD are not doing things well enough and probably they are not taking the end-user-perspective into account.
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