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Sabin Radu

General discussion  - 
 
Hbot6060 Wave project is coming to an end, electrical engineering and has received all revisions and optimizarile necessary for effective operations.
Surface: 600 x600x1000 mm
Print Speed 25-90 mm / s
Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm
Layer Height: 0.1-0.8 MM
Extruder direct drive
Steppere Powermaxx: No 23
Heated bed: Da - SSR la 220V

A big project that can change the way the 3 D printers are seen!
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Nagendra Gupta

General discussion  - 
 
Where can I get plastic id cards for id printing 
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william foster's profile photoB Once's profile photo
2 comments
B Once
 
are you trying to stop people use the printer unless they have a access card?
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Volker Klaffehn

Questions/Help  - 
 
I have a question about Simplify3d and bridging : I have a part where I have to bridge about 10mm, the hotend builds a bridge on the corner fine, but when it starts to bridge between the existing part and that new thin line, the filament wont stick to that single string and sags. In the preview I can see that those bridging lines only touch that single edge, but will not overlap. Setting the 'bridge overlap' only shows on the already printed base. I hope somebody understands what I'm writing, for more explanation see picture : the two green lines on the right edge going straight upwards print fine, but the light blue bridge lines only just touch the lines, there is no overlap. on the left you can see my 0.4mm bridge overlap setting applied. What am I missing? If that cant be set, I have to alter my model....
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Jon Gritton's profile photoRené Jurack's profile photo
5 comments
 
It looks like, that there IS NO layer beneath the side of the bridging... What do you expect? Printing a corner midair isn't going to work without support...
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Tomáš Vít

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Tom's BBC micro:bit Shell V1 – Simple Case for Simple Microcomputer
Small closed case designed today from scratch and ready for your #3Dprinting. No screws or glue needed. Two parts, 0.2mm (or 0.1) layers, standard 0.4mm nozzle. Print the upper part from clear material (Crystal Clear PLA from +Fillamentum did the work in my case) to see the LEDs. You can use multicolour print for more attractive box.

#BBC #microbit #Fusion360 #Thingiverse #electronics #diy #Prusai3
Small closed case designed from scratch. No screws or glue needed. If you find it useful, leave a comment – maybe I can prepare also open display version (no thin cover above LEDs) or some holder for standard micro:bit battery pack. ;)
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Samer Najia

Questions/Help  - 
 
My all-metal i3 recently stopped accepting commands to move the X axis. It started with a stuttering X and then nothing at all in any axis. The board is an MKS. It is made by SunHoKey. Could it be the motor (does one motor kill them all)? The board? Instantly dead drivers for all motors?
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Ray Kholodovsky's profile photoSamer Najia's profile photo
6 comments
 
I pinged the vendor and asked for a replacement or to send it back for repair. What? Why? To make room for my new printers while it gets fixed.
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Lord_Vader

Show-n-tell  - 
 
The extruder +Thomas Sanladerer​ reviewed is very nice and really has a nice brush on it. But the fact it cant print normal filaments that well makes it kind of unnecessary.

This is a view on my extruder. Can print ninjaflex through a 0.4 nozzle with 0.8 extrusionwidth at 40mm/s @ 0.2mm layerheight which is quite impressive i think. No PTFE liner or such.

But to be fair its 2.85mm filament ;D
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Nathan Walkner's profile photoRyan Carlyle's profile photo
5 comments
 
+Nathan Walkner it's volumetric flow rate that counts, I can print Ninjaflex over 100mm/s with 0.1mm layers and a 0.6mm nozzle because the low layer heights mean less flow rate and the big nozzle means less back-pressure. Wouldn't want to though, it tends to blob more when you do a lot of acceleration. Makes nicer prints with thicker layers and lower feedrates. 
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Greg son

Questions/Help  - 
 
Recently i built prusa style printer with ramps and marlin. Everything seems fine, but there's a weird motor sound on 00:25 and 00:35 , any idea what that is? I also attached screenshot of my marlin config for you to look at if there's anything wrong, any tips is appreciated! 
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Nathan Walkner's profile photoGreg son's profile photo
3 comments
 
the sounds is worrying, how do I slow it down? 
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wei liu

General discussion  - 
 
D-force v2 fully-loaded test 255MM diameters 260MM height PLA @210c 0.5MM nozzle 0.25layer 5% infll 1.2KG filament & almost broken the glass to peel off the parts
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kenneth rooks's profile photo
 
I found that soaking the bed in alcohol for 5 to 10 helps with that
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Felipe Franco

General discussion  - 
 
Hello guys, how are you? I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 printer. I am very happy with this 3d printer, I my first and I am learning about this wonderfull world of 3d. I have a problem with the first layer. as you can see in the photo, the first layer is not being very good. What do you recommend to me for fix this problem? Thanks for your answer and sorry my bad English. Have a good day. 
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Felipe Franco's profile photonick durrett's profile photo
3 comments
 
Its hard to tell from the oic but it looks like your nozzle may be to close to the print bed
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Brian Westgate

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Video I made of finishing a 3D print without sanding/bondo/filler. I'm happy with the results.
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Tony Castley

Found a deal  - 
 
Fail safe for 3D printers?
The solution for monitoring & cutting power to any electrical device including 3D printers, lights & more.
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Steve M's profile photoJeff DeMaagd's profile photo
5 comments
 
I'm aware they are pitching it to be more encompassing than watching just one type of device, the strong majority of their marketing is about 3D printing. Say even if it had host capability, that doesn't prevent it from being able to control power to other appliances, it would just be a feature not used in that case.
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About this community

A community centered around 3D Printing which is accessible to everyone. This includes open source designs, home built printers, and the sharing of information which helps everyone gain access to this wonderful technology. The people here are very enthusiastic about 3D Printing and always willing to help. Ask questions! Show us your ideas! Help advance what is possible! We have a strict policy on spam and irrelevant content; which includes closed source, patent encumbered development, and self-promotion - if the users cannot replicate what you're posting, it probably doesn't belong here. No analytic URL shorteners. This includes bit.ly, goo.gl, etc. This just goes to show that you're not interested in participation, but only how this community can benefit you. Links:

Blake Dunham

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Just got these in to go with the new control board. I'm definitely bummed this isnt my printer :(
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jerryflyguy's profile photoBlake Dunham's profile photo
2 comments
 
CoreXY with a bit of a twist
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Volker Klaffehn

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Finally I got my CoreXY an universal spool holder :-) And I bought Simplify3d, what a nice tool! It helped me to tame PETG. The printer is currently printing at 90mm/sec, travel moves at 200mm/sec, x/y jer set to 45, accelleration at 4000 in Marlin. I first had problems with stringing, but increasing jerk, accel. and travl speed helps alot.
https://goo.gl/photos/hnVzqbqmhtJLCuvp8
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Rien Stouten

General discussion  - 
 
So, this is what hapens when you leave the bed at 150 degrees celsius.
I'm sooo stupid. To speed up the heating process, I had set the bed to 150, but forgot to change it back to 80 as I should have.
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Anthony Bolgar's profile photoJeff DeMaagd's profile photo
14 comments
 
It really depends. I did once have an auto tune that yielded me a setting that would never quite get to temp but permanently hover just enough below that Marlin would not start the program. But as I noted before, changing the settings fixed that.
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Lord_Vader

Show-n-tell  - 
 
Just installed the new e3d v6 heaterblock+thermistorcartridge. This is awesome! Love it!
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Tom Keidar's profile photoAx Smith-Laffin's profile photo
9 comments
 
+Tom Keidar - it's not so much on the block as on the layer fan assembly. It got the same thing with +colorFabb Filament's NGEN. Not something I worry about tbh. It's a lot less on the FB2020+ due to the 12mm Z rods. I've misplaced the bearings for the 12mm Rods on the FB2020 moving house. I'm going to throw some 12mm Nylon Bridge bushings at it when I have some down time. Which won't be for a couple of weeks as my work print queue is huge atm and I'm loathed to use the Migbot Prusa i3's asI can't get as good a quality out of them.

Going back to the Z, I'm actually noticing bed levelling issues on the FB2020 when comparing it to the FB2020+.  I'm printing a lot of stuff at 80µ atm and it's a bitch to get the first layer right. Compare that with the plus and it's a breeze, so once I've got it upgraded it should be less dust as well as easier to level.
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Griffin Paquette

Questions/Help  - 
 
I was kindly given this 300mm 12v silicone heated mat after helping a friend update their Taz 2 to a Taz 4. I would like to throw it on my printer that I am specifically building to sell but just can't figure out the right price for the printer as a whole. This mat convinced me to make it a 300x300x250 build area printer with octoprint and dual extrusion onboard as standard.

With a printer built with these specs what would a good resale price be? I was thinking around 800-1000$ USD but am I off? It's using quality components as I really want it to be a printer that I'm happy to put my name on. If it sells well perhaps I'll build another. 
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ThantiK's profile photo
ThantiK
 
At 300mmx300mm you really should bump up to a mains driven bed heater IMHO. 
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ChicagolandGeeks

Show-n-tell  - 
 
New time lapse video of Bulbasaur! Woot Woot!
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Jeff DeMaagd's profile photoFred U.'s profile photo
12 comments
Fred U.
 
I was sorta joking, as I don't consider the fad of Star Wars and the fad of Pokemon Go as being in the same classification as the fad of Benchy prints. I may have missed that aspect of the national and local news.

I'm sure I'd have a different opinion of Pokemon Go if I were making money as rapidly as some of the principals of that operation.
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Thomas Sanladerer
owner

Show-n-tell  - 
 
An extruder and hotend made specifically for flexible filaments - but could it be over-optimized for regular use?
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Lord_Vader's profile photoSzymon Richert's profile photo
7 comments
 
Hey! Did you try to do something like this?
http://hackaday.com/2016/07/27/3d-printering-non-planar-layer-fdm/
It seems like a great break through when it comes to printing robust parts.
Is it worth to invest into it?
Please do video about it! You are great!
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Luis Diaz

General discussion  - 
 
 
Elapsed time 18h 32 minutes. Printed at 60 mm/second.

Design here: Wireframe Skull Pencil Holder (For The Love of Dog) found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1388237
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Ben Malcheski

Electronics  - 
 
I'm looking at options for a 32 bit controller to run my machine. The machine is fairly large Ultimaker/Herculien style and utilizes an e3D Kraken with Volcano nozzles (I currently have a simultaneous need for at least 3 of the nozzles). I am currently using the Azteeg X3 Pro.

My main requirements are:

-Support 7 motors
-Preferably Pololu style drivers but if not, then I need a way to integrate at least DRV8825s or equivalent. Eventually I want to get it working with some Gecko drivers (some bizarre issues to resolve there first) though as Nema 17s and DRV8825s are just barely working now.
-Support for 4 hot ends plus a heated bed. Right now my bed is heated using 120V with an SSR so I'm not too worried about how much power the board can handle itself.
-Would really like if the firmware has a means of compensating for extruder hysteresis. My bowden tubes are very long (1.2m), though they could be shortened to 0.7m if I reconfigured the machine. I have been using the bugfix branch of Marlin which recently had a new advance algorithm implemented. While it's not perfect yet, I have noticed a big improvement at corners and when the infill changes direction.

I've been considering a Duet, Smoothie, or the Panucatt X5 Mini. Can someone who is more familiar with any of these boards or other similar ones make a suggestion for me? Thanks!
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Jeff DeMaagd's profile photoTim Elmore's profile photo
18 comments
 
+Ben Malcheski Nope, you're all set.
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