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Hi i can't undestand how i must change , i have an Anet a8 , with bowden system e3d V6 & titan extruder , this is 0.2 and pint Speed 90 and traveler 190 , 1.2 Shell and 0.5 bottom top , fill 10% temp 210°
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So this is my benchy i printed on a wanhao i3 printer.

Extra details:

3D Printer model: i3
3D Printer brand: Wanhao
Modifications: none
Filament type: PLA
Filament brand: inland(Fry's)
Printing Surface:glass
Slicer: Cura
Layer height: .1
Perimeters: none
Infill %: 20%
Bottom/Top thickness: .06
Print speed: 50
Extrusion temp: 215
Platform temp (if heated): 75
Description of problem: So there is some stringing, and lots of studs on the outer boat, I'm new to 3d printing and my friend told me the first thing to do was to print a benchy and ask for some advice on what i need to do. What can i do better here?
Pictures added for visual reference
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I just tried to print Benchy on my newly built Kossel Mini. I set the speed really slow to see how that would look.

Overall it looks good, but the overhangs in the windows/doors look bad, and it has this weird dent in the bow. Any ideas what goes wrong here? Also, are there any other newbie errors?

Cura 15.04
20% infill
Bed: 60C
Extruder: 200C

Layer height: 0.1 (initial 0.2)
Nozzle size: 0.4
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Hello Community!

I hope, everyone can help/teach me! ;)
@the Pic's, you see the great'est Benchy; that i can print. :(
With NO extraction Settings at the extruder. (MK8).
And only so, i can make a 3DBenchy, that looks like ok. ;(

Please, have anyone a hint 4 me?
...i think, i must work on Z wobble, and, and, and...

Kindly regards!

- Geeetech DIY Prusa i3 with mk8 Extruder (0,4mm)
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A few bobbles on the bow of Benchy, but I'm more worried about the rear where the horizontal surface is all "wobbly" as if the nozzle is dragging through the molten plastic. I consistently get this on flat surfaces (you can see to a lesser extend on this inside deck of Benchy).
Any help much appreciated!

Prusa i3 clone 0.4mm nozzle. Slic3r v1.29
PLA @ 0.2mm layer (0.3mm 1st). 35% infill
60mm/s perimeters (50% external) 80mm/s infill
3 vertical/horizontal shells
Bed 60 deg/C, Extruder 200 deg/C
Retraction 2mm @ 40mm/s
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Trying to make as many tweaks as possible.

Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1
All Metal Micro Swiss Hotend
Glass Plate
Z Brace Mod (and a few small others)

Bed: 65 | Extruder: 200
Bottom Process: 0 - .8

Extrusion Multiplier: 1
Retraction Distance: 4.5
Extra Restart Distance: 0
Retraction Vertical Lift: 0
Retraction Speed: 2600
Coasting Distance: .2
Wipe Distance: 5

Layer Height: .2
Top Solid Layers: 1
Bottom Solid Layers: 2
Outline/Perimeter Shells: 2
First Layer Height: 100%
First Layer Width: 100%
First Layer Speed: 25%

Internal Fill Pattern: Grid
External Fill Pattern: Rectilinear
Interior Fill Percentage: 100%
Outline Overlap: 80%
Infill Extrusion Width: 100%
Minimum Infill Length: 5

Layer 1: 0 | Layer 2: 20

Default Printing Speed 1200 mm/min
Outline Underspeed: 50%
Solid Infill Underspeed: 80%
X/Y Axis Movement Speed: 750 mm/min
Z Axis Movement Speed: 750 mm/min

Second Process .8-8.6
Top Solid Layers: 2
Bottom Solid Layers: 1
Interior Infill Percentage: 40%

Third Process: 8.6 - Finish
Top Solid Layers: 3
Bottom Solid Layers: 1
Fan Speed: 30%
Interior Infill Percentage: 40%

Default Printing Speed 1000 mm/min
X/Y Axis Movement Speed: 700 mm/min
Z Axis Movement Speed: 700 mm/min
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Wow, in pictures this looks really much worse. Guess my eyes are going!

This is my first attempt with a Benchy, and I used one of my 0.05mm profiles in the latest version of FlashPrint 3.16 on a FlashForge Dreamer (MicroSwiss MK10 Setup). Borosilicate bed with AquaNet spray (MakerGeeks PETG seems to like this)

30% Infill, 245* with MakerGeeks PETG, 60* bed temp. 32mm/s Shell Count at 3, 8 top and bottom solid layers.

With the .4mm nozzle the text on the back is not all that great. ;)

Interesting results considering my settings were for a much simpler item that I print a few times per week, thin wall no overhangs, etc. I will have to see what I get with some other settings or Simplify.
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Hi all,
I've been using 3dbenchy to troubleshoot my slicer settings (simplify3d) and my reprap tuning. I was wondering if anybody can suggest how to fix the defect in the hull, which was caused by some curling during printing. I've tried with different nozzle temperatures, so far with no success. This 3d print was done in ABS, at 240 celsius nozzle and 100 heatbed. I also tried with 230 and 223 degrees in the nozzle, and the problem, while less prominent, persist.
I'm planning to keep trying lower temps, but I think (please correct me) these temperatures are already getting on the low side for ABS.

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