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I've been a lurker for ages as I slowly amassed the parts I needed, but good news! I'm 1 delivery away from having my printer constructed (and "some" assembly required)

1.I'm doing my best to keep the wiring color-coded and I'll need solder (I'm fresh out) to connect my UV LED strips up to 12V
2.Yes its a fused switch (that I trust) with a lower wattage then the power supply
3.I probably didnt make a good choice with my tiny LED's as a strip, but worst case scenario I replace it

Any recommendations?
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I posted about the new LED grid I built a few days ago, the results are in. Print quality is the same and cure times have dropped. So at 0.05 layer height the machine is able to print 17mm per hour. Build area with full even light coverage is 65x65x140mm and the grid is running at 60w.

has anyone in this group tried clear OPP film as a substitute for FEP in a flexi-vat?

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Does anyone out there produce their own PCBs?

This article:
https://hackaday.com/2018/09/18/get-your-pcbs-made-at-the-mall/
got me thinking...

Would it be possible to lay a board in a resin bath and expose the tracks. In theory with a 2560 pixel 5.5" display you could get 2mil trace resolution. Unfortunately I still don't have an SLA printer to try the theory.

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Hi guys, i want to ask about

1. Why my stepper motor wire get hot after connect on the nanodlp shield and power on.

- stepper motor wire ( red blue green black)
- I connect accordingly ( red-1A, blue-2A, green-1B, Black-2B)
- Is it my connection wrong ? I used the multimeter to check the pair of the wire, (red and blue is one pair), (green and black is one pair), if there is a peep sound which mean it is a pair right ?
- the Vref on the trimpot is 7.45v while connect trimpot and gnd ( this value should ok right ? )
- or is it my wire too thin ? The wire is thin wire will get hot ? (Previously I’m connected on ramps 1.4 the wire don’t have hot issued)
- once i power on, the nema 17 motor having the zzz sound, and motor turned automatically with click any thing on the nanodlp software


- can someone give some advice on it ?
- or give me some guideline ?
- I’m rushing to finish it by today probably

- the picture shows the wire connection
( purple is red wire, blue is blue, green is green, yellow is black) I extent it longer wire but I don’t have the same color wire code
- or the shield must using the White Housing to connect it ?
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If you don't like my V1, take a look at my V2.
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2018/9/14
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i tried everything but it didn't work.

I have installed the nanodlp firmware to raspberry 3.but the raspberry pi did not recognize arduino.Do you have a different image file for raspberry pi?or is there a way I can easily do it?
ı have a wanhao d7 plus dlp printer.It is not working.I have to fix it.I should install from scratch.

Please can you help me?I want to make my own printer.

thank you for everything..

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Built a new backlight that consists of 30x 3w LED's, running 5 in series and 6 parallel. FDM printed a jig to align them and used a thermal glue to attach them to a large heatsink. Haven't ran many tests yet but what i do know if my cure times have been cut down and the light is much more uniform across the LCD. Using a proper aluminium PCB would improve heat dissipation but i was unable to locate one with the correct spacing and i haven't bothered to design and order one yet. The LED's are being driven by a variable constant current buck converter. Need to run more test prints and take temperature measurements to find the max wattage that can be used.
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9/14/18
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9/13/18
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Interesting idea using a layer of oxygen below the build plate to inhibit hardening there, avoiding the need to go up and down between layers: you can just go up one layer at a time.

The oxygen is infused from below the vat using a specially permeable membrane.
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