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I don't know if you'd agree with his conclusions, but Linus Sebastian and LMG has done reviews on relatively inexpensive tactile (he calls them "mechanical") keyboards

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I'm just dumping this here from Slashdot.

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Today's blog post: I discuss the @UnicompKeyboard Model M. Where have you been for the last 30 years of computing?!? Anyone else love this keyboard as much as I do?

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Is this our Cherry?
"CHERRY Is Now ZF Electronics"

Hello everyone! Forgive me if I have already posted about this but I am in the market for a mechanical keyboard. I am going to use it for both work and gaming.

I have a strict budget of £100($120 or €112, so I can be anything under that but not a penny over).

I've been doing a bit of reading and I think that I would want a keyboard with either a a Cherry switch or a Razer switch.

I know that Corsair, Razer, Steelseries and even Cherry do those keyboards.

With that being said, would anyone be able to give me some recommendations that would fit those requirements?

Please reply soon.

Kind regards,

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I took an old black key Unicomp PS/2 keyboard and a new USB model and put this together. My Precioussss

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If, like me, you have a beloved old Logitech TrackMan Marble - the original with three real keys and a PS/2 port - and have been frustrated by passive adapters that don't work, this is your solution. It even hotplugs.

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I'm not a programmer. I'm a lawyer and a blogger, so my keyboard use is primarily for the typing of straight text. However, I've been touch typing since I was in high school, way too many decades ago, and I've since found that touch typing is easier and more accurate on a clicky keyboard, which is why I prefer them. At the request of +Eric Raymond, I'm reviewing my new clicky keyboard, the Leopold FC900.

You can see a zoomable picture of the FC900 keyboard here:  It comes with a keycap puller, extra Cntl keycaps in case you choose to adapt your keyboard to use different key locations (such as Caps Lock) for the Cntl function, and an adapter in case you need to use the keyboard with a non-USB machine.

The FC900 has brown cherry switches, and the manufacturer's website claims that it gives the same feedback as a regular clicky keyboard but without the noise. That was the reason I bought it; I figured that it would be useful for me to have a keyboard that I could type on during conference calls without imposing keyboard noise on the other parties to the conversation. Unfortunately, that's not quite the case. Although the FC900 is not as noisy as a regular clicky style keyboard, my FC900 makes plenty of key sound during typing.

Setting aside that disappointment, the FC900 has failed to impress me. It gets the basic job of typing done, but I've noticed that I seem to type a little less accurately than I did on the recent model Unicomp keyboard I used to have. That makes me think that the brown cherry switches the FC900 uses may not quite give a true "clicky" response. If you're a fanatic about having a keyboard that gives you true, buckling-spring-style clicky feedback, this probably isn't the keyboard for you.

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Why I love my WASD Code keyboard more today than the day I got it

Ever since I opened the box it came in, I've loved my WASD mechanical keyboard.  Except for an annoying cable management issue that I've nit-picked about, it's been perfect.

A few weeks ago, I was standing over my desk with a full cup of coffee in my hand when doghole, my Tasmanian (yellow lab) retriever barreled into me, nearly knocking me over and sending my full coffee mug - 16 oz worth - upside down and directly on my keyboard.

Before yelling at doghole I at least had the immediate presence of mind to unplug the keyboard.  Doghole wisely disappeared, and by the time he re-appeared, he'd have no idea what I was yelling at him for, so he was off the hook.

Thinking I probably had a dead keyboard, I began taking the keyboard apart in hopes that I didn't, but only after I took a few pics of the keys for easy reassembly.  WASD packs a keycap puller with their keybaords.  It works well.  After removing all of the keycaps, I took the plastic case off the keyboard (it's not hard, but not easy either) and then I rinsed everything thoroughly with warm water and dish soap and then rinsed some more.  And rinsed some more.

I used to manufacture circuit boards, so I knew the PCB assembly would survive 215F in the oven, which is above the 212F needed to boil the water off.  I was right about that.  What I was wrong about is that i figured the keyboard housing/case would survive the same heat.  Wrong.  After about 25 minutes, everything was nice and dry and the circuit board was fine, but the housing was irreparably pretzeled.  Ugh.  

I decided to see what the total damage was; I put the keycaps back on and plugged the keyboard back in and - it worked!  100%.  Well, almost.  I had two keys that worked hard - m and d - so I again pulled the keycaps on those and hit them with some isopropyl alcohol from a q-tip, worked the keys and blew them dry.  After another 10 mins, I put the keycaps back and viola - everything including the backlighing worked perfectly.  The keyboard was 100%, but I didn't have a housing for it.

I contacted WASD and leaving out the more embarrassing details gave them my sad tale  and asked if I could buy a new case, expecting no for an answer.  But to my surprised, not only was the answer yes, but the price was very reasonable considering the replacement cost for the entire keyboard - and they shipped the replacement same day using express mail.  Wow.  Just wow.

So my Code keyboard is once again 100% and looks like nothing ever happened to it.  I have been hammering on this thing for over a year now and it's not only been the best keyboard I've ever owned, but WASD also far exceeded my customer support expectations.  

If you are willing to pay for premium product and experience, you can't go wrong buying a keyboard from WASD.
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