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All measures in centimetres in cm
Principle Direct Measures
KpH Height= 176
BU Chest= 96
TU Waist= 88
GU Seat hip= 100
The Derivation of the Proportionate Measures
A) The Straight Measures in

Back depth of scye = 1/8th BU + 1/4 waist length + 0.5 = 23.5cm
T Waist length = 1/4 KpH + 1 = 44.5cm
G Depth of seat = waist length + 1/2 waist length = 66.3cm
L Length = 1/2 KpH minus 10 = 78cm
SH Front Shoulder Height = 1/8 BU + 6 = 15.6cm
Front Sleeve Length = waist length + 1 = 45cm
Front Shoulder Length = 1/10 BU + 6 = 15.6cm
Back = 1/10 BU + 7 = 16.6cm

B) The Curved Measures

RB Width of Back = 1/5th of BU + 2 (up to a chest of 100) = 21.5cm. If Ow is > 100 for every cm over this add 1mm of back width
AD Armscye Diameter = 1/8th BU + 3.5 + 2.5 darts to be removed = 18.0cm
Chest Width = 1/5th BU minus 1.5 = 22.5cm
LV Waist Width = 1/4th TU + 1.5 = 23.5cm
C) Control Measures
On the chest construction line = 1/2 BU + 11 = 49 cm
On the waist construction line = 1/2 TU + 5-6 (with closed seams) = 50 cm
On the seat construction line = 1/2 GU + 9 = 59 cm

The Back

W-RT = Back depth of scye--=23.5cm
1/3 = 1/3rd back depth of scye-=7.6cm
T = Waist length------------------=45cm
G = Depth of seat--------- =63.3cm
L = length =78 cm
L-L1 = displace by 2-----------=2 cm
L-W = join with straight line
T1-T2 = displace in by 1.5cm for waist
L1-L2 = displace by 2cm
L2-T2-1/3 = join with straight line
R-RB = width of back--------------- =21.5.cm
RB-S = side point height = 6cm
S-S1 = displace to the side by 1.5cm
RB-SH = add shoulder height here (the shoulder seam is advanced and is given a 0.5cm ease to allow for the canvas)
W-H = 1/10th of half the chest + 3=8cm
H-HS =1/10th of back depth of scye=2.4cm
HS-SL = cut along length of shoulder (the shoulder width becomes 0.5cm narrower)
T2-T3 = R-RB minus 3.5cm (the back is displaced 0.5cm on the waistline)
L2-L3 = T2-T3 + 0.5cm

The Forepart

AD-L4 = straight line parallel to back side
L4-L5 = displace 1.5cm
T5-T6 = displace in by 1.5cm for waist
S2-T6-L5 = drawn in the side seam
AD-S1 = 6 = height of side point=6cm
AV-AT = move upwards by 1cm
AT-ÄE = 4.0 sleeve pitch mark ('sleeve insertion point')=4cm
AT-SH1 = shoulder height=15.6cm
SH2-AV1 = displace by 1/16th BU + 1 = 6.8cm (through the displacement of the the shoulder seam this will become 0.5cm longer)
VBL-HS1 = neck point = 1/10th BU =9.6cm
HS1-SL1 = the shoulder length=15.6cm
AV-B = chest width=22.5cm
AV2-LV = waist width=23.5cm

Pocket and Dart Placement:

see diagram. The shoulder seam of the foreparts will attain the natural shoulder form during the making up.

The Sleeve

The draft of the sleeve is dependent on the armscye circumference, which in this case is 47.

K-KT = height of sleeve crown = 1/3rd of armscye circumference previously but as the shoulder has received 0.5cm ease the crown height must be made 0.5cm longer
1/3 = 1/3rd of sleeve crown height
KT-ÄE = 4, sleeve pitch mark ('sleeve insertion point')
KT-L = front length of sleeve
L-L3 = displace upwards by 3
E = 1/2 of ÄE-L1
ÄE-AB = sleeve width measure on an angle = 1/2 armscye circumference + 1
1/3-M1 = divide into thirds, and displace the front third by 0.5

As the shoulder width has been made narrower the armscye seam becomes straighter. The sleeve crown must go along with the armscye and becomes displaced by 0.5cm.
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