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I'm a confirmed tool nurd. One of the most basic is a good screwdriver. This is probably my favorate The Wera 825/1RA Ratchet with driver bits stored in the handle.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401579840622

As you can see it's not cheap. But whenever I use it works well. Good quality hard driver bits are important. Some cheap ones just bend like plastacine; or fit so poorly that they destroy screw heads. Quality matters 👍.
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13/11/2018
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Another lighting idea.

This new type of exterior, Solar Powered security light. Combines High output Solar Cells, with Lithium batteries, high output White LEDs and a sensitive Passive Infrared motion detector. They are a very effective external safety light, that doesn't need mains power. So it can be put up almost anywhere, that gets regular sunlight.

Thus - adding a compact, effective motion activated light: by a door, on your shed, greenhouse, gateway, or even fixed to a convenient tree; becomes easy & cheap.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263927978285

If you dive into the sales data on these lamps; you find a 3,7v battery voltage (so basically it uses a LiPo and features a 120 degree sensor range). So - I had to test them 😊. They are very bright. Mine had 3 activation settings. They can just deliver bright light for 15 seconds; when you approach. Or a more extended period of lower light, which becomes full brightness as you approach.

A single wallplug and screw (supplied) is all you need to fit one. I bought a set of two for £20. You can get various bigger ones if you need more light. They are available on Amazon. I will add a link for that later.

Consider adding a few around your place Ted; I think you will love them.
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11/11/2018
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How to Hard Wire a Dashcam Into Your Car.

A bit of car DIY, which you can use for equipment other than dashcams. If you have some item of equipment that you usually power from a dongle that plugs into your cigarette lighter socket, but want a solution that eliminates plugging in a dongle to the lighter socket, this may help.

You need to work out which fuse you want to use to provide power. For a dashcam you ideally want a feed that is always live, even when you remove the keys.

The video shows the equipment you need and how to it works. The second post links to parts you need on Amazon (eBay may be cheaper). This project is an ideal use for Dave's BangGood multimeter:)

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WHATEVER WORKS
Community Forum
As part of the quest to find a new home post G+ we do have the MeWe Group going, as you know, but we thought we'd have a go at an old-fashioned text-based 'forum' too, to see if folk would like or prefer it as a 'walled garden' approach rather than open Social Network.

If you'd like to help +David Rich and I test that, please head for https://whateverworks.audio/community and register etc. and get stuck in. Please be aware that we, too, are both learning how to use/run it too!

One problem/advantage(?!) is no App as such and as everyone hates Tapatalk, mobile options are limited.

Note - this is nothing to do with PSC or any other Community or Group, just Whatever Works. And it's very much a trial. Please keep testing MeWe and/or any other tools you're trying out - and keep feeding back.

Thanks in advance.

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WHATEVER WORKS
Episode 70 - Pesky Pigeons!
We're back again with another thrilling episode for your digestion. This time I'm joined by +Aidan Bell as we chew over all sorts of stuff that just works, or, well, just doesn't! From chips to bird seed and much between. Enjoy :-)
+David Rich
70 - Pesky Pigeons
70 - Pesky Pigeons
whateverworks.audio

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Due to further experience with the Ultrafire XLM-T6. I am updating my review, to add important instructions. Which were not included when I recieved it. Hence the update.

The simple aluminium body has a single green button on the end.
1. Press it once for full Brightness.
2. Soft Press and hold again (for 2 seconds) for level two.
3. Soft Press and hold again (for 2 seconds) for level three.
4. Soft Press and hold again for fast flashing.
5. Soft Press and hold again for S_O_S flashing.
6. A FULL PRESS & CLICK at any point in the cycle - turns it off.
7. Sliding the lense end of the torch outwards ZOOMS the illuminated area.

You unscrew the end cap to insert a single Rechargeable 18650 Lithium battery.
This can be purchased with the torch or sepperatly depending on the seller.

The instructions above are important; because at full brightness it runs the battery down faster. Plus the body of the torch gets warm. I would not run it at full power for more than 10 minutes.
Even at the lowest level, it is an effective torch. It is VERY bright, so never point it at someone's eyes.

At maximum brightness; it runs warm (that is normal). But it also seems to use battery power quickly in that mode. At that power; if you run it for 10 minutes, the casing gets warm. I suggest you reduce power for longer periods of use.

Paul.

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I recently bought a new high power rechargeable LED head torch via Ebay (Also available through Amazon) Via this link

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113222222757

It uses two Li-ion 18650 batteries in a battery pack at the rear; and has several modes. The batteries can be charged inside the unit (via a Micro USB cable) which is very convenient for most of us.

It has a cluster of five main fixed focus lamp units on the head unit. Plus a small red lamp in the battery pack at the rear; which can be useful for cycling etc.

The main switch on top of the head unit can be switched into 6 modes. Three levels of wide beam. A very tight spot lamp. All lamps together; and finally a fast flashing mode to contact distant civilisations or ships at sea.

This unit is agressively bright. It is NOT a subtle or variable light, with a zoom. It's just brutal powerful beam. Great for searching for a pet a night; but NOT as a fishing light or reading a book in a tent. If used on the road when cycling; people in trucks will flash you to turn it down.

NEVER point this directly at someone. Even in daylight.

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Some have asked about the rechargeable 18650 Lithium Batteries used for the torch - and head torch, I reviewed recently.

I bought this kit of 4x BRC 18650 4200 mAh  3.7v cells and a mains charger. The batteries can be used in many torches today. They are one of the most common sizes in use; but there are several other sizes of Lithium cells in use; so please check. The 18650 refers to the nominal size. 18mm diameter by 65mm long. They come in various capacities. This type have a cap at one end (just like a domestic Alkaline cell).

When fully charged these batteries output around 4.1v They drop to about 3.6 v when running low. But are often at 3.7v on delivery.  I considder the 4200mAh claimed to be optimistic. These are not prime quality Samsung cells. Also, I have not not put them through several cycles under a specified load; to check performance.

Lithium cells are best stored fully charged; and they hold charge well over time. It is best to supervise Lithium cells being charged. They do get warm;   but if they get HOT - STOP charging immidiatly.

The charger included in this listing; is not a sophisticated unit. Far better designs with more sophisticated monitoring and battery state reporting are available. This design had a standard removable mains lead. Not as shown in the Ebay images.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202358944384
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07/11/2018
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THE PESKY SWITCH THAT IS ALWAYS OFF WHEN YOU ASSUME IT'S ON!
There is a misconception that the electric wall socket switch has something to do with safety, but the only real safety function for a switch was in the days of DC mains supplies.

When a plug is removed from a DC socket there is a tendency to arc. To combat this, early British plugs were equipped with enlarged discs to shield the hand from the arc flash during withdrawal, these were termed "handshields". Later, the incorporation of toggle switches (with "snap action" and double break mechanisms greatly reduce arcing), in sockets became a common way of combating the problem. The switch was set on only after the plug was inserted, and off before withdrawal. To improve this still further there were a number of interlocked socket-outlets developed in Britain, these would not allow plug insertion or withdrawal unless the switch was off, thus handshields became obsolete. Because DC mains supplies had become obsolete, it was decided that BS 1363 would be for AC only, and therefore it was not necessary to incorporate switches into the new sockets.

So, it's official - the only purpose of a switch being in the OFF position on a wall socket is to ensure that people get annoyed by plugging in their almost dead phone and going back an hour later to find it has indeed died!
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PYREX RECTANGULAR DISH WITH PLASTIC LID
I've been experimenting with various bits of kitchenware since I've been up here in North Wales with my mum +Esther Salmon and this has been one of the great finds.

Simple, but effective - every kitchen should have one - or many! It's a Pyrex dish in a oblong shape which is good for freezer, table, cooker, microwave, dishwasher - anything you can throw at it - especially cauliflower cheese!

It comes with a plastic lid which fits superbly well. Tight enough to make a fabulous seal, though not so tight that you can't get it off. Huge confidence enjoyed putting this into the fridge to keep stuff sealed and fresh.

It comes in different sizes, 0.8L, 2.6L and 4L, for different amounts of grub! The 0.8L one is about 8" x 5" x 2", the 2.6L one is 9" x 6" x 2.5" and we don't know about the 4L as we didn't get one. The glass is thick and units surprisingly heavy.

Highly recommended for £5.49, £7 and £11.69 respectively. Excellent quality.
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