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If you want to hone in on the details of spring, like dewy leaves or tiny insects, you may want to decrease your depth of field, and blur out distractions. But what is depth of field? Depth of field is the distance between the nearest and furthest point in your photo that is in focus. A narrow depth of field creates the blurry background found in images with a bokeh effect. There are three main things that affect depth of field:

1. Aperture: A narrow aperture (larger number) will increase your depth of field, and a wide aperture (smaller number) will decrease it
2. Focal length: The focal length of your lens will also affect your depth of field. As a general rule, the longer your focal length is, the shallower your depth of field will be
3. Sensor size: Smaller sensors, such as those found in point and shoot cameras, have a larger depth of field while larger sensors, such as those found in DSLRs, have smaller ones
4. The distance of the subject: the closer the subject, the shallower the depth of field will be. The further away the subject is, the wider the depth of field

(Credit: Alberto Ghizzi Panizza with a #Nikon D500 + #MICRO-#NIKKOR AF 200mm f/4 D ED IF @ f/16 | 1/40s | ISO 100) #Tip #opTipTuesday #macro #macrophotography

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Normally when you depress the shutter button, you only take one photo, but what if you miss your shot? Use Continuous mode to take multiple shots per second, for as long as you hold down the shutter.

Shooting in Continuous mode on your Nikon DSLR improves your chance of capturing the perfect image, even when your subject is a fast moving car, or an insect scurrying in and out of focus. This feature is also useful when shooting portraits, as subtle changes in facial expression can make or break a shot.

Check your camera’s manual to see how to turn on Continuous mode.

(Photo credit: Nikon D800 + AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED @ ƒ/18.0 | 105 mm | 1/200s | ISO 100

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Today's #TopTipTuesday is all about shooting more creative portraits. Bring some colour into your portraits using this simple #DIY hack. It only takes 5 minutes:

1. Wrap up a lamp (e.g. a large flashlight) in colourful cellophane.
2. Shine the lamp on your subject’s face.
3. Use a different colour on each side of the face for the best results.
4. Now try various colours to get your desired effect, or try shining the light through a glass ball or prism.

(Credit: Young Nikon photographer, Tony Myshlyaev, #Nikon D700 + 24.0-70.0 mm f/2.8 @ ƒ/2.8 | 56 mm | 1/60s | ISO 1600 #portrait #photography

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#TopTipTuesday from a #Nikon pro: Lightning can be one of the most dangerous natural phenomena to photograph. Jim Reed shares his settings on how to get a shot like his:

• Set your camera to manual exposure and manual focus.
• Use Nikon’s 3D Color Matrix Metering and put the White Balance on auto.
• Start by setting the shutter to BULB, the aperture to f/5.6, and ISO to 400.
• Close the shutter as soon as the lightning occurs, then review your image on the LCD and make adjustments.
• Consider using a lightning trigger, which causes the shutter to open just when lightning strikes.
• To lower your risks, remain in a hard-topped vehicle and shoot with a window mount.
• The best shot may come in the final hour of a long day - never give up!

(Photograph & tips credit © Jim Reed, Nikon D2X + 17.0-55.0 mm f/2.8 @ ƒ/5.6 | 17mm | 1.4s I ISO 250

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Follow this simple trick to soften the light of your internal camera flash! Take a white business card and use tape to fix it in front of your flash in a 45-degree angle. That’s it! Now most of your light bounces into the ceiling, creating a nice overall illumination. Some of the light will penetrate through the card and illuminate your subject.

Image credit: Digital Camera World. #TopTipTuesday

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#DidYouKnow your camera may not always produce the exposure you intended. Picture yourself shooting a portrait against the setting sun. Instead of the silhouette effect you were aiming for, your camera exposes for the subject in the foreground, and blows out the sky. That’s where Exposure Compensation comes in. You can make your photography brighter or darker by selecting the “+/-” icon on your camera screen (see manual for details). #TopTipTuesday

(Credit: Caledonia Alan with a Nikon D610 + NIKKOR 24.0-70.0 mm f/2.8 shot @ ƒ/11.0 | 24.0 mm | 1/125 | ISO 400)

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Blowing dust, spinning front wheels, blurred background & sharp car: ever wondered how you can shoot motion like in Andreas Tsonis' shot? Follow these tips to master this #panning technique:

1. Experiment with slow shutter speeds (e.g. ¼ second), different settings will work best depending on the speed of your subject.
2. Switch on Vibration Reduction (VR) for a sharper image.
3. Use continuous servo AF when the subjects are moving in unpredictable ways.
4. To guarantee sharpness, freeze your subject and use a flash on rear-curtain sync.
5. Now you only need to practice the perfectly smooth panning move! As you take your shot, move the camera to follow the subject.

(Credit: 'Skoda Fabia R5 testing @Greece' was shot by Andreas Tsonis with a #Nikon D5100 + NIKKOR 18.0-105.0 mm f/3.5-5.6, shot @ ƒ/13.0 | 18.0 mm | 1/60s | ISO 100 #TopTipTuesday

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It’s often difficult to avoid harsh #light when you’re out shooting outdoors. Sometimes, it can be a benefit and Colin does a great job in this shot. Follow these tips to make the best out of the difficult lighting.

• Keep your ISO as low as possible (ISO 100), as there’s plenty of light to work with.
• Shoot in RAW for more flexibility in post processing.
• Put your subject between you and the sun and expose for the face.
• A good alternative is to place the sun just outside the frame or partly behind the person.
• Use manual mode – with strong backlight, you have to overexpose significantly to light the subject’s face.

(Credit: 'Stranger #12: Anita' by Colin Strain with a #Nikon D600 + NIKKOR 85.0 mm f/1.8 shot @ ƒ/2.0 | 85.0 mm | 1/400s | ISO 200. Check out how he looked & acheived the light in this shot here #TopTipTuesday

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Usually we work hard to avoid lens flare. But perhaps next time try this: take advantage of it in your portraits with the following tips:

• Position your model between the camera and the sun.
• Set your camera to aperture priority mode and expose for the model.
• Use a reflector to bounce more light on the model for a balanced exposure.
• If the flare obscures your model, place the sun near the edge of your frame instead.
• Avoid looking directly at the sun through your viewfinder – consider using Live View mode.

(Photo credit: Kevin Hardman with his Nikon D3100 + 50.0 mm f/1.8 shot @ ƒ/1.8 | 50.0 mm | 1/500s | ISO 100

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Seek leading lines to draw your viewers’ eyes into the image. Adithya Anand does a great job with this shot!

Leading lines, such as roads or railways, connect the foreground to the background of your image and add depth to your shot. They are particularly powerful when leading up to a specific subject, but can be equally effective when that subject is infinity. Leading lines can be found everywhere around you – roads, pathways, stairs, mountain ranges and so on - be creative, the options are almost endless :) .

(Credit: Adithya Anand with his #Nikon D7000 + NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G shot @ ƒ/4.0 | 70.0mm | 1/160s | ISO 400) #TopTipTuesday
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