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Eric Pavey
CG, art, projects, chocolate
CG, art, projects, chocolate
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Eric's posts

As part of my bot update, I want to insulate the underside of my heated bed: It's 12" square: Any recommendations on adhesive cork sheets? I've seen some people with those on their machines.
Thanks

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What does everyone think of my sweet new C-Bot core-xy build? Small is the new big, this thing should clock in with a 2" build platform!

Joking of course, I'm just printing new parts for my existing bot, and though I'd mock them up with the cuttoffs from my last build ;)
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What you guys think of my awesome new build? I think it should max out with a 8" cubed build volume! Small is the new big!

Joking of course, I'm printing all new parts for my existing bot, and mocking them up with the cuttoffs from my original build ;) The astute viewer will notice the top right rear idler bracket has even longer connectors on the bottom: I just made these for even more rigidity, based on the DBot design. Since my volcano nozzle hangs so low from the gantry, I have plenty of space for stuff like this.
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I've written a pretty in-depth (IMO) comparison of Simplify3D and Slic3r Prusa Edition. This started as something mainly for myself, but I thought others may find it informative too. I've been a S3D user for over two years now, and it has been great... but because certain major issues have yet to be improved that I regularly stumble into, I thought I'd see what else was out on the market since I last looked. After much research & consideration, decided to give Slic3r Prusa Edition a go. I look forward to any thoughts you may have.
http://www.akeric.com/blog/?p=4164

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Recently did a pretty in-depth comparison of Simplify3D and Slic3r Prusa Edition. For your consideration :)
http://www.akeric.com/blog/?p=4164


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Anyone running ballscrews on their bot? I'm out of options, still getting z-wobble, despite to the naked eye, my leadscrew is perfectly straight. Figured I'd try another upgrade. I thought i may be 'z ribbing' too (per the attached article), and set my z-height to full steps, but it's still present.
Anyway, looking for either reputable ballscrew suppliers, and any other mounting hardware people have used. Thx.

Slicer poll: What is everyone using to generate their gcode?

I've been using Simplify3D for the past couple years, but (considering I paid $$$ for it) their lack of decent updates and some major issues with their 'automatic support' have helped move me in another direction : After some Q&A here:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/3dprintertipstricksreviews/QHNAfAFy6mE
That helped direct me towards the 'Prusa Edition' of Slic3r, which looks really promising:
https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases
Regular releases (compared to vanilla Slic3r), some new cool features like variable print height and cubic infill.

I've been playing with it this weekend and have got arguably better results out of it than S3D. Only issue was, since I'm running RepRapFirmware, it thought my hotend cooler fan was my print (PLA) cooler fan, which caused my hotend cooler to turn off at start (then slowly turn on later), while my print cooler never turned on at all. Luckily I was able to author a gcode postprocessor (which it supports) in Python that solved this.

In fact, (IMO) the only major thing that Slic3r is missing that S3D has is S3D's 'multiple processes' (which I only use 5% of the time anyway), but it has other features that come awfully close. In fact, I love the fact you can save separate configurations for you printer hardware, for your filament, and for the print settings, then mix and match as needed. That's awesome. Plus, who doesn't love a Hilbert Cube as your roof layer pattern?

But anyway, I digress: What's everyone else using as their gcode slicer?

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Z-wobble saga continues. Man, everything about my bot is locked in but this.

Once again, z-wobble seems to be coming back, even though I've purchased new leadscrews. I was about to re-straighten my whole machine, which I wasn't looking forward to, when I figured I'd try something easier first: I was running my stepper drivers at 1/32 microstepping, but since I have a RADDS board, I can push them up to 1/128: Why not, never tried before.

The good: Overall, just better quality all around in all departments. And at first I thought the z-wobble was gone entirely.

The bad: But under inspection, I realized z-wobble is still there. It's much less then before, at 1/32: At distance to the naked eye you don't really notice it. But if you take a flat plane and hold it up to the light, you can easily make it out via the PLA's specular.

Before the stepper driver change it was more of a wobble in the print and generally poor vertical Z quality (XY has always been good). Now, it's a square-tooth pattern, exactly 2mm apart, the same pitch as the leadscrew. So it's got to be leadscrew related, right? I printed the below tower in vase mode... so I'm having a hard time figuring out how a constant rotational turn of the leadscrew would result in a square-stepped pattern.

I had to really try to get the artifacts to show up in the below pic by getting the light to shine on it just right. But it's driving me bonkers. Any thoughts appreciated.
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Couldn't figure out why my print was under extruding. During the debugging process I noticed what you see in the pic...
I had printed it with "normal" pla, and it finally have up, but after many hundreds of hours of use. New version is in Makergeeks Raptor PLA, so I'm hoping it'll last a bit longer ;)
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So, it's back again : Crazy z-wobble. I've done nothing to my machine since I purchased a new leadscrew to fix the problem (which it did), but once again I have crazy z-wobble showing up again in my prints. No point posting pics, you can clearly see the pitch of the leadscrews in the z-height . I'm mainly just venting, but also genuinely confused as to what would make this show up with a vengeance again. Other than me smashing into a leadscrew, which I have no memory doing.

Any offhand thoughts on what to poke at with a stick?
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