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Scott Marshall
Love all things technical.
Love all things technical.

Scott Marshall's posts

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For all of you who want to know but are afraid to ask...

How to update Laserweb3
Due to popular demand
Scott Marshall (ALL-Tek Systems)
Note, this is how I do it, there may be other methods, but this gets you there.
Type text in quotes, <CR> is enter

Command screens opens.

“rename Laserweb3 Laserweb3Old”<CR>

(changes to root directory and saves the old laserweb3 as LaserwebOld in case you want to revert to it and clears the directory for the new version)

“git clone”<CR>

(New Laserweb will download)

“npm install”<CR>

(installs Laserweb3 current version)

“node server-smoothie.js”<CR>

Starts Laserweb3

You should get the usual confirmation screen
Open chrome and proceed as before.

Hope this helps out a few people


ACR Boards are running very thin, I've closed sales on the website, but have a few left I discovered this morning while cleaning up the debris caused by selling most all of the 26 original boards. If you want one, drop me a note, I have 3 or 4 left at most.

A Sincere "Thank You" is owed to all of you who had faith in me and 'took a chance' on my kits. I'm proud to say feedback has been great, and the couple of people that did have problems had them handled quickly and to everyone's satisfaction.
Thanks to all who bought a kit, help me learn what I needed to get it working properly and to Yuusuf, who has done a great job keeping my little website up and going.

I've ordered a few prototypes for the next batch, which I'll be calling the ACR Mark II (mostly because it sounds good). They'll be essentially the same thing but have 6 onboard indicators, 3.3v, 5v & 24v PSU lights,as well as LEDs for X & Y Endstops and Laser fire. It will use a switching regulator which needs only a small onboard heatsink so it's all on the board (the 1st generation had regulators on the frame for heatsinking).
Other features are a 12 pin header with 5v TTL Logic outputs for connecting a front panel LED array or driving homebrew gadgets and last but not least is the Fire input will be intrinsically safe, requiring a POSITIVE logic input to fire the laser. This will require changing 1 line of the config file but is well worth it, as the laser is held firmly OFF while the Smoothie boots.

Teaser photos below.

I started this endeavor just to do something nice for the community and keep myself occupied since I was forcibly retired by illness back in '98. I was fortunate my ills were at an ebb while I was getting the ACR designed up and built, but near the end, (the last month especially) I've gotten worse, and once again am fighting to keep working. It's slowed me down, but not stopped me. I still have a bunch of nice stuff I hope to offer they community for "Nongineers" and experimenters alike. Please bear with my limited pace, I'm confident I'll work around it somehow.

I'm pleased to announce an agreement with Art Wolf, we've been discussing things and ALL-Tek is now an authorized Smoothieboard dealer . We'll be working together to bring you the best easy-upgrading combo you could hope for.

I have a few other goodies either already in production or coming very soon, there's the USB Quick Disconnect which brings your Smoothieboard USB connection to the outside of the K40, and offers automatic or manual on/off control of the connection, so no more unplugging to reboot the Smoothie, just flip a switch or turn your K40 off for a second, and you're rebooted.

Also, for the Non-"Nongineer" I'm going to be offering a plug in level switcher, plugs into the Smoothie and the K40 PSU with no tools. It gets the fire signal there on a optically isolated link with a MOSFET with an Rds of < 300mohm so you get 100% of your laser's output power with the bandwith to support even aggressive PWM action. Available very soon.

Thw long awaited Switchables are on deck, and once I've taken care of the outstanding ACR orders and support, I'll be jumping on them. I'm a little behind schedule on that front, but the ACR orders were coming in too fast to cope with for a while there. I'm looking into getting some fab help to ease my work load. That will give me a break when I'm sick, which is a fact of life for me, and let me work on new projects, R&D being what I love to do.

Thanks again, and sorry for running on so long here, it's my nature, as you probably know by now.

Now for the spy shots...

Well, I guess it's just one, I can't seem to add one on . More later.

My new very nice looking RED K40 arrived today. I'd like to share it's RED wonderfulness, but I still can't figure out why I suddenly can't post photos. (I have some ACR photos I'd like to put up and a very nice "PSU guide" with photos I'd also like to contribute.

ANybody! help. Yuusuf reduced one for me. no go. I made one monochrome, no go. I put some in an album. No go.

I start here, browse to the photo, the wheel goes around, and then, where I used to see my picture, nothing. Right back to the text box, no error, no nothing.

It used to work great.

Right now it's getting dark and I should go drag my nice new (NO apparent damage - hope that's not jinxing me, I haven't opened the lid yet) RED Laser into the shop lest it get damp.

Did I mention it's RED.?? Very cool, A RED blue box.


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If anybody is interested, it's $29.95. 

My turn.
I was preparing a kit to ship the other day and powered on the laser tube to burn the now traditional bat (if you bought one, you've seen my mascot) and there was a Poof from the rear of the laser (I have to plead guilty on having the rear cover off as I'm testing pumps) and out flies a mortally wounded giant moth.

He generated quite the orange ball of fire and an audible pop. It was hot in my lab and I had the windows open a bit the evening before, and he must have liked the warm laser tube (water is warm from pump testing) and it seems he moved into the recess in the business end of the tube. little did he know it was fixing to get a bit warmer...

Poof! Worthy of Starwars if properly filmed. I'm sure... Death Star fires on Mothra...

Anyways, directorial dreams aside, It was still lasing, but weak (but at near normal current - I burn bats on drawing paper so it's only just firing, maybe 2ma) - turning it up didn't help much. A quick look revealed something didn't look right, but I didn't feel well and just now am looking into it.

I have NO idea how a moth in the beam could do this, but the mirror has come loose and is tilted in the tube which it's mounted. The edge of the cylinder is blued from heat. It had plenty of water flowing, I'm running a pump large enough for any 3 or 4 of these lasers, throttled down. I had a new PE-1 on it a few hours before the boom and all was working well. I was increasing tubing to 3/8" to see what gains could be had from that change, and switched back to my "adjustable" S1200 bypass setup. It was flowing about 3gpm when it happened, and the 1st thing I checked was the hot end and it was fully flooded.

Anyway I just ordered another Laser (Hoping for the cool red and gray one in the picture) from Globalfreeshipping for $315. They have tubes for $135, but I'm hoping to try my hand at making "how to" upgrade videos - which is probably more than I have time for, realistically. If it ends up in the budget or lack thereof, I'll probably freshen up the ole blue box, stencil a moth on her door, and keep right on running her for testing duty.

Lots of new goodies in the works, available now are the "Quick Disconnect" - a switchbox that goes on your K40 and allows automatic/manual disconnection of your USB so you don't have to keep unplugging and switching off the K40 to do a reboot. The manual version is $24.95, the man/auto version is $29.95. $5 shipping. Also to go with it is a nice double shielded USB cable 10 feet long transparent insulation like 'hospital grade' devices, with Ferrite on both ends. Arguable the quietest USB cable for a fair price anywhere. 10 bucks. Buy both for $34.95
That stuff will be up on the website soon, as will my power supplies with ACTUAL voltage and current displays (replaces panel insert) in your choice of digital (choice of backlight color LCD) or very cool retro corner hung analog meters.

I want to thank everyone who has had faith in me and ordered a kit, I hope you are all very satisfied with them, and I will continue to provide the best service I can manage, given my health slowing me down from time to time. Things aren't moving as fast as I'd like, but at least I'm working again after almost 20 years being sidelined.
Thanks Guys, This group is a shining star on the internet.


I've got some good shots of the mirror/ground electrode, but seem to have lost my ability to post photos. It's not size related. I also have a Marked up K40 PSU photo that answers all the How to connect questions, but can't post that either.
I click on the photo, the wheel goes around, stops, and it goes right back to the text only post. Any ideas?

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This is great info. It will make you think twice next time you hit fire with the lid up.
Every section here is gold, well worth reading through them.

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I just created this page as an addition to my ACR installation manual and it occured to me that it may be useful to people changing their power supply.
So here it is. I hope it proves useful to the K40 Group


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Which type of power supply is your K40 equipped with?
The "GREEN"? The "WHITE"? - Something different??

Take a quick look and let us know.
I've been selling the conversion kits which require the user tie in here, and up until recently, I was under the impression the Green type were relatively rare. It seems that's not the case. I'm updating my kits to include the Green and White connectors as standard.

One trait of the "Green" Power supplies is the fan grille is centered on the PSU cover, and often doesn't have a fan. (This might be a cheap upgrade for those with the 'unpopulated' fan grille)
The "White" Power supplies seem to have the fan located in the front right corner of the cover and include a fan which runs whenever the PSU is powered (as opposed to coming on based on heat level)

Please weigh in on the power supply question, maybe we'll find the difference is where your K40 was made, maybe it will be when - possibly newer models have the Green supply.

I'm not completely sure, but I believe both variations are made by the same manufacturer "JNMYDY" - the White ones are for sure. (website is for the English version, and includes specs and pinouts for some variations. This one is known as the "Rubber Stamp" PSU. Maybe the K40 was originally used for engraving rubberstamps? - You never know what you'll find when you follow the K40 scavenger hunt...

Mines a White, and the 4 I just got in are also white, So plug-in adapters are now in production here at ALL-TEK.
votes visible to Public
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GREEN PSU Connector
Poll option image
WHITE PSU Connector

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Still working on my motor problem (interuppted as I wasn't feeling well)

I swapped out Smoothieboards and now can't communicate. I even tried putting the SD card from the 'working' board, replacing the firmware with a freshly downloaded copy. No dice.

Once I have this hurdle worked through, I am looking at the pulse rate and accel ramps in the stock config file. They don't look right to me (unless there's aomething happening there I don't see at a glance - 100khz seems awful fast to me even at 1/16 stepping)

I found a video converter (thanks Yuusuf for the Handbrake tip) and will once again try posting my motor symptoms)

1st thing though is I need to find my com error cause.
The USB port seems to be hooking up fine, but when I start LaserWeb3, I keep getting a "file not found" See photo.

I have no way of knowing what file Laserweb3 is looking for. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks, Scott

I'm trying to post video of my K40 motor problem. Never tried that before and seem to have a problem. It's just over a minute of .MOV (154mb). After it uploads, I just get a grayed out Google screen, I can play the video, but thwere's no way to continue thru and post it.

Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
(couldn't seem to find an Google help or FAQ anywhere)

Thanks, Scott

Still finding odd problems.

Been using steppers for years, and I know I've seen this before, I vaguely remember a tight leadscrew doing it once and a microstep drive problem or setting doing it, but it's been a long time.

Both my motors are holding solid, but they start at random directions and don't have much power. The board is counting, but not always accurately, like it's missing steps. It SOUNDS like a microstep duration issue, but the Smoothie seems to be locked at 16 steps per.
I flipped polarity on each phase (although it shouldn't matter) and it didn't (matter). Moved the current pwm setting up and down, no change..

I know I should remember what does this, but please help refresh my memory.

I'm used to the older drivers like Geckos and such, Only used the driver on a chip setup a few times just playing with my mill.
I read over the spec sheet on the Allegros, but nothings ringing a bell.

Anybody know what's causing this? I'd sincerely appreciate it. I've never had so much trouble getting a controller running in my life.

Thanks, Scott
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