"In this amazing feature, Surfline, a fantastic surf forecasting service, delivers the science behind a truly awesome break to behold. They do a wonderful job explaining the geology, wave force and period, tides and peculiarities that come together to give us Maverick's." (via +Boing Boing
And to learn more, here's the Science of Big Waves - KQED QUEST
story featuring renowned surfer Grant Washburn.