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Ben Delarre
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Ben Delarre

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Trying to figure out a power system for this years ridiculous Burning Man project, wondering if you guys might be able to offer some thoughts.

I have a current draw for my piece of somewhere between 2 and 6 amps at 12v. (1.8amps of that is LEDs through a 5v regulator, the other is stepper motor draw so 3amps when engaged and 0 when off hence the wide range).

I have a generator which I can use to power the piece, but its tank only lasts about 8hrs and I'd like the piece to run day and night if possible. Now I could just get off my ass and fill it up 3 times a day, but that would be unpleasant, so I'm considering the following setup.

Generator -> 15A 12v Battery Charger -> 115ah Deep Cycle battery -> 30ft of 12awg speaker wire -> into the piece, 12v tapped directly for steppers, 5v 10A regulator for everything else (input range of 12-24v for the regulator so it should be ok when the charger kicks up the voltage).

That way when the generator runs out of the fuel the battery should be able to keep me going for a good few hours and I can fill up twice a day rather than 3 times.

Is there any fault in this logic? Anyone done this sort of thing before?
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PaulStoffregen's profile photocrispin soFat's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photoLuminous Elements's profile photo
21 comments
 
That's less than 50% DoD; you'll be fine as long as it gets a charge each day.
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Ben Delarre

Discussion  - 
 
Another year another burning man project. Not got anything to show yet (soon maybe). But I have a question about the dithering in fastled vs fadecandy.

Fastled on a teensy 3.1 is usually my goto for this sort of thing. I have around 350 ws2812 LEDs to drive and I know it will do the job in a single strip just fine. Makes wiring easy.

My question is would I actually get any better visible fading effects with fadecandy? Or could I achieve the same with fastled dithering and limiting my strip length to 64 pixels?
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Daniel Garcia's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photo
7 comments
 
Hmm. That is tempting yeah I guess it's just a bit more wire really. Guess I will give fadecandy a go.
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Ben Delarre

Show and Tell  - 
 
Finally happy with this print quality!

After gluing my bowden adapter ring back into its housing and tweaking my bowden path a little, and also reducing my retract speed (3600mm/min is too much even for the might bondtech!).

Generally pretty happy with this result now, I have a couple of small holes in the top layer near the front right of the bow, not quite sure how they're sneaking in, perhaps my filament is slightly smaller than I specified, and there was one random string when the head moved from the tip of the bow to the cabin area, again not sure what caused that but I think mostly an anomaly. Good enough now though I think!

Tips for those tuning:

1) If you think you got your E steps right the first time, think again, go back and try again. Mine was out by almost 4% even though I could have sworn it was correct last time I set it.

2) Use Eric Liens settings, they're good:

0.5mm extrusion width
5.5mm retraction distance
-0.1 extra restart distance
1500 retraction speed
0.2mm coast

If you're using Simplify3d, use the 'Only retract when crossing open spaces', and 'Force retraction between layers' settings also.

3) Ensure your filament doesn't have a knot in it! (yes...no idea how that happened but the filament must have got under itself at some point and created a knot which definitely will ruin your day).
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Chris Brent's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photoRicardo de Sena's profile photo
6 comments
 
Chis thanks!!!
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Ben Delarre

Discussion  - 
 
Finally! This I think is a good point to stop tweaking for now.

Turns out I had to tighten the x axis motor belt, I had completely forgot about the motor belts, and was busily tightening all the other belts on the machine but not thinking about that one at all.

Tighter belts and the combination of retraction negative restart distance of 0.3 mm and the 0.2mm coasting distance have cleaned everything up considerably.-

Thanks all! And let my stupidity be a lesson to everyone else :-)
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Eric Lien's profile photo
 
Tiny bit more tuning on retract, coast, and negative restart and you will be there. But great looking results.
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Ben Delarre

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Slowly getting there....3d printer almost dialled in!
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Ben Delarre

Discussion  - 
 
Its printing! Though it needs quite some dialling in at this point.

Lots and lots of stringing, and the top of the benchy got destroyed near the end, not sure quite why. I suspect the massive build up of stringing resulted in the nozzle knocking it off.

This is with an E3D v6, 0.4mm nozzle with a Bondtech v2 extruder.

Current retract is 3mm at 60mm/s, printed started at 190 and moved down to 180, but still stringing.

Any suggestions?
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Eric Lien's profile photoMutley3D's profile photoOliver Seiler's profile photo
2 comments
 
Ben, not bad for a first print at all. Perhaps not as much dialling in as you might think :)
1. I see slight but irregular Z artifacting - check Prusa Z height calculator for setting a precise layer height for your chosen layer height. http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/ << scroll down toward bottom of page
2. Decrease retract speed and increase retract length (for the stringing) since temps seem reasonable although a bit higher might help as +Eric Lien suggests
3. Also some ringing/ripple is evident on short straight areas, try decreasing X and Y axis accelerations to reduce this if you wish
The caveat...belts and nozzle are assumed as tight - also check pulley grub screws are tight tight :)
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Ben Delarre

Discussion  - 
 
Ok guys I need some more help again.

Got the machine back together and what I thought was moving correctly. Got my e3d extruding nicely and my bondtech extruder working perfectly.

So I decided to run the full burn-in gcode again now that I'd got everything settled in.

Works great for about half an hour, then all of a sudden something sticks. Last time it was the z axis sticking on an upwards move, previous time it was xy. So I quickly kill the machine when the steppers start making that godawful noise, power it all back up again after a reset and everything is moving fine.

Since this was the second time it happened I figured, oh the steppers must be overheating, so I checked their temps before killing the machine and they weren't that hot at all, nowhere near where I would expect them to be having thermal issues anyway. Warm, but not hot.

To recap, I've oiled everything, the XY shafts and Z smooth rod with sewing machine oil and the Z leadscrews with synthetic grease.

Each time this happens I've tried reseating the xy bearing block holders and jiggling my z clamps around a bit and I think I've got it all working, I'll get halfway through the burn-in and then it'll do this again.

I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do now. Any suggestions? Is it time I just gave up on my plastic parts and asked one of you kind folks to print me some new ones?
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Daniel fielding's profile photoOliver Seiler's profile photoVic Catalasan's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photo
15 comments
 
Not a bad idea, I'll try that after a complete rebuild if the problems are still occuring.
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Ben Delarre

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I has workbench! 
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Ben Delarre

Discussion  - 
 
Hey all,

Another weekend, another day of tweaking. Managed to get print quality much better than last time, then my bowden tube started popping out of my Bondtech extruder.

Anyone experience this? It seems I can't complete a print now without this happening. Its happened 3 or 4 times now. This started after I switched to some cheap filament that definitely had a clogging issue, the nozzle clogged and then the bowden adapter popped out of its housing.

Since then it has happened 3 or 4 times with this blue filament which I've been using from the start and is generally good (protoparadigm).

I had wondered if the bowden path was pad, I know tight turns are to be avoided. I've included a couple of shots of the hot end at its various positions, near, middle and far. This popped out this time while printing around the center of the bed.

Is there a better way of hooking up the bowden? I've been considering adding some extra extrusion to mount the extruder above the printer and just have the bowden coming downwards to the hot end. Anyone tried that?
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Eric Lien's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photoOliver Seiler's profile photo
20 comments
 
Oh...interesting, maybe I'll do that then :-)
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Ben Delarre

Discussion  - 
 
Getting a lot of z-ribbing still. It perfectly lines up with my leadscrew so I'm assuming some sort of software vs mechanical problem?

This is printed at 0.1920 layer height which according to the prusa calculator should be an even number of steps for the eustathios.

I've checked and its definitely not a wobble since the rib expands and contracts across the piece rather than to one side or the other.

This is on a 16microstepping smoothieboard, with the 20 tooth pulley on the 1.8deg stepper and the 32 tooth on the leadscrews.

I plan to try a bunch of other layer heights tomorrow.
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Walter Hsiao's profile photoEric Lien's profile photoJim Wilson's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photo
17 comments
 
Haha very true!
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Ben Delarre

Discussion  - 
 
Much much better with 6mm retract and modifying layer height to 0.1920.

Still getting some definitely z banding on the tower though, not sure if thats an artifact of slicing or not since the main body of the boat does not exhibit it.

I used cool z lift to try and get the chimney to not melt since I was having problems with that before, but its left a lot of artifacts from ooze so maybe I'll try again without that.

Very happy with this result though!
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Ben Delarre's profile photoEric Lien's profile photo
7 comments
 
Great news.
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Ben Delarre

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Thanks to the fantastic @Eric Lien I now have a functioning Eustathios V2!

I'll post some better photos later (wife has the camera), but I have to say that it is SO much easier to assemble when you start from accurate parts and Erics parts are absolutely lovely, I almost thought they were molded when I got them out of the box.

Anyway, once I am fully functional and have my heated bed installed I will be offering up a set of Eustathios V2 parts for the Print It Forward program. However....(of course, this couldn't be that easy could it!).

Anyone experienced a temperature drop using an E3D V6 hotend? I've PID autotuned on the smoothieboard and updated my values appropriately. The hotend reaches 200 degrees in about a minute which is awesome using a 24v cartridge from e3d. However once the print starts the temperature drops a good 20 degrees down to around the 180 mark and won't climb any further.

I thought it might be the powersupply but thats not even working all that hard, the fan isn't even coming up and its a Jameco 240W 24V supply....is that enough? Did I screw up my math? Or is my smoothieboard just a bit pants? I do suspect the power supply as I noticed when printing smaller areas where the movements were less the temperature rises again.

The hotend is connected to the smoothieboard via 22AWG wire and its warm but not hot.
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Ben Delarre's profile photoEric Lien's profile photoFrank Helmschrott's profile photobrendon gee's profile photo
22 comments
 
+Ben Delarre funny thing - i just read about this warnings on the E3D site the other day and tuned my retract down from 6mm to 2mm which they suggest for bowden use. They say the E3D needs much less than others. I already had 6mm on a v5 bowden before which worked great and haven't had too much issues with that so far on the v6.

Turns out 2mm is way too less for me. I turned it up to 4mm and this is already closed to perfect. On materials that come out rather liquid (like PLA and PETG) it's quite not enough but i think 4,5 or 5mm will do it. Definitely keep the speed at 60mm/s or even higher if you can. That will help.

Regarding e-steps tuning on the extruder: Be sure to watch every aspect - especially filament diameter and set your slicer accordingly. I lately played with esteps too much not noticing that the filament diameter was the issue which i totally forgot to set in the Slicer. I'd also suggest to use a more accurate slicer like Slic3r for tuning. Cura or other more simple slicers sometimes offer enough settings if you're going to print to exact measures.

For the start/end g-code i often do a line from left to right at the starting point, 5mm forward and then a parallel line back. All of that with a little bit overextrusion and a clean manual retract at the end. that helps me keep the nozzle clean and get the filament right to the tip of the nozzle.

Here's an example of a Start-G-Code i used with Cura in Repetier Host (you may of course use it anywhere but the temp variables only work with cura) before http://pastebin.com/raw.php?i=vkwV3zgh some comments included - maybe that helps as a starter.
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