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Ben Delarre
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Ben Delarre

Show off your work!  - 
 
+Jason Coon pointed out that I hadn't shared this with you all yet. So here we go.

This is the Burning Man project we took along last year. Some of you may remember I was asking about power requirements and FadeCandy last July. We ended up using a Raspberry Pi and a FadeCandy to drive the LEDs, and I have to say I really like FadeCandy, the transitions are just so effortlessly smooth thanks to its built in color fading.

The reason it was called Zen Ball is a whole other long story I won't go into here, but you can check it out and a whole load of constructions pics here: http://delarre.net/posts/burningman-2015-zenball/

Sadly we're not going to Burning Man this year, so I have a year off from mammoth projects, but I'm hoping to come back with something ridiculous next time ;-)
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Marc Miller's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photoHunter King's profile photo
6 comments
 
Nice.
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Ben Delarre

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Thought I would give Chilipeppr another shot today as I'd quite like to get back to a more graphical controller for my CNC with a TinyG V9 (running the released G2 firmware).

After many hours of playing around I am horribly disappointed. Two very major problems keep cropping up.

Firstly, most of the time I can't even get a job to start. I press play, and it streams across the first 1000 lines instantly, then continues to send across 50 lines at a time, but the machine never starts moving and none of the lines are executed. The devices basically stops responding at this point and I have to restart the tinyg and serialport json server before I can control it again. Any idea whats up with that?

When I do get a job to start, it runs mostly fine, but then just stops somewhere near the end but not actually at the end. Again same situation, the device is no longer responding and everything needs restarting before it will talk to Chilipeppr again.

Something is clearly very wrong in the streaming side of things, but this is all over a pretty stable network wired to the Raspberry Pi 2 running SPJS. Its not like this is my first rodeo either, but I honestly can't make head nor tail of whats wrong with this.

Just to make sure it wasn't my TinyG or some other part of my setup I switched back over to Fabmo Engine and everything's working perfectly. Is there some magic setting somewhere for v9 (besides the ?v9=true on the workspace url).
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Ray Kholodovsky's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photoJohn Lauer's profile photo
9 comments
 
Well, that's what SPJS does. It's just that it keeps everything in RAM cuz that's all I ever got around to. Today's limit compiled in is 200,000 lines which was just a number I picked that I thought was safe. You could let RAM go way higher in an unbounded way by not using channels like I do and instead using a fifo queue that you dequeue on your own. Or write it to disk and then read off of that. Not sure that would solve anything for you though. If you are getting a pause on your job it's because the send/recv is getting out of sync which doesn't make sense to me since that is debugged to all living hell and works great. Only thing that could happen is if an r:{} doesn't come back from your firmware like SPJS expects cuz EVERYTHING pivots off of that r:{} coming back which lets SPJS know it can then send in another line.
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Watch this on your phone with the youtube app, slightly unnerving watching a rocket descend on you!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDK5TF2BOhQ
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Ben Delarre
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Discussion  - 
 
Anyone had any problems getting their SSRs to work with their 110v heated beds?

I've got a 500W 110v silicone heating pad, with the live wire routed through a Fotek SSR-25da and neutral directly connected to the other wire on the bed. My Smoothieboard is connected to the SSR through P1.23 (PWM capable pin), and configured to drive the pwm_frequency at 20. The SSR indicator light turns on when expected, but the bed does not heat.

I've confirmed the bed works by hooking it up directly to live and neutral, but through the SSR I get nothing. I've tried using bang bang to drive the SSR too and still nothing.

From what I understand of the way AC SSRs work its pretty hard to measure if they are 'open' or not since they need AC current to drive them.

Anyone got any ideas? I've tried two different Fotek SSR-25das from two different suppliers but no luck yet.
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Gústav K Gústavsson's profile photoNathan Walkner's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photoEric Lien's profile photo
15 comments
 
+Ben Delarre great news and glad to hear you upgraded to the Omron. I sent my spares out to people who had fires almost start due to critical failure on those cheap SSR's.
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Will work CNC for Gingerbread Men. Yum.
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Ben Delarre

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Congratulations to everyone at SpaceX, that was a hell of a thing to watch...still trying to get my hearing back from all the cheering :-)
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Ben Delarre

Show off your work!  - 
 
Threw together a little box for a Pro Trinket tonight to run FastLED for some WS2801 hanging on some trees at a camp site. Its a pretty tight fit over a 6v lantern battery. You mount some crocodile clips and some wires inside to attach to the battery, and there's a little mount for the trinket.

Thankfully with a 6ft cable out to the LEDs there's enough voltage drop to let the 6v drive the LEDs directly without the need for a regulator, and the Pro Trinket happily takes 6v on its Bat+ input so this was really easy electronically speaking. I've set the power usage to about 500ma max, so the 11ah in the lantern battery should last me all weekend easily.

I reckon with a little bit of hotglue in a few places this will be water proof enough for a weekend outside. I'll throw up the STL's somewhere later once I've printed a couple more and confirmed I'm not going to tweak it anymore.
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Jon Bruno's profile photo
 
Great idea and nice execution! i'll be watching for those STL's.. ;-)
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Ben Delarre

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Finally decided to get round to setting up probing on my TinyG V9. Followed various advice from various people and still haven't got any further.

My current setup is as follows:

Touch plate connected to DI5 (zmin).
470ohm resistor from DI5 to 3.3v
100nf capacity between DI5 and Ground.
Other side of touchplate connected to Ground.

Here's the setup of my $di5 input:
$di5mo=0 (Active Low)
$di5fn=1 (Limit)
$di5ac=1 (Stop)

Build and firmware version:
[fb] firmware build 83.09
[fbs] firmware build " 083.09-116-gf418"
[fv] firmware version 0.98

I hook up the clip from the touchplate to the bit, and put the touchplate below the bit and start the probe command.

Pretty reliably now the head will move down towards the plate, and will touch it, then stop, then proceed to continue moving into the plate. Not good.

So I've setup a little test with some foam underneath the touchplate to let me avoid destroying my setup. I've discovered that when the bit hits the probe the first time it pauses for a very short moment, then proceeds in the same direction. If I move the plate away from the bit (opening the switch) after the first contact and close the circuit again by bringing the plate back into contact with the bit then the end of the probing is properly detected.

Now I know +Sebastian Szafran you were going through similar issues before, what was the eventual solution? +Riley Porter any suggestions?
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Rob Giseburt's profile photoBen Delarre's profile photo
3 comments
 
Yeah it looks like a debounce issue, I've done some more testing this morning and can reliably reproduce it without moving the machine and just touching the probe and clip together. It'll happen about 30% of the time or so and stick on, then release on the next touch. Let me know if there's anything I can do to help, happy to test out builds.
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Ben Delarre
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Discussion  - 
 
I'm trying to battle the z-ribbing that I've pretty much always had on my Eustathios, V2 and I've just had a thought that I would love someone here to explain to me.

Z-ribbing is where your layer height is incompatible with your z-axis full steps, this results in a small cumulative error that occurs as your z axis steps through your layer heights. This error creates thicker and thinner layers in a regular pattern as you progress through Z. This is supposedly easily solved by picking a layer height that matches the full steps of your z-axis.

On the Eustathios with 16:32 gear ratios and 2mm pitch leadscrew this results in layer heights of 0.1920 or 0.2080. I've tried these, and 0.2 to no avail, and its definitely ribbing and not wobble since its not shifting the layer but making the layers fatter or thinner as we go through Z. Its also not filament diameter issue since that would change depending on the length of filament extruded in the layer and no matter what size object I print the ribbing stays the same frequency.

So, this got me to thinking. The idea that you should always be on a full step for every layer is sound, the motors are much more accurate on full steps and will hold positions reliably there. But we zero at the top of our axis on Eustathios. This means that when we get to Z=0 we've moved the motors to get there and there's no guarantee we're actually at a full step when we zero out at all. So could we be introducing this issue in a way that would mean we're constantly on a microstep and hence not having fully accurate steps per layer no matter what we do?

If this is the case how can we correct it?
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Ryan Carlyle's profile photoWhosa whatsis's profile photo
44 comments
 
Half a pound sounds like a lot to me. The ideal spool holder will have nearly zero dynamic friction, only enough to keep the filament from unspooling itself due to the bending force of wrapping it around the spool.

If you just shove a stick through the center of the spool, then yes, I can see how capstan friction would come into play, at least with 1.75.
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RAR! Got my first mission patch for an actual thing that went to space....and back!
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Ben Delarre

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Ben Delarre

Carriages  - 
 
Does anyone know of a carriage and wheel design that works directly on Misumi 2020 extrusion? Seems like you are all the masters of alternative sliding mechanisms so thought I'd ask here :-)
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Ben Delarre's profile photoEric Lien's profile photoSébastien Plante's profile photoShauki B's profile photo
10 comments
 
regular OB wheels I found run smoother than mini wheels. sure best to have top rails from OB to ride on and the rest profiles can be anything. also pob bearings in regular ob wheels is a pleasure and ali makes pom bearins affordable than a year ago
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