First attempt for my go-kart steering repair -
John Cabrer's profile photoAndreas Thorn's profile photoChris Roberts (chrisjrob)'s profile photoTØny Hine's profile photo
Don't do that.  Keep in mind that the original is injection molded, and what you are repairing it with is layered.  Instead of using those fins for support, make a solid cylinder with a hex hole in the middle, and six screw holes through all.

To make it extra strong, surround the hex hole with 36 tiny holes.  This will force the slicer to build a series of concentric rings around the hex hole.  You will than need to replace the original screws with longer ones, but it will be much stronger.
Thank you +Wildseyed Cabrer, I was concerned about the strength of the repair, and I'm sure you're right, it probably would have broken on its first outing. Shame though!
+Chris Roberts a minor detail but that hole taper/chamfer operation looks a bit complicated and seems to produce geometry that can be hard to slice.

You can probably simplify that hole taper and get rid of those taper corner dimples by simply defining a r1 and r2 for a cylinder. Example (with no relation to your exact values);

shim=0.1; // used for mesh- and solid/hole overlapping
     translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(r=15,h=4,$fn=30);
     translate([0,0,0]) cylinder(r2=10,r1=8,h=3+shim,$fn=6);
Love this thread! Particularly the collaboration to develop a replacement that avoids possible problems with the structure of replacement.
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