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Bud Hammerton
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A big win for KLD printer owners using nanoDLP.

No more fooling around with rotation of plates, or building them then having to pre-rotate the STL before adding the plate. Rotation of layers works in nanoDLP Build 1597 and newer.

There are a few quirks and bugs that still need addressing. Since many of us KLD users only use display_rotate=0x10000 to flip the display, nanoDLP presents you with the screen in it's default orientation of portrait. Almost all available software I have tested would rather have the build plate in landscape mode. Briefly this is how to do this.

In nanoDLP go to Resin Profile and either create a new one, clone an existing one, or edit an existing one. Scroll down and there will be a new entry next to Anti-Aliasing in Slicer Options labeled Rotate Layers. Drop down and select Rotate 90° and hit the submit button. That is it. Now use the new (or newly edited) profile and your 'plate' will be rotated 90°

Currently there are a few broken parts, as of build 1597. Do not try to rotate the layer in the Add Plate screen, even though there is a selection for rotating layers it currently does absolutely nothing and leaves your model in its original orientation. Also if you go back to edit the profile for any reason you need to reselect Rotate 90° or it will revert back to non-rotated. That's it.

Quick question about screen orientation?

I am currently using display_rotate=0x10000 in config.txt to simply flip the screen. the problem is that almost all the software I have found and some are much better than others appears to want the screen in landscape mode rather than portrait mode. So when I place objects on the build plate I have to manually place them of the software build plate. They have to be placed 90° offset from the PC screen in order to be placed properly in nanoDLP. Does changing the display_rotation to another setting solve this?

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Installed FlashPrint from Flashforged w/o driver installation. It works for the KLD printers. I only tested Automatic support generation and it is easier to work with than XYZPrinting_Nobel. Not much adjustment but the supports are closer to what FormLabs does with their software. Might be a good alternative to those that don't want to fight with MeshMixer supports. It does not orient or lift the print during support generation so you have to do that yourself before generation.

http://www.flashforge.com/support-center/flashprint-support/

I was playing around with my rPi and found out something interesting. In most of the config.txt file examples I have seen there is some settings that I wondered if they couldn't be tweaked. The first one I played with was display_rotate, since I don't care if the screen is portrait or landscape I have found that using a value of 0x20000 to flip the screen was enough. I know some people are using a value of 3 to rotate the screen 270°. If you rotate and are not actually seeing the rotation, it could be your settings for gpu_mem, if it is 128 you can still display the default screen in the default orientation. A value of 192 is typical but if you are playing with display_rotate and not seeing any results increase this value to 256. Rotating the display takes more memory and this could be the answer to a lot of issues. I played with framebuffer_depth, most of the suggestions I have seen show a value of 24, I have tested a value of 16 and it works, after all we are only displaying one color on these LCDs, no need to have that deep a color table. That was the extent of my playing around.

Monocure Rapid Clear

Okay, so I got the starter pack and tried the clear as a first attempt. Used the same profile I am using for FTB IB Clear and I need to tweak it a bit. at 25 second burn-in layer times it is definitely not as stuck to the build plate as IB. It is still stuck, just pops off very easily with a few taps of the putty knife. I am going to see what happens if I increase it to just 30 seconds. I was using 4.5 second normal layer times and my test print is the Make:Rook and all details are there except for the DNA strand in the middle. I think 5 second layers will be about right. Once I dial in the clear then I will move on to the white and grey. I do like the fact that the clear is actually pretty clear, it's not window pane clear but there is no tinge of yellow (IB is what I would call amber in color). I like clear to be clear so this resin appeals to me and I can see a lot of things I would use it for. I'll add a picture of the print shortly.

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Printed this for my daughter. She is a big Horizon: Zero Dawn player and this medallion is from that game. It is green off the printer, only cleaned off with soapy water in an ultrasonic cleaner. FTD IB Clear 25 micron layers, 20 second base layers, 4 second normal layers.
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Finally got some resin other than FTD IB Clear. Now going to start playing with Monocure Rapid. Just as a point of information on the newer 2017 40W KLD 1260 printer I was able to do 50µ layers with 4 base layers at 25 seconds and normal layers at 5 seconds each. I am using +lenne 0815's dynamic lift formulas slightly modified from his for a bit more actual lift and speed. No issues so far. I did try a couple of 25µ prints and found success with 20 second burn-in and 4.5 second normal layer exposures. It did require slowing down the lift speed just a smidge.

If anyone has any suggestions on where to start with Monocure Rapid I am interested to hear them.

I know that most of us are using nanoDLP but is there anyone here really using Photonic3D on their printers?

I know that most of the people posting here use nanoDLP and I do also, I am planning to experiment a bit with Photonic3D. I have a spare Raspberry Pi 3 and a few 2GB µSD cards. Curious if +lenne 0815's dynamic lift formulas work as well as wanting to experiement with some dynamic cure formula's. There are quite a few things nanoDLP has built in that Photonic3D seems to be lacking. I still think it would be an interesting project with a few new lessons learned from it.

This is a request for help.

If anyone buys a KLD-LCD1260 or LCD2150 with a built in Raspberry Pi could you please use Win32DiskImager or whatever is equivalent on the Mac and make an image of the default Raspian µSD build. I am trying to figure out just how they set up Raspian to work with the 1440 x 2560 screen. Could someone please help all of us out here. I asked Luis for the Raspian image but he sent me Sprinter firmware source instead.

This is a request for help.

If anyone buys a KLD-LCD1260 or LCD2150 with a built in Raspberry Pi could you please use Win32DiskImager or whatever is equivalent on the Mac and make an image of the default Raspian build. I am trying to figure out just how they set up Raspian to work with the 1440 x 2560 screen. Could someone please help all of us out here. I asked Luis for the raspian image but he sent me Sprinter firmware source instead.
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