Nice! I had been thinking of something similar to RichRap's design (the whole extruder gets swapped out), but this is cool, too. However, it lacks fan mounts--both for the cold end (to prevent jams) and for the hot end (part cooling for printing with PLA).
Well I like the design but it just doesn't fit quite right. Lack of nut traps make me nervous, can't fit the fan ducts properly around the original heater block, the fan depth can lose a lot of travel, have to buy alternative fans.
hey when did you get your shapeoko 2 i got one last yr but not finish the build yet as ive been tinkering with my i3 to print parts for a ultimaker as im stripping down the i3 and use what i can for it. All i need for my shapeoko2 are two pulleys and a controller and a spindle. What controller are you using?
What a difference a tap makes. I was having awful problems tapping the centre of the extrusions, the tap was getting gummed up with aluminium so I decided to treat myself to a new tap.
Once I started using the new tap everything was fine. I used a piece of wood with a 5mm hole drilled through it with a pillar drill to start it off nice and parallel. After that I backed the tap out and continued by hand. Using a ratchet tap handle was ideal.
I then made a load more of my cheap tnuts (grind two edges down a bit off normal M5 nuts) and loaded them into the extrusions and put the thing together.
It's terribly out of true and after looking the Eustathios design does have many braces so that's my next job.
Self tapping screws for extrusions have a triangular form about the circumference of the thread that allows them to be self-tapping. They work but tapped hole with corresponding standard machine screw provides greater strength.
Thanks to all who commented on cutting down the aluminium profile. I spent a little time squaring the blade on my chop saw (it's an Evolution RAGE saw and went through the extrusion no problem)
The rather basic clamping endstop to cut all the pieces to the same length worked nicely and I have 10 300mm lengths and 4 400mm lengths for my printer with 1400mm left over for the z bed.
For the t nuts after a bit of experimentation and printing a few designs from thingiverse (none worked or seemed strong enough) I've settled on just full size M5 nuts with two edges ground down on a bench grinder (you could also do this via filing but that was talking too long). A M5 half nut spun in the slot and a washer and half nut didn't fit for me.
I plan on connecting the lengths by tapping the centre with an M5 tap and using M5x16 button cap bolts tightened though a hole I'll drill through the extrusion.
If you use thin nuts, you can drop themm in, or....drill a hole into the edges of the extrusion ie not all the way through, just to make an entry point to drop normal m5 nuts in helps to conquer those moments when you realise youve put in one too few nuts.