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Richard Mitchell
Lives in Cambridge, UK
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Richard Mitchell

Questions/Help  - 
 
The Ultimaker original I have assembled fit work has had another hot end jam and I'm fed up as it takes ages to take apart to clean it.

Should I convert the Ultimaker to use an e3d hot end?

Perhaps using something like https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount
78 votes  -  votes visible to Public
Duh! Of course
58%
Just suck it up and fix it...again
15%
Reprogram it with an axe
27%
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Mike Kowalczyk's profile photoRichard Mitchell's profile photoVaclav Hula's profile photoMatthew Satterlee's profile photo
11 comments
 
I switched to an E3D for the same reason. My print quality improved but I still had frequent clogs until I switched to better filament... I've been clog free for 6 months now! #rehab  
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Richard Mitchell

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Made some 3d printed mounting brackets for my Shapoko electronics that are silly just because I was bored with "normal" looking ones.
Minimalist mounting brackets for Uno electronics on Shapeoko 2
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Richard Mitchell

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Thanks to ten years at +Red Gate Software​ the assembly of my new 3D printer may be somewhat delayed.

Nice gift :)
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Dat Chu's profile photoRichard Mitchell's profile photo
2 comments
 
Nope just another toy. Shiny shiny toy.
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A question. What should the difference in height of the two round bars be?

I'm going through ground down M5 nuts and printed frame braces at a prodigious rate.
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Eric Lien's profile photoRichard Mitchell's profile photo
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Just trying to use the simplest cheapest parts I can, after all I have a 3D printer so I can do rapid prototyping :)
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I've been thinking a lot about the carriage for my printer and came across this modular design. There's already a couple of attachments for an e3d hotend and a flexdrive direct drive.

What do people think?
A modular printhead which allows swapping of Merlin and UBIS hotends.
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Ubaldo Sanchez's profile photoJames Rivera's profile photo
2 comments
 
Nice! I had been thinking of something similar to RichRap's design (the whole extruder gets swapped out), but this is cool, too. However, it lacks fan mounts--both for the cold end (to prevent jams) and for the hot end (part cooling for printing with PLA).
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Any advice on cutting aluminium extrusion? Bought 6 1 metre lengths off ebay now I need to cut them down to size. Was planning on using a chop saw and a block to set the length. Thoughts?
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Richard Mitchell's profile photoJoe Spanier's profile photoMutley3D's profile photoMike Miller's profile photo
11 comments
 
Funny thing that...a three jaw self centering chuck will grab one side in the groove, and the other two flats and make a passible face cut.
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Richard Mitchell

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First attempt at acetone smoothing. Will have to play more I think I didn't let it heat up enough because I was afraid of breaking the jar. Will have to get a cheap nasty pan to play with.
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Eric Lien's profile photoRichard Mitchell's profile photoMike Beardmore's profile photo
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The horizontal lines that remain I think are z wobble. It's printed on my old i2 with 8mm threaded bar.
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Richard Mitchell

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It's amazing the difference painting can make to a print. Printed the Gale crater on Mars a while ago for a friend and look at the end result. I'm so impressed by the result.

Looks far better than the mushy peas it was compared to originally.
1
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Richard Mitchell

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Got it working. Now I have to work out what I want to do with it.
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chris kearsley's profile photo
 
hey when did you get your shapeoko 2 i got one last yr but not finish the build yet as ive been tinkering with my i3 to print parts for a ultimaker as im stripping down the i3 and use what i can for it. All i need for my shapeoko2 are two pulleys and a controller and a spindle. What controller are you using?
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Richard Mitchell

Deviations from Norm  - 
 
I'm thinking of using an idler to bring the belt down to the motor. This will allow me to use one belt length tensioned in the xy block.

Is there anything I'm missing here that means this is a bad™ idea?
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Richard Mitchell's profile photoMike Thornbury's profile photo
19 comments
 
Not even close. The 5mm 2MR  belt can take horsepower :)

Look for 'Gates GT2 Design Guide' - about 150+ pages of tech application details.
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Richard Mitchell

Show and Tell  - 
 
What a difference a tap makes. I was having awful problems tapping the centre of the extrusions, the tap was getting gummed up with aluminium so I decided to treat myself to a new tap.

Once I started using the new tap everything was fine. I used a piece of wood with a 5mm hole drilled through it with a pillar drill to start it off nice and parallel. After that I backed the tap out and continued by hand. Using a ratchet tap handle was ideal.

I then made a load more of my cheap tnuts (grind two edges down a bit off normal M5 nuts) and loaded them into the extrusions and put the thing together.

It's terribly out of true and after looking the Eustathios design does have many braces so that's my next job.
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Brad Hopper's profile photoRichard Mitchell's profile photoMutley3D's profile photo
5 comments
 
Self tapping screws for extrusions have a triangular form about the circumference of the thread that allows them to be self-tapping. They work but tapped hole with corresponding standard machine screw provides greater strength.
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Richard Mitchell

Show and Tell  - 
 
Thanks to all who commented on cutting down the aluminium profile. I spent a little time squaring the blade on my chop saw (it's an Evolution RAGE saw and went through the extrusion no problem)

The rather basic clamping endstop to cut all the pieces to the same length worked nicely and I have 10 300mm lengths and 4 400mm lengths for my printer with 1400mm left over for the z bed.

For the t nuts after a bit of experimentation and printing a few designs from thingiverse (none worked or seemed strong enough) I've settled on just full size M5 nuts with two edges ground down on a bench grinder (you could also do this via filing but that was talking too long). A M5 half nut spun in the slot and a washer and half nut didn't fit for me.

I plan on connecting the lengths by tapping the centre with an M5 tap and using M5x16 button cap bolts tightened though a hole I'll drill through the extrusion.
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Eric Lien's profile photoMike Thornbury's profile photoMutley3D's profile photoJoe Spanier's profile photo
8 comments
 
If you use thin nuts, you can drop themm in, or....drill a hole into the edges of the extrusion ie not all the way through, just to make an entry point to drop normal m5 nuts in helps to conquer those moments when you realise youve put in one too few nuts.
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Still living in Cambridge, still working, loving my little log cabin/workshop at the bottom of my garden.
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