fine-tuned the alignment of my X-Y gantry and properly lubed all the things. I did some movement tests at 400mm/s and didn't get any missed steps. (not extruding, of course). Now trying to get the retraction dialed in well. Not too bad so far.
Still struggling to get good adhesion with Taulman 618. My bed is unheated so I have tried the following: Blue tape, cast nylon, garolite (unmodified), and garolite sanded lightly with 100 grit sand paper. The part I'm printing wants to warp significantly and has peeled off everything but the sanded garolite. However, I couldn't get the part off the sanded garolite without destroying it :( I guess I might try sanding the other side of the sheet with a VERY fine paper (>600 grit) and see if that does anything.
Wood dude. Wood. Just plain old birch plywood...but let it cool down 100% before you peel it off the wood. If you peel it off beforehand, it'll continue warping as it cools. I'm sure a harder ply wood should do better...but Birch ply is working great for me. Benefit is also that it doesn't need to be heated. :)
I did not score it yet. I was planning to etch a pattern into it using the laser but didn't take the time to do that yet. The part was sticking well initially but it was being printed with 50% infill so once it got a few layers built up (~2mm) it peeled off the bed.
As for garolite, I've seen people say they print on it without heat so that's what I'm going to try. I had good success with my first method though: canvas art board from Walmart :) stuck great to the cotton canvas material.
Two approaches from my experience, one is to add extra loops, another is to change width/thickness so it doesn't think the wall is smooshed enough to fill that gap. I think W/T is the better approach in the long run, though you'd hope it was something you could tune by measuring an extruded object and tuning based on empirical data. This is why ppl printed those single wall calibration pieces in the past.
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Faro Technologies, Inc
Lead Software Engineer, 2001 - present
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