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Daniel M.
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Daniel M.

Discussion  - 
 
Well, this is embarrassing-
I kind of broke my hotend when fiddling with the printer.
I've heard recommendations that I should get an e3d, but it's a different size than the hexagon, so dual extrusion wouldn't work.
Does anyone know how to get an e3d to be at the same level as a hexagon, or should I just buy another hexagon?
Also, does anyone know of a source for just the hotend (the heater and thermistor still work so it's not worth buying another)?
I have a Bowden extruder.
1
Daniel M.'s profile photoGreg Nutt's profile photoJohn's profile photoRod Shampine's profile photo
17 comments
 
That is really weird looking!  Were the threads actually soldered/brazed/press fit on???  I'm amazed that the neck didn't just break off!
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Daniel M.

Show & Tell  - 
 
Overboard filament storage:
•Inside a vacuum bag so that no moist air can get in
•I got a rechargeable desiccant tin on Amazon so any remaining moisture is sucked out of the air (also, I throw in any random desiccant packets I come across, along with any desiccant that the filament comes with)

I could probably get rid of the boxes for any filament that's been opened to save some space, but I don't need any space for now.

It's definitely overboard, but it works.

How do you store filament?
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Daniel M.'s profile photoNayan Kanji's profile photoAlan Whinery's profile photoG Coram's profile photo
11 comments
G Coram
 
I put my PLA in a 1-gal zip-lock bag with the pack of dessicant that was in with the filament.
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Daniel M.

Discussion  - 
 
The instructions for the VG (part 4, step 3) say that the NEMA should sit flush with the ground. However, it doesn't fit in between the rails. Is there a way around this?

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Daniel M.'s profile photoKen Stewart's profile photoRichard Kozloski's profile photo
7 comments
 
 If you don't eventually move the z-axis motor outside the print area there is another reason to move it to the top. With the screw hanging down you can cut ½ to 1 inch off an then you can install a larger ~15x17inch build platform and heater bed. You can then get a 15" Y by ~13" X build area with the XZ platform as provided by CB. With a little redesign, moving the z drive outside the frame,  you can get a ~15x15" XY build area. I'm currently working on the plates to do just that, based on Rod Shampine's design.
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Daniel M.

Discussion  - 
 
Cobbleflop is back up and running; make sure to clear your cache if it isn't loading for you.
1
Adair Dingle's profile photo
 
Yay trolling boards are back up, maybe the trolls will hang there now :)
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Daniel M.

Discussion  - 
 
So I'm in a little bit of a dilemma-

I haven't finalized my SEB LM order yet (this is my first printer), and seeing as the print quality on the basics leave much to be desired, I'm not sure if I should get upgrades, etc. for the LM, or get some other low-cost printer, and go with the base options for the LM and hope it works.

I feel like at best, I'd be getting meh print quality, unless I buy non-cb upgrades (new wheels, etc) and at worst, I get a box of non-functional parts, or nothing at all. I'm curious what your input is.
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John Driggers's profile photoJeffrey Black's profile photoDaniel M.'s profile photo
14 comments
 
+Jeffrey Black The price difference is about $20 from the makerfarm with the relay. If the CB one includes a relay, the price difference is excusable; otherwise, it's just sad. Given the price progression with size (30->35->75) it should include it. I'll send a help ticket to be sure...
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Daniel M.

Show & Tell  - 
 
Got dual extrusion working!
8
Ray Kholodovsky's profile photoRobert Robati's profile photo
2 comments
 
Nice
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Daniel M.

Discussion  - 
 
How do you reduce backlash on the y axis? I printed some belt tensioners that reduced the backlash from >1mm to about .5mm, but I can't seem to reduce it any further. Any tips?

For some reason, the x axis doesn't have nearly as much backlash, even though the belt seems to actually be looser on the x axis.
1
Daniel M.'s profile photoJeffrey Black's profile photoJean-Simon Bourgault's profile photoRod Shampine's profile photo
16 comments
 
+Jean-Simon Bourgault Good call on the clothes pin!
+Daniel M. I suggest Kapton tape and/or high temperature RTV.  I changed mine to a threaded thermistor, BTW.
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Daniel M.

Discussion  - 
 
I started to wire up my heated bed, and I am having a problem with the relay. No matter what I do, the hbp is on all the time when the printer is plugged in, even when the RAMPS isn't sending the signal. I tried reversing the wires (they are uncolored and unlabled), but the hbp still stayed on. Has anyone else had this problem?
1
Stephen Pole's profile photoKen Stewart's profile photoDaniel M.'s profile photo
17 comments
 
Both of those would work. In the past few days, I just got some screws from the hardware store with really thin heads and am using a combination of mesh leveling and replacing the spacers with a few springs from a pen.
I might also add a few washers.
Drilling new holes isn't a bad idea either. I might do that as a cleaner solution.
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Daniel M.

Discussion  - 
 
I think that either my RAMPS board is defective or the fakeduino has bad pins- only the y axis works. I ruled out the motors themselves (switched around the motors) and the stepper drivers (switched those around too, and nothing changed).

On a possibly related note, the z-axis (when I switch around the wires) jitters (only even attempts to move about half the time), and adjusting the voltage doesn't help. Even when it attempts to move, it still fails a lot.
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Jeffrey Black's profile photoDaniel M.'s profile photo
24 comments
 
Well, adjusting the voltage does help after all- it helps if you use a multimeter. I didn't actually check the voltage beforehand, so they were set to about 3V, and they had enough power—but the drivers would instantly overheat and shut off. I set z to about 1.1 and all others to about .8-.9V (also, I got DRV8825's which probably helped also).
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Daniel M.

Discussion  - 
 
The gantry sags a significant amount. Normally, this could be compensated for by leveling the bed, but the sag is worse when the gantry is going upwards than when it's going down.
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Greg Nutt's profile photoDaniel M.'s profile photoJason Verhagen's profile photo
23 comments
 
For disassembling the wheels, I don't have the top rails on my LM, so I will pull the whole gantry off and remove all of the wheel assemblies from the z plates. For getting the wheel assemblies apart, you should be able to take the bolt out and shake the wheel to get the spacer in between the bearings to move off center. Then you can use that same bolt to push on the spacer to push the spacer and bearing out the other side of the wheel. If the spacer is stubborn and won't dislodge enough for you to push on it, wrap your thumb and index finger around the wheel and give a couple of quick taps of your thumb against your leg or a tabletop and that should dislodge the spacer enough. Just don't smack the wheels directly on a hard surface to try to dislodge the spacer. 
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Daniel M.

Discussion  - 
 
Did anyone else get wrong size bearings (608 instead of 625)? I got a 10" LM with VG upgrades.

Also, I got two less than needed.

Edit: only 2 were the wrong size, so I have 28 good bearings. Still, that's 4 less than needed.
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Richard Kozloski's profile photoJason Verhagen's profile photoDaniel M.'s profile photo
3 comments
 
Yeah, I see what you mean, reading a bit farther into the instructions. Since they're cheap, I just ordered a tube off eBay.
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