Burning 3D printed PLA out of a sand-and-plaster mold to prepare it for aluminum casting.
2012-09-27 (8 photos)
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- We are hoping to do the pour on Sunday. Not sure if it will turn out, but we made the gear extra long so that if we get the same kinds of flaws as in past attempts, we can cut them off and still have a usable part.Sep 27, 2012
- Does the rate of pour affect the granularity of the finished piece? Or is it all in the cooling off time before the mold is cracked?Sep 27, 2012
- A little of both. Molds with thin areas where the metal has to be forced through before it cools have to be poured fast so that you can get plenty of hydraulic pressure behind it before it cools too much. This pressure also forces the metal into sharp corners and details. If there are a long areas of thin details (lots of surface area relative to the volume metal) then it is good to use more heat and cast a bit hot. That can cause problems of its own, but it can get those areas filled.Sep 27, 2012
- Do you have any pics of the model or the mold itself? Have you tried burning out ABS? I don't have any PLA, but I do have access to a pretty decent kiln here in Kearney.Sep 27, 2012
- It does not look like we took any pictures of the gear, but it's just a reprap filament drive gear with a foam sprue stuck on it, then plunged into plaster. I'll get some more pictures of the mold when we cast it.
I'm sure ABS would work the same way, at 1500degF it's all pretty much the same: ashy.Sep 27, 2012
- Post these to the flickr feed. Or consider putting the eyefi in your camera when you are at the makerySep 29, 2012