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Chuck Ferraris
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Chuck Ferraris

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Scotty, on my '99 Durango (5.2L 138K miles) I was doing the first oil change (since I purchased it 3 weeks ago) on it myself.  Draining the oil from the drain pan was a piece of cake. The filter on the other hand was in EXTREMELY tight.  I ended up having to use a pry bar and hammer to get it off (yes, I punched a hole through the filter and hammered it counterclockwise to loosen it). Putting on the new filter I coated the gasket with some used oil and spun it on until it made contact with the mating surface, then gave it an extra 1/4 turn. After filling with oil and started it up. Checked the filter and it had a constant drip. I shut off the engine off and tightened the filter as tight as I could by hand and it slowed it down to a bare drip. I don't want to over tighten the oil filter.  Any suggestions?
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I checked that with my hand (filter seal), had it not taken me almost an hour to pull the stupid filter, I'd probably have checked the face of the seal better. I didn't get the crowbar anywhere near that area, (I know better than that), but that doesn't mean that someone else didn't in the past. I did purchase the filter tool, but it was too late for me to use it before I mangled the filter, but I will have it for the next one.
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Chuck Ferraris

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I have a 1997 SL2 with 160K on it.. I've had the vehicle for about 25K and the hazard flasher has never worked, the turn signals work though.  Is this a multifunction switch issue? I know that my wiper will not initiate a cycle until I pull the wiper arm toward me the first time and then it's fine (That is a multifunction switch I think), and there's a slight dead spot on my turn signal that will cause them not to work about 1 time in 100.  I wouldn't just change the multifunction switch with those two issues, but if it fixes my hazard flasher, then it would be worth it, right?
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Chuck Ferraris

Ask Car Questions  - 
 
I recently purchased a 1999 Dodge Durango. The ignition switch turns o. k. until you try to start it and then you have to use more force than normal to get it to engage the starter. If you don't use that extra force, the speedometer will go up to about 40 and it triggers a check engine light (which has no codes that my scanner can detect).  Eventually after a few starts, the CEL goes away, but I'm thinking that since the ignition switch is a direct contact switch, it may be going bad..  BTW, the vehicle has 137K miles on it.
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Went to the locksmith to make new keys and asked them about it and they immediately said ignition switch.  Allegedly, our climate is so hot and dry that the switches fail quite often.
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