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Mike Podruchny
Works at Resource Data, Inc.
Attended LeTourneau University
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Mike Podruchny

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I have wondered about how to get into building a cellular connected device and this looks like it will be the easiest way.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sparkdevices/spark-electron-cellular-dev-kit-with-a-simple-data
Spark IO is raising funds for Spark Electron: Cellular dev kit with a simple data plan on Kickstarter! The Electron is an Arduino-like cellular development kit with a SIM card and affordable data plan from the creators of the Spark Core.
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And just like that they already have double the goal and every early bird unit is spoken for.
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Mike Podruchny

Troubleshooting  - 
 
This isn't really causing me issues, but I wondered if anyone else has managed to cause a thermal runaway message.  I caused it twice when changing the temperature settings from the LCD.
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Triggered it again twice today, once when I tried to boost both temps in OctoPrint and the second time I only tried to increase the bed.  It seems that the bed is more likely to cause the false alarm.
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The rigidbot spool rack makes it difficult to swap colors unless it is already on the rack.  I have been making copies of this 18 animal puzzle (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:357444) for friends and using 9 colors for the pieces plus one for the frame.  Now I can swap out every color I currently have and changing spools is much easier since each one is on its own bar that lifts out.  Eventually, I will enclose them and add a dehumidifier.

I used one part as an opportunity to finish a couple spools that were low (one of which was a terrible color that was supposed to be red, but looked more salmon colored).  When the filament got down to a couple inches left to grab, I paused and inserted another.  I thought the gray might just make it through the print, but it didn't quite make it so the part ended up tri-colored.
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I published the STLs and I will upload the code once I have a chance to clean it up.  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:634808
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A little weekend project: installing new controllers for LED lights in the kitchen.  Prior to this, the under cabinet lights would have a delay because the Insteon lamp module was trying to ramp up and the DC adapter doesn't work that way.  Also a strip above the sink will now operate from the wall switch instead of the dimmer that was not near the sink because it was originally intended for the cabinet lights.  Other than the screws not working very well everything else fit perfectly.  Once I have some different screws, I will make the lid.
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It isn't as fancy as +Alex Lee's mods, but I published my LED clips: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:577228.  I have lots of strip laying around so it didn't seem worth getting the Ikea bars.  I have a voltage regulator for power once I get my PSU swapped out.  I might redo the model in OpenSCAD now that I am more familiar with it; that will make it easier to tighten up the grip on the bars.
A simple clip to hold LED strips on the frame of a RigidBot. I have lots of spare strips around so the Ikea lights didn't seem worth it to me.
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those led strips are what i put on my printer i baught 100 ft at the last duke city hamfest
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I finally got a couple things off of my todo list (well, almost).  I got the heated board installed and replaced the pulleys with 16 tooth versions with Mobius belt arrangement.  I can confirm that a PLA belt clip will soften due to the heat from the bed causing the belt to come off and all printing to become very linear.  I have swapped one pulley back (at least it the one with the easy belt clip to get to) and I should be able to start playing around with ABS now.  I also didn't get the bed close enough to the nozzle when I releveled and discovered that my gray filament is getting thinner toward the end of the spool.

The next big tasks are PSU upgrade, cable management (finally) and install my E3D hotend.  Between keeping the printer busy, generally not having free time and not having both hands free due to kids, I just can't get these things done as quickly as I would like.
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I am pretty sure this is the least exciting package I have had to go pick up because it was sent registered. Two meters of power wire for when my new PSU arrives.
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It is far better than anything I would find around here and probably cheaper as well.  I regret nothing.
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A finished vent adapter makes my first successful ABS print.  A little bit of delamination on the outside shell, but everything should still be strong enough.  I am sure enclosing the printer would help.  Perhaps a thicker shell would make a difference too.
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This was also one of the first things I worked on with my E3D installed.
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Discussion  - 
 
This is pretty minor and may be a firmware/software issue, but I figured I would mention it here to see if anyone else has noticed this.  I typically preheat everything manually before printing (usually because I want to get the filament changed before it starts).  When I do that, both the extruder and bed heat up and graph as expected.  If I hit print before the printer is hot, the extruder continues to update fine, but the bed doesn't update until the extruder is done heating.  In this example, I started warming manually but then I decided to capture an image of this so I hit print.

I looked at the terminal to see what the difference is.  When both temperatures are updating, there are constant M105 commands that return both temperatures.  Once I hit print, it sends an M140 to set the bed temp without waiting, then an M109 to set the extruder.  The M109 returns these lines until heating is done: Recv: T:70.8 E:0 W:?

I am not really familiar with gcode yet, but it seems like the solution may need to be in the slicer software to use M104/M140 to set temp and then an M116 to wait.
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Ben M
 
Why not give it a try and let us know? 
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I had quite the failure last night, but at least it was recoverable.  I confirmed what happened with the timelapse:
1. The part cooling fan hanging off of the front somehow snagged on the print and popped off.
2. The fan dragged around until it fell off the front of the build plate.
3. The build plate came forward and hit the fan.  This popped open the casing on the fan and stressed the Y axis belt clip causing it to slightly delaminate and let go of the belt.

For now I replaced the offset belt clip with the original one mounted at an angle so I could get up and running again.  While I worked on removing the build plate, I turned on the nozzle so I could free up the blob of plastic and it fell off all on its own before I got to it.
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Actually, after snapping the fan together again and plugging it in, it still works fine.  Things could have easily turned out worse.
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It looks like I will actually get my replacement LCD screen (and heated bed finally) before the community version from Marvin.  I just got the invoice from Marvin and a tracking number from IAP.  They said it shipped out yesterday, but it turns out that means last week and it is out for delivery today.  The heated bed is just in time for my filament order from the group buy which is in town today as well.
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Mike Podruchny

Troubleshooting  - 
 
Not sure yet what happened here. I thought I had my shifting issues worked out but they were mostly on the y axis before. I may have to try it again and watch it closer.
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This is the oil I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGHY
There are a few different oils that are good for this application.  You can find discussions in the community here.
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Have him in circles
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Nathan Cartwright's profile photo
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  • Resource Data, Inc.
    present
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  • LeTourneau University
    Computer Science and Engineering
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