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Frank Walsh
1,528 followers -
Husband, Dad, Geek, Coach, Engineer
Husband, Dad, Geek, Coach, Engineer

1,528 followers
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More characters from this weekend's craft beer event.

Topcon RE Super, 58mm f1.9
Ultrafine 400 shot at 800 and processed in Diafine
Scanned and edited in Darktable
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Also from this weekend (beer event at a local nano-brewery)

I shot and processed another roll of Kodak Color 400 with my Minolta Hi-matic 9. I really love that rangefinder.
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Finally had an opportunity to try out my repaired Topcor 58mm on my Topcon RE Super and the results are fantastic!

Shot on Ultrafine 400 (at 800) and processed in Diafine
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Finally had an opportunity to try out my repaired Topcor 58mm on my Topcon RE Super and the results are fantastic!

Shot on Ultrafine 400 (at 800) and processed in Diafine
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Success! This is what the results look like when you use the correct chemistry :-)

After my disaster, I shot a test strip of 6 frames and when through my developing process VERY CAREFULLY. The results are excellent and I am quite happy.

FYI I have found that I can use a Nesco slow cooker to keep my water bath at a perfectly consistent temperature. It is like this one. They are very cheap to find used:

https://www.amazon.com/Nesco-481825PR-Professional-Stainless-Porcelain/dp/B003I4F7D0/ref=pd_bxgy_79_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003I4F7D0&pd_rd_r=0F2M1TD6P31CV8G97ART&pd_rd_w=SOCbL&pd_rd_wg=46OwA&psc=1&refRID=0F2M1TD6P31CV8G97ART

I spent some time to determine where to set the thermostat (it is only marked as low as 200F) and made a mark at this spot. It is large enough for all the chemistry and the tank, so the temperature stays consistent all the way through the process.

Color processing is really quite simple when you use the right chemicals and keep the temperature consistent.

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Processing of my second roll of color film went very poorly compared to the first. I wish I knew what happened.

Film and chemistry were the same. If anything, my temperature was more consistent. Yet my negatives came out VERY dense and unusable. Even the sprocket holes were so dense the film info was hard to read. Color is non-existent.

I wish I knew what went wrong and if I could trust this chemistry. In my mind the only thing I can think of is that possibly the temp was too low. My water bath was VERY consistent at 102 F, but the truth is I didn't check the actual chemistry temp. I assumed that since the bottles were in the bath for nearly an hour, the temperature would be consistent with the bath.

Any C41 experts out there who can help?
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Back in the summer, I dropped my Topcon RE Super onto a concrete sidewalk, doing severe damage to the lens and a few minor dents into the body. After searching for a while I got a lens for a good price on eBay that appeared to be in very good condition, only to find that when I got it the aperture was not working properly. Turns out there was a broken pin on the iris assembly. So I had to destroy my already damaged lens so I could get it apart and swap the optical assembly from the old lens into the new one. Viola, now I have a perfectly functioning cosmetically clean lens. I fixed it!
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Just picked up this complete kit for my nephew for $40

Nice Yashica FX-3 Super 2000
50mm 1.9 DSB
50mm 2.0 ML
28mm 2.8 DSB
135mm 2.8 DSB
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Dallas, TX airport

Shot on Kodak Gold color film and converted to Black & White in Darktable.
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Another shot from my first self processed roll of color film.

Olympus OM-1 28mm @f11
Kodak Gold 400
Cinestill C41 liquid kit

Finally got the negatives flat enough to scan (quickly) and get satisfactory results
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