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come · con · ella
the chronicle of m and o's appetite.
the chronicle of m and o's appetite.

come · con · ella's posts

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{new on the blog} an essay on bread, butter, books for papercuts magazine. it explores a tapestry of first tastes and journeys, and talks about how real and imagined foods coincide in experience.

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{notes on the colour white + a recipe for conchiglie with labne, spinach and almonds}

this recipe is for a. it is an accidental recipe. i had intended to make o’s favourite spinach and ricotta pasta only to find that there was no ricotta. labne was the substitute. it worked so well that o asks for it often. the pairing of yoghurt with pasta is not unusual. the turks make tiny dumplings called manti cloaked in a yoghurt sauce. the afghan’s use kashk (sour yoghurt) to garnish mantu. the wrapper for mantu is much like pasta. i liken them to ravioli. iranians drizzle kashk into bowls of hearty ‘aash’. the soup is thick and fortified with greens, beans and stubby sticks of noodles like spaghetti.

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{gajaar halva} a favourite pakistani dessert made with red carrots that have been cooked in milk and sugar until pudding-esque.

when it comes to gaajar halva, i draw a firm line. simply put, i think mama’s is best. i like my gaajar halva to be vermillion hued with a balanced sweetness. mama achieves this by frying the carrots with the sugar until they caramelise and darken to vermillion. this process is called ‘bhuno’ and is an essential technique in the repertoire of a south asian cook. most halva making is time consuming and it makes sense to make a large batch, neatly packaging and freezing the halva to keep through the winter. 

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Every time I ask O what he wants for brunch, he says 'Harissa Eggs'. I have been making these for a while now. They are very simply a combination of chickpeas with a soft set omelette. I dot the surface with Greek yoghurt and Harissa. O loves having these with pita or hot naan.


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For those of you who like to 'drink' rather than eat your fruit, head over to Wholegood's blog for my recipe for Peach and Orange Blossoms Smoothies.

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{new on the blog; notes on the marion burros' original plum torte with a recipe for my version with peaches and raspberries}
the original plum torte was first published in the new york times in 1982 and was published every year until 1989. the editorial decision to discontinue its annual appearance was met with much resistance and so it was reinstated. i discovered it on lottie and doof last year where tim’s simple and assertive opening line ‘make this cake’ is what dispatched me to my kitchen. it was a still warm afternoon and the first of the season’s plums were sitting in the fruit bowl. in pakistan, mama had just made a plum crumble cake inspired by her polish heritage. o wanted tea and i figured a slice of warm cake thick with fruit would be perfection.
this cake has been a firm favourite since then. i have adapted the recipe very slightly by playing around with the spices and fruits. 
#nytcooking   #recipes   #comeconella  

One of our favourite weeknight suppers has found its way into the Reader's Recipe column of The Telegraph. It is a recipe for Orzo with Courgette and Ricotta.

Leah Hyslop writes - “But my favourite was Mehrunnisa Yusuf’s recipe, below, which involves cooking the vegetable down into a caramelised, jammy mush. It doesn’t sound particularly attractive, but mix it with ricotta, lemon and chilli, and you’ll have a delicious pasta sauce that really showcases courgettes’ delicate flavour. Even more importantly, the recipe uses up half a kilo of the vigorous veg in one fell swoop. Courgette glut, be gone.”

Readers' recipes: cracking courgette recipes

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{new on the blog} remembering choti eid along with a recipe for mama's tangy tamarind laced channa chaat. 

eid in london lacks the charm and magic that it did in pakistan. i think this is partly because adulthood diminishes the excitement. but mostly because close family is missing; a casualty of distance and urban nomadism. i miss the custom of eid lunch with my parents and sibling followed by hours of tv series box sets and re-runs of the godfather trilogy. i miss bowl after bowl of kheer and dhood seviyan and mama’s spiced kofte and channa chaat. the latter was a refreshing mixture of chickpeas, fresh herbs, tomatoes and chilli united by a tangy tamarind chutney. mama served it in a glazed paraat (shallow earthenware dish). the tamarind chutney was a tamer, sweeter version of the mouth puckering packets of ‘rita imli’ that i loved. 

#pakistan  #eid #chaat #recipe  

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The husband, he loves rice. So today it is nutty red rice. Folded into it is a large bunch of scallions, prawns and edamame. A few tablespoons of fermented chilli bean sauce give it heft and heat. Plus a scatter of almonds. 
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