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Jack Strake
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Jack Strake

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The film unfortunately cuts away before/without demonstrating how to optimally insert the poles relative to each other;

-does one insert the first pole completely into it's sleeve before inserting the 2nd pole?
-if so, should the first pole also be inserted (and tightened) into it's pole cup before inserting the 2nd pole?

I find the insertion of poles rather unwieldy as it's difficult to insert the 2nd pole when the first pole is fully inserted into its sleeve (but not yet 'cupped' & tensioned).

My hitherto workaround for the tent's ornery pole insertion (although I'm not sure if it's the certified Hilleberg method) is to:

-ensure the tent's dome cover is released before pole insertion.
-once the first pole is inserted fully into the closed end of its sleeve, only pull the first pole's pole sleeve over approx. half of the pole before inserting the 2nd pole.

Would be helpful if Hilleberg demonstrated/addressed their perceived optimal pole insertion technique for the Unna.

Somewhat related--when I pack up the tent I ensure that the tent's short side with the closed sleeve ends are at the opening end of the tent's stuff sack. This makes for safer/easier pitching when caught out in windy conditions. Also, I release the dome cover before stuffing away the tent, simplifying the next pitching.

As a side note: No matter how I try, I can't pull off measuring the length of the inner tent to come anywhere near the tent's official specification of 230 cm (I come up with approx. 220 cm).

I contacted Hilleberg about this discrepancy and they informed me that the inner tent's length spec is derived from measuring the length from one corner! of the inner to its opposite corner.

And yes, if I detach the inner tent from the outer tent (thus releasing tension on the inner) and measure the inner tent's length from corner to corner...well then I get a tad closer to the spec'd 230 cm. So sure - the tent's enormous, especially per volume, for a 1-person tent. Just don't go being a tall person expecting a 230-solution to your 6'3" conundrum - the Unna provides more of a 220-solution, with sloping end walls to boot, to whatever length of body you stuff into it for a good night's rest.

While I'm at it - would be nice if the inner tent's only pocket was not placed at the foot end of the tent (which is the case when you lie in the tent with zipper access positioned at your head end.)

To wrap matters up: a great tent, imo. Stuffs/compresses small (when not rolling up the tent around its poles) and the slight weight penalty is worth it given the absolute security it provides when the weather goes full-on nasty. I easily pull off meeting the specs of so-called 'light backpacking' ( < 10 kg or 22 lbs) when I bring the Unna on solo outings.




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Give it a rest.
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Jack Strake

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These guys (ProLiteGear & Arc'teryx) do a good job of describing 'the forest' of DWR:

http://youtu.be/xVBedxM_pi4 (ProLoteGear)

http://youtu.be/I4N6ZuKTZ_c (Arc'teryx)

I enjoy your vids!

Cheers
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Jack Strake

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Also, the optimal approach to maintaining your jacket's breathability is to:

-frequently wash your jacket with a mild soap (not a detergent!). This removes accumulated body oils and other grime that 'clog' the waterproofing material's micro-pores which allow your jacket to breathe.

-after washing - and when the jacket is still! wet - hang it on a hanger and apply your DWR. The wet face fabric facilitates an even application of the DWR over the jacket's surface. A few minutes after this is done and excess DWR had run off your still hanging jacket, tumble dry your jacket dry on a low heat setting. The moderate heat from the tumble drying activates/reactivates the water-beading properties of the DWR (which in turn facilitate the jacket's ability to breathe when it's raining).

Quite often, it's simply enough to just wash the jacket and then tumble dry the jacket to get water on the face fabric to bead up again. Again, this is because heat in itself reactivates any existing DWR that has only temporarily lost its ability to bead water (it's a chemistry thing). If this trick doesn't work then it's indeed time to re-DWR your jacket.

Note: many people erroneously believe that frequent washing will quickly degrade the oft expensive jacket's magic properties. The opposite is true - wash frequently and the magic of a breathable yet waterproof jacket will last so much longer!
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Jack Strake

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Can't wait for GG's critical analysis of Iran's nightmarish regime. (Won't hold my breath waiting to see it on PressTV)
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Jack Strake

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Same feeling. Have one of their SEAL spooky ops watches and guess what? Riding a motorcycle on a gravel road and the watch fell off. The metal wristband failed from the vi rations of the ride (a pin jarred loose) LMAO. Contacted Luminox customer services--well I tried, but I never penetrated their firewall deep enough to reach support. Well at least Luminox is great on OPSEC. SOF gear my ass.
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Disappointing for such a watch, the name suggest a bit more ! Sorry for You
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Jack Strake

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Intel-rich series - nice!
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Jack Strake

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"Water proof..."for a while"", ye wrote. With Gore-Tex, it's water proof w/ or w/o DWR. I believe that this is the 'forest' of the matter.

DWR and concomitant breathability coefficients in the lab and the field b da trees.

DWR only fills the role of 'water proofer' w/ non-Gore-Tex type textiles (e.g. Pertex, Luminara, Gossamera,...). All this imho, of course.
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Jack Strake

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Your explanation that DWR is applied to Gore-Tex to to help the jacket "shed water even faster" and "make sure they stay waterproof..." is incorrect.

With Gore-Tex, the material is waterproof - end of story. The DWR is applied for one reason, namely to prevent the face fabric from wetting out (the material remains waterproof even when the surface fabric has wetted out).

When the surface fabric has wetted out, you will remain protected from precipitation but your jacket's ability to breathe will be significantly reduced. Such decreased breathability will reduce the materials ability to allow perspiration to pass from beneath the jacket to its outside, This in turn will entail that you will get wet/soaked from your own perspiration even though no water leaks through the jacket from the outside.

In summary, the purpose of the DWR is to allow your jacket to breathe. That's it and everything.
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I think you're missing the forest for the trees. DWR keeps fabric from wetting out by repelling water at the surface level of the material. This allows the water to bead up and shed off the material faster than it would normally, thereby preventing absorption. As a function of not wetting out, Gore-tex does breathe "better" but lets be honest, in real life conditions, humidity differences don't allow much breathing to take place. DWR is used on many other fabrics than just Gore-tex too. In these applications it is often primarily used to provide temporary waterproofness/resistance.
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Jack Strake

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Jack Strake

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