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Tony Gomes
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Here's a new one: Anyone print engine gaskets yet? Both intake (nice and cool) and hot side too? What about fuel connections? What kind of filament should be used?

I do car stuff and small engine stuff for myself, and found myself dealing with a few of my small engines needing carburator rebuilds (thanks you peice of shit ethanol enfused crap fuel).

So here I am thinking : Why in the hell are you buying rebuild kits for your carbs just to steal the gaskets when you got a perfectly good printer upstairs???
Thing is, what kind of filament is ok to use? Silicone type filament is fine for an intake or a seal on that side, but where it meets the head, not so much. Fuel bowls, they usually have a rubber O-ring sealing them, that requires a different filament. And now for the last part: exhaust connection or as I said previously, where the intake makes contact with the head? That requires high temp. And all of these require rigidity and durability.

Any thoughts?

And yes I know I can use paper gasket material, that's not the point.

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How to skip the USB cable for communication from the raspberry pi to your controller.

So I was looking for a less bulk way to connect the Pi to the printer board for communication and figured there had to be something out there and this is what I found. I think he even powers it via the same cable???

Someone that's smarter than me want to chime in here and make sure I understand this correctly. And maybe even dumb this down so it can be added to the wiki?
Connected a RaspberryPi to my new Prusa i3 to run the octoprint web interface. The RAMPS and Pi are powered from 5vsb on the power supply and use the PS_ON signal to turn on the 12V power to print.
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Anyone suggest another proximity sensor?

So I'm working on auto-bed leveling with +Peter Stoneham 's dual extruder setup.

Ran into the issue with the bed in that I have a sheet of PEI and it slightly takes up too much space in that my 4mm sensor (recommended one) is actually at the same level as my nozzles before it detects the bed. This makes it drag on some corners of the print and so far I've poped a print off the bed with it, and a few others it got stuck and skipped the print on me.  I keep looking for an inductive NPN NO sensor with 8mm of detection, but seems all of them are a 18mm body. The capacitive sensors seem to be "sensitive" to temperature and humidity so I'm not sure they're a good idea.... I found a few that are 5mm but really? a 1mm gain is negligible.... and most seem to be PNP which I'm not sure how to wire....

Anyone got any suggestions? or links???  Something that drops right into the "PSD2 v1" (Peter S. Double Extruder version 1) and is compatible with the extuder-board?

MKS v1.3 (and 1.4) firmware update.

Changes as follows from ramps 1.3 assignments

in pins_RAMPS_13.h changed the following:
#if MB(RAMPS_13_EFF) to  #if MB(RAMPS_13_EEB)

#define FAN_PIN           9
#define HEATER_1_PIN     7

For those that want an easy and all set version here you go:

All of your edits should be done in configuration.h only, the rest is all set. I added notes to the sections you need to change with //**.
Change extruder numbers and go as needed.

Tested this on my MKS board to verify everything assigned agreed with whats written on the board.

+Thomas O'Connell 

Edit: February 27 2016: Updated firmware to correct a few things i left in by accident, and made it a self extracting RAR for everyone.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByQRx0yBtW0FSlh5UzkySHljVE0

SainSmart 2-in-1 firmware update.

Changes as follows from ramps 1.3 assignments

in pins_RAMPS_13.h changed the following:
#if MB(RAMPS_13_EFF) to  #if MB(RAMPS_13_EEB)

#define FAN_PIN           7
#define HEATER_0_PIN      9
#define HEATER_1_PIN      10
#define HEATER_BED_PIN    8

For those that want an easy and all set version here you go:

All of your edits should be done in configuration.h only, the rest is all set. I added notes to the sections you need to change with //**.
Change extruder numbers and go as needed.

Tested this on my sainsmart to verify everything assigned agreed with whats written on the board.

+Thomas O'Connell  any chance you can get this one added also to the main-branch?


Edit: February 27 2016 : Updated it to make it a self extracting RAR, and corrected a few mistakes/comments left in.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByQRx0yBtW0FUldhZm5EZzYzSVE

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Shifty show and tell.
MKS v1.4 board, a4988 drivers, 20tooth gears, Marlin v1.1.0 RC3, +Peter Stoneham​'s dual extruder v1 and idler pulleys, PLA @ 195, Cura 15.04, parts fan.

Looks like I have to tweak my tops but other than that, not bad for something I haven't played with in a while. (Did the parts fan cooler right before).
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TLDR: Need Marlin Help

So I'm working on getting the MKS/Sainsmart 2-in-1 board all set. Right now I'm concentrating on the MKS due to the ease of plug and play on the steppers.
     I downloaded the latest Marlin (v1.1.0 RC3) and changed everything I needed to to get it working which was quite simple. So far it's perfect, I have everything working 100%(single extruder only tested so far), even done a few prints.
 My only issue is that both these boards have the ability to use a parts fan AND both extruders, but none of them in Marlin can support that due to it using the profile of the ramps 1.4/1.3.  If you've followed my board adventures, you know that with the RAMPs board, you can't have a fan if you want 2 extruders and a bed working.  But these boards have that capability.

I've found the pin out diagram for the both the ramps and the mks but not for the sainsmart (their product page points back to our wiki, we should be proud )

In RAMPs, it's as follows: D8,D9,D10 : Bed, Part Fan, Extruder0
In MKS it's as follows: D8,D9,D10,D7: Bed, Part Fan, E0, E1

So the way I have it flashed (dual extruder pinout but only one working) (RAMPS_13_EEB)

I've already Changed the line to change Extruder 2 (2nd) to pin 7, but can't seem to get it to still recognize the fan due to having the board recognized as EEB (Extruder, Extruder, Bed) (so it auto disabled the fan and assigns the second extruder the pins for the fan, but in this case the heater is pin 7 leaving pin 9 to still be a fan.

Again This is Marlin 1.1.0 RC3

Update:

in Marlin 1.1.0 RC3 (but most can be replicated in all marlins)

configuration.h board assignment :
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB

in pins_RAMPS_13.h changed the following:
 line 86 : #if MB(RAMPS_13_EFF) * to*  #if MB(RAMPS_13_EEB)

This forces it to use the my board assignment from configuration.h (I know I know this is cheap and cheating but it's all i could come up with)

I left it's pin assignment alone below the previous : 
#define FAN_PIN           9

also in pins_RAMPS_13.h Changed the following:
#define HEATER_1_PIN      9  to  #define HEATER_1_PIN      7

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For those of you looking to be able to print off the cloud, or control off the cloud, or just want to try out octoprint, this is the best deal on a B+ I've seen. All you'll need is your network method (WiFi or hardwired)$20

http://www.neweggflash.com/Product/13-300-001?utm_source=NFEmail113015&utm_medium=index&utm_campaign=SaleBanner_B3C_13-300-001&cm_mmc=EMC-NFEmail113015-_-SaleBanner_B3C_13-300-001-_-NA-_-13-300-001

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Think this motor will solve all my axis shift problems, just need to make a small adapter for it, and change my steps in the firmware... LOL. Does anyone know if meanwell make a 360v PSU???? LOL

This is one of the drive motors off of one of the 5-axis cnc's at work, it's down for a little maintenance but I couldn't help myself.... There's my left arm for kinda size reference and I'm a big dude.

If the conversion is correct this motor does 3.3hp all alone, with the gear reduction on it the torque multiplication is massive. At full speed travel, this thing hits 15inches a second and that's controller limited to that speed and that's a progressive 15inches/sec, meaning it starts soft and slows down soft so that there's no hard stops/starts that destroy gears/bearing/motor. This drives ONE axis only.... And it's not the biggest one...

DC voltage, hydraulic oil cooled, that then goes through an a.c. chiller (basically an air conditioner for a radiator just to try keep it a hair above room temp)
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