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Imre Csoka
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Imre Csoka commented on a post on Blogger.
howdy, did you make any dosh off this or is it starting to slow down.... i want to get into the mining story but it seems the train is very fast now.

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Imre Csoka commented on a post on Blogger.
I dont have system tool after i click on applications
im stuck. ;-(

Introduction and greetings - Crank / Start issue
====================================
Hello, my car is an Opel Corsa B 1999 1.6 IE -
My car starts fine in the morning and i park in an open garage at home -First time start.
My trip to work varies from open road to a little traffic.

Either way my fan manages to come on 0 times when heading home in no traffic.
It is a lot cooler drive even though i hit the freeway, because i have a nice open road to the flat i stay in.
When i go to work my drive is more traffic and when approaching the first robot my fan comes on and then of course when i enter the parking area in my work building the fan comes on. I would say the fan comes on about 2-3 times when heading to work.

I mentioned those 2 scenarios above because i am wondering about parking the car in a warmer and cooler state.

When i leave work i need to crank for a long long time (2-3 times and maybe 8 seconds) before the car actually catches and starts - i need to rev slightly as it seems to want to rev at about 300-500 RPM and not even the normal 900-1000 RPM.
I never used to experience this before (starting issue)
I would say that my parking at work is also open but in a basement structure.
It seems to be more warm and perhaps humid at times.
I dont live at the coast so i doubt humidity is a factor here.

I also can say that i have had my ICV cleaned by my mechanic 2 times in the last 3 years.
Can anybody please help me and explain what is going on with the starting issue.
I can also confirm that my car used to jerk alot on the freeway when lightly accelerating or just cruising.
Is the ICV related to starts also as well as driving?
What is the story with humidity and stuff , is it related?
I get my car engine cleaned pretty often , maybe 4 times a year.
So i try to look after it.

More information to add here:
On the airflow pipe , there is that airflow sensor right? does that make a difference?
I ask this because that air pipe (mine had a hole in it) i had to buy from gold wagen and for some reason the plug on my car doesnt fit to clip on the sensor...
it fits but it doesnt seat enough to be able to clip on.
My mechanic just took out that sensor and put in my old one...
I am just wondering if that is a key part to this whole puzzle or if it is the offending part more of what i describe below...

My mechanic told me that my injectors are dripping or leaking so when i start the car it battles to start .
I still don't understand that well though because when i start the car at home summer or winter it starts first time...sometimes it might need a bit of a accelerator to help it catch....so that it can idle at the normal 900 rpm.

when i drive and then stop for say 1 hour (example at a shop) then try start it turns long maybe 5-7 seconds and then i MIGHT have to press accelerator to help it idle.
when i drive and then stop for say 3 hours then try start it turns long maybe 3-5 seconds and then i MIGHT have to press accelerator to help it idle.
when i drive and then stop for say 8 hours (example at work) then try start it turns long maybe 5-7 seconds and then i MIGHT have to press accelerator to help it idle.(might shudder - low shakey idle)
when i drive and then stop for say 12 hours (example at home) then try start it turns 1-2 seconds and starts- I might have to press accelerator to help it idle. (might shudder - low shakey idle)

Basically it idles fine at more or less 900 rpm - i have changed my ICV also (Gold Wagen part)

I think the time it was happening or started happening my ignition pack failed and i was only firing on 2 cylinders.
my car was jerking on the freeway and one time i just stood still i unplugged my plugs then re-inserted them and the car surprisingly drove still but after 10 km or so the car started missing again....so hence the pack was broken or breaking properly
Anyhow i have a new ignition coil pack, and my spark leads are at least only 2 years old now (bogi is the brand or name)
Regularly service the car too.

Also , i am skeptical but how do i know if my plugs are connected in the proper order.... should i take a picture of mine?

Any ideas what we can still check ....
I am not an expert or intermediate user.
I wish to learn more and understand, maybe i can help this forum and take a picture of what my engine looks like. I have noticed it is very hard to see the exact same engine like mine. I am sad 

+Scotty Kilmer Its with great sadness i have decided to leave this community.


Hi, I have a bit of a tricky one to post and explain because of past and present tense but here it goes:
I own a OPEL CORSA B 1999 year model 1.6 IE
My car starts fine in the morning and i park in an open garage at home -First time start.
My trip to work varies from open road to a little traffic.
Either way my fan manages to come on 0 times when heading home in no traffic.
It is a lot cooler drive even though i hit the freeway, because i have a nice open road to the flat i stay in.
When i go to work my drive is more traffic and when approaching the first robot my fan comes on and then of course when i enter the parking area in my work building the fan comes on. I would say the fan comes on about 2-3 times when heading to work.
I mentioned those 2 scenarios above because i am wondering about parking the car in a warmer and cooler state.
When i leave work i need to crank for a long long time (2-3 times and maybe 8 seconds) before the car actually catches and starts - i need to rev slightly as it seems to want to rev at about 300-500 RPM and not even the normal 900-1000 RPM.
I never used to experience this before (starting issue)
I would say that my parking at work is also open but in a basement structure.
It seems to be more warm and perhaps humid at times.
I dont live at the coast so i doubt humidity is a factor here.
I also can say that i have had my ICV cleaned by my mechanic 2 times in the last 3 years.
Can anybody please help me and explain what is going on with the starting issue.
I can also confirm that my car used to jerk alot on the freeway when lightly accelerating or just cruising.
Is the ICV related to starts also as well as driving?
What is the story with humidity and stuff , is it related?
I get my car engine cleaned pretty often , maybe 4 times a year.
So i try to look after it.
More information to add here:
On the airflow pipe , there is that airflow sensor right? does that make a difference?
I ask this because that air pipe (mine had a hole in it) i had to buy from gold wagen and for some reason the plug on my car doesnt fit to clip on the sensor...
it fits but it doesnt seat enough to be able to clip on.
My mechanic just took out that sensor and put in my old one...
I am just wondering if that is a key part to this whole puzzle or if it is the offending part more of what i describe below...
My mechanic told me that my injectors are dripping or leaking so when i start the car it battles to start .
I still don't understand that well though because when i start the car at home summer or winter it starts first time...sometimes it might need a bit of a accelerator to help it catch....so that it can idle at the normal 900 rpm.
when i drive and then stop for say 1 hour (example at a shop) then try start it turns long maybe 5-7 seconds and then i MIGHT have to press accelerator to help it idle.
when i drive and then stop for say 3 hours then try start it turns long maybe 3-5 seconds and then i MIGHT have to press accelerator to help it idle.
when i drive and then stop for say 8 hours (example at work) then try start it turns long maybe 5-7 seconds and then i MIGHT have to press accelerator to help it idle.(might shudder - low shakey idle)
when i drive and then stop for say 12 hours (example at home) then try start it turns 1-2 seconds and starts- I might have to press accelerator to help it idle. (might shudder - low shakey idle)
Basically it idles fine at more or less 900 rpm - i have changed my ICV also (gold wagen part)
I think the time it was happening or started happening my ignition pack failed and i was only firing on 2 cylinders.
my car was jurking on the freeway and one time i just stood still i unplugged my plugs then re-inserted them and the car surprisingly drove still but after 10 km or so the car started missing again....so hence the pack was broken or breaking properly
Anyhow i have a new ignition coil pack, and my spark leads are at least only 2 years old now (bogi is the brand or name)
Regularly service the car too.
Also , i am skeptical but how do i know if my plugs are connected in the proper order.... should i take a picture of mine?
Any ideas what we can still check ....
I mean i have a few other issues i need to attend to which is why i want to post here anbd ask more questions... Brake Bleeding and Coolant flush to come.
Anyways thanks for reading

Hello, i am keen to try and bleed my braking system. I would like to know how big the size of the bleeder valve would be so that i can go an buy the plastic tube that can fit snug on it.
Is it s general thing to know , or must i check myself by looking under the car?

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