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Alex Wiebe
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Question about heated bed wattage - specifically +Printrbot 8"x8" bed. The product page on their site seems non-intuitive - the 6x6 is listed at 240W, while the 8x8 is only 130W. That seems both backwards.

https://printrbot.com/shop/printrbot-heat-plate/

Next question: Can the power transistor on the Rev D board handle the 10-20(+?) Amps needed to run the 8x8 board?

I have the 8x8 bed and I'm working out how to mount it on my (modified) Simple Maker edition printer.

(+Brook Drumm?)

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Anyone heard of, tried, have comments on PolySmooth filament? They claim it can be smoothed with just about any kind of alcohol and can be printed on just about any printer that prints with PLA.

It's pricey $54.95CDN / 0.75kg more than double the cost / kg that I'm currently paying for PLA. (I'm paying $29.75 / 1.0kg at my local electronics store in Winnipeg).

https://filaments.ca/products/polysmooth-filament-natural-1-75mm

How to change/adjust filament with OctoPrint? I happened to be near by and notice a jam starting (clicking from the extruder). I paused, moved the head off to the side, dealt with the jam and extruded an extra 25mm of filament. Then I moved the head back and hit resume - OctoPrint (or the printrbot rev F firmware??) RETRACTED 25mm of filament!

Now I have a screwed up print because the next layer air-printed. sigh.

So, what do I do next time to prevent the Retract after a manual extrude while paused?

Is there a plug in or can I suggest an enhancement to provide an 'estimated length of filament remaining' display?

I had a print running last night where I was concerned I'd run out of plastic on - turns out it ended with 12" to spare... gulp!

While knowing the estimated time to completion is handy, it's also a wild guess that is influenced by velocity, acceleration and jerk settings that OctoPrint is not aware of.

An accurate length of filament required is pretty easy to calculate (in fact, total length required is already on the display). I hope it is not too difficult to monitor the gcode and calculate the remaining length required.

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What's the repeat-ability of those optical IR sensors that are prolific throughout printers/copiers? Good enough to use instead of the metalic proximity sensors that are currently popular?

(http://thedenneys.org/pub/robot/encoders/sensor-types.gif)

I have 2 types - ones in which a blade brakes the beam (this would require physical contact with the bed and some kind of repeatable device to position and retract it) and another kind where both emitter and detector face the same way and detect a reflection (suspect these would be affected by ambient light, etc).

I print on acrylic / glass. Nothing for the metal sensors to detect. So I'm still in the dark ages with a momentary toggle switch on the side triggered by an adjustable bolt.

Thoughts, ideas?

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TIL: Heat breaks are important.

Didn't realize that little bit of exposed brass in an Ubis 13 between the ceramic heater and the biege piece above it needed airflow.

I'm working on increasing the cooling and the current setup has too much air flowing right at the heater. So, I took the cloth/silicon 'sock' from the older +Printrbot hot end and slipped it over the one on the Ubis 13 - doubling up the blanket if you will.

Then I started having jamming issues - like an hour+ into a print. Took a few wrong turns to figure out that the second sock was too big and heat creep was causing problems.

Trimmed the second sock to fit better, leaving that little bit of brass exposed and we're back in business!
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06/05/2017
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Looking for Cura 15.04.4 slicer setting help to print thin wall shape. Specifically I'm trying to print a model that has a ~0.4mm walled honeycomb structure. KISSlicer seems to be doing it, but I can't get Cura to. If I set the wall to smaller than 0.3mm it balks, larger it prints nothing. Seems to be some kind of aliasing issue.

CURA question. Vase settings. I'm printing a continuous vase for the first time and it is "glitching" roughly at the same location around the perimeter. Looking at the g-code, I see a G0 on every new layer that is ever so slightly a different position than the continous path would suggest. What setting(s) do I need to change to fix this?

G1 X95.301 Y104.238 Z6.966 E1707.35851
G1 X95.730 Y103.617 Z6.967 E1707.38737
G1 X97.450 Y101.382 Z6.970 E1707.49525
;LAYER:29
G0 F9000 X97.400 Y101.279
;TYPE:WALL-OUTER
G1 F2700 X97.829 Y100.772 E1707.52065
G1 X99.830 Y98.642 Z6.973 E1707.63243
G1 X100.299 Y98.186 Z6.974 E1707.65745

Dumb Cura profile question - how do I not have Cura set a bed temp? I don't have a heated bed, and I've turned it off in the Windows Cura profile that I've saved and uploaded to OctoPrint (I'd like to edit the file on OctoPrint - but am not sure how/what I'm doing).

So, in short I can't slice via OctoPrint because the Cura profile sets a bed temperature and I don't have a heated bed so the job essentially hangs.

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#frankenbot self printing level 1 achievement unlocked.

Using my now live printer, I printed an improved stepper mount for said printer.

Printer, heal thyself!
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