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+Jim Richard Depending on the model you may have a seat switch that went bad or a wire shorted etc. and blew the fuse. When you turn the key the positive side of the battery is sent to the coil on the starter solenoid. The other side of the coil goes to the frame which is the negative side of the battery. You should have 12 volts DC across the coil when the key is turned and the brake petal is pushed down depending on the model. 
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+Mark Pollack - Thank you for the feedback Mark. Yes, we did not mention the metering (refrigerant restriction) device at the evaporator entrance such as a thermal expansion valve in an effort to simplify the process. You are absolutely correct that a metering device is an important part of the central air conditioning system.
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+Hoang Tran The copper line should have the same fittings as the replacement braided line. You will have to turn off the water and power to the dishwasher. Then unhook the old line from the dishwasher water valve and the shutoff valve under the sink. Pull the old line out and replace it with the new line. Hopefully the hole in the cabinet is big enough for the new braided line or you might have to make it bigger. If you can’t access the line to pull it out you may have to pull out the dishwasher a little.
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thank you for your respond...i did not get a notice that you replied back. my problem is that i am able to remove the copper pipe under the sink...but then i am unable to remove the other end where it goes to the dishwasher inlet valve part...it is so hard to turn (the part i am talking about is at 40 seconds in this video...in this video at 40 seconds...he turn it so easily...while i can't do it...that is the part i can't turn...and it's copper pipe i have) and i can't move the dishwasher out that far cuz the copper pipe has no room to move any further...so i am curious...do i have to cut the copper pipe under the sink first? thank you so much for your respond!
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Tilling vs. Cultivating

Here at RepairClinic.com, we are currently working on a new set of Mantis® tiller part replacement videos. While going through the different parts, it was pointed out to me that the tines or blades on this particular tiller can be reversed and achieve a different action. When the tines are facing the downward direction, this is considered tilling. When the tines are facing in an upwards direction, this is called cultivating.

So what’s the difference? What is tilling and what is cultivating?

Tilling:

Tilling is essentially the act of preparing your soil for gardening. When the tines are in the tilling position, they will turn and break up the soil up to slightly under a foot’s depth. They will also mix in any added soil components such as compost.

Tilling should obviously be done at the beginning of gardening season, as soon as the ground is soft enough to till. It should also be done at the end of gardening season, in order to prepare the soil for next year. This should involve mixing in a fertilizer and more compost and covering the soil with mulch to prevent runoff from rain. Doing these extra steps will go a long way toward having a great garden next year.

Cultivating:

Cultivating, unlike tilling, only breaks the surface crust of the soil. This works to aerate the soil, making it easier for air, water and nutrients to get to the roots of the plants. This means less frequent water is necessary because the plants have better access to what they need. Cultivating also works to remove weeds from your garden and interrupts weed seed germination. This eliminates any competition for water and nutrients your plants may have had and it makes your garden look better!

Many of the smaller tillers on the market today can easily switch from a tilling position to a cultivating position. Both tilling and cultivating are vital to your garden’s growth, so it is a good idea to take time to understand how your tiller works.
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Gee. I never knew this. Thanks for the information. Roto tilling is kind of like riding a bucking horse, if the machine is big enough.

Paul | coolzoneappliancerepairs.com.au
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Have fun and stay safe this weekend!
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+Tim Doyle The element may be shorted to the case making part of the element hot all the time. To check this you will have to remove the wires to the element and check continuity at the element terminals to see if the element is good then from one terminal to the case and then the other to the case to see if the element is shorted. If the element is shorted to the case it will show continuity from one or both element terminals to the case.
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Thank you!  Heating Element - I have open circuit from each element terminal to the case.  I'm reading 10ohms terminal to terminal. Power terminal block - I have 120V on each leg to common and 240V leg-to-leg.  Could it be the timer not initiating the element properly?  The dial doesn't progress pass regular drying cycles into Cool Down, it just stops.
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This unit uses a clutch to shift between wash and spin it is actually called a splotch assembly. It sounds like the gears in the splutch are slipping you can watch the splutch video and take it off and look at it and replace it if necessary. Use your model number in our search engine to find the right part number for the splutch assembly - http://www.repairclinic.com
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+Gogle plus sucks Here is a link to our repair help: http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Refrigerator/58---/Refrigerator-freezer-is-cold-but-refrigerator-is-warm?TLSID=1773

If you enter your model number there you'll have access to model, part and symptom specific repair help. If we have any videos available for your particular model they will display on the various part pages associated with the symptoms.
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How to monitor energy consumption in your home

This blog post marks the beginning of a series of energy savings blog posts we’re going to create over the next few months. We’re going to cover a wide range of topics, including: energy-saving lightbulbs, proper disposal of electronics and appliances, smart thermostats, sustainable landscaping, water bill reduction and many other interesting subjects.

We thought the obvious place to start when it comes to energy conservation would be to look around the house and figure out where we’re using the most energy. Later on, we’ll get into how to reduce the energy consumption we find. For the purpose of this blog post, I used an energy usage meter, which we stock at RepairClinic.com! This meter is great for figuring out where you’re using the most energy and eliminating any phantom loads (electric power used by appliances and electronic devices while in standby mode).

This meter plugs right into a wall outlet and measures the wattage being used by anything plugged into it. I used this meter to measure the wattage being used by everything plugged in at my house.

Energy Usage Meter: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Energy-Usage-Meter/P4400/1012487?TLSID=1733

My findings were rather interesting and I did discover a device that sucks a substantial amount of energy when it isn’t doing anything. Our satellite dish receiver box uses 46 watts while in standby mode. This makes sense because my wife and I have our dish DVR set up to record various programs, so obviously the dish box needs some energy flowing to it at all times. Now, to figure out the damage of this phantom load, a little math:

46 (watts used) / 1000 (to convert to kilowatts) = .046 kilowatts

.047 kilowatts x 24 hours (the amount of time the box is on per day) x 365 (the amount of days in a year) = 411.72 kWh (kilowatt-hour) of energy per year.

In Michigan, energy is currently priced around $.13 per kWh of energy used. So to finish off our math problem:

411.72 kWh x .13 dollars/kWh = $53.52

So, if my wife and I keep our dish box plugged in all year, it will cost us $53.52. That does not include the price of actually turning on the dish and watching TV! Don’t let our little math problem get you down though, because that was the only phantom load in the house. Leaving various electronic chargers plugged into the wall does not use energy. Night lights and fans that are turned off, contrary to popular belief, do not use electricity. Nothing else in my house gave off a substantial phantom load (electrical devices with displays on them will use small amounts of electricity all the time, but it is not substantial).

Once I discovered that phantom loads are not much of a problem, I realized that the majority of our energy consumption comes from the larger appliances and heating and cooling equipment, with all of them using hundreds of watts while running. In later blog posts, we will talk about many of these and how to conserve energy while using them.

Have you discovered any energy hogs in your home? Please share in the comments below.

Stay tuned for weekly energy-saving tips and tricks all throughout the summer!
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Happy Memorial Day!
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Not sure what is "happy" about Memorial Day.  The words next to the flag are warming but I could have done without the "happy" part above them.  How about, "Our warmest thoughts to all the family's this Memorial Day!" instead of "Happy Memorial Day!"
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+Wm Arsenault are you referring to the door liner? We hope you didn't get hurt to bad!
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RepairClinic.com® makes fixing things easy for millions of people. Since its founding in 1999, it’s been North America’s popular, trusted online store with replacement parts for major household appliances and outdoor power equipment. Free repair resources including diagrams, guides, custom diagnoses and more than 1,000 how-to videos empower people to fix their appliances on their own. One million parts for 150 brands are stocked at its 86,000-square-foot facility with 140 employees in Canton, Michigan. Do-it-yourselfers also appreciate its generous, no-hassle return policy. Any part can be returned for a full refund within 365 days.