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Aleksandar Sosic
Jack of all trades, master of none
Jack of all trades, master of none
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Finally we decided for an alpine multi-pitch climb in the Alps. We talked about going to the Corsi hut and climb the sport routes there a few times but lately we decided for a much better option: try to climb the Ago and Campanile di Villaco near the Corsi hut.

So Thursday we packed our gear and drove 3 hours to the Sella Nevea valley and hiked 350m to the hut. At the hut we organized our gear (left some at the hut) and asked for more detailed informations about the routes we planned to do to Cristiano, the hut manager.

For the peculiar Ago di Villaco peak (2050m) we've chosen Via Klug-Stagl (Spigolo Sud), it’s an AD+ difficulty route with 5 pitches of a total length of 140 meters. We easily found the starting point after a short hike under the Ago. Alen started first and I was thankful about that because the first pitch was the hardest. Also it was my first time climbing in the alps and the rusted pitons every 5 meters were no good motivaton for me :P But once I got on the wall I was thinking only about the climbing moves and all the doubts and fears went away. After the second pitch we could not find the path which continued on the other side of the ridge but with a little bit of exploration around we managed to find the next bolted anchors.

After a few more pitches and some interesting details we've got to the top. A flat 2x2m wide peak with the last anchor bolts and chain for abseiling in the middle.
It was late so instead of the ‘classical’ abseil and long trail to the hut we decided for a much faster option: two 60m abseils. I must admit, that was the worst part of the day, but after a few minutes it was almost fun! :P

We've got back to the hut in a few minutes, ate dinner, had a talk with Cristiano and some interesting climbing guys from Trieste. Finally we went to sleep in a nice cold room at 10 degrees :) My new cumulus dawn sleeping bag came in handy and I slept like a baby till morning.

Friday morning we woke up at 7 but didn’t move until the sun was shining on the south-eastern wall where the 15 pitch route Via Weiss to the Campanile di Villaco (2247m) is located.
It is also an AD+ difficulty route but double the length of the day before: 300m. We've chosen to do the first two pitches of the Via del Tac route which are a little bit harder but faster and more interesting.

Everything was great till the 5th pitch where we could not manage to find the right direction of the route. We searched around but there were no more pitons, not even the rusted ones :/ So Alen started climbing the ‘supposed’ route and was almost 10m high with no features in the rock to place any gear and no pitons around to clip into. I was a little bit anxious about the situation but after a short turn right he found the route and a piton to clip into. He made an anchor point on two old rusted pitons which we thought was the 6th anchor and while climbing up to him I found out where the route was, almost inside a crack with some pitons hidden. It was also easier than the climb Alen did without protection (good to know for the next time).

Now it was my turn and the crack finished just a few meters above our anchor point and I thought the route proceeds on the left not knowing that the correct path was on the right (not so obvious). After another 5 meters climb I was 10 meters above Alen with no features in the rock to place protection and obviously no bolts/pitons around, not even near, not a single rock formation to put around some webbing, NOTHING. I continued to climb another 5 meters and the rock was really shit, it was falling apart and I started to be a little bit nervous. Still no protection around and I could not downclimb beacause I was shure I would fall. So I continued climbing and I was 20 or more meters from Alen when I finaly managed to put a webbing around a rock that was everything but not solid, on a scale from 1 to 10 that protection was absolutely 0 but it gave me a false sense of security to continue climbing. I managed to turn a few meters  to the right and finaly found a pithon and clipped myself into it. The rope drag after 30 meters of zigzagging started to be too much for me but I could not make an anchoring there for both of us so I pulled more rope up and starded climbing on much better rock beside the tremendous rope drag. I found another piton which was also a no go for making an anchor point and almost 60 meters above Alen I finally found te drilled bolts of the anchor point.

This was the worst part. The rock was much more solid and the route was easier to find from the 7th pitch on.

We managed to get on top of the Campanile and enjoyed the view from there. It was windy and started to be cloudy so after a short break and summit photos we begin our descent via the normal route on the Campanile. We did only one 20m abseil and then followed the track to the main route to the hut. In an hour we were chilling out in front of the hut and looking toward the south-eastern wall that we climbed.

All in all it was a great experience and I just can’t wait to try another multi-pitch route in the Alps. ;)





#climbing   #alps   #alpine   #hiking   #alpinism   #julianalps   #joffuart   #sellanevea   #italy   #mountains  +ZajoOutdoor  #zajo   #garmont   #lowealpine   #tradclimbing   #nature   #outdoors   #alpigiulie   #mountainphotos   #landscapephotography   #landscapephoto   #landscape  
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20150910-11-Ago & Campanile di Villaco
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Can't wait to go there again...


#alps #bivouac   #alpinism   #snow   #alpine   #hiking   #sunrise   #nature   #italy   #climbing  

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LMAO :D
That's MY Mouse!

The Cat and the Mouse had a Forbidden Love. How this came to be cannot be explained. There is no reason or logic to it, but one day Cat found himself nose to nose with Mouse and rather than hunger, he felt love. Mouse thought herself quite a practical girl, until she looked into Cat's eyes and knew she could love no other.

Understandably, this love was the source of much shame and derision in the Land of Cat. The other cats hounded him, mocked him, challenged him and many times Cat was only barely able to save his tiny bride from those who had once been his family.

"We must leave here, darling, for all my folk slaver to devour you and give me no rest by night or day."

So she crawled onto his back, snuggling deep into the ruff of his neck and they traveled to the Land of Mice.

The way was long and hard. When they arrived, Cat was famished. Unable to help himself, he fell upon the population until he was sated. The madness left him only after his belly was full.

"Those were my kin," Mouse wailed.

"Forgive me, dearest, but I am a Cat."

"Ah, well," she sighed, "we are a prolific breed and there will always be more of us."

They debated where they might go next. Where could they find a home where they might keep their Forbidden Love without danger or sorrow?

They set out again and eventually came to the Land of Men. They rested at a farm where Mouse noted that others of her kind raided the farmer's grain bin with impunity, for it seemed this farmer was lacking a cat.

It was she that hatched the clever plan. Cat was reluctant, fearing he might forget himself and do harm to his beloved, but Mouse showed such unwavering trust, that he agreed.

The next morning, as the Farmer and his Wife came outside for their chores, they were amazed to see Mouse scampering right across their toes. Quick on Mouse's heels came Cat, darting and turning until he pounced on Mouse and carried her off in his mouth.

As soon as they were alone, he set her down, inquiring anxiously. Mouse set about to groom herself.

"No harm done, my dear, except for needing a bath. Go see how you are received now."

The Farmer and his Wife praised Cat, gave him a bowl of milk and scratched him behind the ears.

From time to time, Cat made sure, after he caught the wild mice that inhabited the barn, to leave tidbits on the doorstep where the people would be sure to find them and heap more praise upon him. And if they witnessed Cat catching Mouse numerous times, they could not tell for all mice looked the same to them.

In this way, everyone (except the other mice) were content. Cat and Mouse played their games. Cat was revered, while Mouse grew fat on grain, and the people bragged their Cat was the greatest mouser in the land.

So they lived peacefully, if oddly, ever after.

#gif #caturday #catoftheday   #catlovers   #animallovers   #funnygifs   #caturdayeveryday  #Adorable, #Amazing, #Animals, #Awesome, #Awww, #CatLovers, #Cats, #Cute, #Funny, #Gif, #Gifs, #Hilarious, #Humor, #Kitten, #Kitty, #LOL
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Paklenica National Park, Croatia
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Amazing performance... I'm speechless...

#paramore   #music     #acoustic       #song   #live   +Hayley Williams 

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2015Paklenica
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So saturday Sandro and me went on a morning #hike here in #Istria  on the eastern slopes of #Mount #Učka  
Sandro suggested a new trail he heard about. This time I did not do any research about our #hiking destination, just downloaded the gps trail so we would have a backup in case we got "lost".

We parked the car at Mošćenička Draga and went hiking through the valley towards Trebišća where the #history and #mythology #trail starts.

The Trebišća-Perun history and mythology trail is an attempt to explain more about who the Slavs actually are, what we know today about their origins, why they came here, and the beliefs on which life in their community was based. The trail tells the exciting story of how the pieces of this ancient history, whose traces have survived a thousand eventful years, have been pieced together into the jigsaw that makes up our present knowledge about the sacred nature of this area.

The trail leads you through pristine #nature and preserved hamlets in the #canyon of Potoška vala up to the peak of Perun (881m).

I didn't expect to witness such nature that is different from the one I'm used to in Istria. With the morning mist and ancient stories told during the trail the mood of the track was something special.

Once on #Perun we decided to descend to Mošćenice and along the coast back to the car.

GPS log: https://connect.garmin.com/activity/756582991

17,53 km, 5:30h, 932m elevation gain
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20150425MoscenickaDragaTrebiscaPerunMoscenice
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#Aikido   demonstration at #Karate #Eurocup 2014 in #Porec   #Croatia
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