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Petr Myska
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Back in Careyes

#tutorial #photography #night #Petr   #Myska #myskaphoto
www.myskaphoto.com

I am back in Careyes on the Pacific Coast of Mexico shooting 2 great ocean view homes here. As usual, running around from (before) sunrise to (well after) sunset.

But Careyes is so beautiful and nights cool and calm. I just had to stay up, although quite tired and since the new camera chips with prodigious ISO allow taking photos of a night sky, I did just that.

How to take a night beach shot
This is midnight, very dark. You will need a tripod of course.
Find out what the strongest light source in your scene is. These will rule your shot. In my case it was a par of lights aiming at the palm trees (camera far right). Not too bright, which was good, otherwise they would have blown my stars. There was a good amount of moon light as well. Fortunately, the Moon was behind me, otherwise it would have ruined the shot.
If you want your stars to come out as points, rather than dashes, you will need to set shutter to 30 sec or less. Remember, sky moves.
Frame your shot and set camera firmly on tripod. When on the beach, remember to check where the line of the highest wave action is at the moment. You do not want to get your tripod swept away, or moved during the shot.
Your autofocus will not work in the dark, it is up to you. Manually focus your lens as best you can. This can be very tricky. look for brighter areas in your frame and use those as a reference. Don’t worry if your first photo comes out of focus, you can always correct for the next shot.
Correct camera settings will depend on each situation, but start by setting your ISO quite high – say 2000. Set your shutter to 30 sec and your aperture around f5.
To prevent shake while pressing the shutter, either use a remote control or set your camera to timer (2 seconds should be enough). Take the photo.
Check the result. If your focus is off, correct.
If you are too dark even at 30 seconds, I would first increase your ISO. If you reach your ISO upper limit or if the digital noise becomes too obnoxious, you will need to start opening the lens more = set your aperture to smaller number (f4, f3.5 …ect). Be aware of losing depth or field. In wide angle lenses this will be less of an issue.
If after your first shot, you are too bright, start to shorten your shutter speed – say to 20 seconds instead of 30. Alternatively you can go up with your aperture.
Lighting conditions are very likely not going to change for hours now, so take your time and experiment. Remember higher ISO will mean more digital noise, longer than 30 seconds shutter will lose definition in the stars. So stay within these limits.
Have fun… always have fun.
My settings for this particular shot
Nikon D600, Nikon 20 mm, f2.8
20s, f5, ISO 2000
tripod, remote shutter
Although this is quite a three dimensional scene, I preferred to stay at lower aperture and lower ISO. My camera performs quite well up to ISO 6400, but over 2000 the digital noise becomes more apparent. As for light sources, there are the stars, the Moon – behind the camera left and artificial beach flood lights with warm hue (note yellow palm tree trunks) on camera far right.

I prefer to stay behind the camera, but it is hard to find willing subjects at midnight sometimes, so for scale I included myself leaning against the trunk.

Version Español
Estoy de vuelta en Careyes en las playas de Pacífico Mexicano tomando fotos de dos magníficas villas con vista al mar. Como siempre – corriendo desde el amanecer hasta la puesta del sol.

Pero Careyes es bellísimo y las noches tan tranquilas y frescas que tenia que quedarme despierto y a pesar de mi cansancio y para aprovechar de las capacidades del alto ISO de mi cámara, me propuse tomar una foto nocturna.

Como tomar una foto nocturna en la playa
Es media noche, muy oscuro. Necesitaras un trípie.
Localiza la fuente de luz mas fuerte en tu escena. Esta dominará tu escena. En mi caso fueron dos luces apuntadas hacia las palmeras de mi derecha. Afortunadamente no demasiado intensas, si no – hubieran quemado mis estrellas. También había una buena cantidad de luz de la Luna. De nuevo tuve suerte – la Luna se encontraba atrás de mi, si no también hubiera arruinado mi toma.
Si quieres que tus estrellas salgan como puntos y no como lineas, necesitaras emplear tiempo de obturación de 30 segundos o menos. Acuérdate, el cielo si se mueve.
Enmarca tu toma y pon tu cámara firmemente en el trípie. Verifica hasta donde llega el agua durante las olas mas fuertes en estos momentos. No quieres perder tu equipo y que tu trípie se mueva durante la toma.
Autofocus no funcionara en condiciones de poca luz. Depende de ti – deberas enfocar manualmente lo mejor que puedas. Busca partes de la escena mas iluminadas y úsalas como referencia para el enfoque. Esta parte puede ser un poco difícil. No te preocupes, si la primera imagen saldrá fuera de foco, puedes corregir en la siguiente.
Ajustes precisos dependerán de cada situación, pero empieza poniendo tu ISO alto – digamos al 2000. Tu obturador a 30 segundos y diafragma a unos f5.
Para prevenir que se borre la imagen al momento de presionar el obturador, usa un control remoto o timer (2 segundos deberían ser suficientes). Toma la foto.
Revisa la image. Si te fallo el enfoque, corrige.
Si a 30 seg sigue oscura la imagen, puedes subir el ISO. Si alcanzas el limite de ISO o si el ruido digital se torna demasiado obvio, tendrás que empezar a abrir tu lente (diafragma f4 o 3.5 …ect). Empezaras a perder profundidad de campo. El efecto sera menos obvio en grandes angulares.
Si tu primer toma sale demasiado clara, puedes acortar tu tiempo de obturación – digamos a 20 segundos. También puedes emplear un diafragma mas cerrado.
Condiciones de luz no cambiarán dramáticamente por horas así que tomate el tiempo y experimenta. Acuérdate, ISO alto significara mas ruido digital, obturación mas larga que 30 seg borrara las estrellas. Mantente dentro de estos limites.
Diviértete … siempre
Ajustes de esta toma
Nikon D600, Nikon 20 mm, f2.8
20s, f5, ISO 2000
tripie, control remoto
Preferí quedarme con un diafragma más bien abierto para no tener que subir demasiado mi ISO. Mi cámara se defiende bien en ISOs altos, pero arriba de 2000 se torna el ruido digital mas obvio. Lo que a fuentes de luz refiere, había estrellas y la Luna (a mi izquierda, atrás) y dos luces cálidas que iluminaban las palmeras desde la derecha.

Siempre prefiero estar detrás de la cámara, pero como a la media noche puede ser difícil conseguir voluntarios, me incorpore a la toma para darle escala a la escena. 
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7 DAYS ONLINE for FREE
For only a few days you will be able to see the entire documentary "Touch of the Blue Crocodile" and its sequel "Night in the Sumidero Canyon" completely for FREE on Vimeo....
(Spanish audio)

Enjoy and share the links
Petr Myska & Petr Tomaides, the creators


TOQUE DEL COCODRILO AZUL
https://vimeo.com/114381533
LA NOCHE EN EL CAÑÓN DEL SUMIDERO
https://vimeo.com/112579910

Post has attachment
7 DAYS ONLINE for FREE
For only a few days you will be able to see the entire documentary "Touch of the Blue Crocodile" and its sequel "Night in the Sumidero Canyon" completely for FREE on Vimeo....
(Spanish audio)

Enjoy and share the links
Petr Myska & Petr Tomaides, the creators

TOQUE DEL COCODRILO AZUL
https://vimeo.com/114381533
LA NOCHE EN EL CAÑÓN DEL SUMIDERO
https://vimeo.com/112579910

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Twilight jungle waterfall
[Rio Horcones, Banderas Bay, Mexico]
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King of the hill
[Tomatlan, Jalisco]

... you are as big as you feel ...

(Sceloporus horridus)
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Lilac-crowned parrot (Amazona finschi)
proudly unique to West Mexico
[El Tuito, Jalisco]
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The local prehistoric-looking master glider
Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis)
[Marina Vallarta, Mexico]
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Marina Nuevo Vallarta, fun to see from above.
One of my assignments in 2014, Casa de Troncos by Sordo Madaleno architects, Mexico.
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Marina Nuevo Vallarta, fun to see from above.
One of my assignments in 2014, Casa de Troncos by Sordo Madaleno architects, Mexico.
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