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Normen Hansen
Lives in Bremen
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Normen Hansen

Build Logs/Issues  - 
 
So I built my RigidBot Kit (https://plus.google.com/104675993407290317369/posts/hhLwMXKYwxw), everything was fine, no holes that were off, no missing parts, no broken main board or anything.

I did have the "rattling PSU" but I just opened it and removed the loose screw. Instead of buying a german clover-connector I simply cut off the US mains connector and attached a german connector, the PSU cools itself when it gets warm and seems to supply the printer just fine. The only thing that worries me a bit is a crackling sound when I detach it from the mains, about three seconds after I detach it, sounds like high voltage jumping over somewhere but I didn't see a light bow anywhere when the sound happens. Any1 know what that might be? Or is it normal? Yes, I know its not a super PSU and I should get a new one yadda yadda..

No additional hardware tweaking (pots) seemed to be necessary to get all axes working smoothly. I cleaned the upgraded Z-rods and applied new oil to them, there was quite a bit of soot on them. Tried all axes at high speeds going back and forth a few times, no steps seemed to be lost.

Then I proceeded to update the firmware but to calibrate the extruder I first had to realize that the extruder motor by default won't move without a hot hotend.. Removed the corresponding lines from marlin (PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE, PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE) and did the "extrude 10 cm without hotend, then measure the actual extrusion amount" test, it extruded 112mm instead, tweaked the value (original * (100/actual)), extrudes exactly 10cm now.

Then I did the PID tuning (190deg, 10 rounds) and wondered about the last default value which was way off from what I measured, default = 260, measured = 76.6.. The others were in the same ballpark of what I measured. So now it also keeps the temperature just fine.

I plan on printing with PLA mainly and with my RepRapPro Ormerod (https://plus.google.com/104675993407290317369/posts/XYodW1t6ZZm) I found temperatures of 185C to work best for that, still I kept the hotend on 220C for a while to see if I get any melting around the hotend or if the PTFE tube would narrow. I could still push the filament though without issues after leaving it on for two hours, so I hope I won't have to drill it open later.. I still like the hotend of the Ormerod better though, less plastic close to the hot parts.

So now the only thing I'm waiting for before I do my first print is monday so I can get a piece of glass, I don't even want to bother trying to print on the aluminium plate. Its only ever so slightly warped but from my experiences with my Ormerod I don't want to miss a detachable glass plate anymore, its much more convenient and obviously straight. I'll also use Kapton tape for the glass plate, it works great on my Ormerod and they supplied a whole roll of it, just don't know where I can buy new rolls in Germany yet.. Any tips on that would also be appreciated.

Thanks to all people who contributed to the wiki and posted their experiences here, it helped me a great deal and I was well prepared just by following the community! Also thanks to the Make'n'Mod youtube guy (don't even know his name, its not on his page), his videos helped me a lot, too.

Cheers,
Normen
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Wylie Hilliard's profile photoCarlton Dodd's profile photo
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+Wylie Hilliard That's the one! I couldn't remember, and I tend to just look up commands every time I need them. 
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Normen Hansen

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I imagine that most of you reading this are already aware of how much the cable monopolies are threatening #netneutrality , but for anyone who isn't, this clip from John Oliver lays out perfectly what's at stake, and why we're even talking about this right now.
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Normen Hansen

Electronics Specs  - 
 
Hey, I was thinking about how one could make some "safety stop" when the print goes haywire while you're not watching it.

The most common thing that happens seems to be the model breaking loose from the bottom and then it flies off the plate and the printer makes spaghetti..

I thought about using a laserpointer and a wii camera for this.. The camera built into the wii can track up to four light points (normally IR leds) and can be used easily with an Arduino board (google arduino wii).

The idea would be using a laser pointer to put a light point on the very bottom of the print. As soon as the point can be recognized by the cam (the models first few layers have been printed) it checks if that light point moves in the x/z plane and if it does (it broke loose) it stops the print.

http://i.imgur.com/9qcUHAv.png

Its not 100% thought though yet but maybe somebody wants to chip in with some brain matter on this :)
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Normen Hansen's profile photoLorenz Aschaber's profile photoWesley Shillingford's profile photoNick Bernstein's profile photo
12 comments
 
you could do it that way, also the motion program on linux can detect changes in webcam images. If you just limited it to the base of the printed image, that might work too.
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Pretty cool update to the SDK :)
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Paul Geraskin's profile photoNormen Hansen's profile photoJohan Maasing's profile photo
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You are confused ^^
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xD
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Normen Hansen

International Shipping  - 
 
My RigidBot arrived today, German backer, FedEx option. Had to pay 139€ tax directly to the FedEx guy, FedEx asked me for a payment proof before, mailed them the InventAPart invoice with the "paid" notice but they still wanted the original Amazon bill. Idk what amount they used to calculate the tax because the 5pack of filament I ordered came in a separate parcel which I already paid tax for. I told FedEx that the Amazon bill contains that money as well and that the (lower) IAP invoice contained the "paid" notice. The parcel looks okay, didn't open it yet.
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It should be VAT+duty tax (around 5%) but it's calculated on goods+shipping costs.
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Normen Hansen

Show-An-Tell  - 
 
My first prints.. On a RepRapPro Ormerod :P

Its a pretty awesome machine, I only had to calibrate the IR sensor and feed rate manually, everything else, including bed leveling, happens automatically. If you don't expose it to direct sunlight the IR distance meter is pretty accurate and it can measure the bed distance by itself at four points and compensate. It even has a web interface to control and monitor the printer as well as upload gcode files. I can only recommend this printer to anyone who cannot wait for his RigidBot anymore (like me) or doesn't want to repair it anymore ;)

Took me about two days (not working all day) to build it from a 499€ kit available from "pollin.de" here in Germany. They even added a roll of Kapton tape, which works wonders as a print surface, never had any issues with the first layer not sticking.

Still looking forward to my RigidBot though, the Ormerod only has a 20x20x20 cm build volume and I hope I can get a bit more speed out of the RigidBot due to its rigid frame. Also I got into 3D printing BIG TIME, its just too awesome to be able to make a 3D model and then PRINT it! ;)
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Mark  Schmitt's profile photoGary Craig's profile photoRepRapPro's profile photoSalvio Giglio's profile photo
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Very nice. I decided to order a Rostock V2 after being frustrated with constantly mucking with my big. I have most of its problems worked out, but having a warped build plate makes for constant tweaking for each new print. I will eventually get it all dialed I suppose.

The Rostock on the other hand has required no physical tweaking since I first finished building it. I love the fact I can just remove the build plate to remove my print and then return it without compromising the bed level. I just ordered a second borosilicate bed so I can just swap them between prints. 
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Normen Hansen

commented on a video on YouTube.
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Hahahaha. Some people are so full of themselves...
"I watch this free resource, I am entitled to judge and complain!"
"You just lost a very influential viewer, your sense of humor is flawed!"

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Normen Hansen

3D Printer Information  - 
 
Mind those UFPs!
According to some late research the concentration of Nanoparticles in the air rises a lot around open 3D printers. See the german article here: http://www.golem.de/news/studie-schaden-3d-drucker-der-gesundheit-1307-100597.html

A short rundown for the non-german speakers: For PLA, about 20 Billion particles per Minute get released, while for ABS its even 200 Billion ppm. PLA is not regarded as being as toxic as ABS, which should not get into the body system anyway. Nano particles can get into the lungs and via the nose even into the brain and are said to cause Lung diseases, aneuyrisms and different forms of cancer.

So I suggest you keep your printing space well vented and especially keep it away from the children if you have any :) Generally I'd not worry too much about this, just be sensible and don't inhale printer fumes ;) I always was convinced the fear is creating more diseases than the actual dangers ;)

Just thought this might be interesting for us.

Cheers, Normen


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Jacob Boersma's profile photoNormen Hansen's profile photoMarco Ziegert's profile photonom “de” Plume's profile photo
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Venting is a bit complicated for a simple hobbyist. build an enclosure around your 3d printer and when the printing process is over, just stick a vacuum machine in there bro. Even in asbestos sanitation we use vacuum machines and just schoop the stuff up.
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Normen Hansen

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Agreed.  Making a user also copy their info to make a copy is a powerful motivator for the normal user.

"Sure, you can copy this... just also copy these registry entries that include your name, e-mail address, and serial number... which by the way are all required because the serial is specific to your name+address."

"Uh, sorry dude... you will have to buy your own." :)
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