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Neil Ferreri
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For those of you with a CNC mill / router:

Anyone have any experience with Full Spectrum Laser? I am a teacher, and my students and I have been raising money for a laser engraver. My research and dealings with their sales guys gives me an uneasy feeling. I need to be more cautious as it's not my money being spent, and I'm not looking for machine that I have to "rigidbot" to get it to work correctly. Specifically, we're looking at the P-Series 20x12 Laser. I really don't want to purchase something from a company that will abandon us once money has changed hands.
Any insights would be helpful...thanks!

Curious if anyone repurposes their failed / extra / unneeded prints. If I have a couple kilos of "junk" printed PLA because of prototyping, calibration, user error or just because I have a couple of Rigidbots, what can I do with that plastic? And I have too much to just wedge under bookshelves and workbenches to level them.
How about PETG also?

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Curious what sort of print times everyone is getting. Not expecting anyone to print my random file, but this took 29min on my RB2 (RB1 is down for a while, but it was comparable). Estimated 21min.

I printed that file on a Replicator 2 and it took 15min.

I've used slic3r, Cura, and Craftware (my current favorite) recently, all with similar results.

This thing took almost 21hrs. Slicers estimated 16ish.

If anyone would like to comment on their slicer and the time to print that small file (based on slicer estimation), I'd love to hear the variation.

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+Jeff Parish+Heath Harper​ Replaced Y axis idler on my RB2 with a flanged bearing (F608zz), and eliminated belt rubbing, axis binding and slipping, and one source of squeaking. I had to grind away a bit of the belt guides, so the bearing would fit. Super easy fix, and my build plate moves freely.
2 Photos - View album

Working with my RB2 and hoping for suggestions. I am getting more Y axis shifting, and I'm pretty sure it's because the belt is sliding up the bearing and rubbing on the frame. +Jeff Parish , I know you've assembled several RB2s...any thoughts?

+Jeff Parish Thanks for the thorough reply!  I'm having an issue with the newer firmware, though.  The prints are very "laggy".  The printer seems to pause between every change in direction which makes for a mess in round shapes.  I was testing some gcode with cylindrical models (shipped firmware), and as I was fine tuning the settings I had a few cases of a shift along the Y axis.  I decided to upgrade firmware, but now I am getting a jerky mess. It's acting as though my PC is bogged down (it's not).
Not an issue with the model, STL, or slicer as it ran ok before I changed firmware.  I also tried changing all settings you mentioned (acceleration, jerk, and Y Driver value) back to original change.
I have a RB2 from a kit with no LCD.  Hardware isn't the issue.
I'm using Repetier Host.
Again, it all was working (aside form a few skips) before I changed firmware.
Tried the one on the Wiki, then just tried with the one you just shared with me.  

Any thoughts?

UPDATE:  The firmware that was shipped was neither of those two.  The only reason I know is that the Y driver value was originally at 50%.  It's not the motors skipping steps, it's choppy coming soon.


Hoping someone can help me with this...
Recently started printing with Hatchbox PETG, and, for the most part, it's excellent.  I am having some difficulties, especially on longer prints.  At first it looked like X shifting issues, then it looked like Y shifting issues, than it looked like all kinds of shifting issues.  I found that the PETG is collecting on the nozzle, burning, and depositing super strong boogers on my print.  When the print head tries to get past that spot, it can't.  The steppers skip, and you know the rest.
Anyway, I'm using an e3D v6 hot end with the stock extruder setup.  Slicing with Craftware (which I really like minus some quirks). Printing at 225 (seems really low, but quality is excellent) & 50.
When I babysit the prints and wipe the accumulated filament from the extruder I have no issues (with printing).

Could upping my retraction help?  I think I am at 1.0mm.

I really want to make PETG my main filament based on the prints that come out.

Thanks for the insight.

I am having an issue I hope someone can help with.
I have OctoPrint running at home (Pi B, wiFii) with no problems.  I am trying to run it in a school (Raspberry Pi 2, ethernet) and I get the following message more often than not:
"You've been disconnected from the server. This page will now be refreshed to prevent any problems."
The only option is to click OK, and the page refreshes and we start all over.  This happens on multiple computers, phones, tablets, but it has also worked on all at some point.
It seems as though the connection is hanging when the error message pops up, as soon as I click OK, I see that it logs me in shows connection info & my uploaded files...then refresh to start the cycle over.

Any thoughts?


Thought I'd share an issue I had and the problem that caused it.
My stock RB regular had been printing nearly perfectly for quite some time, and all of a sudden I was getting major x-axis issues. Essentially, the machine really struggled to move towards the home position. I thought the worst (assumed stepper drivers or main board)and went through some usual tests only to find that one of my linear bearings was the problem. It almost felt like a spring... Would build up tension moving left but moved to the right easily.
Luckily I have some on hand (who knows why), so the fix should go fairly simply.
A couple of questions for the group:
1. Thoughts why a beating might fail? Looks fine, no debris, no missing ball bearings.
2. Any tips on how to remove the caps for the linear rods? That was no easy feat.

Hope this helps someone else. Thanks for any input.
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