Profile cover photo
Profile photo
El Twin
Hi to all!!!
Hi to all!!!
About
El's posts

I've been absent a while, was out on vacation and I've had a very busy return. Anyways engine belt and idler pulley went out last week. I've ordered the deflection/idler pulley, I also purchased the mechanical to hydraulic tensioner pulley kit only differences price wise was like $30 more for the hydraulic including shipping cost. So I went with hydraulic option. I'm also changing the a/c tensioner pulley, that one stays mechanical. $152.00 all parts including shipping. All pulleys were spinning freely and a little wobbly, meaning they needed to be replaced.
Pervious owner seems to have broken the bolt on the tensioner pulley to loose the engine belt but I won't have that issue anymore with the hydraulic pulley kit.
eBay clutch/fan release tools are crap they always bent, good thing my uncle has a 32mm wrench to loosen the fan, makes the job a lot easier.

Post has shared content
I will try this tonight to check my USB type C to Type A using my Surface Pro 3. I got a cable that the CheckR app said was no good 😫.
USB C to A cable testing refined - Nexus 5X only
Edit: Now 6P as well
Edit: added descriptions of output values

Short version
5X
adb shell "cat /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/fusb301/*/fclientcur"
Or  from a shell on the phone
cat /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/fusb301/*/fclientcur

If the result is 3000 an A to C cable is non-compliant

Possible values
0 - standard USB charging
1500 - 1.5 amp type C charging
3000 - 3 amp type C charging

It will also report 0 if not plugged in.

6P
adb shell "cat /sys/class/typec/typec_device/current_detect"
Or from a shell on the phone
cat /sys/class/typec/typec_device/current_detect

If the result is 2 an A to C cable is non-compliant

Possible values
0 - standard USB charging
1 - 1.5A type C
2 - 3A type C

Details
The FUSB301 chip is connected directly to the configuration channel pins in the Type-C port on the Nexus 5X and is used determine if the cable is connected, the orientation, and the power level and direction.  The fusb301 driver makes the charge current value available in the file fclientcur in the sys file system.  Because this is as close as it gets to the CC pins in the port, this is the best that can be done from the phone.

Also, because this can be done from the phone, if it is in fact reliable, an app can be built around this.

Looking at the kernel sources for the 6P, it doesn't have the fusb301 driver so it is probably using a different chip. 

The 6P uses a tusb320

This morning and yesterday a noise came from the engine bay, like two pieces of metal rubbing each other. I knew the headers have a gasket/lip above that were touching but never got too loud. Gotta check whenever I have time. I'm currently doing training related to work and I leave early in the mornings, which is when this issue started to happen. I'm still planning on fixing the hood clear coat peeling, just gotta find the right time.

So after 2 weeks of no engine light, it's back on after I floored the gas pedal. Code is a P0741. I really don't wanna fix no more codes and this has to do with the torque converter. Sad day 😢....

When listening to music at higher volume the rear cover of the bass speakers makes a rattling noise. I tried to put some shipping foam to create space between the speakers and the cover but made it worst. Now I can't get out one if the foam pieces. I think I'll have to drop the bass speakers to take it out and check out what needs to be done to stop the rattling at higher volume.

After replacing the radiator two weeks ago I had to wait for some of the parts to arrive. That meant my car was sitting still for almost 2 weeks the temperature dropped below 40F°. I had to jump start my car, that was two weeks ago and today I have to jump start it again. I have to get a new battery and there is a replacement battery that's not the same size but fits okay with a little modification. There was a big difference in price, I did it when I used to have a 323i and the battery died. I'll post the part number later.

Post has attachment
Finally finished installing the LED tail lights. Only two things were a little difficult. 1.Removing the black trim from the old tail lights and 2.calculating were to put the resistor boxes.
PhotoPhotoPhotoPhotoPhoto
1/17/16
7 Photos - View album

Post has attachment
Took off the muffler because I thought it was too quite 😔😔😔 now I wish I would done the T golf mod first. Too much drone below 2500rpm with passengers. I may put the muffler back on or get a Magnaflow and take off the resonators.
Photo
Photo
1/15/16
2 Photos - View album

Post has attachment
All these codes were related to a bad MAF sensor that I had to replace (due to a stupid K&N filter, watch out for these oil filters and get an AEM dry filter instead) and only the last code was related to low coolant (radiator was cracked) thus leaked once engine was hot. Got it all fixed and replaced the radiator, transmission thermostat, rubber o-rings, expansion tank, fan clutch. (I had already had replaced last year including upper and lower radiator hoses, engine thermostat, temperature sensor o-ring and a/c belt)
Photo

I'll be installing some new Eagle Eye LED tail lights this weekend. Will take pics once it's done. Reason why I got them was because aa year ago the tail lights I had the reflector (outer lenses) were becoming off the housing. The glue that holds them became brittle I guess. I did glue them back but then the back up trunk lights lenses fell off too and they broke.
Wait while more posts are being loaded