Some of my new acquisitions, and a project:
The Gopher Technologies (aka Gophert) CPS-3205 and 6003 lab power supplies (32V5A and 60V3A). These cost me 45 and 50 euros respectively, straight from China. The cables that came with are unreliable at best: very thin wires, and one of the IEC cords did not have earth pin continuity, which argh. The supplies themselves are just fine, for hobbyist grade supplies, especially after you run the cal procedure. The digital setting & readout of both current and voltage limits is very nice, as is the fact that you don't have to short the output to set the current limit. If you're going to try using it as an LED current limited supply that's quite useful.
The Uni-T UT210E: a tiny little clamp meter, whose main feature is that it will do DC to mA precision, at a cost of only 30 euros straight from AliExpress. It matches my 22.000 count UT61E fairly well, as well as my Fluke 15B.
And some lighting. In this case, 5050 based LED strips, half warm white and half cool white. These, too, came from aliexpress, at a cost of about 3 euros per 5m length, but here I missed a trick: normally, a 5050 led package contains three separate led dies, hence the six pins. Initially developed for RGB LEDs, it is now also commonly used with three of the same type of led in a single color for extra brightness in a convenient package. Most white or warm white 5050 led strips, then, have a section of three 5050 LEDs (either 5 or 10 cm long) with a total of nine dies, usually arranged as a 3x3 matrix with three separate resistors. These strips, however, have just one resistor per section. I initially thought when I ordered that they were just running the whole 3x3 array with a single resistor, but it turns out that these 5050 LEDs have only one die in them, and therefore, these strips are 1/3 as bright as the real ones. Or, actually, they're a bit brighter than that, but they overdrive that led a bit more.
Anyway. It's still bright enough to be useful, and it's a good way to see whether I prefer warm white, cool white, or something in between. So far, it's looking like I'd prefer a mix of 100% on the warm white with about 70-80% on the cool white.
Still to come: PWM modules and a remote that is specifically geared to cold white/warm white mixing.